HARLEY-DAVIDSON 1979-Later Big Twin CONVERSION INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 29-03-2012

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Turn ignition switch to the OFF position. Disconnect the ground cable from the battery. 2) Disconnect the wire at the coil which runs down to the points. Remove the point cover plate. 3) Note the position of the slots in the point plate. When the Mallory UNILITEfi plate is installed, use the position of the slots to approximate the timing. 4) Remove the wire to the points. Remove the O.E. standoffs and washers. Remove the point plate assembly. 5) Remove the O.E. cam sleeve from the advance assembly. Place a small amount of oil on the advance shaft which supported the cam sleeve. 6) Slide the Mallory shutter wheel onto the advance shaft. Make sure the shutter wheel is all the way down into the advance assembly (it will only go one way due to the roll pin in the advance assembly). 7) Install the advance and shutter wheel into the nose cone. Make sure that the pin on the bottom of the advance engages the slot on the end of the camshaft. Apply Loctite to the threads and install the advance bolt. Torque to 25 in.lb. 8) Rotate the shutter wheel by hand (counter-clockwise) and release. It should rotate about 10 degrees and “snap” back when released. 9) Install the two Mallory standoffs. Place Loctite on the threads and torque to 16 in.lb. Do not use any washers with the standoffs. 10) Start the three wires of the Mallory UNILITEfi Module through the hole in the nose cone housing. (The module goes in towards the advance assembly with the flat plate outward). Pull on the three wires to remove any slack and prevent the wires from rubbing on the shutter wheel. 11) Rotate the UNILITEfi plate assembly until the slots in the plate are in the same position as the point plate was. This should make the timing close enough to start the engine. Slide the two Mallory 8-32 sleeve nuts (supplied) through the UNILITEfi plate and onto the male threads of the Mallory standoffs. Tighten the sleeve nuts just enough to prevent the plate from moving. 14) Route the wires from the UNILITEfi Module to the ignition coil, carefully avoiding the exhaust system. Connect the red wire to the positive (+) terminal (12 volts) on the coil. Connect the green wire to the negative (ñ) terminal on the coil (where the point wire was connected). Connect the brown wire to ground. The best place for the brown wire is the negative (ñ) post on the battery, however, any part of the frame or engine which is grounded to the battery will work

Harley Davidson KNIGHT PROWLER BELT DRIVE Installation Procedures

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 28-02-2012

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STEP 1: Place bike on suitable stand where rear wheel can be rotated in 4th or 5th gear when necessary. STEP 2: Remove front exhaust pipe. If necessary, remove as a one-piece unit. * Tip – Removing front floorboard will help a lot. STEP 3: Using easiest method – bolt cutter, etc. -remove pushrods and discard. We recommend using the S&S Quickee install pushrods and S&S roller tappets WITHOUT travel limiters. Remove tappet covers and tappets. STEP 4: Remove outer cam cover and rotate engine until timing marks are aligned together. STEP 5: Using Harley-Davidson service manual procedure, retract the outer chain tension shoe. STEP 6: Remove crankshaft and crankshaft sprocket retaining bolts using Harley-Davidson service manual procedure and tools. Continue to the next page for special instructions concerning this step with 06-DYNA & CHAIN DRIVE MODELS and also with 1999 THRU 2006 CHAIN DRIVE MODELS

Ktm 625/ 640/ 660 LC4's and some 640 Adventures Removal and Installation Manual

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 24-01-2012

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1. There are 3 pages of instructions here. Review all 3 first! These model bikes normally require modifications. 2. Warning: Once the triple clamp is loose, the forks can roll away from the bike . Follow step 2 carefully. 3. Block the front and rear tire securely before removing the top triple clamp, keeping the weight pushed on the front wheel so the front tire cannot move forward and the forks are forced upward, keeping the bearing in the head tube. 4. Remove the 4 bolts holding your bars tight and lay the bars forward out of the way. 5. Using Loc-tite, change the lower nuts on the under side of your triple clamp that hold your bar perches. Use the “low profile” version that we have supplied in the kit. You will need access to the Allen head bolts in the lower perch halves. Without these low profile nuts the triple clamp will not be free to turn lock to lock. There are occasions where you may have to grind on the frame bracket to allow a little extra clearance for even the low profile nuts (see photo). Because the bars are rubber mounted, this clearance varies from bike to bike. Turn the triple clamp lock to lock and be sure you have clearance. You must change them now, as later you won’t have room to do so. 6. Now remove the top triple clamp taking note of how tight the main nut is, so you can re-tighten to the exact amount. 7. Remove the tin bearing shroud (cover) and rubber seal. The lips of the seal face downward for correct installation. 8. The new shorter bearing shroud will replace the stock tin shroud, giving the frame bracket more room to seat. 9. Grease your bearings while you have them exposed. (Keep the grease off the area where our frame bracket mounts). 10. Only if your model is equipped with one, you will need to cut off the upper portion of the square steering lock receiver box (see photo). The steering lock stays functional as the lock-pin still engages the lower the portion of the box. Mark and cut the top of the box off. You must cut enough to allow our frame bracket to drop down far enough so the entire bracket grabs the head tube. If you don’t allow the frame bracket enough clamping surface it will come loose. The upper edge of the frame bracket should be level with the step where your stock bearing seal seats. (See photo). 11. Install the frame bracket so it matches the clamping area on your head tube, but do not tighten it yet. Do not remove the paint on the frame where the frame bracket fits. The paint is calculated as part of the correct dimension. On most LC4′s you will need to grind the weld at the back of the head tube, so the bracket can drop all the way down flush. Each bike is a little different; some require a lot of grinding and some very little. Try to remove the weld while retaining the original diameter of the head tube where our bracket will clamp. It is essential for the frame bracket to clamp to a symmetrical, round head tube. When you’ve removed the majority of weld the finished removal should be done with a file for precision clearance, without touching the area where the clamp will seat

YAMAHA ROADSTAR/ WARRIOR ADJUSTABLE REAR LOWERING KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 16-01-2012

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Secure motorcycle to a bike lift and raise the motorcycle. Rear wheel should remain barely resting on the ground. 2. See diagram on page 2 for references made in parentheses, for example (#5). 3. Remove the nut from the rear suspension bolt (#5) at the bottom of the shock (#7). You may need to remove your exhaust and rear horn to access the nut and bolt. 4. Remove this suspension bolt (#5) from the non-exhaust side of the bike. You may need to raise or lower the bike to ease the tension on the bolt in order for it to come out. 5. Next remove the nut (#4) and bolt connecting the relay arm (#3) to the swingarm. From here remove the entire shock assembly and relay arm from the bike. For ease of re-installing the relay arm (Step 8) and shock be sure to take precautions that in removing the assembly, you can put it back the same way you took it off. Flipping of the relay arm can cause serious damage to the lowering kit and surrounding components. 6. Remove the two suspension arms from the relay arm(#3) and shock(#7). Compare stock arm to length of lowering arm you are about to install. Make sure the length of the lowering arm matches the link of the stock arm. To set how much you want to lower the bike, lengthen the lowering arms. Every 1/4″ longer than stock is approximately 1″ of drop. Do not lower the bike more than 2″ for safety reasons. To adjust, unscrew the large hex shaft from the threaded rods. Make sure to adjust length equally on both shafts. Be sure to tighten all jam nuts once desired lowering position is set. 7. Re-assemble the lowering arms to the top of the shock (#7) using the supplied collar, nut, and bolt. The stock collar (#6), the one in the eyelet at the top of the shock (#7), will need to be removed as it is too long. (This is because the heims are thicker than the stock arms) Do not tighten the nut, or re-install into the frame yet. 8. Re-install the relay arm (#3) to the swingarm. The large hex shafts go to the rear of the bike. This is where it

Yamaha V-Star 650 Engine Guard REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 03-01-2012

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Protect the rear portion of the front fender with a towel or other thick, soft cloth. Remove the OEM engine guards if they have been installed on the motorcycle. Your new Barons engine guard will fasten to the frame at the same points as the OEM guard and will use the same hardware. 2. Or, if OEM engine guards are not present, remove the 14mm bolts from the underside of the drivers footpeg mounts. 3. Remove the 12mm upper engine mount bolts located on both sides of the frame. Replacement bolts are included with your new engine guard. 4. Position the engine guard so that the lower brackets point towards the rear of the motorcycle, and slide the engine guard into the space between the front wheel and the frame. 5. Raise the guard until the holes in the lower mounting brackets align with the vacated bolt holes beneath the drivers footpegs. Due to production line tolerances in both the motorcycle and the engine guard, the mounting brackets may be too wide or too narrow for the frame. If this is the case, remove the guard from the motorcycle. Place the guard on a flat, firm surface. Insert a towel or other protective material between the guard and the surface. Using a rubber mallet or a block of wood and a hammer, tap the lower brackets until they are correctly spaced. 6. Insert the large washers (supplied with the guard) between the rear face of the lower bracket and the frame. The washer fills the space between the lower mounting bracket and the footpeg mount. Reinsert the 14mm bolts and finger tighten. 7. Rotate the guard until the holes in the upper mounting brackets align with the empty holes on each side of the frame. 8. Insert the replacement 13mm bolts, along with their washers, and tighten securely. Tighten all other nuts and bolts securely. 9. Remove the protection on the front fender and you’re ready to ride. CAUTION!!! You must re-tighten all four of the engine guard mounting bolts after 100 miles of riding! Care & Cleaning: Engine guards take the full brunt of the worst of what the weather in your area has to offer, making it critical that proper and complete cleaning take place on a weekly basis, or corrosion will occur which is not covered by warranty! Proper cleaning procedure would be to use a product like Simple Green, LOC, Salt-Away or similar. Mix a strong batch and apply it liberally with a soft towel or soft nylon brush to the entire

YAMAHA SINGLE SIDED SWINGARM REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUALS

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 27-12-2011

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1. Disconnect Battery 2. Lift and secure bike 3. Remove brake-side floorboard 4. Remove exhaust. 5. Remove rear fender 6. Remove front pulley cover 7. Remove wheel, pulley, and brake assembly simultaneously. Now remove front pulley from transmission. (Keep up with the stock nut and lock washer; these will be used during assembly) 8. Remove Passenger pegs; now remove the plastic covers in the frame that cover the pivot tube bolts. 9. Remove the stock shock bolts ( keep for re-assembly) 10. Remove the pivot tube bolts. 11. Remove the stock swingarmb12. Install “new” belt at this time. 13. Install supplied pivot tube, and bearings in RC swingarm. 14. Install shock bolt with red loctite in RC swingarm. (Do not tighten bolt at this time) 15. Insert supplied pivot bolts with red loctite through frame and supplied bushings into the RC swingarm. (Right side bushing has flats) 16. Torque shock and pivot bolts to factory specs. 17. Install belt adjustment bolts and single side keys into swingarm.

ACE -325X/ 395 X-XX CLOCK, UNIT, WHEEL, ODOMETER, TEMPERATURE & FUEL METER SETTING

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 24-12-2011

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Setup operations include 12/24hour clock, bar tachometer scale, shift warning RPM, numbers of engine rotation per signal, wheel circumference, units, odometer adjustment, units of temperature, temperature warning and fuel meter input resistance selection. These must be set up step by step. The computer will automatic reversion to main screen if no button operation for 75 seconds at any setting screen. 2. Press both MODE & RESET buttons to go into setting screen. In setting screens, press RESET button to add the flashing digit by 1 or convert units, press MODE button to confirm the digit setting and jump to next digit or next setting screen to be set. Press MODE button for 2 seconds at any setting screen to finish the setting and go to main screen. 3. It displays “12 or 24H and XX:XX-XX” symbols and AM/PM in case you select 12H. Operates buttons as descriptions of item 2 to finish clock and jump to 8,000/16,000rpm scale setting. 4. It displays 8,000rpm scale, presess RESET button to convert 8,000 or 16,000rpm. Press MODE button to confirm the setting and jump to shift RPM warning setting. 5. It displays ” RPM rXXX00 “. Follow the item 2 of button operation to finish the shift RPM warning setting and jump to engine specification setting. 6. It displays “SPC-X.X RPM”, the default value is 1.0; there are 4 options: 1.0, 2.0, 3.0 and 0.5. It means the numbers of engine rotation per signal. For example the value 2.0 means the engine rotate 2 turns to output a signal. 7. Press RESET button to move in loop sequence from one to another value of the 4 values. Press MODE button to confirm the setting and go to wheel circumference setting screen. 8. In “cXXXX” display, “c” means “Circumference”, following 4 default digits; flashing digit is digit to be set. Follow the item 2 of button operation to finish the wheel circumference setting and jump to unit setting. 9. It displays KM/h or MPH, each press of RESET button converts unit; press MODE button to confirm unit setting and jump to odometer setting. 10. It displays “ODO & 00000Xkm”, the “X” is tested odometer in factory, follow item 2 to setting a desired odometer and jump to thermometer unit setting. The setting screen will disappear when the odometer is over 30km or your setting is over 30km and returned to main screen. 11. It displaysm ” , or oFF”, each press of RESET button converts , or oFF; press MODE button to confirm temperature setting and jump to temperature warning setting. 12. It displays ” XXX” and the selected unit. Follow the item 2 of button operation to finish the temperature warning setting and go to fuel sensor input resistance setting. 13. It displays “100r and fuel tank symbol”, follow the item 2 to select 100, 250, 510 Ohm or oFF and return to the main screen. The fuel meter bar will disappear if you select oFF mode.

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Honda GL 500 MiniTrike Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 29-04-2011

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Refer to diagram for bracket identification 1. Secure motorcycle in an upright stable position 2. Attach bracket A (left) to rear footpeg mount. 3. Attach bracket B (right) to rear footpeg mount. 4. Remove rear saddlebags. 5. Attach top of brackets C/D to saddlebag sub frame hardware as in photo. Place enclosed 3/8 spacer between brackets C/D and inside of sub frame. 6. Attach axles and wheels to MiniTrike frame and place in proper position and relation behind motorcycle. 7. Attach bracket A (left) / B (right) to TOP of forward attaching points on MiniTrike frame. 8. Attach bottom of brackets C/D to rear mounting plate on MiniTrike frame 9. Ensure MiniTrike is square with motorcycle and tighten all bolts. 10. Remount saddlebags. Wheel Alignment Wheel alignment is critical for proper tire wear and handling. With MiniTrike installed measure A and B . Loosen axle plates and align wheel so A and B are equal to within 1/16th of an inch. Tighten axle bolts and torque to 45 pounds. Repeat for C and D . It may be necessary to shim axle plates for proper alignment. NOTE : The measurement of A and B may not be the same as C and D. This is normal and presents no difficulty

MOTORCYCLE SERVICE LIFT ADAPTER KIT FOR DYNA TC88 MODELS INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 28-04-2011

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Installation A Service Manual for your motorcycle is available at your Harley-Davidson Dealer. 1. See Figure 1. Position the motorcycle on a straight and level surface. While the bike rests on the Jiffy Stand, straighten the front wheel and place the frame leveling extrusion under the front tire to keep the tire straight. 2. Slide the motorcycle lift (fully lowered) under the bike from the right side (opposite jiffy stand side) lining up the frame rails with each of the perpendicular jacking rails on the lift. When properly aligned, the left frame rail will be approximately 1″ from the lift end section (Figure 2) and lift base will be adjacent to the Jiffy Stand (Figure 3). This will allow bike to be centered when moved to an upright position

YAMAHA YZF R6T/ YZF R6TC SPECIFICATIONS AND SUPPLEMENTARY SERVICE MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 26-04-2011

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This Supplementary Service Manual has been prepared to introduce new service and data for the,YZF-R6T / YZF-R6TC. For complete service information procedures it is necessary to use this Sup- plementary Service Manual together with the following manual. YZF-R6R / YZF-R6SR / YZF-R6RC / YZF-R6SRC SERVICE MANUAL: CHASSIS TIGHTENING TORQUES NOTE: 1. Insert the front wheel axle from the rightside and tighten it with the flange bolt from the left side to 91 Nm (9.1 m•kg, 66 ft•lb). 2. In the order from the pinch bolt → pinch bolt → pinch bolt , tighten each bolt to 21 Nm (2.1 m•kg, 15 ft•lb) without perform ing temporary tightening. 3. Check that the end face of the axle head and the end face of the fork side are flush- mounted. If they are out of alignment, make sure to fit them by adding the external force by hand or with a plastic hammer, etc. If the end face of the axle is not parallel to the end face of the fork, align them so that one point of the axle circumference is positioned on the end face of the fork. At this stage, it can be accepted if the end face of the axle becomes partially concave to the end face of the fork. 4. In the order from the pinch bolt → pinch bolt → pinch bolt , tighten each bolt to 21 Nm (2.1 m•kg, 15 ft•lb) without performing temporary tightening