Harley-Davidson HEAT DEMONS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 27-03-2012

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1. Remove the Right Handlebar Control, upper and lower switch housing screws, and Right Grip from the Handlebar according to the service-manual instructions and set aside or leave hanging. Remember to insert a spacer between the rear brake light switch and the lever to keep the switch from being broken. 2. Remove the Left Hand switch housing from the handlebar according to the service-manual instructions. 3. Using a T27 TORX drive head remove the half of the clamp that secures the clutch hand lever to the handlebar and discard. The Heat Demon controller will replace this clamp when finishing the installation. Separate the clutch hand lever assembly from the handlebar and move away from the bar. 4. Mark the location of the Left Grip and remove it by twisting, heating or with air pressure. Almost all grips can be removed without damage. If this does not work it may be necessary to cut the grip for removal. 5. A hole needs to be drilled in the bottom of the handlebar to route the power wires and wires from the Controller. The location of the hole should be in the groove or recess on the bottom of the handlebar under the Left Switch Housing at the end of the groove toward the grip. Start by punching a hole location with a center punch to pierce the chrome. Use safety glasses that completely cover the eyes to protect from steel chips while drilling! Start with a small drill like a 3/32″ size to make the initial hole. Then use progressively larger drills or a step drill to increase the hole size to 5/16″. After the hole is drilled use a round file or deburring tool to remove the sharp edges. 6. Uncoil the plastic snake from the kit and run it from the right end of the handlebar out the left end. Twisting the snake or inserting it vertically versus flat can help to push around the corners. 7. Attach the white and yellow wires from the Right Grip Heater (Item 3) to the hole in the plastic snake and pull them through the bar so they exit the left end. (See drawing below) 8. Push the right heater into the handlebar by squeezing it together and sliding it fully inside of the bar. The end of the heater with the orange cap should be pushed in first. Cut the white and yellow wire to extend 4 inches beyond the left end of handlebar. 9. Install the Right Throttle Control and Grip according to the service manua

Harley Davidson FLH EZ-Steer Installation MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 22-03-2012

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Installation of the Champion EZ-Steer system is similar to the installation of the OEM triple clamp of your Harley Davidson FLH Motorcycle. We recommend that you use an OEM service manual and follow the prescribed disassembly, installation and torque specifications for the upper and lower clamp assembly. Before Installing Kit (2008 & Prior) The wiring bracket of the OEM upper triple clamp needs to be modified to fit the Champion upper triple clamp. After removing / disassembling the OEM parts from your motorcycle, position the OEM wiring bracket onto the Champion upper clamp as shown. Scribe the ID of the steering stem hole onto the wiring bracket and enlarge the hole to scribe line. This will allow the wiring bracket to fit over the new Stem Lock-Nut. Install OEM handle bar mount assemblies to Champion upper clamp using Item #5 (Handle Bar Mount Spacer). The spacers are used on top of the upper clamp. Installation Notes • Be sure to use the correct fork extension. Yellow 2002 and newer (non adjustable air pressure). Black for 2001 and older (adjustable air pressure). Be sure to double check the fork cap (Fork Tube Plug) being removed. • Reinstall the OEM O-rings on Item #7 (Fork Extensions) prior to installing in the fork tubes. • On some of the Road King models with chrome headlight Nacelle, Item #9 must be mounted underneath upper clamp Item #2 to ensure enough room for air fittings. • Be sure to replace fork covers in proper order, during installation of the fork tubes. • Thoroughly clean sides of steering neck and install self adhering rubber stops where steering stop screws contact frame. • Secure wires and cables clear of steering stop bolts. • Do not torque Item # 1 (½-20 x 1-1/4″ Hex Head Bolt) until fork tubes have been installed to assembly. • Note the torque specification for the items listed in the table below.

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Yamaha V-Star 1100 Jetting the Carburetors INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 11-03-2012

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Remove air filter housing Remove the seat or seats Disconnect Fuel Lines (also the vapor line from tank to charcoal canister on California models) Disconnect instrument connectors from the fuel tank Remove fuel tank Remove air box Disconnect TPS and heater connectors Remove chrome carb cover Disconnect Fuel Lines Remove rubber carb elbows Disconnect throttle cables from carbs Remove the carbs Perform the jetting 1. Remove the Chrome air filter housing. To remove the chrome dog-dish (air filter housing) from the right side of the bike, you will need to remove the two mounting bolts and loosen the clamp that holds the air duct to the back of the housing. You will need a 5 mm Allen wrench and a #2 Philips screwdriver. 2. Remove the seats. This can be accomplished by using a 5 mm Allen wrench and removing the Allen head bolt from just behind the rear seat and the bolt just behind the front seat. Pulling up and back will free the seats. One smooth motion will do it. 3. Gain access to the dashboard plug and unplug it (It is white) Note: Your trip odometer will lose its count, please record the number if you wish to save your current mileage for this tank of gas. Figure A shows the three plastic rivets that need to be removed to gain access to the dashboard plug. Using your Philips head screwdriver, press the small circle in the middle of the rivets down… a click is felt. Remove the rivets by hand. You have freed the cover and you may lift it up to expose the electrical connector that needs to be unplugged. Figure B shows the plug

Ktm 690 SM/ SMC/ SMR/ Duke Removal and Installation weld slag

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 04-03-2012

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1. Each bike varies with regard to welds and gussets. Review the photos first to get the idea of what needs to be done. 2. These photos may not be your exact model but depict the concept of what must be done. 3. Block the front tire securely before removing the top triple clamp so the tire cannot move at all. See photos. 4. Support the rear tire also, just enough to keep tension on the front tire so the forks stay tight. 5. Warning: Once the triple clamp is loose, the forks can roll away from the bike AND it happens very quickly . 6. The main triple clamp nut adjusts the tension on the steering head bearings. Make note of its tension before removing and do not over tighten the nut. It should be seated just enough to take the play out of the bearing.. 7. The top of the gauge/light cluster is mounted to the top triple clamp. You have to take out 4 self tapping Phillips head screws to remove the gauge pod. There is one connector on the back side of that and then it comes off. Then there are two bolts that need to come out with an 8mm wrench to free the top triple clamp. 8. Loosen the triple clamp pinch bolt under the main nut and forks pinch bolts and remove the top triple clamp, taking note of how tight the main nut is, so you can re-tighten it to the exact amount. Remove the tin bearing shroud (cover) and rubber seal making note of how the seal goes on, (lips face downward). 9. Grease your bearings while you have them exposed. (Keep the grease off the area where our frame bracket mounts!). 10. The goal is to allow the frame bracket to clamp cleanly and squarely around the upper half of the head tube. 11. Review your individual bike’s welding characteristics at the head tube. You’ll notice on the head tube there is a “groove” machined 360 degrees around the head tube. Everything in or above this groove must be clean of welds or slag. If this groove is visible all the way around and no welding slag has extended upward into or past this groove, then you’re installation should be easy. Any welds extending into or above this groove must be filed away, but without changing the clamping area diameter. DO NOT file away the paint on the clamping area if possible. Spend a little more time filing carefully and your bracket will stay tight. 12. Each bike seems to have not only different welds, but slightly different gussets. Evaluate your individual bike to determine the best fit. The bracket must clamp squarely and cleanly to the area just above that groove and yet SIT FLUSH all the way around the diameter of the head tube as per the photo in the lower right corner. Do not allow the bracket to protrude above the seal seating surface. Use a flashlight to see up under the bracket where it’s hitting if it’s not Flush. This bracket has clearance cut into it to clear the backbone of the frame

Suzuki M 109 WINDSHIELD INSTALLATION AND OWNER'S MANUAL

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 18-02-2012

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Position the motorcycle securely on its stand or a work stand. Cover the front fender and fuel tank with a cloth to avoid scratches from dropped tools. 1. Use the above diagram toidentify left from right Lower and Upper Mount Brackets. Figure 1 2. Cut each of the clamp spacers in half to make 8 pieces, each 2.5 x 1.55″. 3. Apply one spacer to the inside of each mount bracket. Figure 2 Figure 1 Figure 2 N28201 and N28202 WINDSHIELD INSTALLATION AND OWNER’S MANUAL for Suzuki®M109 Right and Left side of Motorcycle is determined while sitting on the bike. Determine left from right Upper bracket. Washer angles inboard about 5 degrees. Note, Angle distinguishes Right from Left Lower Mount Bracket 1 2 4 3 5 6 8 9 10 National Cycle, Inc. Maywood, IL 60153-0158 USA 708-343-0400 / Fax: 708-343-0625 www.nationalcycle.com / e mail:info@nationalcycle.com Page 1 of 3 10-114056-000 08/07 / Rev B. 03/08 7 3, Left Upper Bracket 4, Right Upper Bracket About 5 0 inboard angle
INSTALLATION Measurements provided for clamp location. From this point you can adjust the brackets 1″ (22mm) higher if you prefer keeping in mind, position of the front nose of windshield should have a minimum of 1/2″ (13mm) clearance from cowling . Figure 3. Right Side Lower Mount Assembly 1. Start on the Right Side of motorcycle. At the top of the fork, place one inner black clamp on the fork tube. Figure 4 2. Hook the RIGHT SIDE lower mount bracket (2) to the inside clamp. Figure 5 3. Slide assembly down fork so bottom edge of bracket is 1.75″ (44mm) from top of lower triple clamp. Adjust bracket so flat in bracket runs parallel with motorcycle. Figure 6 and 7 4. Loosely install one M8 x 16 screw. (6mm Hex Key) Figure 7 Right Side Upper Mount Assembly 5. Place the second inside black clamp on the right fork tube.

Ktm 950 SMR Installation and Removal Manual

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 27-01-2012

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Be sure the triple clamp in your kit has a part # 3012R- 27 -6-0208 on the bottom side. This is very important. 2. Warning: Once the triple clamp is loose, the forks can roll away from the bike . Block it up properly to start with. 3. Block the front tire securely before removing the top triple clamp, so the tire cannot move forward. It’s best to tie the forks up to something above you, like the rafters, using tie downs, or a tie down from the front axle up and over the frame backbone and then underneath the lower triple clamp. Once the forks start to come off while working, it’s extremely difficult to get them back together without help. Block the back wheel up also, so it puts pressure on the front end, forcing it to stay in position. Spend the time setting this up correctly and your installation will go easier. 4. This kit requires removal of the headless “Security” bolts that hold the key switch in place. These bolts will need to be drilled out in order to remove them, pictures below. Removal is fairly easy, if you follow these instructions. 5. Examine all the wire and cable routing before removal and make notes of where everything goes. 6. Remove 2 bolts that hold the headlight shroud in place. Be careful not to lose the small bushings that fall out easily. 7. Follow the wire from the ignition switch to the wire loom in the headlight shroud and unplug it. There is no locking tab on this plug so you can usually undo it without having to disassemble the wiring. 8. Remove the 4 bolts that hold your bars tight and lay the bars forward out of the way (Bungie or tie to the front of bike). 9. Be sure the front end is securely blocked or tied to something above the bike. Remove the top triple clamp, taking note of how tight the 27mm main nut is, so you can re-tighten to the exact tension for the bearing. The main nut merely provides the correct tension on the head tube bearing, so the tension is critical. The nut will NOT be tight coming off. Once the fork and triple clamp pinch bolts are loose, the main nut can be removed. It’s difficult to get a wrench on the main nut. We were able to sneak the stock KTM axle wrench in there, otherwise, you may have to loosen the lower bar perches using an 8mm Allen wrench and a 17mm socket for the underside nuts. Once the main nut is off, lift the triple clamp off carefully , trying not to disturb the blocked-front-wheel. A rubber mallot is helpful here

Ktm 625/ 640/ 660 LC4's and some 640 Adventures Removal and Installation Manual

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 24-01-2012

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1. There are 3 pages of instructions here. Review all 3 first! These model bikes normally require modifications. 2. Warning: Once the triple clamp is loose, the forks can roll away from the bike . Follow step 2 carefully. 3. Block the front and rear tire securely before removing the top triple clamp, keeping the weight pushed on the front wheel so the front tire cannot move forward and the forks are forced upward, keeping the bearing in the head tube. 4. Remove the 4 bolts holding your bars tight and lay the bars forward out of the way. 5. Using Loc-tite, change the lower nuts on the under side of your triple clamp that hold your bar perches. Use the “low profile” version that we have supplied in the kit. You will need access to the Allen head bolts in the lower perch halves. Without these low profile nuts the triple clamp will not be free to turn lock to lock. There are occasions where you may have to grind on the frame bracket to allow a little extra clearance for even the low profile nuts (see photo). Because the bars are rubber mounted, this clearance varies from bike to bike. Turn the triple clamp lock to lock and be sure you have clearance. You must change them now, as later you won’t have room to do so. 6. Now remove the top triple clamp taking note of how tight the main nut is, so you can re-tighten to the exact amount. 7. Remove the tin bearing shroud (cover) and rubber seal. The lips of the seal face downward for correct installation. 8. The new shorter bearing shroud will replace the stock tin shroud, giving the frame bracket more room to seat. 9. Grease your bearings while you have them exposed. (Keep the grease off the area where our frame bracket mounts). 10. Only if your model is equipped with one, you will need to cut off the upper portion of the square steering lock receiver box (see photo). The steering lock stays functional as the lock-pin still engages the lower the portion of the box. Mark and cut the top of the box off. You must cut enough to allow our frame bracket to drop down far enough so the entire bracket grabs the head tube. If you don’t allow the frame bracket enough clamping surface it will come loose. The upper edge of the frame bracket should be level with the step where your stock bearing seal seats. (See photo). 11. Install the frame bracket so it matches the clamping area on your head tube, but do not tighten it yet. Do not remove the paint on the frame where the frame bracket fits. The paint is calculated as part of the correct dimension. On most LC4′s you will need to grind the weld at the back of the head tube, so the bracket can drop all the way down flush. Each bike is a little different; some require a lot of grinding and some very little. Try to remove the weld while retaining the original diameter of the head tube where our bracket will clamp. It is essential for the frame bracket to clamp to a symmetrical, round head tube. When you’ve removed the majority of weld the finished removal should be done with a file for precision clearance, without touching the area where the clamp will seat

YAMAHA RAPTOR 350 Removing stock carburetor and cables

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 18-01-2012

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remove seat and gas tank. Make sure fuel petcock is in “off” position. 2. Remove throttle cable paying close attention to routing, as the new cable (s) will need too be routed the same. 3. Remove stock carburetor and stock throttle housing. Stuff a clean, dry rag into manifold to keep debris out of motor. 4. Remove stock air box. 5. Remove choke cable from handlebars. 6. Remove carb vent line from bike. Carburetor installation 1. Carefully trim the rubber alignment tab off of the face of the manifold with a razor blade or side cutters. 2. Remove the hex pipe plug from the carb cap using a 11mm or 7/16 wrench. Do not discard plug, as it will be needed later. Install the metering adjustment tool included in the hardware kit. Do not over-tighten as damage may occur to cap. 3. Attach fuel line to carburetor and secure with clamp. 4. Install remote idle cable into tab on top of carburetor. See main manual for this step. NOTE: Nut must be removed from cable before installation 5. Place carburetor into manifold

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2007-2010 HONDA CBR 600RR DUAL CANISTER SLIP-ON INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 10-12-2011

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Hyperflo must insist that this system be used for track and closed course use only. Professional installation is recommended. Before beginning installation, please insure your motorcycle exhaust and omponents are not hot and have had ample time to cool. Please insure the motorcycle has been secured properly and is on level ground. We recommend the use of a service table. Hyperflo offers professional installation help at 801.999.8183. • 2 CARBON FIBER CANISTERS
• 2 END TIPS  (Options: Classic or Billet Stylewith sound cores) • MIDPIPE • 2 SPRINGS • 1 CLAMP
• UPPER MOUNTING BRACKET WITH BLINKERS ATTACHED • LOWER MOUNTING BRACKET WITH TAIL LIGHT AND PLATE MOUNTS • BRACKET BOLT (8MM X 75MM 1.25T) • EXTRA STICKERS • 8 TERMINAL ENDS/BUTT SPLICES 20072010 HONDA CBR 600RR DUAL CANISTER SLIPON INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS IMPORTANT! PLEASE READ PARTS LIST
YPERFLO RECOMMENDS THAT YOU LABEL SMALL PLASTIC BAGGIES TO KEEP HARDWARE SORTED AS IT IS REMOVED.
HARDWARE SORTED AS IT IS REMOVED. 1. INSURE THE EXHAUST SYSTEM AND EXHAUST COMPONENTS ARE FULLY COOLED. 2. INSURE THE MOTORCYCLE IS STABLE ON KICKSTAND OR REAR TIRESTAND OR SERVICE TABLE. 3. REMOVE BOTH THE FRONT AND REAR SEATS. 4. REMOVE THE 4 BOLTS HOLDING THE TAIL FAIRING TO THE SUBFRAME AND REMOVE THE TAIL FAIRING. REMOVE 5. REMOVE TRIM PLASTIC JUST ABOVE RIGHT SIDE FOOTPEG. (REMOVE THE ONE BOLT AND UNCLIP) TRIM PLASTIC UNCLIP REMOVE 6. REMOVE LOWER FOOT PEG BRACKET AND REMOVE THE HEAT SHIELD BOLT. ALLOW THE FOOT PEG BRACKET TO HANG BY THE HOSE AND WIRES. REMOVE 7. REMOVE THE PASSANGER FOOT PEG BRACKET ON THE RIGHT SIDE.

HONDA XL 1000 V VARADERO 2005 AKRAPOVIC SLIP- ON SP SERIES EXHAUST SYSTEM

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 21-11-2011

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coat the bolt and interior side of the metal clamp with Akrapovic anti-seize lead-free copper paste (black tube)
2. correctly position and install the graphite inner sleeve and metal clamp 3. slide the link pipe onto the stock collector 4. hand tighten the bolt of the link pipe bracket 5. make sure the link pipes are not touching the frame and other parts 6.
perform the process on both sides of the motorcycle installing the muffler: 1. position the muffler correctly and slide it onto the outlet side of the link pipe (Figure 17) 2. attach the springs at the muffler – link pipe joint (Figure 18) 3. correctly position the carbon-fiber clamp and slide it onto the muffler – bear in mind the left offset of the carbon-fiber clamp for the right muffler and the right offset for the left muffler viewed from the rear. WARNING: open the clamp to slightly wider than the diameter of the outer sleeve of the muffler – do not scrape it along the muffler outer sleeve! (Figure 19) 4. hand tighten the carbon-fiber clamp onto the stock chassis hanging bracket – use the bolts, washer and spacers supplied in the Akrapovic kit. Do not fully tighten. Make sure the additional parts from the Akrapovic kit are correctly installed. (Figure 20, 21, 22) 5. make sure the muffler is not touching other parts of the motorcycle 6. perform the process on both sides of the motorcycle final installation: 1. tighten the bolt of the link pipe bracket (Figure 23) 2. tighten the carbon-fiber clamp (Figure 24) 3. tighten the metal clamp at the Akrapovic link pipe – stock collector joint (Figure 25) 4. perform the process on both sides of the motorcycle 5. clean grease spots: a. muffler – titanium outer sleeve: use a soft cloth sprayed with a multi-purpose spray lubricant (WD-40 or equivalent) b. muffler – carbon-fiber outer sleeve: use a soft dry cloth c. stainless steel link pipe: use a soft cloth sprayed with a contact cleaner, then wipe with a soft dry cloth Cleaning will prevent spots from burning onto the surface. Do not use aggressive chemical cleaners, because they can damage the sticker. 6. reattach side panels (Figure 26) 7. reconnect the electric connectors for turn signal lamps (Figure 27) 8. reattach the cable for locking / unlocking the seat (Figure 28) 9. reattach the passenger handlebars and top case plate (Figure 29, 30, 31, 32) 10. reattach both seats (Figure 33) 11. position of the installed Akrapovic Slip-on SP series system (Figure 34)