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Harley Davidson Big Twin EVO Engines Edelbrock Performer-Plus Camshaft , Performer RPM Camshaft , & Performer RPM Camshaft INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 03-03-2012

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Disconnect the battery. Secure the motorcycle on a suitable stand with the rear wheel off the ground. Remove components necessary for easy access to rocker covers, pushrod covers, and gear case cover, i.e., exhaust system, gas tank, air cleaner, foot rest, etc. Remove spark plugs. 2. Remove top and middle sections of rocker boxes, then rotate engine so both valves are closed on the cylinder head being worked on (put transmission in high gear and move rear wheel to slowly rotate engine). Remove the two 5/16″ bolts nearest the rocker arm shafts (keep all shafts, rocker arms, and pushrods in order so they can be installed in their original position). Remove the pushrod covers and pushrods. NOTE: The use of adjustable time-saver pushrods will simplify installation. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for installation of those parts. 3. It is not necessary to remove the tappet guides if you use a cam installation tool such as Crane #9-0020 to hold the tappets in place during cam installation. If you remove the tappet guides, you must use a tappet block alignment tool such as Crane #9- 0021 to re-install the tappet guides. Tappets can be held up in place during removal of guides by using U-shaped piece of safety wire or paper clip hooked to the tappets. 4. Remove ignition covers on gearcase cover by drilling out rivets to gain access to sensor plate. Remove the inner cover, sensor plate and rotor. NOTE: For re-installation, use new rivets H-D #8699 or drill and tap for 10-32 screws. 5. Remove the gearcase cover screws and remove cover while holding end of cam inward. Now remove the camshaft, spacing washer and thrust plate

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Honda XR600/ XR650L Camshaft Installation and removal Instructions

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 05-12-2011

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Remove the tappet covers. Remove the crankshaft cap and timing hole cap on the left engine case cover. Remove the spark plug. Rotate the engine in a counter clockwise direction. Position the engine at true top dead center (TDC) using the mark on the flywheel. True top dead center occurs when both the intake and exhaust valve are closed when the piston is at TDC. This is technically the end of the compression stroke and the beginning of the power stroke. The “artificial” TDC is during the overlap when both the intake and exhaust valves would be open. Since the rocker arms are located in the valve cover on an XR600, true TDC occurs when the cam lobes are pointed downward when the piston is at TDC. Remove the cylinder head cover. Warning, do not drop the locating dowels into the cam chain cavity. There are two dowels, one on either side of the cover. Remove and discard the gasket. Note the positioning of the cam lobes, this will help during installation of your new Hot Cams camshaft. Note also the location of the sealed bearing on the end of the camshaft and the direction in which it is facing. Loosen the bolts that hold the camshaft sprocket. Remove the lower camshaft sprocket bolt first, it will be necessary to rotate the engine. Rotate the engine back to TDC. Release the spring tension on the cam chain tensioner by lifting the end of the spring out of its hole in the tensioner block. A spring tool is a good method. Be careful not to scar the cylinder head’s gasket surface for the cylinder head cover. Remove the allen bolt that holds the end of the tensioner block shaft
just to the inside of the tensioner block. Note the location of the tensioner block shaft cap ridge. Using a pair of pliers pull the shaft out by grasping the ridge and using a clockwise rotation of the shaft while pulling outward. Pull the tensioner block upwards, out of the cylinder head. Remove the top camshaft sprocket bolt. Pull the sprocket off the camshaft but maintain upward tension, do not allow the chain to sag, it is possible for the chain to “slip” on the bottom sprocket of the crankshaft and change the cam timing. Remove the camshaft. Remove the cam bearings. Set the stock camshaft with the auto-decompression aside. It is not possible to use the auto-
decompression on the Hot Cams so do not attempt to re-install. Use a manual decompression. Install the bearings onto the new Hot Cam

Harley Davidson Softail Drive Side Brake System Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 30-03-2012

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Removing The Stock Components Although the PM Drive Side Brake System can be installed with the swing arm bolted to the frame, we recommend removing it for better access as well as repainting. Begin by removing rear wheel,stock brake components and belt guard from swing arm. Photo #1 Using supplied 3/4 x 2″bolt,position Drive Side BrakeAssembly on swing arm. Slide assembly to center position of tab and axle spans. Making sure brake mounting tabs are flush with swing arm,snug 3/4 x 2″ bolt to hold assembly and mark swing arm area to be ground Photo #2 . Remove entire assembly from swing arm and thoroughly grind paint away from marked areas Photo #3 . Photo #4 Re-mount assembly to swing arm and slide to rear-most position of both axle and brake mounting tabs. Confirm that brake tabs are flush with swing arm and parallel to each other. Snug 3/4 x 2″bolt and 5/16″socket head cap screws in tabs to hold assembly during welding process. Warning Center the motorcycle on the lift so that it will not fall while you are working on it. Photo #6 Photo #5 Photo #7 Photo #9 Welding Tabs to Swing Arm Note PM recommends all welding be done by a certified welder. Photo #5 Tack weld rear of tabs to swing arm. Avoid excessive welding near brake as- sembly as heat can mar finish. Loosen socket head cap screws and 3/4″bolt,Slide entire assembly to forward most position and re tighten bolts Photo #6 (movement should require minimal effort if tabs are aligned properly) and tack front of tabs to swing arm. Remove brake assembly from swing arm. Weld tabs to swing arm.Verify alignment of tabs, as they must remain parallel to each other. Repaint swing arm and re-install on bike to factory torque specs. Installing Brake Assembly Remove primary bracket from tower assembly (this allows bracket to be installed without having to line up caliper on disc) by removing the three 5/16″socket head cap screws (commonly called allen bolts). Photo #7 Mount rear tire and bolt pulley to rear wheel. Place disassembled bracket against pulley using smaller of two supplied spacers between bracket and pulley. Slide wheel/brake assembly into swing arm. Place large spacer on right side and slide axle in. Do not tighten axle at this point . Photo #8 Slide caliper/tower assembly over disc and install 5/16″x 1″socket head cap screw in center hole to position assembly Photo #9 . Snug, but do not tighten bolt at this point.

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HONDA VTX1300 AIR HORN INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Remove the rider and passenger seats, left chrome side cover & original horn located at the top of the radiator. 2. Locate the supplied black horn mounting bracket and supplied smaller hose clamp. Notice the slight twist in the bracket. Using 2 adjustable wrenches or a vise and one wrench remove the twist from the bracket. Route the hose clamp thru the bracket. (As shown in photo 1A) 3. Install the bracket on to the left frame tube, (As shown in photo 1A) and tighten securely. Bolt the supplied horns to the bracket using the supplied bolt, lock washer and nut, (As shown in photo 1) and tighten securely. Install the supplied trumpet covers (As shown in photo 1B) by flexing the spring clips over the trumpets. Check that they fit securely. If not remove covers, make sure the center screw is tight and bend spring clips in towards center of covers and re-install. Using a blade screwdriver pry the two supplied hoses with the “Y” connector off of the air horns cut a new piece of hose 3 ½” long from the hose and replace the short hose on the “Y”. Re-install the “Y” hose assembly with the short hose going on the long or upper trumpet. (See photo 1C) Re-route the original horn wires. (As shown in photo 1D) 4. From the supplied wire cut 2 pieces 28″ long. Strip ¼” of insulation from both ends. Crimp 2 supplied male terminals to one end and 2 supplied female spade terminals to the other end. Plug the male ends into the original horns wires. (As shown in 1D) Attach the remaining air hose to the “Y”. Tape the hose and wires together every 6-8″ using electrical tape to make routing easier and neater. Route the wires and hose up under the fuel tank, over the cylinder heads coming out between the frame rails at the rear of the fuel tank. (See photo 2A) Locate the supplied relay and plug the 2 wires from the original horn onto terminals 85 & 86 on the relay. (See wiring diagram on back of last page of instructions) This will be the 2 outer terminals that are parallel to each other. Locate the supplied fuse, holder & wire assembly. Crimp a supplied fork terminal to one end and a supplied female spade to the other. Attach the spade terminal to one of the remaining outer relay terminals. (#30 or 87 on wiring diagram) Remove the 3 Phillips screws from the battery top cover. Remove the cover and attach the fork end of the fuse wire to the positive (+) terminal. Re-install the battery cover. 5. Cut a wire 9″ long and strip ¼” insulation from each end, crimp a fork to one end and a female spade to the other. Attach this wire to the compressors negative (-) terminal. Cut another wire 18″ long and strip both ends. Crimp a female spade to both ends. Attach this wire to the compressor positive (+) terminal. Route the air hose out under the left side cover as shown in photo (3). Hold the compressor in place against the frame tube. Note: Looking at the large end of the compressor the space between the hose fitting and the bolt mounting flange forms a “V” shape. This is where the compressor should rest against the frame. Next loop the hose around to the compressor hose fitting and trim the hose to the desired length. Attach the hose to the compressor. Secure the compressor to the frame using 2 large supplied cable ties as shown. 6. (See photo 3A) Attach the compressor negative (-) wire to the bolt on the frame (As shown in photo 3B) Route the compressor positive (+) wire along the side up to the relay and attach to the remaining outer terminal 87 or 30. Cable tie the relay in place. (As shown in photo 2B) Use several of the supplied short cable ties to secure the compressor wires to the air hose (As shown in photo 3) as wells as any other loose wire or hose.

POLINI XP 65 R USE AND MAINTENANCE MANUAL

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Filed Under (Polini) by admin on 24-11-2010

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The following instructions give the most practical order for assembling the various parts of your motorcycle. 1- Remove the motorcycle from the crate (photo 1). 2- Remove all the parts needed to reassemble the motorcycle from the crate and check them thoroughly (photo 2). WASHER 6X18X1 No. 4 PLASTIC TIE No. 1 FRONT WHEEL SPINDLE No. 1 WHEEL SPINDLE SPACER No. 1 M12 WHEEL SPINDLE NUT No. 1 FOOTREST SPRING No. 2 TCEI SCREW M8X40 No. 2 TB SCREW M6X16 No. 4 TBEI SCREW M6X40 No. 1 NUMBER PLATE No. 1 NUMBER PLATE SPACER No. 1 RIGHT FOOTREST No. 1 LEFT FOOT REST No. 1 M8 SELF-LOCKING NUT No. 2 TCEI SCREW M8X75 No. 4 HANDLEBAR CLAMP No. 2 HANDLEBAR CLAMP SPACER No. 4 HANDLEBAR WITH FOAM ROLLNo. 1 FRONT WHEEL WITH DISK No. 1 FRONT MUDGUARD No. 1 3- Fit the rear shock-absorber, using the M10 hexagonal head screw and the two washers with the M10 nut. Fit one of the washers at the bolt side and the other at the nut side. The nut, bolt, spacers and washers have been pre-fitted in their seats on the swinging arm (photos 3). 4- Open the front brake disk pads. 5- Fit the front wheel using the special spindle; fit the spacer on the disk side of the wheel 6- Insert the spindle and the nut and tighten with a torque wrench (See section 6.2 ) (photo n.4). 1 2 3 XP65R_instructions.qxd 5-09-2007 10:45 Pagina 3
7- Tighten the spindle locking bolt with a torque wrench (See section 6.2 ) (photo 5). 8- Inflate the front and rear tyres (See section 4.12 ). 9- Fit the front mudguard with the provided 4 screws and the TBM6X16 washers (photo 6). 10- Cut the transport tie securing the front brake master cylinder. Fit the handlebar and fix it to the top fork with the two handlebar clamps and the four Allen bolts M8X75 (See section 6.2 ) (photo 7). 11- Regulate the front fork height as per photo No. 8 (see section 6.2 for tightening torque) ATTENTION! For safety reasons the front fork must be extracted within notch No. 4 (minimum) and No. 5 (maximum) (photo No. 8). 12- Remove the throttle control cover and fit the cable as shown in photo 9. Re-fit the cover. (See section 4.9 ). 13- Fit the front brake lever and secure the clamp with the provided screws 14- Fit the engine stop button and fix it to the handlebar with its mounting clamp 15- Fit the clutch lever and adjust the travel of the lever as you prefer using the regulator (photo 10) (See section 4.11 ). Fit the number plate fixing it with the related spacers and screw TBEI M6X40 and insert the front brake cable in the slide. 16- Fit the footrests (photo 11) 17- Fill the engine coolant circuit (See sections 4.5 and 4.6 ) (photo 12)

Kawasaki KVF650/ 700, KSV 700 Camshaft Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 29-04-2012

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Liberally apply assembly lube to every surface of the camshaft. Install the camshaft into the cylinder head (the lobes should be pointed down) and align the decompressor shaft dowels with the weight arms. Install one of the camshaft sprocket holder bolts and tighten to less than finger tight, you should be able to move the camshaft very slightly back and forth, roll the crank over until the other bolt hole is exposed and insert the sprocket bolt and tighten to less than finger tight. Install the cam chain tensioner assembly, do not install the spring, spring dowel, washer, and bolt. Using the spring from the cam chain tensioner very slowly push the tensioner shaft in until the cam chain slack has just been taken out, this is witnessed by the very slight lifting of the opposite end of the cam out of the cylinder head cam journal, do not over tighten the cam chain at this point, if you do, remove the tensioner assembly and retract the plunger again and start over. (If it stays too tight it will stretch the cam chain prematurely and cause cam sprocket damage when the engine is assembled) Roll the camshaft toward the back of the machine (clockwise) loading the sprocket bolts against the back of the sprocket bolt holes, while holding the camshaft in that direction, tighten the sprocket mounting bolt to 14 ft/lb of torque. Rotate the engine in the opposite direction that you rotated it earlier and align the TDC mark, tighten the other sprocket-mounting bolt to 14 ft/lb of torque. Verify the cam timing and crankshaft TDC marks are in alignment

Yamaha Road Star Forward Control Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 08-11-2010

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Before starting to assemble this forward kit on your motorcycle check the packing list to make sure that the kit you received is the correct one for your model motorcycle and that the foot pegs are the style you ordered (billet or ISO). Next check the contents hardware kit P.N.0109-1000 against the packing list for completeness. Installing The Shift Control Photo 1 Remove wires from horn. Remove the two hex head bolts (Save for later installation) that mount the OEM shift controls to your motorcycle. Unthread stock shift rod at trans shift arm, leaving OEM rod end connected to stock shift arm. Using Original Metric hardware, place a drop of Loctite #242 (blue) to the bolt threads and mount the shift control plate to the motorcycle frame, Photo 2. FORWARD CONTROL KIT PM SHIFT CONTROL ASSEMBLY Note Before torquing the shift control mounting bolts down, tighten them snug and look behind the shift control mounting plate to where it contacts the mounting lug on the frame. Make sure it fits squarely to the lug before proceeding further. Torque the two shift control mounting bolts down to 25 ft-lb. Using a 3/8″ x 1″ hex head bolt with a lock and flat washer put a drop of Loctite #242 (blue) on the threads and insert the bolt through the rear of the control mounting plate and attach the foot-peg pivot to it. Tighten the bolt while holding the footpeg pivot so that its hinge is lined up in a 45˚ rear facing angle. Thread supplied shift rod coupler to stock shift rod end at trans arm. Mount the shift pedal to the other end of the shift ro d using a 5/16″ x 1″ socket head screw and Nylocnut . Adjust the transmission shift linkage so that the shift arm on the forward controls and the shift arm on the transmission are parallel. Secure it with the jam nuts. Apply a drop of Loctite #242 (blue) to the threads under the jam nut before tightening see Photo 3 After you have assembled the shift control onto your motorcycle you must align the footpeg. The folding footpeg assembly uses a blind stud to attach the footpeg to the footpeg pivot. Shim washers (3/8″ x .015″) are used on the stud between the footpeg and the pivot, see Photo 4, so that the top surface of the footpeg is correctly aligned for your foot when it is tightened down on the pivot. This is done by setting a couple of shim washers on the footpeg mounting stud “A” and then screwing the footpeg onto the mounting stud, if the footpeg is rotated to far forward then add another shim washer, if not far enough then remove a shim washer. After you have the selected the correct number of shims for your footpeg, disassemble the footpeg and put a drop of Loctite #271 (red) on both ends of the stud and reassemble the footpeg. This will also need to be done on the brake control footpeg. Setting Up the Master Cylinder The master cylinder pushrod return spring and pushrod boot must be installed on the master cylinder before it is assembled onto the forward control mount. The parts are shown in Photo 5: pushrod boot (A), pushrod return spring (B), spring seat washer (C), and master cylinder (D). Place the return spring seat washer into bore of master cylinder so that is sits on top of the piston retaining snap ring. Next set the pushrod return spring on the seat washer and slide the pushrod boot over the return spring now slip the big end of the boot over the flange on the master cylinder so that the ridge on the inside of the boot fits into groove “A” that is machined into the end of the master cylinder flange, see Photo 6. Installing The Brake Control Unplug stock brake light switch at master cylinder. Remove brake line from rear caliper. Remove the existing brake controls from your motorcycle down to the control mounting lug that is welded on to the frame’s right side, see Photo 8. Save Metric hardware for later use. A Shim Washer PHOTO 4 A B C D PHOTO 5 A PHOTO 6 PHOTO 7 Note For complete brake system removal instructions and precau – tions refer to the appropriate service manual for your year and model motorcycle

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Pulsar XR 650R ELECTRIC-START KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Pulsar) by admin on 27-10-2010

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1. Remove the seat, fuel tank, side panels, muffler, and headers. 2. Disconnect the stator wires from their corresponding mates underneath the seat (trace the wires up from the left side case.) Un-route the stator wiring so it hangs free from the left side case. 3. Remove the stock shift lever and the left side engine case cover. You do not need to drain the oil from the engine. 4. Unbolt and remove the stator and wiring from the stock cover. Do not cut any wires. 5. The stock pulsar coil (small black box hanging from the stator) will have to be modified slightly to clear the ring gear before installation into the new cover. Remove (file or grind) about .030 inches of material from the base of the pulsar coil so that the base is flush with the face of the rest of the coil as shown in Photos 1 and 2. File Here Photo 2 Make flush with this surface Remove material here Photo 1 6. Install the stator and modified pulsar coil into the new engine case cover as shown in Photo 3. Use the three provided Phillips head bolts, split lock-washers, and plastic cable clamps to secure the wiring as shown. You will need to pull about ½” of extra wire through the grommet (Photo 4) to give you enough wire length for the grommet to sit in its case cutout. To do this, remove the electrical tape from the end of the stator wires and pull each wire individually through the grommet. Neither of the stock metal wire guides will be used when reinstalling the stator into the new case (Photo 5). 5/16″ cable clamps 1/8″ cable clamp Photo 3 Photo 5 Not Used Pull extra wire through grommet Photo 4 7. Remove the stock flywheel nut (An air impact tool works best to remove this nut without turning the motor). Remove the flywheel using the flywheel puller provided. 8. Locate the T and F marks on the stock flywheel (Photo 6). The T mark is used to adjust valve clearances and its location needs to be transferred to the ring gear. Scribe a line in the edge of the flywheel in line with the T mark as shown in Photo 7

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2009 Daytona 675 Motorcycle Race Kit Manual

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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1. Remove the existing cylinder head gasket in line with the procedures detailed in the Daytona 675 service manual. 2. Position a piece of solder (with a diameter approximately 1.3 mm) on the four squish surfaces of each piston. Position the solder in line with the corresponding squish surfaces on the cylinder head and hold in place with a small amount of grease. 3. Refit the cylinder head with the head gasket. 4. Slowly turn the engine over, by hand, to compress the solder to the same height as the squish clearance. 5. Remove the cylinder head and head gasket. 6. Measure the compressed thickness of the solder. The squish clearance must be a minimum of 0.65 mm. If the thickness of the solder is less than 0.65 mm repeat steps 2 to 6 with a thicker head gasket until the squish clearance is at an acceptable level. NOTE •In some cases, it may be necessary to use a standard cylinder head gasket to achieve the correct squish clearance. 7. Fit the chosen cylinder head gasket following the procedures detailed in the Daytona 675 service manual. Warning Running the engine at less than the minimum recommended squish height can lead to the pistons contacting the cylinder head, causing major engine damage. This could cause loss of motorcycle control and an accident. Triumph Designs Ltd 2009. Camshaft, Valve Spring & Camshaft Sprocket Kits Parts Supplied Camshaft, Inlet – A9618055 Camshaft, Exhaust – A9618056 Valve Spring Kit – A9618086 Camshaft Sprocket Kit – A9618095 Warning The Race Kit camshaft, valve Spring and camshaft sprockets must be fitted as a complete set. If they are not fitted as a complete set a failure may result which could cause loss of motorcycle control and an accident. Caution The use of The Race Kit camshaft, valve Spring and camshaft sprockets detailed below will require changes to the fuelling and ignition settings. To alter these settings, a Triumph Programmable Race ECU combined with Triumph TRACS Race Calibration Software will be required. Failure to correct the fuelling and ignition settings will result in poor engine performance and could result in engine damage.

Yamaha TTR 250 Dual Sport Kit Installation

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 31-12-2011

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1. Get a degree in Mechanical and Electrical Engineering. (Just kidding!) 2. Remove the seat, side panels, and gas tank. If you are color blind or even think you might be a little color blind, now is the time to get someone to assist you. Successful installation of the kit requires good color recognition. You want to go riding this weekend, don’t you? Photo 1 3. Unplug the yellow, blue and black taillight wires from the stock wiring harness (Photo 1). 4. Unplug the headlight from the stock wiring harness and remove. 3 Photo 2 5. Remove the headlight on/off switch. Unplug the red two pin connector with yellow and brown wires (Photo 2) from its mate that was under the fuel tank. 6. Clip the zip tie holding the headlight leads to the fork tube, coil it up and secure it to the frame in front of the voltage regulator as shown in Photos 3 and 4. Remove bracket shown in Photo 3. 4 Headlight Leads Remove this bracket Photo 3 Coil up wires and secure with a zip tie Photo 4 7. Rear Turn Signal Installation: Turn signal mounting requires that you drill a 3/8 inch hole in either side of the rear fender near where it meets the side panels. You can achieve a clean, durable installation using this mounting location. Mount the rear turn signals by drilling a 3/8 hole in the rear fender in the location shown in Photo 5 and Photo 6. Use the templates provided at the back of this instruction manual to determine the hole locations. Note that you will also be drilling a 3/16 hole on each side as well. You may find it easier to remove the fender to drill and attach the turn signals rather than performing this modification while the fender is on the bike

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