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1989 TOYOTA PAINT CODES AND REFINISH PAINT FORMULA CODES

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 22-10-2011

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A listing of all 1989 Toyota Paint Codes and Color Names, including refinish paint codes for five major automotive paint manufactures – BASF (R-M), Dupont, PPG (Ditzler), Sherwin-Williams (Acme, Rogers, Martin-Senour), and Sikkens, is attached for your reference. Please note: Color numbers 042 and 049 are Tricoats (three-layer paint): base color coat, pearl (mica) coat and clearcoat. All colors listed as pearl or metallic have a clearcoat finish. Sikkens paint formula codes use the abbreviation “Toy” plus the Toyota paint code (for example, the paint formula code for 8G1 is Toy8GI) Martin-Senour paint formula codes are the same as Sherwin Williams codes for all new 1989 colors. Contact your Martin-Senour/NAPA dealer for all carryover 1989 paint formula codes. Please contact your local refinish paint representative if you encounter color match problems or require the actual paint mixing formula.

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1990 TOYOTA PAINT CODES AND REFINISH FORMULA CODES

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 20-10-2011

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Attached for your reference is a listing of all 1990 paint codes and refinish paint codes for five refinish paint manufacturers – BASF, DuPont, PPG Industries, Sherwin Williams and Sikkens. Please Note: All colors listed in bold are new for 1990. Colors listed as Pearl or Metallic (M) have a clearcoat top coat finish. Colors 042 (Pearl White), 049 (Pearl White) and 051 (Diamond White Pearl) are tricoats (three stage paints), consisting of a base color coat, pearl (mica) coat and a clearcoat. Sikkens paint formulas are not separately listed in this bulletin since their paint codes simply add the characters “TOY” to our color codes in their literature. For example: Toyota color code 8D8 (Light Blue Metallic) is identified by Sikkens as “TOY 8D8.” PLEASE CONTACT YOUR LOCAL PAINT REPRESENTATIVE FOR THE ACTUAL PAINT MIXING FORMULAS OR FOR ADDITIONAL ASSISTANCE FOR COLOR MATCHING

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Toyota Body & Paint Preferred Partner Program

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 29-05-2011

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That’s why Toyota has created the innovative Body & Paint Preferred Partner Programme. Having tested a wide range of Body & Paint repair products, Toyota has selected a number of companies whose products are of the highest calibre and offer superior results, and who offer reliable, Europe-wide distribution and support. It recommends that all Toyota Authorised Repairers across Europe use products supplied by these companies. They are of course free to choose which supplier they work with from this list of recommendations. Whilst Toyota has negotiated competitive parameters with each partner, exact contract details should be agreed between the partner and the Toyota Authorised Repairer. The programme allows savings made to be reinvested into further improvement of Body & Paint activities

TOYOTA PREVENTION AND REPAIR OF ACID RAIN DAMAGE ( REVISED)

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 12-10-2011

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it is the responsibility of the dealer to protect and maintain the quality of the vehicle’s finish after receipt at the dealership. Frequent vehicle washing, up to 4 times weekly during high heat and humidity periods, should be performed to minimize the potential for paint damage due to acid rain exposure. This is especially important in areas known for high frequency and concentration of acid rain and industrial fallout. INSPECTION AND REPAIR: Acid rain damage can frequently be identified on vehicles by the presence of visible spots on the paint surface which resemble hard water stains. Unlike water spots, however, acid rain damage cannot be removed by polishing or buffing only. Because acid rain can etch and soften the paint, normal polishing or buffing repair procedures should not be attempted, as this will result in visible depressions in the paint surface. CORRECTIVE ACTION: The repair of acid rain damaged paint surfaces varies depending on how deep the acid has penetrated. Superficial damage can usually be removed by color-sanding and polishing. If the damage extends to a depth greater than 1/2 mil of the clearcoat on a pearl or metallic color, or more than 1 mil of a solid color, sanding and repainting may be necessary. Unfortunately, there is no simple method of determining the actual extent of the acid penetration other than color sanding a representative affected area until there is no visible etching or depressions and then measuring the amount of paint removed with a magnetic type paint film thickness gauge

HARLEY DAVIDSON FRONT FENDER MEDALLION INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 22-03-2011

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Locate the Medallion For XL, Dyna, and FX Softail (includingFXSTDSE): Front Fender Medallion (Kit No. 91194-04) 1. Center medallion on the fender laterally (side to side). 2. Locate the front tip of the medallion 1 3/8 in. (34.9 mm) back from the fender edge, the pin stripe, or two-tone paint line depending on the paint scheme. For Touring and FL Softail: Front Fender Medallion (Kit No. 91195-04) 1. Center medallion on the fender laterally (side to side). 2. Locate the front tip of the medallion 1 3/4 in. (44.5 mm) back from the fender edge, tip trim, tip light, the pin stripe, or two-tone line depending on accessories, trim and paint scheme. Prepare the Fender NOTE For maximum adhesive bond, the fender under and immediately surrounding the medallion must be clean and dry. 1. Clean the surface with a mixture of 50 to 70% isopropyl alcohol and 30 to 50% distilled water. 2. Allow fender to dry thoroughly. NOTE To prevent contamination, apply medallion within minutes. Apply the Medallion 1. With the protective film still in place, trial fit the medallion to the fender and adjust location to accommodate pin striping, two-tone paint, fender tips or lights. NOTE Ambient temperature should be 70 to 100°F (21 to 38°C). 2. Remove the protective film. 3. Carefully locate and center the medallion on the fender. 4. Press the medallion firmly into position. Without shifting the medallion on the fender, push hard with thumbs for about five seconds. 5. After releasing pressure, avoid direct contact with the medallion for at least 20 minutes. NOTE Allow ATLEAST 24 hours before exposing the fender to vigorous washing, strong water spray or extreme weather. The adhesive bond will increase to maximum strength after about 72 hours at normal room temperatures.

TOYOTA ALL MODELS IRON PARTICLE CONTAMINATION REPAIR

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 28-10-2011

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During rail transportation or extended storage near industrial areas, vehicles may occasionally be subjected to contamination by airborne iron particles shed from either railroad tracks, train wheels, etc., or exposure to heavy machinery facilities. These particles can adhere to horizontal painted surfaces of vehicles and quickly corrode when combined with moisture. If not immediately recognized and removed from painted surfaces, they become embedded and cause further paint damage. INSPECTION: This type of contamination can be identified by the presence of small red or brown particles on the paint surfaces. These particles are often difficult to see on dark color paints, but still can be readily felt when brushing a hand or fingernail across horizontal body surfaces such as hood, roof, or decklid. CAUTION: Because of the abrasiveness of these small iron particles, polishing or buffing procedures should not be attempted to repair the paint surface of an affected vehicle. This will result in further paint damage and detract from vehicle appearance. CORRECTIVE ACTION: Washing the affected paint surfaces with an oxalic acid solution is the recommended method to dislodge embedded iron particles and remove the surrounding rust stains. ZEP X-20472 “INDUSTRIAL FALLOUT REMOVER” is one of several commercially pre-mixed oxalic acid wash solutions and is very effective in removing iron particle contamination. The correct usage of oxalic acid solutions is described in this bulletin

HARLEY-DAVIDSON MOTORCYCLE WASH KIT MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 02-03-2011

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THE WASHING PROCESS Allow the motorcycle to cool to the touch. Cool water can damage a hot motorcycle. 1. Pre-Wash: a. Verify the motorcycle is cool to the touch. b. Rinse the motorcycle from the bottom up. c. Verify you have the proper cleaning supplies. d. Spray on Bug Remover and let the product activate while proceeding to the next step. 2. Wheels and Tires: a. Rinse wheel and tire surfaces. b. Apply Wheel and Tire Cleaner. c. Wait one minute after spraying product. d. Clean wheel with a Soft Detailing Pad or Wheel and Spoke Brush. e. Rinse well. 3. The Wash: a. Have two buckets; one for the cleaner and one for rinsing. b. Pour Sunwash into the Harley-Davidson Cleaning Bucket and fill with water. c. Fill the rinsing bucket with clean, plain water. d. Soak the Wash Mitt in the Sunwash solution. e. Wash all surfaces from the top working down. f. Rinse from the bottom up first. g. End with top down rinse. 4. Drying the Motorcycle: a. Use the Soft Drying Towel to dry surfaces of the motorcycle. b. Dampen the towel in clean water. c. Wring out the towel as often as needed and continue until the surface is completely dry. 5. The Polish and Seal : (not applicable for denim paint finishes) Polishing and sealing isn’t just about good looks . A well cared-for motorcycle repels dust, dirt, bugs and dirty water. a. Use Harley Glaze polish and sealant and follow the instructions on the bottle. b. Use Softcloth disposable towels for application. c. A Softcloth or Microfiber detailing cloth is an absolute must for finish buffing. d. In between Harley Glaze applications, use Harley Spray Cleaner and Polish and Harley Gloss to maintain shine and protection of painted and chrome fin- ishes.

1984 KAWASAKI GPz900R Restoration Project

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 01-12-2010

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The paint work on the motorcycle is the original “Red & Gun Metal Grey” but is so badly worn with the outer layer of clear missing and hence all body work requires re-painting. The tank has undergone the usual repair on the left hand side since rust has eaten into the bottom corner from water being in the fuel and the paint has been worn of where the riders legs rub.. The rear tail piece is structurally ok but features worn paint. The right hand side cover has a broken stud and the left hand side cover has a heat warp under the tank. The lower fairing is damaged, the middle fairing is missing one decal on the right hand side and the top fairing has small cracks from a possible accident. The wind screen is worn and faded and will require replacement. The seat has been taped together and requires recovering. Figure 1 Body Work in original state. 1984 GPz900R Schedule of Work 4 of 20 1.2.2 Engine The engine has 90,000 klms on it according to the instruments which appear to be original. The engine was sold with a defective starter clutch as it appears to spin but initial attempts to start the engine failed. A replacement starter clutch is in storage and to refit the part requires that the engine be removed, inverted, bottom engine case removed and all assemblies removed until the starter clutch become accessible rather than a total rebuild. The engine was last run in 2005 and appears to be in good external condition. The condition of the carburetors is unknown but will need to be stripped and cleaned as a service exercise. 1.2.3 Suspension and Brakes On arrival a rust spot with a diameter of 5 cm was noted on the left fork and it was determined that the forks must undergo hard chroming to remove the rust and any chips. The fork seals are damaged but replacements have been supplied. An inspection of the disks revealed worn disks front and rear. New disks are available and will be required. The condition of the brakes appears to be poor but for a bike that has had no services performed this is to be expected. The image below shows the state of the motorcycle at time of purchase

Carbureted vs. Fuel Injected Systems

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 25-10-2010

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fuel injection (FI) systems have been around since the 1950′s and became widely used in cars during the 80′s. By the 1990′s all cars sold in the United States were equipped with FI systems, and though motorcycle manufacturers have included FI systems with some models as early as 1982, it isn’t until recently that the industry has seen wide spread use of FI. Since a lot of people come into my shop with questions about FI, I thought I would point out some of the differences between FI and carbureted systems as well as the benefits and disadvantages of both. A carbureted system is a mechanical system using air pressure to control the flow of fuel through the system. There are three basic parts in a carburetor, the throttle valve, the venturi and the float bowl. The throttle valve controls the amount of air that flows into the throat of the carburetor also known as the venturi which is simply a tapered hole through the carburetor body. As the venturi narrows, air moving through it is forced to speed up creating low pressure inside the carburetor. In a siphoning effect as the air tries to equalize the pressure, fuel is drawn in from the float bowl mixing with the air before entering the engine. The wider open the throttle valve, the more air will flow, drawing more fuel. A number of circuits are built into the carburetor in order to control the amount of air/fuel being drawn into the engine. In this context a circuit refers to a fuel passageway as opposed to an electrical circuit. In fact, nothing electrical controls fuel delivery in a carbureted system, it is all based on fluid flow, vacuum and hydraulics. The different circuits represent various throttle positions such as idle, partially open and fully open, and each of these circuits can be tuned to modify the efficiency of fuel delivery to the system. Fuel injection (FI) systems, on the other hand, rely on an electronic fuel pump to deliver fuel. The fuel pump delivers fuel at around 50psi as opposed to carbureted systems at normal atmospheric pressure of about 15psi. When the fuel reaches the injectors, the higher pressure allows much finer atomization (creating mist) of the fuel. The injectors then spray the atomized fuel into the intake manifold in a uniform conical pattern. The uniform pattern and fine atomization of the fuel spray increase the efficiency in which it is burned

BLACK POWDER COATED ANTI-VIBRATION PEGS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 21-12-2010

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These pegs, mounts and hardware have a nickel/chrome base coat under the satin black powder coat finish. This is done to prevent any rust or corrosion at the wear points. Its is normal for some of the black powder coating to wear off (exposing the nickel/chrome base) where the pegs pivot on the mounting blocks and on the bolt heads. Again this is normal and they will not rust at these points. If desired the satin black finish can be touched up using a satin black model or spray paint.

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