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2007 Harley-Davidson Softail Family Specifications

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 02-11-2010

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frame Mild steel tubular frame; rectangular section backbone; stamped, cast and forged junctions; forged fender supports; MIG welded Mild steel tubular frame; rectangular section backbone; stamped, cast and forged junctions; forged fender supports; MIG welded Mild steel tubular frame; rectangular section backbone; stamped, cast and forged junctions; forged fender supports; MIG welded Swingarm Mild steel, round tube sections, forged junctions, MIG welded Mild steel, round tube sections, forged junctions, MIG welded Mild steel, round tube sections, forged junctions, MIG welded Front Fork 41.3 mm telescopic, “beer can” covers 41.3 mm telescopic, “beer can” covers 41.3 mm telescopic, “beer can” covers Rear Shocks Hidden, horizontal-mounted, coil-over Hidden, horizontal-mounted, coil-over Hidden, horizontal-mounted, coil-over Caliper Type 4-piston front and rear 4-piston front and rear 4-piston front and rear Rotor Type: (diameter x width) Patented, uniform expansion rotors Patented, uniform expansion rotors Patented, uniform expansion rotors Front 292 mm x 5.08 mm 292 mm x 5.08 mm 292 mm x 5.08 mm Rear 292 mm x 5.84 mm 292 mm x 5.84 mm 292 mm x 5.84 mm Front (mm) 130 130 130 Rear (mm) 109 109 109 Engine Torque (EU standard EC95/1)5 86 ft. lb / 117 Nm @ 3200 rpm 89 ft. lb / 120 Nm @ 3300 rpm 89 ft. lb / 120 Nm @ 3300 rpm Right 29° 30° 28° Left 26° 28° 26° Battery Sealed, maintenance-free, 12V, 19-amp/hour, 270 cca (per Battery Council International Rating) Sealed, maintenance-free, 12V, 19-amp/hour, 270 cca (per Battery Council International Rating) Sealed, maintenance-free, 12V, 19-amp/hour, 270 cca (per Battery Council International Rating ) Charging Three-Phase, 38-amp system (439W @ 13V, 2000 rpm, 489W max power @ 13V) Three-Phase, 38-amp system (439W @ 13V, 2000 rpm, 489W max power @ 13V) Three-Phase, 38-amp system (439W @ 13V, 2000 rpm, 489W max power @ 13V) Starting 1.2 kW electric with solenoid shift starter motor engagement 1.2 kW electric with solenoid shift starter motor engagement 1.2 kW electric with solenoid shift starter motor engagement Headlamp Headlamp Headlamp Quartz Halogen, 55-watt low beam, 60-watt high beam Quartz Halogen, 55-watt low beam, 60-watt high beam Quartz Halogen, 55-watt low beam, 60-watt high beam Tail/Stop Lights Tail/Stop Lights Tail/Stop Lights 8W/28W (5W/21W) 8W/28W (5W/21W) 8W/28W (5W/21W) Turn Signal Lights Turn Signal Lights Turn Signal Lights 28W (21W) self-canceling 28W (21W) self-canceling 28W (21W) self-canceling Indicator Lamps Indicator Lamps Indicator Lamps High beam, neutral, low oil pressure, turn signals, engine diagnostics, security system6, 6-speed (overdrive), low fuel warnings High beam, neutral, low oil pressure, turn signals, engine diagnostics, security system6, 6- speed (overdrive), low fuel warnings High beam, neutral, low oil pressure, turn signals, engine diagnostics, security system6, 6-speed (overdrive), low fuel warnings Passing Lamps Chrome Vivid Black Vivid Black Vivid Black Black Cherry Pearl Black Cherry Pearl Black Cherry Pearl Deep Cobalt Pearl Black Pearl Black Pearl Pewter Pearl Fire Red Pearl Deep Cobalt Pearl White Gold Pearl Deep Cobalt Pearl Olive Pearl & Vivid Black Suede Blue Pearl & Vivid Black Suede Blue Pearl White Gold Pearl & Vivid Black Black Cherry Pearl & Pewter Pearl Olive Pearl White Gold Pearl & Deep Cobalt Pearl Fire Red Pearl & Black Pearl Pacific Blue Pearl Deep Cobalt Pearl & Pewter Pearl Pewter Pearl Yellow Pearl White Gold Pearl

Harley-Davidson S&S Super E and G Series Shorty Carburetors Installation and Jetting Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 24-10-2010

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throttle linkage with no cable modification. S&S Super E and G carb kits for 1936 to 1989 Big Twins contain a throttle cable guide (11-2339) designed for butterfly type throttle cables, and kits for 1990 and later Big Twins contain a taller throttle cable guide (11-2338) designed for CV type throttle cables. See Picture 2. The two throttle cable guides are interchangeable on the carburetor body, and can be changed very easily to update older carburetors or to accommodate custom throttle cables which are not stock for a particular year chassis. 1981 to Present Sportster Models Stock Sportster models from 1981 to 1987 have two cable throttle system designed for butterfly type carburetors. Sportsters from 1988 to present have a two cable throttle system designed for use with the stock constant velocity (CV) type carburetor. Since the taller #11-2338 cable guide bracket can not be used on a Sportster chassis due to insufficient frame clearance, throttle cables on Sportsters originally equipped with a CV type carburetor must be changed to butterfly style cables. S&S can supply the correct style throttle cables. See S&S Throttle Cable Application Chart. Picture 2 S&S THROTTLE CABLE APPLICATION CHART Length Total Housing Length Vinyl Housing Part Number Open Side Part Number Close Side Fitment 36″ 32″ #19-0430 #19-0431 For Buell with 7/8″ handlebars 36″ 32″ #19-0432 #19-0433 To ’95 ’81-’85 FX and FL; All ’81-’85 XL (Also pre-’81 w/2-cable throttle housing replaced.) For Buell with 1″ diameter handlebar 36″ 32″ #19-0436 #19-0437 ’96-Up 883-1200 XL 39″ 35″ #19-0434 #19-0435 To ’95 Softail (FXSTC, FXST, FLSTC, FLSTF) ’86-’94 FXR, ’93-’95 Dyna 39″ 35″ #19-0438 #19-0439 ’96-Up Softail (FXSTS, FXSTC, FLSTC, FLSTF) ’96-Up Dyna 42″ 38″ #19-0446 #19-0447 To ’95 custom application 42″ 38″ #19-0440 #19-0441 ’96-Up custom application 48″ 44″ #19-0462 #19-0463 To ’95 All FLT Models 48″ 44″ #19-0464 #19-0465 ’96-Up All FLT Models ” 1996 to Present Buells 1996 and 1997 Buells require special S&S butterfly style throttle cables for Buells, which are compatible with the stock 1996-1997 throttle assembly. 1998 and later carburated Buells require installation of stock 1996 – 97 throttle grip and the special S&S Buell style throttle cables when installing Super E or G carburetors. S&S Throttle Kits S&S throttle kits fit 1″ handlebars and can be used on most chassis. (An adapter sleeve is available for use with earlier, 7 ⁄ 8 ” OEM handlebars originally equipped with internal throttle cable.) Barrel fittings on S&S cables readily “plug in” to S&S Super E, G, and stock H-D 1981-’90 butterfly type carb throttle linkage. Kits include one opening and one closing side cable, left and right grips, and handlebar clamps. Kits with 36″, 39″, 42″, or 48″ length cables are available. Length specified refers to overall cable length. Vinyl covered outer housing is 4″ shorter than overall length

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Victory Freedom Engines Installation Instructions for S&S Air Cleaner Kit

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Filed Under (Victory) by admin on 31-10-2010

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1-Locate and remove the Intake Air Temperature Sensor (IATS) from the stock Polaris Victory air box. Locate the new position for the IATS on the bottom of the S&S air cleaner. Push the IATS in the lower air cleaner cover and turn1⁄ 4 turnin either direction, make sure you feel it lock into place. Inspect from the inside of the air cleaner to ensure that the barbs are locked into place. See Picture 1. 2-Using the stock Polaris Victory air box gasket (PN 5811908) and S&S supplied (Qty 4) M6 fasteners, assemble the lower air cleaner cover to the throttle body using 243 Blue Loctite®on the treads. Torque the M6 fasteners to 72-96 inch pounds. 3-Position the S&S pre-formed air filter onto the lower air cleaner cover ensuring that it fits into the machined groove. 4-Install the top air cleaner cover on top of the filter ensuring that it fits into the machined groove. 5-Make surethat the filter is situated in the machined grooves on both the top and bottom air cleaner covers. 6-Using 243 Blue Loctite on the threads of the S&S supplied (Qty 3) M6 fasteners tighten down top air cleaner cover evenly until seated. Finish torque the fasteners to 72-96 inch pounds. Now you’re ready for breather hose and barometric pressure hose routing. 7-Locate the S&S supplied 3⁄ 16 “reinforced hose and clamps. Push one end of the hose on the 3⁄ 16 “brass barb in the bottom air cleaner cover and slide clamp up around the end of the hose. The other end of the hose is for the Barometric Pressure Sensor (MAP). Route the hose towardthe back of the engine over the top of the rear rocker cover. 8-Remove the MAP sensor from the stock Polaris Victory air box. Remove the orange rubber gasket from the MAP sensor. Slide the S&S supplied clamp over the 3⁄ 16 “rubber hose that leads to the air cleaner. Push the barbed end of the MAP sensor into the 3⁄ 16 ” rubber hose and slide clamp up to the end of the hose around the barb. A small amount of lubricant may be applied to the barb on the MAP sensor to make installation easier. 2 S&S Air Cleaner Assembly 41-0021 (Calibration cardnot shown) Picture 1 CAUTION WARNING WARNING Plastic barb locked in recess.
9-Assemble and install breather hose as follows: A-Cut the stock Victory®hose on the straight section just behind the 90 degree bend as shown in Picture 2 . B-Slide an S&S supplied 1⁄ 2 “hose clamp over the modified stock breather hose. C-Install the S&S straight barb in Victory breather hose and position a hose clamp around hose end. D-Slide the 90-degree end of breather hose over the brass barb on the air cleaner cover and slide hose clamp in place. E-Position straight end of the S&S breather hose over the 1⁄ 2 “barb to connect to the Victory hose. Slide clamp over connection. F- See Pictures 3 and 4 for breather hose and barometric pressuresensor hose installation positions. NOTE: S&S breather hose can be cut for best fit

INSTRUCTIONS ON HOW TO R & R YOUR Swingarm

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 12-12-2010

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• Upgrade Your Pre- 2002 FL Or FXR Rear Fork & Get Rid Of The Crappy & Dangerous (Cleve Blocks) & Replace Them With A Stable System. • R & R your Swing Arm, Belt Drive, Swing Arm Pivot Shaft, and Rear Wheel. The paragraphs below are a photo journey into the replacement of a FL or FXR swing arm. To upgrade the pre 2002 FL, here is a How-To on cheaply replacing the poor parts Harley stuck you with. Now – Let’s Get Er’ Done • Pre- 2002 had weak swing arms and are known to fail. The cleve blocks are the cause of “Rear Steer” or “Rear Fork Deflection”. Harley came up with a patch in 2002, using bearings. Because the pre 2002 transmissions have a 5/8″ mounting hole for the 5/8″ swing arm pivot shaft, a conversion unit has been made. No transmission removal for boring is necessary. Under no circumstances, do I recommend drilling out the transmission case with a hand drill. The drill will “wander” (drift)! • Solution: Go to either a trike shop/manufacturer, e-Bay, or shop and buy a new style swingarm. Harley made an additional upgrade in 2007, try and buy this type 2007 & above). If upgrading to a 2008, Harley use 25mm (smaller than 1″) axles & wheel bearings, you will have to use 25mm bearings. With that said, let’s get on with it. • In the case of a 2007 swingarm; buy and do not pay over $40 for the swing arm and axle. You must use the corresponding axle as a ¾” axle set-up is different (along with wheel bearings & spacers). You positively can not use a pre -2002 HD stock wheel because the wheel bearing spacer will fit into the wheel. Buy 2002 & above style wheels as they (9 spoke) are cheep. • You are going to have to either bore out your stock rear caliper bracket or better still, upgrade your whole rear brake to the new model & sell yours on e-Bay. • I recommend doing the following before hand and have it ready for installation; Remove bearings et al. from the 2002 & later swing arm via press. Bike Work: • Jack up your bike using a center jack. Secure the bike so it will not fall over. You can also use a motorcycle jack. I use a motorcycle dolly

1990 Harley Davidson ULTIMA 6 SPEED BUILDERS KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 09-04-2012

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For 2000 & later models removal of approximately 1/4 of an inch off of the shifter arm bushing is likely required. Doing so will allow installation of the retaining clip & washer onto the shifter arm. It is good practice to double check how much material should be removed before cutting the bushing. See fig. 1 & 2 Install supplied Main drive gear bearings & countershaft needle bearings using special tool # 97-164 NOTE: Lightly coat bearings with assembly lube or gear oil for easier installation. Install supplied Main drive gear retaining clip & verify that it is fully seated and cannot come out. Do not re-use old bearings or retaining clip. Install supplied Main drive gear into bearings using special tool # 97-166 See fig. 3 Install supplied trap door gasket & verify that it is on correctly. Install supplied 6 speed gear set making sure to align the countershaft with the needle bearing assembly. Slowly slide in gear set until the mainshaft & countershaft will not slide in any further. Lightly tapping on the trap door (while verifying that there is no interference) with a soft blow hammer will then fully seat the shafts & trap door. See fig. 4 Once gear set is installed use the supplied 5/16-18×1-1/2 & 1/4-20×1-1/2 bolts to secure the trap door. Torque the 5/16 bolts to 15 ft-lbs w/ red loctite (high strength) Torque the 1/4 bolts to 9 ft-lbs w/ red loctite (high strength) See fig. 5 FIG. 1 FIG. 2 FIG. 3 FIG. 4 FIG. 5 2 FIG. 6 At this time check to make sure all gears rotate freely & that all slider gears slide with no interference. Lightly lube & install supplied quad seal onto main drive gear. See fig. 6 Install Main seal using special tool # 97-164. See fig. 7 Install original spacer onto mainshaft. NOTE: Beveled side goes in towards quad seal. See fig. 8 Install supplied transmission drain plug & supplied speedo sensor plug with gasket. Install supplied shifter forks onto appropriate slider gears. See fig. 9 Lightly lube & install supplied shift fork shafts. NOTE: Short shaft is installed from the right side with the threaded hole facing out. Long shaft is installed from the left side & should not protrude from the right side of case. See fig. 10 Install supplied shift fork shaft allen head plugs. (Use red loctite to prevent movement of plug & to aid in sealing)

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THUNDERJET INSTALLATION FIXTURE for S&S CARBURETORS

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Filed Under (S&S) by admin on 31-10-2010

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FUEL DELIVERY TUBE 6 5 6 5 6 5 6 5 -A Ambe -A Ambe r rton Drive, Elkridg e, MD 21075 410-579-2828 e, MD 21075 410-579-2828 ton Drive, Elkridg Using the two ¼”- 20 cap screws provided, secure t carb body at air cleaner surface to fixture through h # 2 & 5 . NOTE: Holes # 2 & 6 may be used to angle th ThunderJe clearance is needed below the fuel tank. he oles e t farther forward if additional ADJUSTABLE AIR BLEED les # RIGINAL AIR Secure Carb to fixture using ho & 8. 1 O LEED B BLOCKING Secure C fixture using ho & 6. arb to les # 1 BOWL VENT RELOCATION Secure Carb to fixture using holes # 6 & 7 . FLOAT BOWL ee Reverse side for S&S ‘B’ & ‘D’ Secure float bowl to fixture using the 3/8″- 16 flange nut and threaded rod provided using the 20 degree slope. S instructions. S&S ‘B’ & ‘D’ CARBS EXTERNAL BOWL VENT 6 5 6 5 6 5 6 5 -A Amberton Drive, Elkridge, MD 21075 410-579-2828 -A Amberton Drive, Elkridge, MD 21075 410-579-2828  ADJUSTABLE AIR BLEED THUNDERJET FUEL TUBE :00 position, viewed facing air filter (9 surface) sing the two #10-24 cap screws provided, :00 position, viewed facing air filter U secure the Carb body at bowl surface to fixture through the two holes marked ‘B’ . (3 surface) Using the two #10-24 cap screws provided, FLOAT BOWL secure the Carb body at bowl surface to fixture through the two holes marked ‘D

ULTIMA 6 SPEED BUILDERS KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 03-03-2011

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DISASSEMBLY For 5 speed gear set removal refer to your factory service manual. You willneed to remove the main drive gear, main drive gear bearings, retaining clip & countershaft needle bearings. NOTE: Removal of the shifter arm is notnecessary for 99 & earlier transmissions. NOTE: Removal of the shifter arm isnecessary for 2000 & later transmissions. After trans. housing is disassembled thoroughly clean & inspect. ASSEMBLY For 2000 & later models removal of approximately 1/4 of an inch off of the shifter arm bushing is likely required. Doing so will allow installation of the retaining clip & washer onto the shifter arm. It is good practice to double check how much material should be removed before cutting the bushing. See fig. 1 & 2 Install supplied Main drive gear bearings & countershaft needle bearings using special tool # 97-164 NOTE: Lightly coat bearings with assembly lube or gear oil for easier installation. Install supplied Main drive gear retaining clip & verify that it is fully seated and cannot come out. Do not re-use old bearings or retaining clip. Install supplied Main drive gear into bearings using special tool # 97-166 See fig. 3 Install supplied trap door gasket & verify that it is on correctly. Install supplied 6 speed gear set making sure to align the countershaft with the needle bearing assembly. Slowly slide in gear set until the mainshaft & countershaft will not slide in any further. Lightly tapping on the trap door (while verifying that there is no interference) with a soft blow hammer will then fully seat the shafts & trap door. See fig. 4 Once gear set is installed use the supplied 5/16-18×1-1/2 & 1/4-20×1-1/2 bolts to secure the trap door. Torque the 5/16 bolts to 15 ft-lbs w/ red loctite (high strength) Torque the 1/4 bolts to 9 ft-lbs w/ red loctite (high strength) See fig. 5

CSS/ CSR Separator, Recovery Tank, Purge Valve, CYC Timer & Pump INSTALLATION & OPERATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (CSR) by admin on 27-10-2010

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1.*The*CSS/CSR*system*skid*should*be*bolted*to*a*flat*&*level*concrete*foundation*with*suitably*sized*and*quantity*of*anchor*bolts.* The entire system (1″-6″) is on a single skid. For systems 8″ and larger, the separator stands alone on its own 3 legs, while the pump/motor, recovery tank (CSR only), and control panel are on an individual skid. It is therefore incumbent upon the installer to insure*that*the*complete*package*is*bolted*to*a*flat*&*level*concrete*foundation,*to*insure*that*the*”piping*assembly”*is*installed* without any undue stress. 2. Inspect and hydrotest all pipe connections for leaks. *All*flanged*connections*must*have*gaskets,*and*all*threaded*connections*must*have*Teflon*tape*or*anti-seize*coating. 4. Flush all new pipe construction before system operation. In the absence of a pump strainer basket, use a y-strainer with 1/4″ perforated*screen.**The*perforated*screen*must*be*at*least*the*same*size*or*one*pipe*size*larger*than*the*pump*suction.**The* perforated screen will block out larger debris such as welding rods, tools, rugs, gloves, etc. ELECTRICAL 1. Voltage supply to the system must be the same as the voltage indicated on the control panel. 2. Follow the pump operating instructions prior to start-up. 3.*Turn*the*motor*”ON”*and*check*rotation.**Rotation*must*turn*in*the*same*direction*as*the*arrow*located*on*the*pump* casing. If pump is rotating in the opposite direction then reverse L1 and L2 on the incoming power to the panel. Recheck rotation. 4. Starting or in-rush current should not exceed 3 seconds, running current should be equal to or less than nameplate full load amps (FLA). 5. Thermal Overload Setting 5a. Select the Operating Voltage 5b. Multiply Motor Service Factor (SF) by the Full Load Amps (FLA) to get the Service Factor Amps (SFA). 5c. Adjust the Thermal Overload Dial to match SFA Note: Some motors come with SFA written on the nameplate. The majority of our motors come with a 1.15 service factor, but very few come with a 1.25 SF. STARTUP 1. Open system inlet valve 100% and outlet valve 50% (supplied by others). 2.*Suction*line*must*be*flooded. 3. Open separator air vent located near the outlet, (standard on 2″ and larger). 4.*Turn*the*system*”ON.” 5. Purge all the air. 6.*For*HH*&*SP*systems,*open*outlet*valve*until*the*gauge*reads*35psi.*For*LH*systems,*open*outlet*valve*until*a*100%* opening*is*achieved.**If*system*begins*to*vibrate,*then*slightly*close*separator*outlet*until*it*stabilizes

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S&S 106" Stroker Hot Set Up Kit For Victory Freedom Engines

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Filed Under (Victory) by admin on 12-11-2010

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Follow the Transmission & Crankshaft section of your Victory motorcycle service manual for disassembling your Victory engine. 2-Your new S&S crankshaft and connecting rods will require assembly. S&S connecting rods aremachined to use the Orange Victory® rod bearings that are included in the kit (Bearing P/N 3514390-159). Perform rod bearing clearance inspection as follows: A-Wash or clean all of the following components: crankshaft crankpin, rods and rod bores, bearing inserts. B-Place a strip of Plastigauge®across the width of the crankpin. NOTE: Green Plastigauge (.001-.003″) is commonly used for this procedure, it can be purchased at the local automotive parts store. Do not place Plastigauge across oil holes. Be careful not to allow the rods to move during the rest of the inspection procedure. C-Mark the rod and cap at the separation line with a Sharpie®, Dykem®, or permanent marker to prevent rod caps from getting swapped from their original rod during the inspection and assembly process. See Picture2. Picture 1 S&S Crankshaft & Connecting Rods NOTE: Bearings not shown. 3 Picture 2 WARNING
D-Install connecting rods and bearing caps in the same order they were received. E-Torque rod bolts to 5 ft-lbs to seat caps. Then final torque bolts to 40 ft-lbs. F-Remove bearing caps carefully to prevent disturbing the Plastigauge®. G-Measure the widest part of the crushed Plastigauge to determine the rod bearing clearance. Do so by using the bands provided on the Plastigauge label. See Picture 3. H-Specification for oil clearance is: .00091″-.00279″ l If the resultant clearance is less than this specification, the bearings will need to be replaced with the thinner black color coded bearings, not available through S&S (Victory®P/N 3514390-067). l If the resultant clearance is greater than the specification, the bearings will need to be replaced with the thicker blue color coded bearings, not available through S&S (VictoryP/N 3514390-027). l If clearance is not within specification, clean old Plastigauge off components and reassemble rods to crankpin with a new strip of Plastigauge and the thinner or thicker bearings as determined above

MULTI-APPLICATION AIR HORN INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 27-10-2010

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COMPRESSOR MOUNTING: Find a suitable location to mount the compressor. Under the seat, fuel tank or one of the side covers is the most concealed place. Mount the compressor using the supplied large hose clamp, long cable ties or bolt & nut. NOTE: Keep the compressor terminals pointing downward or horizontal. Locate and area that will be protected from water & dirt. Attach air hose to compressor. HORN MOUNTING: Mount horns to the frame or engine guards only. The most common place is the left front frame down – tube, below the fuel tank using the “L” bracket with the hose clamp routed through the slots. (See photos 2 & 3) If necessary you can bend or twist the bracket using a vise or two adjustable wrenches. Horns should be horizontal or slightly downward. They may be mounted on the right side by reversing the long and short trumpet. Flipping the bracket that mounts to the horns 180 degrees can do this. Route the hose from the compressor to the horns, cut to length & attach. Spraying WD-40 to the end of the hose helps ease assembly. Use a small flame to heat seal the hose outer braided cover to keep from fraying. WIRING: (see photo 1 & the wiring diagram) when mounting the relay be sure the terminals are pointed downward. Remove wires from the stock horn & attach to relay terminals 85 & 86. Find an inconspicuous place to mount the relay. Attach using supplied cable tie being sure the terminals are downward. Refer to diagram & make connections as shown using the supplied wire & terminals. Route wire neatly & wire neatly & where possible hidden. Cable tie the wire to secure. Turn on ignition & push horn button to test. HELPFUL HINTS: When routing wire or hose under fuel tank or difficult to reach place use a stiff piece of wire such as a coat hanger about 3′ or 4′ long for a helpful tool. Bend a small loop at one end. Push wire tool through, attach wire or house with tape and pull back through