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V-Star 1100 And Dragstar 1100 Modification V-Star Driving/ Passing Lights Factory Chrome Light Bar Cover Installation

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 08-11-2010

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Modify your factory light bar cover to fit on Yamaha brand driving/passing lights. Use a rotary tool to widen the fastening area of the lower backside clips on the cover. The total width between the clips should be 4 æ inches. Trim off º inch on both inside ends of the lower backside attachment clips. Trim the clips equally. The following picture shows a modified cover. Narrow the clips on both ends to fit over the welds on the bar. The cover will not attach to the bar if the width between the clips is too narrow. If the width is too wide the cover may slide sideways on the bar. Narrow both clips equally to center the cover over the welds on the lower edge of the bar. The top of the cover is modified to allow the cover to fit over the bolts on the light bar. The top edge of the cover is filed æ inch deep and 5/8 inch wide to fit over the bolts. The back top edge is filed or ground 1/8 inch to fit over the light bar fastening bracket. Use care when filing chrome covered plastic. The following picture will help to complete this step in the modification. Modify your factory light bar cover to fit on Yamaha brand driving/passing lights. The ends of the cover are modified to allow the cover to fit over the upward curved light bar. The upper openings on the ends of the cover that fit over the bar must be filed to enlarge the area. Grinding the cover ends will allow the cover to fit and clip onto the bar. The end openings are filed or ground at an angle to match the slope of the bar. This picture shows the outer end of the cover. The ends of this cover have been modified by enlarging the area on the upper edges to fit over the upward curving light bar. The ends must be enlarged 1/8 inch on the top edge. The cover edge can be slanted upward to match the curved bar. Modify the cover ends until it fits without the outer chrome cover touching the bar. Modify your factory light bar cover to fit on Yamaha brand driving/passing lights. Sometimes the modified light bar cover may touch the bottom of the headlight. Modify the cover, or adjust the bar or headlight if you notice the headlight touching the bar cover. This modification makes the V-Star motorcycle with Yamaha driving lights look better. The light bar bolts are covered and the chrome cover improves the appearance of the front of your bike. Other V-Star riders will notice how nice the front of your bike looks with the chrome light bar cover installed

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HARLEY DAVIDSON LIGHTED MIRRORS REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 08-03-2011

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REMOVAL Prepare for Service Touring Models: Remove left side saddlebag, left side cover, and maxi-fuse. Refer to SADDLEBAG and MAXI-FUSE in Service Manual. Softail and Dyna Models: To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect battery cables (negative (-) cable first) before proceeding. (00307a) Disconnect negative (-) battery cable first. If positive (+) cable should contact ground with negative (-) cable connected, the resulting sparks can cause a battery explosion, which could result in death or serious injury. (00049a) 1. Remove seat according to the instructions in the Service Manual. 2. Disconnect battery cables, negative (-) cable first. 3. Remove fuel tank according to the instructions in the Service Manual. Sportster Models: Remove left side cover and maxi-fuse. Refer to MAXI-FUSE in Service Manual. V-Rod Models: Remove right side cover and maxi-fuse. Refer to MAXI-FUSE in Service Manual. Remove Existing Mirrors Touring and Softail (Except FXSTD, FLSTF) Models Left side: See Figure 1. Remove acorn nut (1), star washer (2), and existing mirror (3) from clutch hand control assembly. Discard star washer and mirror but save acorn nut. Right side: See Figure 2. Remove acorn nut (1), star washer (2), and existing mirror (3) from front brake hand control assembly. Discard star washer and mirror but save acorn nut. 2 1 3 is03431 1. Acorn nut 2. Star washer 3. Mirror, left Figure 1. Remove L.H. Mirror (Except Sportster) 2 1 3 is03432 1. Acorn nut 2. Star washer 3. Mirror, right Figure 2. Remove R.H. Mirror (Touring, Softail – Except FXSTD, FLSTF) Dyna, FXSTD, FLSTF, and VRSC Models 1. Left side: See Figure 1. Remove acorn nut (1), star washer (2), and existing mirror (3) from clutch hand control assembly. Discard star washer and mirror but save acorn nut. 2. Right side: See Figure 3. Loosen ball stud clamp (1) to remove directional lamp assembly (2). Remove retainer (3), star washer (4), and existing mirror (5) from front brake hand control assembly. Discard star washer and mirror but save remaining parts. 2 5 3 1 4 is03428 1. Ball stud clamp 2. Directional lamp assembly 3. Retainer 4. Star washer 5. Mirror, right Figure 3. Remove R.H. Mirror (Dyna, FXSTD, FLSTF, VRSC) Sportster Models Left side: See Figure 4. Remove locknut (1), washer (2), and existing mirror (3) from clutch hand control assembly. Discard washer and mirror but save locknut. Right side: See Figure 4. Remove locknut (1), washer (2), and existing mirror (4) from front brake hand control assembly. Discard washer and mirror but save locknut. 3 2 1 2 1 4 is03414 1. Locknut (2) 2. Washer (2) 3. Mirror, left 4. Mirror, right Figure 4. Remove Mirrors (Sportster) INSTALLATION Install Lighted Mirrors Touring and Softail (Except FXSTD, FLSTF, FXSTS, FLSTS) Models 1. Left side: See Figure 5. Install mirror stem (1) through clutch hand control assembly.

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Yamaha XVS650 and 1100 Drag Star/V-Star Service and Repair Manual

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 27-04-2011

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Fortunately, Haynes cruises to the rescue with the introduction of its new Service and Repair Manual for all Yamaha XVS650 and 1100 models – XVS650 (‘97-’05), XVS650A Classic (‘98-’05), XVS1100 (‘99–’05) and XVS1100A Classic (‘00–’05). Hailed as “… essential reading for any biker tackling his own servicing…” by Motor Cycle News, Haynes manuals have an enviable reputation. The new manual provides fully illustrated, step-by-step instructions for DIY servicing, overhaul and repairs of the engine and transmission, fuel and ignition systems, suspension and steering, the braking system and the electrical system. Each task is given a spanner rating for complexity and experience required. Checking and adjusting the valve clearances is rated as three spanners out of five. There are full-colour sections on the history of the models, on daily preride hecks and those all-important wiring diagrams, plus tools required and Haynes Hints. For instance, when changing the brake fluid how to tell when all the old fluid has been displaced The section guiding readers

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Honda Shadow A.C.E. v. Yamaha V-Star 1100 Middleweight Import Cruiser Shootout

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 25-11-2010

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You want a big cruiser but you don’t need a large 1500 cc behemoth that weighs close to half-a-ton fully loaded. You want something you can cruise down the boulevard on but you want to be able to handle a corner or two. You want classic styling but you insist on reliability as well. If these are your guidelines, then Honda and Yamaha might have what you’re looking for in the guise of the Honda Shadow American Classic Edition and Yamaha V-Star 1100. Shadow ACE 1100 The ACE and V-Star have a few things in common: Both sport requisite V-twin powerplants (75° for the V-Star and 45° for the ACE) and both possess typical Japanese refinement. Aside from these similarities, the two rides are very different machines. While both machines are shaft driven, the ACE uses the shaft housing as the swingarm. Although this arrangement is effective, it’s a bit lacking style-wise. However, the whitewall tires and the classic fenders and tank help to create a traditional design that turns heads when you’re out and about. The V-Star uses a different approach, utilizing a pivoting sub-frame design with a hidden mono-shock that keeps the lines fluid and consistent with the rest of the bike. Although this beast isn’t equipped with whitewall tires, it still cuts a graceful, glittering profile. The only flaw we noticed was the small headlight that

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Harley Davidson Dakota Digital HLY-6000 Road Star Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 31-10-2010

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The Road Star wiring is split into 2 different bundles with black connectors on the ends that were used to plug into the stock gauge cluster. Cut off both connectors. They are no longer needed The speed sensor wires on the HLY-6000 have a connector on the end that allows you to plug it directly into Harley Davidson speed sensors by using an appropriate adapter (sold separately). Luckily for us, the Road Star’s stock speed sensor will work just fine without an adapter so go ahead and cut off that connector, you don’t need it.
Ideally, the best location for the “brain box” unit of the HLY-6000 would be under the left side cover. Unfortunately, mine is full of other stuff so I had to improvise the location and decided to mount it to the back portion of the under-seat area. I would recommend that you mount yours under the left side cover though. The wires are the perfect length for that location. The brain box and wires could fit under the right side cover, but I don’t believe that the main gauge connector would reach. Using the wiring scheme on the last page of this guide, match up the wires on the Road Star with the corresponding wires on the HLY-6000 wiring harness and solder them together. Important Wiring Information: Both BLACK wires on the brain box need to be connected directly to the (-) terminal on the battery. Don’t connect them to anything else. The following wires from the Road Star are not used and can be taped off: • BLACK • RED / GREEN • BROWN The following wires from the HLY-6000 are not used and can be taped off: • GRAY • WHITE/ BLUE • WHITE (on main harness) • BROWN (*optional) The HLY-6000 has a “dimmer” function which is controlled by the BROWN wire. If you want the gauge to be bright all the time, then leave this wire disconnected. If you want the gauge to dim for night driving, then connect this wire to the GREEN Low Beam (+12v) wire

Yamaha Road Star EZ-Steer Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 17-02-2011

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Champion Yamaha Road Star EZ-Steer Installation of the Champion EZ-Steer system is similar to the installation of the OEM triple clamp of your Yamaha Road Star Motorcycle. Much of the OEM hardware is retained and reused. It is assumed that the installer has advanced and/or professional skills in motorcycle servicing. We recommend that you use an OEM service manual and follow the prescribed disassembly, installation and torque specifications for the upper and lower clamp assembly. Recommended Procedures • Remove headlight, windscreen (if so equipped) and brackets from motorcycle. • The wheel and fork assembly can be removed as one complete unit. Disconnect the master cylinder brake line from the tee fitting below the lower triple clamp. The caliper brake lines may be left in place on the tee fitting. • Install supplied extensions to fork tubes the supplied o-rings. Apply lubricant to o-rings and extensions prior to installing to fork tubes. • Install the lower fork tube covers to the lower clamp prior to installation to motorcycle using the longer screws supplied. The two longest screws are used in the outboard holes. • Replacing the upper OEM bearing and race with the Champion supplied bearing and race, install Champion lower triple clamp to motorcycle reusing original hardware as removed. Torque bearing lock nut to 30 lb. ft. • Slide fork tubes up through bottom of lower clamp approximately 6-8 inches. Install the OEM gaskets, washers and upper fork tube covers. Do not reinstall brake line holders at this time. • Install Champion upper clamp with OEM washer and dome nut. Leave loose. • Slide forks up and into the upper clamp until top of extension is flush with top surface of clamp. • Torque dome nut to 85 lb. ft. • Ensure that fork tube extensions are flush with top of upper clamp. Torque upper and lower clamp bolts to 35lb. ft. • Install handle bars to upper clamp using OEM bolt with supplied flat washers. One washer on top, two on bottom, both sides. • Reinstall brake line holders to the bottom of the lower triple clamp using the supplied M6 NyLoc nuts. • Reinstall all other OEM parts as removed. • Bleed brakes. EZ-Steer Maintenance

YAMAHA 1996-2003 Road Star BILLET TACH MOUNT KIT INSTALLATION MANUALS

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 12-01-2012

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Remove and retain the (4) chrome caps from the handlebar clamps. Remove and retain the (4) stock allen head bolts. This hardware will be re-used with the new Billet Tach Mount Kit. Carefully remove the stock handlebar clamps while supporting the handlebars. INSTALLATION: 2. Slide the Electronic Tachometer (#6) into the Billet Tach Mount (#2) and secure with the 10-24 X 1/4″ Socket Set Screw (#10) supplied. Carefully pull the tachometer wire harness through the larger hole in the Billet Tach Cup (#3) and secure the Billet Tach Cup with the 10-24 X 1/8″ Socket Set Screw supplied. (The additional holes in the tach cup are for air circulation). Attach the Billet Tach Mount to the Billet Handlebar Clamp (#1) with the two 10-24 X 1-3/4″ Socket Head Screws (#4) supplied. Install the Billet Tach Mount assembly with the four stock allen head bolts and chrome caps removed in step 1 above. Adjust handlebars to desired height and torque bolts to factory specs. WIRING INSTRUCTIONS: 3. Refer to FIG. #1 . Remove Seat. Disconnect negative cable from battery. Remove fuel tank retaining bolts. Raise fuel tank about 3″-4″ to expose the Left Side Ignition Coil. It is not necessary to completely remove the gas tank on the Road Star. (V-Star 1100 applications use the right front coil and require fuel tank removal.) TIP: Long needle nose pliers are useful in removing and re-installing the coil wires. If desired, tach wire loom may be shortened as necessary. Using an appropriate crimping tool, connect the Tachometer wires in the following manner: Cut Shrink Tubing (#9) into two 1″ pieces

YAMAHA V-Star 1100 Carburetor Bowl Screw Repair and Removal After Stripping and Pilot Cap Removal

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 19-01-2012

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When I first started working on bike many years ago, I learned the danger of stripping the heads of Philips screws when removing or installing them on motorcycles. I remember the two worst screws were the casing side-cover aluminum screws and carburetor bowl screws. I think I tried every method of screw removal after they were stripped. Vice grips, better tipped screwdriver, hammer, drill, and other tools were used. One way I learned to remove stripped screws is to re-make the Philips head into a flathead screw. Cutting a slot in the top of the screw and then use a flat-head screwdriver to remove the screw. On some parts this technique can work, other parts and screws it may not. The Philips screws on the bottom of the V-Star carburetor bowls are VERY prone to stripping. In fact, I will not start a carburetor cleaning without new hex head screws to replace the original Philips bowl screws. Replace the bowl screws for yourself if you keep the bike, or for the next rider that will appreciate the hex-head screws when they clean the carburetors. Not many other parts on a V-Star have screws that are prone to stripping. This documentation is to help riders with motorcycle maintenance. Some riders will find themselves with the problem of removing stripped screws. A carburetor cleaning can quickly double in time when you realize the hardest part of the job is removing bowl screws after they strip. And then realizing you do not have the replacement hex-head screws available and must now go to the hardware store.

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TVS TANK VENT SCRUBBER INSTALLATION, OPERATION And MAINTENANCE MANUAL

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Filed Under (TVS) by admin on 27-10-2010

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INSTALLATION 2.1 Initial Setup After receiving the TVS, remove the packaging materials. Remove the wooden skid secured to the base of the unit and inspect all parts for damage. If any parts are damaged contact shipping company to file claim for damaged equipment. Select a location for the unit where adequate service clearance is provided for replacing the media in the unit. The media is removable from either the top, or the 150 mm port located on the side of the unit. Ample clearance (about 0.5 meters) should also be provided for space for media removal by vacuum. (This may be provided by others). 2.2 Electrical Connections (Optional) An electrical wiring diagram may be necessary and included with these instructions. 230/460 volt, 3 phase systems require a motor starter and disconnect. Refer to the wiring diagram for proper wiring connections. Check for proper motor rotation before operating the unit. All external wiring must be in accordance with National and Local Electrical Codes. Pay particular attention to proper grounding of the unit. 2.3 Media Bed Fill the Tank Vent Scrubber as follows: NOTE: Gloves and a dust mask should be worn when handling media. See MSDS sheet for proper handling requirements. 2.3.1 Remove the cover by loosening the bolts on top of the unit. 2.3.2 Inspect the interior of the tank to be certain it is empty. 2.3.3 Close and secure vacuum discharge port. 2.3.4 Select the correct media type and load the tank to a depth of 610 mm. 2.3.5 Replace the cover by securing the bolts on top of the unit. After 48 to 72 hours of operation, open cover and check media level for settlement. Media level must be 152 mm below lip of tank to reach proper fill requirement. Add media as required

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TVS – 811 Series Trap Valve Station Installation, Operation and Maintenance Instructions

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Filed Under (TVS) by admin on 29-04-2012

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In a piston valve, the control of stem and seat leakage is obtained by tightness of the valve sealing rings to the body and valve plug. The bonnet compresses the valve sealing rings against the body and the valve plug. Flexible disc springs automatically assure a tight seal by exerting pressure on the valve sealing rings, keeping them compressed. Opening and Closing the TVS Isolation Valves The isolation valve begins to stop flow when the valve plug enters the lower valve sealing ring. When the isolation valve is completely closed, the valve plug is in contact with the full height of the valve sealing rings, ensuring the best possible seal. In fact, there is no advantage to be gained in torqueing the valve closed. Armstrong recommends that after closing the isolation valves completely, the handwheel should be turned back one half turn. This makes it easy to re-open the valve by avoiding metal to metal seizure. Troubleshooting – Isolation Valves A piston valve will retain its leak tightness for several years without maintenance. In severe service, such as rapid heating and cooling, some field maintenance may be required. Depending on the problem, these simple steps may help: ! ! ! ! ! Isolation Valve leaks, when the valve is closed . First, Check to make sure the valve is actually closed . Check to see if bonnet is seated on the body, if not, tighten the bonnet nuts until the bonnet seats. This recompresses the valve sealing rings against the body and the valve plug. If valve continues to leak, replace the isolation valve assembly

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