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Yamaha YZ400/426F Camshafts REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 01-01-2012

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Cleanliness is always a good place to start. Make sure the motorcycle is cleaned thoroughly before you start. It would be advisable to use an engine degreaser on the frame and the engine. This will ensure a clean engine during the assembly process and less of a chance of thread damage and/or dirt contamination in the engine during reassembly. And as always, replace any fiber-based gasket that was moved in any way, i.e.: cam chain tensioner. You will need basic hand tools and a torque wrench, machine towels (rags), some cleaning solvent, and a cam chain tensioner gasket. And the Hot Cams’ Degree Wheel Kit if you so desire. We will start by removing the tank and seat, top engine mount, and the cam cover. Remove the crankshaft cap and timing hole cap on the left engine case cover. Remove the spark plug. Rotate the engine in a counter clockwise (CCW) direction. Position the engine on top dead center (TDC) using the mark on the flywheel or better yet a degree wheel using a positive stop. Be sure to notice that the intake valves were the last to move, this will ensure the engine of being on “true” TDC. True top dead center occurs when both the intake and exhaust valve are closed when the piston is at TDC. This is technically the end of the compression stroke and the Page 1
beginning of the power stroke. The “artificial” TDC is during the overlap when both the intake and exhaust valves would be open. Note the positioning of the cam lobes (their included angle will be close to 170 degrees), this will help during the installation of your new Hot Cams camshafts Remove the cap bolt on the end of the cam chain tensioner block, be aware of the copper washer. Release the spring tension on the cam chain tensioner by turning the flat blade screw slot inside the adjuster block in a clockwise (CW) direction; it will lock in the retracted position. Remove the two 8mm headed bolts that hold the cam chain tensioner to the cylinder block. Remove and discard the gasket. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the exhaust cam cap in place, lift the cam cap off. It may be necessary to pry very lightly on the cap to lift it off its dowel pins. Do not use the cam lobes as the pry point. Be careful not to drop the dowels and also be careful to not lose the half moon shaped retainer for the bearing under the cam cap. Remove the 6 bolts that secure the intake cam cap and lift the cam cap off the camshaft, again, be careful to not drop the retainer or dowels. Lift the intake camshaft out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting. Remove the cam chain from the sprocket, set the stock camshaft aside. Lift the exhaust camshaft out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting and remove the chain from the sprocket. Do not drop the cam chain, dangle it over the side of the engine while keeping slight upward pressure on the chain to maintain its position on the drive sprocket on the crankshaft

Yamaha YZ 250F Camshafts REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 30-12-2011

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Remove the 4 bolts that hold the exhaust cam cap in place, lift the cam cap off. It may be necessary to pry very lightly on the cap to lift it off its dowel pins. Do not use the cam lobes as the pry point. Be careful not to drop the dowels and also be careful to not lose the half moon shaped retainer for the bearing under the cam cap. Remove the 6 bolts that hold the intake camshaft cap and lift the cam cap off the camshaft, again, be careful to not drop the retainer or dowels. Lift the intake camshaft out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting. Remove the cam chain from the sprocket, set the stock camshaft aside. Lift the exhaust cam out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting and remove the chain from the sprocket. Do not drop the cam chain, dangle it over the side of the engine while keeping slight upward pressure on the chain to maintain its position on the drive sprocket on the crankshaft. Fit the half moon shaped retainers in the grooves of the Hot Cams camshaft bearings to ensure good fit, set retainers aside for the time. Using assembly lube, lube the shim buckets, bearing surfaces for the camshafts in the cylinder head, and pack some in the camshaft bearings. Set the exhaust cam into the cylinder head casting while at the same time fitting the cam chain over the sprocket. Make sure that you keep all the cam chain slack to the back of the engine. The cam chain pulls the camshaft sprockets in a counter clockwise direction and the slack of the chain must be kept on the cam chain tensioner side of the engine. The exhaust cam has two timing marks on it. When correctly installed one mark will be at the 9 o’clock position and the other mark will be at the 12 o’clock position. When correctly timed the mark at 9 o’clock will be aligned with the valve cover gasket surface. Repeat the above process for the intake camshaft. Again, make sure you keep the chain slack to the cam chain tensioner side of the engine. Check to be sure the crankshaft is still at TDC. The intake cam has two timing marks also. One at 12 o’clock and the other at 3 o’clock. When both cams are installed correctly, the valve cover gasket surface will form a straight line through the exhaust timing mark at 9 o’clock and the intake timing mark at 3 o’clock

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Harley-Davidson Twin Cam Engines Cam Chain Drive System Installation and removal MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 27-03-2012

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Removing the Cam Chain Drive System. NOTES Changing camshafts and cam drives in the 2006-up Harley-Davidson® Twin Cam 88® engines is different than in pervious engines. Procedures require use • of some special tools. Installation should be done by an experienced mechanic with access to factory service manual and required tools. Tighten all fasteners to the correct specifications and in order described. Always use an accurate torque wench. • Incorrect installation can cause engine damage not covered under warranty. CAUTION Failure to install components correctly can result in sudden engine seizure. Engine seizure may result in serous injury to motorcycle operator, passenger, or others. A- Disconnect the battery ground cable to eliminate potential sparks and inadvertently engagement of the starter while working on the motorcycle. B- Remove spark plugs and pushrod cover clips. Collapse the pushrod covers to expose the pushrods. C- Safely elevate and stabilize the rear of the motorcycle. Place the transmission in high gear. Turn the rear wheel to rotate the engine until both lifters and pushrods for either cylinder are at the lowest point on the camshaft (TDC of compression stroke). Both intake and exhaust pushrods for that cylinder will be under pressure from the valve springs and will rotate with light finger pressure. NOTE: 510G camshafts may use stock style non-adjustable pushrods instead of adjustable pushrods. If installing non-adjustable pushrods, disassemble and assemble rocker boxes per H-D® instructions. All other S&S® gear driven cams require installing adjustable pushrods. As a time-saving measure, the stock pushrods can be removed with bolt cutters. Be sure to head caution and warnings of these instructions. D- Cut the pushrods for the cylinder that is at TDC with the bolt cutter and remove the pushrod covers from the engine. Rotate the engine to place the pushrods for the other cylinder at their lowest point. Cut and remove the remaining pushrods. WARNING CAUTION Cutting pushrods with a saw or cutoff wheel may result in debris entering the engine, causing engine damage not covered under warranty. WARNING Cutting pushrods without releasing spring pressure, by rotating the engine until tappets are at the lowest point of travel can result in bodily injury. E- Remove the pushrod covers and lifters form the crankcase. F- Remove engine cam cover and gasket. Secure lifers with a tool made from a large binder clip

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Kawasaki KFX KLX 400 Camshafts Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Remove the plug bolt from the back of the cam chain tensioner assembly. It is under pressure from the spring. Remove the spring and pin. Remove the bolts and tensioner assembly from the cylinder. Release the lock on the tensioner assembly and push the tensioner rod into the assembly so that it is fully retracted. Remove the eight 5mm Allen headed bolts that hold the cam caps in place. Remove the cam caps; be aware of the locating dowels in the caps to keep them from falling into the engine. It may be necessary to pry very lightly on the caps to lift them off their dowel pins. Do not use the cam lobe as the pry point. Lift the intake camshaft out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting. Remove the cam chain from the sprocket, set the stock camshaft aside. Lift the exhaust cam out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting and remove the chain from the sprocket. Do not drop the cam chain; dangle it over the side of the engine while keeping slight upward pressure on the chain to maintain its position on the drive sprocket on the crankshaft. Using assembly lube, lube the shim buckets and bearing surfaces for the camshafts in the cylinder head. Set the exhaust camshaft into the cylinder head casting while at the same time fitting the cam chain over the sprocket. Make sure that you keep all the cam chain slack to the back of the engine. Repeat the above process for the intake camshaft. Again, make sure you keep the chain slack to the cam chain tensioner side of the engine. Check to be sure the crankshaft is still at TDC. Check the location of the cam lobes. The camshafts are marked, and preset to 108-degree centers. If the lobes are not where they should be, adjust the positioning of the camshaft by rotating the sprocket one tooth on the chain. Do this until it is in the correct position as before you removed the camshafts. Check the positioning of the crankshaft for the TDC mark

HARLEY DAVIDSON HYBRID CAM PLATE AND HIGH FLOW OIL PUMP KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 07-02-2011

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REMOVAL To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect battery cables (negative (-) cable first) before proceeding. (00307a) Disconnect negative (-) battery cable first. If positive (+) cable should contact ground with negative (-) cable connected, the resulting sparks can cause a battery explosion, which could result in death or serious injury. (00049a) 1. Refer to the service manual and follow the instructions to remove the seat and disconnect the battery cables, negative (-) cable first. Retain all seat mounting hardware. Gasoline can drain from the carburetor fuel line when disconnected from fuel valve fitting. Gasoline is extremely flammable and highly explosive, which could result in death or serious injury. Wipe up spilled fuel immediately and dispose of rags in a suitable manner. (00256a) NOTES Installing this kit requires removal and installation of the cam support plate. Refer to the service manual for instructions with the following exception pertaining to cam compartment compo- nents: The crank and primary cam sprocket flange bolts are specially hardened, and the flat washers are of a special diameter and have ground surfaces. Use ONLY the parts provided in the Drive Gear Retention Kit (H-D Part Number 25533-99A, sold separately) when installing this kit. -J04804 1 of 7
The cr ank sprocket flange bolts and pr imary cam sproc ket flange bolts ARE NOT interchangeable. 2. Refer to the service manual to remove and discard the crank sprocket flange bolts and primary cam sprocket flange bolts and washers. 3. For 1999 models only: Refer to the service manual to remove and discard the currently installed cam drive sprocket. 4. Refer to the service manual to remove and disassemble the cams from the support plate and oil pump. Discard the support plate and oil pump. 5. For 1999 – 2000 Dyna, 2000 Softail, 1999 – 2000 Touring, and 2001 EFI Touring models only: Inspect the cams, chain, sprockets and chain tensioners for wear, and replace as needed. Refer to the service manual for inspection and replacement procedures. For 2001 – 2005 Dyna, 2001 – 2006 Softail, 2002 – 2006 Touring, and 2001 carbureted Touring models only: Inspect the cams and secondary cam chain for wear, and replace as needed. Refer to the service manual for inspection and replacement procedures. The primary cam chain, primary sprockets and both tensioners will be replaced by new components from the kit. For ALL models and years: Discard the guide, as it will not be used. INSTALLATION 1. ALL models: See Figure 1. Obtain the new Rear Cam Roller Bearing Kit (H-D Part Number 8983) from inside the Cam Service Kit (H-D Part Number 17045-99C, purchased separately), and install as indicated in Step 2. NOTE See Figure 2. If not enough of the splined shaft is exposed to install the sprocket, omit the spacer (4) and proceed to Step 2e. When the bearing inner race is started onto the machined area, remove the flange bolt (5), flat washer (6) and sprocket, then assemble using the spacer (4). Repeat Step 2e to fully install bearing inner race. To center thrust washer, be sure o-ring is installed in relief groove. Damage to bearing cage and engine can occur if thrust washer is not centered. (00473b) 2. See Figure 1. Install the O-ring (5), thrust washer (4) and bearing inner race (3) onto the rear camshaft as follows: a. See Figure 2. To properly locate the thrust washer (2), install the O-ring (3) in the grinding relief groove on the splined end of the rear camshaft between the machined area and the secondary cam sprocket.

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MOTORCYCLE ROLLER CHAIN Maintenance and Lubrication

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 27-11-2010

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Cleaning and Relubrication Perhaps the largest contributor to shortened chain life is inadequate lubrica- tion. All working parts of a chain should be lubricated uniformly. The use of the highest viscosity oil that allows for flow between the link plates and coats pin-bushing areas will normally provide the greatest wear resistance. Apply oil to the upper edges of link plates. This allows for the greatest access of oil to pin-bushing joints. For open drives, excess lubrication on outer chain surfaces should be removed, since it will either be thrown off during operation or serve to collect foreign materials. If foreign objects or surplus lubrication accumulates on chain surfaces to the extent of making re-lubrication of the joints impossible, the chain must be cleaned. Standard roller chains may be cleaned by washing in kerosene or any other good petroleum-based solvent. WARNING: These solvents are flammable. Agitate the chain to assure penetration of the solvent and a thorough flushing of the pin-bushing areas. Drain off excess solvent and inspect bushings and pins for wear. Replace the chain if wear is excessive or parts are fractured or missing. O-ring chains may be cleaned externallyby washing in kerosene. Do not use any other cleaning agent or the O-rings may be damaged. When cleaning O- ring chain, clean only the external areas of the chain. Do not attempt to force kerosene into the pin-bush cavity. Do not try to repair a worn-out chain by replacing individual links. The pitch of the new links will be shorter and will most likely result in chain fatigue failure and/or severe sprocket damage. For chains which are still usable, soak them in SAE 40 or 50 automotive engine oil (without additives). Flexing the chain in oil will assure greater penetration of lubricant. Inspect and clean sprockets. If sprockets are worn or damaged, they should be replaced.Installing new chain on worn out sprockets will significantly shorten the chain’s service life. WARNING: always wear eye protection when assembling or disassembling chain

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2004 Honda CRF450R OWNER'S MANUAL

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 21-11-2010

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motorcycle can be kickstarted with the transmission in gear by disengaging the clutch before operating the kickstarter. Check the engine oil, transmission oil and coolant levels before starting the engine (page 21, 23, 24). Cold Engine Starting: 1. Turn the fuel valve ON. 2. Shift the transmission into neutral. 3. If the temperature is 35°C (95°F) or below, pull the choke knob fully out. 4. If the temperature is below 0°C (32°F), open the throttle two or three times. (The engine requires a richer mixture for starting in cold weather. When the throttle is so opened, the accelerator pump will feed extra fuel to the cylinder, thereby facilitating starting in cold weather.) 5. With the throttle closed, operate the kickstarter starting from the top of the kickstarter stroke, kick through to the bottom with a rapid, continuous motion. (Do not open the throttle, As the carburetor is equipped with an accelerator pump, excessive fuel will be charged into the engine, and the spark plug will be fouled if the throttle is opened and closed repeatedly. Excessive fuel in the engine makes kick- starting difficult.) 6. About a minute after the engine starts, push the choke knob back all the way to fully OFF. If idling is unstable, open the throttle slightly. (1) FUEL FILL CAP (2) BREATHER TUBE WARNING (1) FUEL VALVE (2) CHOKE KNOB Warm Engine Starting: 1. Turn the fuel valve ON. 2. Shift the transmission into neutral. 3. Pull the hot start lever and kick-start the engine. (Do not open the throttle.) 4. As soon as the engine starts, release the hot start lever 1. Shift the transmission into neutral. 2. Pull the hot start lever and kick-start the engine. (Do not open the throttle.) 3. As soon as the engine starts, release the hot start lever. Starting the engine excessively charged with fuel by throttle blipping or other reasons: 1. Shift the transmission into neutral. 2. With the throttle fully opened, repeat kickstarter operation approximately 10 times very slowly to discharge excessive fuel from the engine. 3. Pull the hot start lever and kick-start the engine (Do not open the throttle.) 4. As soon as the engine starts, release the hot start lever. Stopping The Engine 1. Shift the transmission into neutral. 2. Turn the fuel valve OFF. 3. Lightly open the throttle 2 – 3 times, and then close it. 4. Depress and hold the engine stop button until the engine stops completely. NOTE: • Failure to close the fuel valve may cause the carburetor to overflow. (1) THROTTLE GRIP (2) ENGINE STOP BUTTON Break-In Procedure Help assure your CRF’s future reliability and performance by paying extra attention to how you ride during the first operating day or 15 miles (25 km). During this period, avoid full-throttle starts and rapid acceleration. This same procedure should be followed each time when: • Piston is replaced • Rings are replaced • Cylinder is replaced • Crankshaft or crank bearing are replaced

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KTM 60 SX / 65 SX REPAIR MANUAL ENGINE

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 12-11-2010

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Carburetor adjustment Basic information about the original carburetor setting The original carburetor setting was adapted for an altitude of approx. 500 meters (1600 ft.) above sea level, and the ambient temperature of approx. 20°C (68°F), mainly for off-road use and central European premium-grade fuel (ROZ 95). Mixing ratio 2-stroke motor oil : super fuel 1:40 . Basic information of changing the carburetor setting Always start out from the original carburetor setting. Essential requirements are a clean air filter system, air-tight exhaust system and an intact carburetor. Experience has shown that adjusting the main jet, the idling jet and the jet needle is sufficient and that changes of other parts of the carburetor will not greatly affect engine performance. RULE OF THUMB: high altitude or high temperatures  choose leaner carburetor adjustment low altitude or low temperatures  choose richer carburetor adjustment * WARNING * -ONLYUSE PREMIUM – GRADE GASOLINE ROZ 95 MIXED WITH HIGH – GRADE TWO – STROKE ENGINE OIL . OTHER TYPES OF GASOLINE CAN CAUSE ENGINE FAILURE , AND USE OF SAME WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY . -ONLYUSE HIGH – GRADE 2- STROKE ENGINE OIL OF KNOWN BRANDS ( I . E .SHELL ADVANCE RACING X). -NOTENOUGH OIL OR LOW – GRADE OILCAN CAUSE EROSION OF THE PISTON . USING TOO MUCH OIL , THE ENGINE CAN START SMOKING AND FOUL THE SPARKPLUG . -INTHE CASE OFA LEANER ADJUSTMENT OF THE CARBURETOR PROCEED CAUTIOUSLY . ALWAYSREDUCETHEJETSIZEINSTEPSOFONENUMBERTOAVOID OVERHEATING AND PISTON SEIZURE . NOTE: If despite a changed adjustment the engine does not run properly, look for mechanical faults and check the ignition system. Basic information on carburetor wear As a result of engine vibrations, throttle valve, jet needle, and needle jet are subjected to increased wear. This wear may cause carburetor malfunction (e.g., overly rich mixture). Therefore, these parts should be replaced after 1000 hours of using. Idling range – A Operation with closed throttle valve. This range is influenced by the idle adjusting screw 1 . Only make adjustments when the engine is hot. The idling speed can be changed by turning the idle adjusting screw. Turning it clockwise produces a higher idling speed and turning the screw counterclockwise produces a lower idling speed. Opening up – B Engine behavior when the throttle opens. The idle jet and the shape of the throttle valve influences this range. If, despite good idling-speed and part-throttle setting, the engine sputters and smokes when the throttle is fully opened and develops its full power not smoothly but suddenly at high engine speeds, the mixture to the carburetor will be too rich, the fuel level too high or the float needle is leaking. Part-throttle range – C Operation with partly open throttle valve. This range is only influenced by the jet needle (shape and position). The optimum part-throttle setting is controlled by the idling setting in the lower range and by the main jet in the upper range. If the engine runs on a four-stroke cycle or with reduced power when it is accelerated with the throttle partly open, the jet needle must be lowered by one notch. If then the engine pings, especially when accelerating under full power at maximum engine revs, the jet needle should be raised. If these faults should occur at the lower end of the part throttle range at a four-stroke running, make the idling range leaner; if the engine pings, adjust the idling range richer

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Harley Davidson engine modification

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 02-11-2010

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Looking for high performance engine specifications for your Harley- Davidson motorcycle? Need to know what high performance equipment provides the best performance at the lowest costs for your H-D. Here you can look at performance modifications with the dyno runs of many different engine combinations, so you can pick your own equipment, horsepower rating and dollars to spend. An incremental approach to engine development has provided some good results on many engines. Find out what combination of carburetor, camshaft, exhaust systems, ignition systems, head work, pistons and the other high performance components work well. There are tests of some equipment that did not work well. Know what works and what does not. Compare the results of your current bike to those seen here. Are you getting the performance you paid for? If you have had success in your engine development program, send a picture of the bike and your performance results (dyno sheets or time slips) to the V -Twin Café for publication. The V -Twin Café is always looking for good articles on motorcycle performance work. If you write performance oriented articles, contact us. Twin Cam 88 and 95 cubic inches Twin Cam Engines from Harley-Davidson have a good design and some nice upgrades available from the local Dealer including a 95 cubic inch big bore kit. What can you expect from this engine? Here are some engine configurations that have been tested. 45 to 50 HP Stock Evolution Engines are the starting point for all the modifications. The only way to validate what the performance gain was for any change is to have dyno runs before and after. These are the before runs of several bikes. 55 to 65 HP Up to $750 Stage One Evolution Harley-Davidson engines involve no internal changes made to the engine. All modifications are made by changing or modifications to external components on the engine. These components include air cleaners, carburetors, exhaust systems and ignition systems. No special tools or training is required to perform stage one modifications.

HARLEY DAVIDSON V-Series California Engine Owner's Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 28-11-2010

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During Break-In At 50 Miles (80 Kilometers): 1- Change engine oil and filter. 2- Inspect for fuel and oil leaks. 3- Inspect air cleaner element and service as required. 4- Check tightness of exterior fasteners, except head bolts. Engine Maintenance at 500 Miles (800 Kilometers): 1- Change engine oil and filter. 2- Inspect for fuel and oil leaks. 3- Inspect air cleaner element and service as required. 4- Check tightness of exterior fasteners, except head bolts. 5- Check operation of enrichment device and throttle controls. 6- Check engine idle speed. 7- Check tightness of engine mounts. Regular Service Intervals Regular lubrication and maintenance will help keep your new S&S engine operating at peak performance. The following table presents the required service schedule for normal operating conditions. Failure to complete the required engine maintenance can result in engine damage and an increase in emissions. Please refer to the motorcycle owner’s manual for any additional required chassis maintenance. Engine Service Intervals Item Interval Engine Oil & Filter Change at 50, 500, 2,500 miles (80, 800, 4,000 kilometers), every 2,500 miles (4,000 kilometers) thereafter1 Air Cleaner Element Inspect at 50 and 500 miles (80 and 800 kilometers), every 2,500 miles (4,000 kilometers) thereafter2 Tappet Oil Screen Inspect every 2,500 miles (4,000 kilometers). Replace every 5,000 miles (8,000 kilometers). Petcock, Lines, & Fittings, Vacuum Lines Inspect at 50 and 500 miles (80 and 800 kilometers), every 2,500 miles (4,000 kilometers) thereafter. Fuel Tank Filter Screen & In-Line Fuel Filter (If used) Inspect every 5,000 miles (8,000 kilometers). Engine Idle Speed Adjust as required. Operation of Throttle & Enrichment Device ControlsInspect at 500 miles (800 kilometers) and every 2,500 miles (4,000 kilometers) thereafter. Spark Plugs Inspect every 5,000 miles (8,000 kilometers). Replace every 10,000 miles (16,000 kilometers) or as needed. Ignition Timing Inspect every 5,000 miles (8,000 kilometers). Engine Mounts Inspect at 500 miles (800 kilometers) and every 5,000 miles (8,000 kilometers) thereafter. External Fasteners Except Engine Head Bolts Re-torque at 500 miles (800 kilometers) and every 5,000 miles (8,000 kilometers) thereafter. 1- S&S recommends that petroleum-based oil not specifically formulated for motorcycles should be changed every 1,000 miles (1,600 kilometers) after the break-in period. 2- Replace more frequently if required or if engine is operated in a dusty environment.

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