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HI-4 DUAL FIRE MOTORCYCLE IGNITION INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-11-2010

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Turn ignition switch off and disconnect battery ground cable. 2. Refer to Figure 3. Remove OE ignition module and wire harness (items 1-4). You will disconnect two wires at the coil (15), a wire going to the VOES (Vacuum Operated Electrical Switch) (18), a black ground wire at the ignition module, and the 3 pin plug (20) that connects to the sensor plate (11). Refer to shop manual for locations. 3. Remove ignition cover plates and gasket (items 5- 9). This will require drilling out two rivets. The rivets will later be replaced with two supplied self- threading screws. 4. In order to remove the sensor plate cable, the cable plug (20) must be removed first. Use needle nose pliers to pull the terminals out of the plug. Then pull the cable through the exit hole at the bottom of the timing cover. 5. Note location of sensor plate (11). There is a V notch in the sensor plate used for alignment. When you install the HI-4, you should align the V notch in the same location. This should set the timing close enough to start the engine. Remove and save the two standoffs and washers (10). Remove the sensor plate (11). HI-4 INSTALLATION Refer to Figure 4. The HI-4 requires use of the OE timing rotor P/N 32402-83 (used only on 1985 and newer models). If you have an older model or are not sure, check the rotor (9) for the correct part number. For models prior to 1980, use the supplied 10-32 x ¾”bolt and washer to mount the rotor. 1. Install the HI-4 system in place of the OE breaker or sensor plate. Rotate the HI-4 about 90 degrees to give better access to the cable exit hole. Install the HI-4 first, then push the cable through the hole. On some early models it may be necessary to enlarge the wire harness exit hole in the gear cover. Align the V notch on the HI-4 same as the OE plate you removed. Use the OE standoffs to secure the HI-4. You must use lockwashers under the standoffs for proper clearance between the HI-4 and cover plate. Do not fully tighten the standoffs until the timing has been set. 2. Route the HI-4 wire harness along the frame rails up to the coil. Make sure that harness will not be chafed or burned by exhaust heat. Secure harness with tie wraps. Do not install timing cover. HI-4 HOOKUP Crimp terminals and hardware are supplied for your convenience. Use the ring terminals for coil hookup. Use male-female quick disconnects for connections to the tach and vacuum switch (VOES). Tape up any unused wires. 1. Circuit Breaker Cover Screws (2) 2. Circuit Breaker Cover 3. Circuit Breaker Cover Gasket 4. Breaker Plate Screws (2) 5. Breaker Plate Screw Lockwashers & Washers (2 each) 6. Retainer (1971 to early 1972) 7. Circuit Breaker Cam Bolt 8. Breaker Plate Assembly 9. Breaker Cam 10. Advance Assembly 11. Gear Case Cover 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 NOTE: Damage will result if the brown tach wire comes in contact with +12V. Figure 1. Harley-Davidson®OE Points System
9000-4002A REV A 3 2/05 1. Identify switched +12 volt wire and tach wire (if equipped) going to the coil. Refer to your service manual, or reconnect the battery and use a test light or voltmeter. The switched +12 volt wire will be hot when the ignition key is turned on. 2. Refer to Figure 5. Connect the HI-4 red wire and switched +12 volt wire to Coil positive. 3. The HI-4 white wire is not used and should be taped. 4. Connect the HI-4 black wire to the Coil negative terminal. 5. Connect the HI-4 green wire to the vacuum switch (Figure 3, item 18), if used. 6. Connect the HI-4 brown wire to the tach wire, if equipped with tach. Tape up if unused. 7. The HI-4 is grounded via the timing housing; a separate ground connection is not required. 8. Reconnect battery ground cable. Verify proper ground connections to the frame and engine. VOES HOOKUP The OE vacuum switch (VOES) is normally an open circuit. Above 3-5 inch-Hg vacuum, the VOES closes and grounds the vacuum input on the OE ignition module. This increases the total advance generated by the OE ignition module. Vacuum advance improves part throttle 17 16 1. Cover Screws (2) 2. Ignition Timer Cover 3. Ignition Module 4. Timer Plate Screws (2) 5. Washers (2) 6. Screws & Washers (2 each) 7. Shield 8. Sensor 9. Trigger Rotor Bolt 10. Timer Plate 11. Trigger Rotor 12. Advance Assembly 13. Gear Case Cover 14. Ignition Coil 15. Spark Plug Wires (2) 16. Ignition Coil Terminal (FX) 17. Ignition Coil Terminal (FL) 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 NOTE: Most motorcycle coils do not have terminals marked. Use either terminal for Coil+ (positive) and the other one for Coil- (negative). Warning: The HI-4 (8-1100) Dual Fire ignition will not work with 2 plugs per head, dual coil application. Damage will result if attempted. Use the HI-4 (8-2100) single fire ignition for 2 plugs per head applications

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1990 Harley Davidson ULTIMA 6 SPEED BUILDERS KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 09-04-2012

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For 2000 & later models removal of approximately 1/4 of an inch off of the shifter arm bushing is likely required. Doing so will allow installation of the retaining clip & washer onto the shifter arm. It is good practice to double check how much material should be removed before cutting the bushing. See fig. 1 & 2 Install supplied Main drive gear bearings & countershaft needle bearings using special tool # 97-164 NOTE: Lightly coat bearings with assembly lube or gear oil for easier installation. Install supplied Main drive gear retaining clip & verify that it is fully seated and cannot come out. Do not re-use old bearings or retaining clip. Install supplied Main drive gear into bearings using special tool # 97-166 See fig. 3 Install supplied trap door gasket & verify that it is on correctly. Install supplied 6 speed gear set making sure to align the countershaft with the needle bearing assembly. Slowly slide in gear set until the mainshaft & countershaft will not slide in any further. Lightly tapping on the trap door (while verifying that there is no interference) with a soft blow hammer will then fully seat the shafts & trap door. See fig. 4 Once gear set is installed use the supplied 5/16-18×1-1/2 & 1/4-20×1-1/2 bolts to secure the trap door. Torque the 5/16 bolts to 15 ft-lbs w/ red loctite (high strength) Torque the 1/4 bolts to 9 ft-lbs w/ red loctite (high strength) See fig. 5 FIG. 1 FIG. 2 FIG. 3 FIG. 4 FIG. 5 2 FIG. 6 At this time check to make sure all gears rotate freely & that all slider gears slide with no interference. Lightly lube & install supplied quad seal onto main drive gear. See fig. 6 Install Main seal using special tool # 97-164. See fig. 7 Install original spacer onto mainshaft. NOTE: Beveled side goes in towards quad seal. See fig. 8 Install supplied transmission drain plug & supplied speedo sensor plug with gasket. Install supplied shifter forks onto appropriate slider gears. See fig. 9 Lightly lube & install supplied shift fork shafts. NOTE: Short shaft is installed from the right side with the threaded hole facing out. Long shaft is installed from the left side & should not protrude from the right side of case. See fig. 10 Install supplied shift fork shaft allen head plugs. (Use red loctite to prevent movement of plug & to aid in sealing)

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Harley-Davidson S&S Super E and G Series Shorty Carburetors Installation and Jetting Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 24-10-2010

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throttle linkage with no cable modification. S&S Super E and G carb kits for 1936 to 1989 Big Twins contain a throttle cable guide (11-2339) designed for butterfly type throttle cables, and kits for 1990 and later Big Twins contain a taller throttle cable guide (11-2338) designed for CV type throttle cables. See Picture 2. The two throttle cable guides are interchangeable on the carburetor body, and can be changed very easily to update older carburetors or to accommodate custom throttle cables which are not stock for a particular year chassis. 1981 to Present Sportster Models Stock Sportster models from 1981 to 1987 have two cable throttle system designed for butterfly type carburetors. Sportsters from 1988 to present have a two cable throttle system designed for use with the stock constant velocity (CV) type carburetor. Since the taller #11-2338 cable guide bracket can not be used on a Sportster chassis due to insufficient frame clearance, throttle cables on Sportsters originally equipped with a CV type carburetor must be changed to butterfly style cables. S&S can supply the correct style throttle cables. See S&S Throttle Cable Application Chart. Picture 2 S&S THROTTLE CABLE APPLICATION CHART Length Total Housing Length Vinyl Housing Part Number Open Side Part Number Close Side Fitment 36″ 32″ #19-0430 #19-0431 For Buell with 7/8″ handlebars 36″ 32″ #19-0432 #19-0433 To ’95 ’81-’85 FX and FL; All ’81-’85 XL (Also pre-’81 w/2-cable throttle housing replaced.) For Buell with 1″ diameter handlebar 36″ 32″ #19-0436 #19-0437 ’96-Up 883-1200 XL 39″ 35″ #19-0434 #19-0435 To ’95 Softail (FXSTC, FXST, FLSTC, FLSTF) ’86-’94 FXR, ’93-’95 Dyna 39″ 35″ #19-0438 #19-0439 ’96-Up Softail (FXSTS, FXSTC, FLSTC, FLSTF) ’96-Up Dyna 42″ 38″ #19-0446 #19-0447 To ’95 custom application 42″ 38″ #19-0440 #19-0441 ’96-Up custom application 48″ 44″ #19-0462 #19-0463 To ’95 All FLT Models 48″ 44″ #19-0464 #19-0465 ’96-Up All FLT Models ” 1996 to Present Buells 1996 and 1997 Buells require special S&S butterfly style throttle cables for Buells, which are compatible with the stock 1996-1997 throttle assembly. 1998 and later carburated Buells require installation of stock 1996 – 97 throttle grip and the special S&S Buell style throttle cables when installing Super E or G carburetors. S&S Throttle Kits S&S throttle kits fit 1″ handlebars and can be used on most chassis. (An adapter sleeve is available for use with earlier, 7 ⁄ 8 ” OEM handlebars originally equipped with internal throttle cable.) Barrel fittings on S&S cables readily “plug in” to S&S Super E, G, and stock H-D 1981-’90 butterfly type carb throttle linkage. Kits include one opening and one closing side cable, left and right grips, and handlebar clamps. Kits with 36″, 39″, 42″, or 48″ length cables are available. Length specified refers to overall cable length. Vinyl covered outer housing is 4″ shorter than overall length

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INSTRUCTIONS ON HOW TO R & R YOUR Swingarm

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 12-12-2010

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• Upgrade Your Pre- 2002 FL Or FXR Rear Fork & Get Rid Of The Crappy & Dangerous (Cleve Blocks) & Replace Them With A Stable System. • R & R your Swing Arm, Belt Drive, Swing Arm Pivot Shaft, and Rear Wheel. The paragraphs below are a photo journey into the replacement of a FL or FXR swing arm. To upgrade the pre 2002 FL, here is a How-To on cheaply replacing the poor parts Harley stuck you with. Now – Let’s Get Er’ Done • Pre- 2002 had weak swing arms and are known to fail. The cleve blocks are the cause of “Rear Steer” or “Rear Fork Deflection”. Harley came up with a patch in 2002, using bearings. Because the pre 2002 transmissions have a 5/8″ mounting hole for the 5/8″ swing arm pivot shaft, a conversion unit has been made. No transmission removal for boring is necessary. Under no circumstances, do I recommend drilling out the transmission case with a hand drill. The drill will “wander” (drift)! • Solution: Go to either a trike shop/manufacturer, e-Bay, or shop and buy a new style swingarm. Harley made an additional upgrade in 2007, try and buy this type 2007 & above). If upgrading to a 2008, Harley use 25mm (smaller than 1″) axles & wheel bearings, you will have to use 25mm bearings. With that said, let’s get on with it. • In the case of a 2007 swingarm; buy and do not pay over $40 for the swing arm and axle. You must use the corresponding axle as a ¾” axle set-up is different (along with wheel bearings & spacers). You positively can not use a pre -2002 HD stock wheel because the wheel bearing spacer will fit into the wheel. Buy 2002 & above style wheels as they (9 spoke) are cheep. • You are going to have to either bore out your stock rear caliper bracket or better still, upgrade your whole rear brake to the new model & sell yours on e-Bay. • I recommend doing the following before hand and have it ready for installation; Remove bearings et al. from the 2002 & later swing arm via press. Bike Work: • Jack up your bike using a center jack. Secure the bike so it will not fall over. You can also use a motorcycle jack. I use a motorcycle dolly

Harley-Davidson Electronic Ignition Module Installation instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 23-04-2012

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Step 1: Switch main dashboard switch to “off” position (Ignition& light switch) Step 2: Disconnect negative (ground) cable from the Battery Step 3: Remove the Condenser and Breaker points from the circuit breaker timing base. Step 4: Disconnect advance/ retard cable from timing base Step 5: Remove timing base from timer shaft and housing (see your manual for instructions) Step 6: Remove circuit breaker wire stud or circuit breaker to coil wire assembly from timing base Step 7: Remove circuit breaker wire from Ignition coil, and mark terminal on coil with piece of tape. Step 8: Install the Electronic Ignition Module on the timing base. Mount this short black wire to one on the timer base screws by keeping some slack in this wire so the timing base can turn free. Solder the flag terminal to this short black wire and mount it under the timer to motor bolt. This way of mounting provides a much better grounding. Do NOT use the screws (number 1 or 2 screws from picture below) from the timing base!!!! Step 9: Now three wires pass this hole via the rubber grommet. Figure 1 Figure 2 Step 10: Reinstall the timer base on the timer shaft housing, and keep some slack in the wires before protruding the hole in the timer shaft housing, and secure with ground spring and cover retainer. Reconnect the advance/retard cable to the timer base. Step 11: Route the two long wires to the ignition coil. Check in the HD service manual for a proper route to the ignition coil. (Keep away from hot surfaces like exhaust systems). Cut the wires to the exact length necessary for mounting. Step 12: Determine the exact length of the wire loom. Keep in mind that one end of the loom enters the timer shaft housing by 1cm. Cut the loom to the proper length. Step 13: Insert both wires in the loom. Strip both wire ends and solder the two flag terminals on the wires. Step 14: Connect the red wire to the ignition coil, on the terminal where the 6 or 12 volt is supplied to. This terminal has at minimum one wire connected which runs to the main switch. Step 15: Connect the black wire to the ignition coil on the terminal which is empty, and has piece of tape on it. (Old place where the circuit breaker wire was connected to) Step 16: Install the trigger rotor on the timer shaft cam, and tighten the hex screw by using the hex key tool. Do not over tighten the screw! Step 17: Check for clearance between trigger rotor and Electronic Ignition Module. Appropriate clearance is between 0,5mm and 1,5mm . Minor adjustments can be made by unlocking the two screws and slightly shift/move the Electronic Ignition Module. Check if the rotor moves free. Timing instructions: Remove the spark plugs from the engine, but keep them connected to the spark coil cables and engine ground. This enables normal operation of the spark, and prevents unwanted engine firing on compression stroke. See service manual or handbook for timing instructions of your model Step 18: Reconnect the negative (ground) cable to the battery. Step 19: Switch main power to “on” position. The red light in the Electronic Ignition Module might already light up. If not, turn the kick starter slowly. The red light is on while charging (closed points)the Ignition coil, facing solid metal of the trigger rotor. The light goes off (open points) when the end of the solid surface of the trigger rotor passes the centre of the Electronic Ignition Module. At that point a spark is generated by the coil

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2007 Harley-Davidson Softail Family Specifications

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 02-11-2010

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frame Mild steel tubular frame; rectangular section backbone; stamped, cast and forged junctions; forged fender supports; MIG welded Mild steel tubular frame; rectangular section backbone; stamped, cast and forged junctions; forged fender supports; MIG welded Mild steel tubular frame; rectangular section backbone; stamped, cast and forged junctions; forged fender supports; MIG welded Swingarm Mild steel, round tube sections, forged junctions, MIG welded Mild steel, round tube sections, forged junctions, MIG welded Mild steel, round tube sections, forged junctions, MIG welded Front Fork 41.3 mm telescopic, “beer can” covers 41.3 mm telescopic, “beer can” covers 41.3 mm telescopic, “beer can” covers Rear Shocks Hidden, horizontal-mounted, coil-over Hidden, horizontal-mounted, coil-over Hidden, horizontal-mounted, coil-over Caliper Type 4-piston front and rear 4-piston front and rear 4-piston front and rear Rotor Type: (diameter x width) Patented, uniform expansion rotors Patented, uniform expansion rotors Patented, uniform expansion rotors Front 292 mm x 5.08 mm 292 mm x 5.08 mm 292 mm x 5.08 mm Rear 292 mm x 5.84 mm 292 mm x 5.84 mm 292 mm x 5.84 mm Front (mm) 130 130 130 Rear (mm) 109 109 109 Engine Torque (EU standard EC95/1)5 86 ft. lb / 117 Nm @ 3200 rpm 89 ft. lb / 120 Nm @ 3300 rpm 89 ft. lb / 120 Nm @ 3300 rpm Right 29° 30° 28° Left 26° 28° 26° Battery Sealed, maintenance-free, 12V, 19-amp/hour, 270 cca (per Battery Council International Rating) Sealed, maintenance-free, 12V, 19-amp/hour, 270 cca (per Battery Council International Rating) Sealed, maintenance-free, 12V, 19-amp/hour, 270 cca (per Battery Council International Rating ) Charging Three-Phase, 38-amp system (439W @ 13V, 2000 rpm, 489W max power @ 13V) Three-Phase, 38-amp system (439W @ 13V, 2000 rpm, 489W max power @ 13V) Three-Phase, 38-amp system (439W @ 13V, 2000 rpm, 489W max power @ 13V) Starting 1.2 kW electric with solenoid shift starter motor engagement 1.2 kW electric with solenoid shift starter motor engagement 1.2 kW electric with solenoid shift starter motor engagement Headlamp Headlamp Headlamp Quartz Halogen, 55-watt low beam, 60-watt high beam Quartz Halogen, 55-watt low beam, 60-watt high beam Quartz Halogen, 55-watt low beam, 60-watt high beam Tail/Stop Lights Tail/Stop Lights Tail/Stop Lights 8W/28W (5W/21W) 8W/28W (5W/21W) 8W/28W (5W/21W) Turn Signal Lights Turn Signal Lights Turn Signal Lights 28W (21W) self-canceling 28W (21W) self-canceling 28W (21W) self-canceling Indicator Lamps Indicator Lamps Indicator Lamps High beam, neutral, low oil pressure, turn signals, engine diagnostics, security system6, 6-speed (overdrive), low fuel warnings High beam, neutral, low oil pressure, turn signals, engine diagnostics, security system6, 6- speed (overdrive), low fuel warnings High beam, neutral, low oil pressure, turn signals, engine diagnostics, security system6, 6-speed (overdrive), low fuel warnings Passing Lamps Chrome Vivid Black Vivid Black Vivid Black Black Cherry Pearl Black Cherry Pearl Black Cherry Pearl Deep Cobalt Pearl Black Pearl Black Pearl Pewter Pearl Fire Red Pearl Deep Cobalt Pearl White Gold Pearl Deep Cobalt Pearl Olive Pearl & Vivid Black Suede Blue Pearl & Vivid Black Suede Blue Pearl White Gold Pearl & Vivid Black Black Cherry Pearl & Pewter Pearl Olive Pearl White Gold Pearl & Deep Cobalt Pearl Fire Red Pearl & Black Pearl Pacific Blue Pearl Deep Cobalt Pearl & Pewter Pearl Pewter Pearl Yellow Pearl White Gold Pearl

1994 HARLEY DAVIDSON FXD (DYNA) PASSENGER FLOOR BOARDS AND RELOCATION ARMS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 01-04-2012

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1. Beginning on the RIGHT side, use a 9/16″ wrench to remove the bolt from the back of the passenger peg mount. Remove entire peg assembly. 2. Remove the new floorboards and mounts from their packaging. Notice the Left and Right markings on the backside of the floorboard mounting plates. 3. Install the supplied Right floorboard support (the longer one) with the round mounting face for the floorboard towards the upper-right using the supplied 7/16 x 1 º” long bolt. Apply blue Loctite to the threads. Insert the bolt from the backside where the original peg was mounted. Use a 5/8″ wrench & tighten securely. Note: If also installing with optional Relocation Arms (#FXD005-5) skip step 4 and go onto step 5. 4. Installation of Right Floorboard only. There are two sets of alignment holes on the floorboard support. Insert two of the four dowel-pins into the dowel pinholes at six and twelve o’clock. Place the right floorboard onto the mount and dowel pins so that it is parallel (horizontal) to the ground. Insert the supplied 5/16 X 1″ socket head cap screw through the floorboard mount & thread into the floorboard support. Use a º” hex key wrench & tighten securely. 5. Remove Right Floorboard – Installation of Right Floorboard with Relocation Arm. There are two sets of alignment holes on the floorboard support. Insert two of the four dowel pins into the dowel holes 180 degrees apart. Notice the L & R markings on the backside of the relocation arms. Install the Right relocation arm so marking (R) is facing inward and the threaded hole is facing toward the front of the motorcycle. There are two sets of alignment holes on the relocation arms. Place the arm onto the mount (Match dowel pin holes) in desired upper or lower position. Insert the supplied 5/16 X 1″ socket head cap screw through the relocation arm & thread into the floorboard support. Use a º” hex key wrench & tighten securely. 6. At the other end of the relocation arm there are two sets of alignment holes. Insert two of the supplied dowel pins into the set of dowel pin holes 180 degrees apart that will allow the floorboard to be horizontal or parallel to the ground. Insert the supplied 5/16 X 3/4″ socket head cap screw through the floorboard mount & thread into the link arm. Use a º” hex key wrench & tighten securely.

HARLEY-DAVIDSON Starter Relay Location Guide

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 18-04-2012

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Touring 1998 – 2007 Additional Notes: Relay Location: Under Seat in rubber Boot Battery Connection: Under Seat,Visiable Installation Notes: No Access Issues Factory Relay Type: FULL SIZE Factory Relay Part #: 31504-91A Connection Type: Ground Lug to Battery + Terminial System Relay Replacement: R-S-1 Circuit: Cold C Copywrite 2005 Identity Inv. LLC As of: 11.05 ***2004 – 2007 FLHR series bikes & 2007 FLHX require additional Adaptor AD-1 & DGD-1. Start Relay is in Power Distribution box. Replaces H-D Relay part# 31579-04 Softails 2000 – 2007 Additional Notes: 2000 is when the Softails changed to Twin Cams. Relay Location: Under Seat in covered Power Distribution Box. Battery Connection: Under Seat,Visiable Installation Notes: No Access Issues Factory Relay Type: 1/2 SIZE Factory Relay Part #: 31522-00B Connection Type: Ground Lug to Battery + Terminial System Relay Replacement: R-S-3 Circuit: Cold C Copywrite 2005 Identity Inv. LLC As of: 11.05 Softails 1996 – 1999 Additional Notes: Relay Location: Under Seat in covered Power Distribution Box. Battery Connection: Under Seat,Visiable Installation Notes: No Access Issues Factory Relay Type: FULL SIZE Factory Relay Part #: 31504-91A Connection Type: Ground Lug to Battery + Terminial System Relay Replacement: R-S-1 Circuit: Cold C Copywrite 2005 Identity Inv. LLC As of: 11.05
Dyna 2007 Additional Notes: Relay Location: Under Side Panel Cover. Battery Connection: Replace Batt 15A Fuse with Supplied Fuse Holder Installation Notes: No Access Issues Factory Relay Type: 1/2 SIZE Factory Relay Part #: 31522-00B Connection Type: Tap 12v Fuse (Batt 15A) System Relay Replacement: R-S-3 Circuit: Cold C Copywrite 2005 Identity Inv. LLC As of: 11.05 Dyna 2000 – 2005 Additional Notes: Relay Location: Under Side Panel Cover. Battery Connection: Battery connection is made direct to Battery Buss to right of Relay * see Pic3 Installation Notes: Remove Outer Cover, then Remove 4 bolts holding secondary protector plate in place. Relay is on the upper left. Factory Relay Type: 1/2 SIZE Factory Relay Part #: 31522-00B Connection Type: Ground Lug to Battery Buss + Terminial System Relay Replacement: R-S-3 Circuit: Cold C Copywrite 2005 Identity Inv. LLC As of: 11.05 Pic3 Sportster 2004-2007

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2006-up Harley-Davidson Single Bore Induction System Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 10-11-2010

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Remove the stock fuel induction system, including the manifold and disconnecting all wire connections. It is up to the technician as to whether the gas tank should be removed or just raised up in the rear. Picture 1 2- You will need to disassemble the stock induction system to remove the pre-listed parts for re-use. 3- Verify the new manifold size is appropriate for your motorcycle by sliding it in place. Picture 2 Picture 3 4 5- Slide the MAP sensor in place, being sure not to pinch the orange rubber seal—some clean engine oil may make this easier. Install the cable guide and verify it is aligned with the throttle cable actuator. Once alignment is satisfactory, apply Loctite® 222 to the 10-24 x 1/4″ screws and tighten to 18-22 in-lbs. 4- Install the new O-ring into the throttle body. A light film of clean engine oil can be used to help hold the O-ring in place. Align the manifold to the throttle body, use purple 222 Loctite® on the 10-24 x 1″ socket-head assembly screws (with flat washers) and tighten them to 35-40 in-lbs. 6- Using the new S&S® supplied gasket, slide the S&S supplied intake air temperature (IAT) sensor in place. Use Loctite 222 on the T10 Torx button head M3 x .5 x 10mm screws and tighten to 6-8 in-lbs. Picture 4 Picture 5 Picture 6 5 7- For the stock throttle position sensor attach the “C” shaped spacer to the end of the throttle shaft, put a 4mm flat washer on each T20 Torx button head M4 x .7 x 12mm screw, apply some Loctite® 222 and torque screws to 18-23 in-lbs. 8- Install the new O-ring on the IAC motor. Lubricate the OD of the O-ring with a light film of clean engine oil. Put a 4mm flat washer on each T20 Torx button head M4 x .7 x 12mm screw, coat the threads with Loctite 222. Install the IAC motor and tighten the screws to 18-23 in-lbs. 9- Partially install the fuel injectors in the fuel rail. Be sure to orient the black O-rings to the rail and align the clocking tabs with their holes. It may be helpful to lubricate the O-rings with clean engine oil. See Picture 9. NOTE : These are special O-rings that seal pressurized gasoline. If you see one with damage or an abrasion—replace it immediately. Picture 7 Picture 8 Picture 9 6 10- Connect the Injectors to the manifold with a light squeezing action. Lubricate the O-rings with clean engine oil. Once in place, use Loctite® 222 on the threads of two 8-32 x 5/8″ slotted panhead screws and tighten to 15-20 in-lbs. 11- Install the backing washer and O-ring on the fuel supply tube. Lubricate the O-ring with clean engine oil. When the tube is in place, position the Y-shaped clip on the fuel rail and tighten the Loctite 222 coated T20 Torx button head M4 x 7 x 12mm screw to 18-23 in-lbs – Gently push the injectors downward toward the manifold to increase clearance for connecting the wire connectors. Cut the existing injector connectors from the motorcycle harness. Slide the sleeveing onto the injector harness. Slide heat shrink tubing on to each wire of the injector harness wires. Crimp the butt splices to the motorcycle harness. Move the heat shrinks over the splices and shrink with a heat gun. Slide the sleeve into place. Picture 10 Picture 11a Picture 11b Picture 12 Picture 12a 7 13- Put the stock manifold flanges on the manifold. YOU MUST USE THE S&S® RUBBER GASKETS ON THEM. Be sure to orient the tapered end towards the manifold and the flat end to the heads. 14- Hold the manifold up in its basic mounting position and connect all of the wiring harness connectors at this time. Install the manifold using the stock mounting flange bolts (from the primary side of the motorcycle) coated with Loctite® 242 and the new S&S cam side screws (1/4″ socket head, 5/16-18 x 3/4″). If a screw longer than 3/4″ is used, damage to the heads will result. Lightly snug all four manifold mounting bolts but DO NOT TIGHTEN AT THIS TIME. Connect the throttle cables and cruise control bracket (if applicable) at this time. NOTE: The Harley-Davidson® service manual for your model motorcycle will be helpful during this step. 15- Install the breather system now. On 4.00-inch bore or smaller engines the breather uses banjo fittings with hollow bolts and connects across the heads to the intake with a T-hose. This hose will need to be trimmed and have spring clamps attached as shown in photo. Torque the hollow bolts to 10-12 ft-lbs. On 41/8-inch bore or larger engines, install the sharp bent hose on the rear head and install the check valve with the white end towards the head. Mount the other hose on the black end of the check valve and connect it to the throttle body using spring clamps to secure the connections. Picture 13 Picture 14 Picture 15 8 16- Once the breathers are secure, install the fuel line per the factory service manual you are working with. Connect the battery and verify the fuel pump turns on to pressurize the system and there are no gas leaks, but DO NOT START THE ENGINE. At this time, PC software may also be used to verify sensor readings and adjust the throttle position sensor voltage if necessary. 17- Install two 242 Loctite® coated pipe plugs (included in kit) in the air cleaner backplate as shown in Picture 16. Torque to 35-45 in-lbs. Also, two pan screws coated with Loctite® 222 must be installed in the backplate in place of the enrichment device. See Picture 16a. Torque them to 12-18 in-lbs. Failure to install these screws could allow dirt and debris into the intake system. 18- Use a new gasket on the backplate and put it in place noting the number of shims required. Once you select the appropriate shims (included) mount the backing plate to the engine but DO NOT INSTALL THE SCREWS YET

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2001 YAMAHA TDM900 SERVICE MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 20-11-2010

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CHECKING THE SWITCHES ELEC EAS00731 ELECTRICAL CHECKING THE SWITCHES Check each switch for damage or wear, proper connections, and also for continuity between the terminals. Refer to “CHECKING SWITCH CONTINUITY”. Damage/wear Repair or replace. Improperly connected Properly connect. Incorrect continuity reading Replace the switch. -3- ELECTRIC STARTING SYSTEM ELEC EAS00755 ELECTRIC STARTING SYSTEM CIRCUIT DIAGRAM -4- ELECTRIC STARTING SYSTEM ELEC 4 Main fuse 5 Battery 7 Starter relay 8 Starter motor 9 Main switch 12 Starting circuit cut-off relay 13 Sidestand switch 14 Neutral switch 49 Clutch switch 59 Engine stop switch 60 Start switch 61 Ignition fuse -5- ELECTRIC STARTING SYSTEM ELEC EAS00756 STARTING CIRCUIT CUT-OFF SYSTEM OPERATION If the engine stop switch is set to “” and the main switch is set to “ON” (both switches are closed), the starter motor can only operate if at least one of the following conditions is met: The transmission is in neutral (the neutral switch is closed). The clutch lever is pulled to the handlebar (the clutch switch is closed) and the side- stand is up (the sidestand switch is closed). The starting circuit cut-off relay prevents the starter motor from operating when neither of these conditions has been met. In this instance, the starting circuit cut-off relay is open so current cannot reach the starter motor. When at least one of the above conditions has been met the starting circuit cut-off relay is closed and the engine can be started by pressing the starter switch. WHEN THE TRANSMISSION IS IN NEUTRAL WHEN THE SIDESTAND IS UP AND THE CLUTCH LEVER IS PULLED TO THE HANDLEBAR 4. Starting circuit cut-off relay Disconnect the starting circuit cut-off relay from the wire harness. Connect the pocket tester (Ω 1) and battery (12 V) to the starting circuit cut-off relay terminals as shown. YES NO Replace the starting circuit cut-off relay. Does the starting circuit cut-off relay have continuity between blue/white and black? EAS00759 Continuity Tester positive probe sky blue Tester negative probe blue/yellow No conti- nuity 1 2 1 3 Tester positive probe sky blue Tester negative probe black/yellow Battery positive terminal red/black Battery negative terminal black/yellow 1 2 Tester positive prove blue/white Tester negative prove black 3 4 5. Starting circuit cut-off relay (diode) Disconnect the starting circuit cut-off relay from the wire harness. Connect the pocket tester (Ω 1) to the starting circuit cut-off relay terminals as shown. Measure the starting circuit cut-off relay for continuity as follows. Tester positive probe blue/green Tester negative probe blue/yellow 4 3 Tester positive probe black/yellow Tester negative probe sky blue 2 1 Tester positive probe blue/yellow Tester negative probe sky blue 3 1 Tester positive probe blue/yellow Tester negative probe blue/green 3 4 When you switch the tester’s positive and negative probes, the readings in the above chart will be reversed. Are the testing readings correct? YES NO Replace the starting circuit cut-off relay. NOTE: EAS00760

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