Kawasaki ZX-14 TITANIUM SIDEWINDER EXHAUST Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 30-04-2012

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STEP 2: PRE-ASSEMBLE HEADERS, COLLECTOR, AND MID-PIPE TO INSURE PROPER FIT BETWEEN ALL PARTS: Brock’s Performance pre-assembles the exhaust system before it is shipped to your door. We ask you to this to insure there were no shipping damages incurred before you start disassembling your bike. A lot of our customers use WD-40 applied to the joints to ease assembly, adjustment, and/or disassembly. STEP 3: REMOVE ZX-14 RIGHT AND LEFT DASHBOARDS : The right and left dashboards are held in place by three fasteners (Figure 4) which are removed with a No. 4 hex head wrench. Note that all dashboard and fairing fasteners have thin plastic washers located between the fastener head and the plastic body work. Be careful to save the plastic washers. To avoid losing fasteners and washers it is recommended that the installer place them in a container once they are removed. STEP 4: REMOVE ZX-14 LOWER FAIRING : The lower fairing consists of separate right and left side panels, both of which should be removed. The locations of the bolts and plastic push pins holding the fairing in place are illustrated in Figure 5. Details are provided below. • The plastic push pins is located in the front of the fairing (3) , aft of the front tire, and holds the left and right panels together. Remove the plastic push pins using a thin blade screw driver to lift the rivet head. Then pull the rivet from the bodywork. This will release the right panel from the left panel. • Remove the lower fairing fasteners & washers (1 & 2) on the right fairing panel with a No. 5 hex head wrench. • Remove the upper fairing fasteners & washers (4, 5, & 6) on the right fairing panel with a No. 4 hex head wrench. • Note that the top of the fairing incorporates slots into which hooks at the bottom of the mid fairing (red bodywork) fit. These hooks are shown in Figure 8. Pull the bottom of the lower fairing panel away from the bike and then downward to clear the hooks from the slots. The right side lower fairing should now separate easily from the mid-fairing. • Repeat for the left side lower fairing

Kawasaki Vulcan Front Suspension Lowering Kit Installation manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 27-02-2011

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INSTALLATION 1. This lowering method requires replacement of the front spring spacers. This is a simple task, and is completely reversible. First, raise the front tire off of the ground before you begin. Raise the motorcycle so no weight is applied to the front wheel. 2. Cover the gas tank with a thick towel to prevent scratching. Don’t omit this…you’ll be sorry if you do! 3. If the handlebar risers are OEM (stock), loosen the handlebars in their clamps and lift them from the risers, carefully placing them on the gas tank on a thick towel to prevent scratching. This will allow room for the spring spacers to be removed from the front forks. 4. Using a small knife blade, sharp screw driver, etc. in the pinch grove on each side of the triple clamp, gently pry upwards and pop the chromed plastic covers off. These are the covers on the top of the front forks, covering the spring retainers. Below these chrome caps, you’ll find a gold anodized metal plug with a small counter bore in the center. This is the part used to retain the springs within the front fork tubes. Using an extension bar, large Phillips screwdriver, etc., press down a bit in the counter bored area of the plug to take the pressure off of the small internal “C” ring. While this “gold” colored plug is depressed, remove the internal C-ring. The C-ring is made of small diameter wire. Once the C-ring is removed, slowly release the pressure on the plug and it’ll push itself out of the top of the shock. The picture below is of the upper fork leg with the gold retaining plug removed. 5. Stick a finger into the fork tube, and slide the OEM tubular spacer up and out of the fork tube. 6. The picture below illustrates the use of a Scootworks lowering spacer with the fork spring. On the right hand end of the you’ll see a Scootworks lowering spacer. The fork spring stays in the front fork, and you’ll drop in the spacer with the desired amount of lowering. The approximate amount of lowering is marked on each Scootworks spacer. 7. Select the spacers for the desired amount of lowering. The longest spacers supplied are marked as [1] and will lower the front suspension 1″. The spacers of middle length are marked as [2] and will lower the front suspension by 2″. The shortest spacers supplied in the kit are marked as [3] and will lower the front suspension by 3″. Omission of the spacers completely will lower the front suspension by approximately 4″. 8. Install the selected spacers in the fork tubes, on top of the internal fork spring. Place the gold anodized metal plugs on top of the spacers and press them back into the fork tube. Be sure to turn the metal plug so the side with the counter bore is facing outwards. Reinstall the C-rings, and gently lower the front end back to the ground. Make sure the C-rings seat themselves in their respective grooves when the weight of the bike is placed back on the front end. Re-install the chrome caps.

HONDA GL18000 DRIVER BOARDS REPLACEMENT RUBBER PADS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Remove any loose pads, remove any remaining rubber & glue using a blade screwdriver or razor blade. 2. Rough up the chrome surface with sand paper or by scratching with the tip of a screw driver. 3. Clean any remaining glue residue off using acetone solvent or nail polish remover. 4. Clean both the floorboards and the back side of the rubber pad with rubbing alcohol. 5. Using the supplied small brush and tube of 3M weather strip adhesive, apply a thin layer of glue to both the floorboard and the backside of the rubber pad or pads. Allow to dry for 10-15 minutes or until tacky to the touch. Apply a second thin coat to both surfaces and while still wet press the rubber firmly into place and keep pressure applied evenly for 45-60 seconds

HONDA VTX 1300 AND 1800 RETRO DRIVER BOARDS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 24-12-2010

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1. Remove the stock driver boards. Looking underneath the boards locate the pins on which the boards pivot. Remove the circlips and washers. Slide the pins out and remove the board from its mount. Note how the spring is installed. 2. Place the new board onto the mount. Slide the pin thru one side of the mount and board. Next install the spring into the open area. NOTE: the spring leg with the bent end should go into the slot or pocket on the board. Push the pin thru the spring’s center hole. Using a screw driver rotate the other leg of the spring up onto the black mount. Continue pushing the pin the rest of the way thru the board and black mount. Re-install the washers and circlips.

HONDA VT750 EXHAUST SYSTEM INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 24-12-2010

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REMOVING THE STOCK EXHAUST SYSTEM 1. Remove the header flange nuts at the exhaust port on the front and rear head pipes. 2. Remove the two 8mm nuts from the muffler mounting bracket, while supporting the entire exhaust system. Lower the system down and set it aside. Note: Save the stock hardware for reuse. INSTALLING YOUR NEW VANCE & HINES EXHAUST SYSTEM 1. Check the stock exhaust gaskets to be sure they are in good shape. If you have any doubts as to their condition, replace them. 2. Install the muffler mounting bracket (stamped 268) to the original muffler mounting point, using the two stock 8mm nuts. Refer to figure 1. 3. Slide one dog bone shaped nut plate under the bracket that is welded to the backside of the front muffler. 4. Install the front head pipe to the cylinder head using the stock nuts. Attach the muffler to the mounting bracket using the two 5/16″ flange bolts (supplied). Leave the nuts and bolts loose at this time. 5. Repeat steps 2 and 3 with the rear header. 6. Align the mufflers so they are parallel when viewing from the right hand side of the motorcycle. Tighten all the hardware evenly. 7. Unscrew all of the hose clamps (supplied) until they are completely loose. Mark the top edge of both heat shields with the location of the mounting clips that are welded to the backside. Position the front heat shield over the head pipe and feed the tail end of the hose clamps into the clips. Be sure that each hose clamp is engaged with both clips. Repeat this step with the rear heat shield. 8. Rotate the hose clamps on both heat shields so they are accessible with a screw driver and tighten each of them evenly. The screw end of the hose clamp should be accessible, but not visible when pipe is mounted on the bike. Note : The heat shields should cover the weld on the muffler. 9. Be sure to remove any dirt, oil or finger prints from the entire exhaust system before starting the motorcycle.

HARLEY DAVIDSON SOFTAIL Longshot Exhaust System REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 18-12-2010

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the front heat shield over the head pipe and feed the tail end of the hose clamps into the clips. Be sure that each hose clamp is engaged with both clips. Give the screw three to four turns, leaving heat shield loose on the head pipe. Repeat this step with the rear heat shield. Note: The screw end of the hose clamp should be accessible, but not visible when pipe is mounted on the bike. 4. Install the front head pipe using the stock nuts, do not tighten at this time. 5. Install the rear head pipe using the stock nuts, do not tighten at this time. 6. Install the mounting bracket (stamped 304) to the frame, by aligning the two 3/8″ holes in bracket with the two holes in the frame below the right rear footrest, using the two 3/8″-16 x 3/4″ flange head bolts (supplied), do not tighten at this time (Refer to fig.1). 7. Install one muffler clamp over the front (notched end) of each muffler. 8. Slip one muffler onto the rear head pipe. Slide one dog bone shaped nut plate under the bracket that is welded to the backside of the muffler and attach the muffler to the mounting bracket using two of the 5/16″ flange head bolts (supplied), but leave them loose at this time. 9. Repeat step #9 with the front muffler. 10. Adjust the heat shields and mufflers so they are flush where the the two parts meet each other (Refer to figure 2). 11. Align the mufflers so they are parallel when viewing from the right side of the bike, and tighten the 5/16″ flange bolts on the back side of both mufflers. 12. Tighten the two 3/8″ bolts that attach the mounting bracket to the frame. 13. Tighten the two nuts on both the front and rear head pipe flanges. 14. Tighten the two muffler clamps. 15. Rotate the hose clamps on both heat shields so they are accessible with a screw driver and tighten them. 16. Retighten floor board mounting bolts on models so equipped. 17. Be sure to tighten all hardware before starting your motorcycle

1933 AJS 33- 7 OHC Trophy Owners Manual

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Filed Under (AJS) by admin on 31-10-2010

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the cylinder head can then be lifted up and off. There is no Spigot or washer on the Cylinder Barrel, hut the Head must he lifted high enough to clear the two Cylinder Head studs. If the Cylinder Barrel is removed do not prise this from (he Crank-case but place the palms of the hands round the finning and rock the Cylinder from side to side and when it starts to leave the crank-case lift upwards. Do not let the connecting rod fall heavily against the mouth of the Crank-case or the crank-case face will be damaged. When removing the Piston, only withdraw one Gudgeon Pin Circlip with the special pliers provided and then either push the Gudgeon Pin out from the opposite side or insert a screw-driver inside the Gudgeon Pin and bear the screw-driver to one side and turn the Pin slowly out of the Piston Bosses. The Gudgeon Pin is a sliding fit in the Piston and Small End. When the Piston is removed either remember the correct original position indicated by the remaining Circlip, or take a sharp instrument and make a mark on the inside of the piston to indicate front and back ; be sure to replace the Piston in its original position, For the removal of the Valves we list a special tool costing 5s. 9d. Part No. XB3340; and for Valve Grinding a Small Tool costing 1s. 6d. Part No. XB.3360. The accompanying illustration shows the method of operation of both the valve extractor and the valve grinding tool; although the Cylinder Head shown does not of course belong to a Camshaft Model the operation is similar. For portability the valve extractor is made to fold. Be careful to see that the portion of the toot which depresses the valve spring collar is central before compressing the spring, otherwise it is almost impossible to remove the split cones. An important factor to watch when replacing the valve springs is that the collars are replaced underneath the valve springs. Whilst the cylinder head is dismantled remove the oil feed nipples to the valve guides to ascertain that these are clear; the inlet nipple, it will be noticed, is purposely restricted with a disc, so be careful to see that these nipples are replaced correctly.

AJS DISMANTLING AND REBUILDING FULL- WIDTH REAR WHEEL HUBS

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Filed Under (AJS) by admin on 31-10-2010

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The numbers shown thus: (2), refer to the num­ bered parts in the illustration. (a) Disconnect the speedometer driving cable. (b) Remove the lock-nut (16) which secures the speedometer-drive gearbox in position. (c) Remove the wheel from the frame. (d) Grasp the speedometer-drive gearbox with the fingers and firmly pull it away from the hub. (e) Slacken the circlip lock-nut (13). (f) Unscrew and remove the adjusting sleeve (14). With it will come: the sleeve (2) upon which the speedometer-drive No. 504 gearbox is mounted; the lock-nut (13) and the hub cover disc. (g) From the brake side of the wheel remove the spindle nut (19) and washer (18), the spacer for the fork end (17), and the outer spacer (20) (h) Withdraw the brake cover plate com­ plete with the brake shoes from the brake drum. (i) Remove the inner spacer (12). (j) If it is desired to remove the brake drum, take off the nuts (23) and washers (24). and pull the drum away from the hub. It is located on a spigot in the hub. The bolts (25) will remain in the hub and can be pushed out. (k) Press out the spindle (1). It can be withdrawn from either side and pushed out with a press and a suitable brass or copper rod of slightly less diameter than the spindle, or driven out with a ham­ mer and a copper or brass drift. (1) Remove the oil-seal retaining washer (3). the oil seal (4), the oil-seal cup (5), and oil-seal distance piece (6). These can be hooked out with the shank of a small and narrow screw-driver

Harley Davidson Installing The Ride Time Ultra Progressive Tour Pak LED Tail Lights

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 31-10-2010

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Remove the light bulbs from the tail light housing by depressing the tab on the bulb socket assembly and turning counter clockwise. Remove the bulb from the bulb socket. 2. Remove the lenses from the warp-around light fixture. These lens are held in place by a non-hardening black sealant. In addition, there are three plastic alignment tabs on the lens body that clip into the lens frame. To remove the lens, insert the supplied push Stick through the hole in the back of the light bulb housing and gently but firmly push the lens outward. This action places a stress on the alignment tabs. 3 . Using a flat blade screw driver, pry the lens away from the frame at the top, side, and bottom to release the lens alignment tabs. Go back to step 2, and use the plastic tube to push the lens outward. It may be necessary to repeat the prying process and pushing process several times to remove the lens. Note: Some users have found it useful to heat the lens area with a hair dryer to soften the adhesive. Included in this kit are: Left and Right LED modules, 1 RTQC Quick Connect Accessory Cable , 2 RTV application sticks, 1 push stick, Approximately 3 inches of shrink tube, and 1 copy of instructions. Required for installation, but not included are: A tube of Permatex RTV (available at Wal-Mart), 1/8 inch drill bit, a drill, small flat blade screwdriver, other hand tools. Window/ body sealer if required to reseat lenses can be obtained at your local glass shop. Tour Pak, Harley Davidson, Electraglide, Raod King, and Ultraglide are registered trade marks of Harley David- son. Harley Davidson does not make or endorse the use of these lights. 4. When the lens begins to emerge from the frame, grasp it at the top and bottom and pull the lens from the housing using a up and down motion. Set the lens aside . Avoid having the sealant contact other surfaces. In most cases, the lens can be reinstalled without adding additional sealant . Note: Do not use RTV to reset the lens. If sealant is needed obtain a non-hardening body/windshield sealant from your local glass shop. 6. When you are comfortable with the location of the circuit board, drill a 1/8 inch hole in the back of the light housing. This hole will be used to bring the turn signal wire from the LED module into the Tour Pak. 7. Using the supplied stick, spread a thin layer of Permatex clear RTV silicone seal along the area where the circuit board will be located. Apply a similar layer to the top of the light housing. Route the turn signal wire through the 1/8″ hole and position the circuit board in the housing. Allow the RTV to cure. 5. Test fit the LED light board in the light housing.