replacing push rod on 2006 honda 350 rancher

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Harley Davidson Five Speed Transmissions Hydraulic Clutch Modification

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 31-10-2010

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Hydraulic Clutch Modification for Harley Davidson With Champion Reverse Gear 1 1.1 Install Reverse Gear Assembly to gearbox. 1.2 Remove clutch cover (left side). 1.3 Remove Release Plate (clutch adjustment) and Push Rods. 1.4 Install Hydraulic Clutch Release Cover with supplied spacer and two gaskets. 1.5 Bleed clutch system. NOTE: When bleeding clutch system, lever feel will become hard, do not force lever because piston is at end of travel.(Continue Bleeding) 2 2.1 Install Push Rod. 2.2 Push the rod into clutch assembly to force hydraulic piston to its start position. Push the rod hard until the clutch cylinder is fully compressed. This is the start position. 2.3 Install Hydraulic Clutch Throw-Out Bearing Holder and bearing to push rod. Do not install circlip at this time. 2.4 If the throw-out bearing holder does not fully seat into the Pressure Plate (Figure 2.4), proceed to step 2.5. If shaft is too short then use throw-out bearing holder from Champion Reverse Gear Kit, skip next step and proceed to 3.0 2.5 Measure distance between bearing holder and pressure plate (ensure that push rod is pushed in) Figure 2.4 2.6 Remove bearing holder and push rod, reinstall bearing holder until seated (without push rod). Measure distance from pressure plate to bearing holder. Figure 2.6 2.7 Add measurements taken in steps 2.5 and 2.6 2.8 Add 0.090″ to total of step 2.7 (allowance for clutch plate wear). Measurement should be approximately 1/8″. 2.9 Measure push rod length. 2.10 Subtract measurement of step 2.8 from measurement of step 2.9 (push rod length). This measurement represents the amount of material to be removed from ball end of push rod. (Step 2.11)

Yamaha V-Star 1100 Custom and Classic cruisers Floorboard/ Footpeg Extension Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-11-2010

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Start on the right (brake) side. 1) Loosen the nut at the end of the brake rod. This will allow you to unscrew the brake rod from the brake lever clevis later. 2) Pull out the cotter pin and remove the pivot pin. Unscrew the clevis 3) Then using a 14mm socket or box-end wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the brake floorboard/footpeg assembly (whichever your bike has) to the frame. These bolts are torqued to 46 ft lbs, so this may be a bit difficult. 1. Loosen this nut 2. Remove the cotter pin (other side of this pivot pin) remove the pivot pin a unscrew the nut to remove the clevis nd 3. Remove these bolts When you remove the floorboard/footpeg bracket, be careful not to pull the brake switch wires loose. You may wish to cut the cable tie for more room, and then rest the bracket, with the footpeg or floorboard attached, on a short box, or block of wood, to keep it handy. Install the new brake rod, to the end of the existing brake rod. Re-install the pivot pin, and the pivot pin cotter pin. Installing the extension bar: Note that the extension bar is bolted so that it rises up in front. Use the new bolts to mount the floorboard/ footpeg bracket to the threaded holes in front. Install the Extension in the proper orientation (angled holes bolt up to the frame, with front of the bar higher than the rear – see photo) using the stock bolts for the extensions to the frame and the new bolts and washers supplied with the kit, on the forward threaded section to relocate the floorboard or footpeg bracket. The use of LocTite ® Blue here is recommended. At this point the right side Floorboard or Footpeg should be secured tightly and the brake lever hanging loose. Now install the Brake rod extension, threading the male end to the original brake rod. Don’t tighten this end yet Place the clevis over the forward most end of the brake rod extension, and threat the clevis nut onto the end of the rod. Bring the brake rod upright, to meet with the clevis at the end of the brake rod extension and replace the pivot pin. Before reinstalling the cotter pin, check the angle of the brake lever, to insure that you have the brake pedal where you want. If necessary, adjust the extension rod in or out, until you are satisfied, and then reinstall the cotter pin into the pivot pin. Check the Brake switch wire and install a new cable tie if required. Note: Due to utilizing a thicker material, 1/2″ versus 3/8″ from our competitor, the Brake rod is now positioned at a greater angle. Even with the angle, braking performance is not affected, but if you wish to bring the master cylinder in line with the brake rod, do this. Loosen the rear, and remove the front Allen bolt. Then place two washers behind the front bolt, under the bracket, and then re-install the bolts To change the angle of the brake rod, 1) loosen and remove the two master cylinder bracket Allen bolts 2) insert two washers behind the front bolt (front of the bike), behind the master cylinder bracket 3) tighten both bolts. Do not install any washers on the rear mounting hole. This will make the angle of the Brake Rod less aggressive. Step Two – Left Side For the left (Shifter) side, 1) use an open-end 10 mm wrench, to unscrew the two nuts that hold the shift rod in place. PLEASE note that one end of the shift rod has a left hand threaded nut. SAVE the nuts, as you will need them on the new longer Polished Stainless Steel Shift Rod. 2) Remove the stock shift rod. 3) Then using a 14mm socket or box-end wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the shifter floorboard/footpeg assembly (whichever your bike has) to the frame.

SUSPENSION SERVICE TOOLS/ FORK DAMPER ROD BLEED TOOL

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 30-11-2010

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33 SHOP EQUIPMENT & TOOLS SUSPENSION SERVICE TOOLS K&L FORK TUBE U-BLOCKS Precision machined from billet aluminum, these quality three piece sets are a handy, accurate and safe way to straighten and check fork tubes. 35-9411 36mm (for 33 thru 36mm tubes) 35-9412 40mm (for 37 thru 40mm tubes) 35-9413 43mm (for 41 thru 43mm tubes) 35-9414 46mm (for 44 thru 46mm tubes) 35-1964 35-8579 35-7995 DAMPER ROD HOLDERS Holds damper rod when disassembling forks. 35-8578 Yamaha front forks, 43mm Kayaba YZ125/250 (1988) YZ490 (88-90) 35-8579 Yamaha YZ125/250 with UD(upside down) forks FORK DAMPER ROD TOOLS Sold each. 35-7995 Combination Fork Damper Tool Designed to hold the damper rod during assembly & disassembly of Honda XR400′s or Suzuki DR-Z400S. One end features spanner type prongs for the XR400 and the other a 27mm hex for Suzuki. 35-1964 Combination Damper Rod Fork Tool Designed for assembly and disassembly of most inverted Kayaba and Showa 41mm, 43mm, 46, and 47mm forks. Use one end for Kayaba forks and the other for Showa forks. (not required for 91-92 Honda CR models) ROD HOLDER Double sided damper rod holder. Works on Kayaba U.D (upside down) 41mm forks. 35-8580 Yamaha YZ125/250Amodels (89-90) FRONT FORK CAP SOCKET Designed to remove and install Yamaha front fork caps with female hex head. Sold each. 35-8571 14mm female socket 35-8573 19mm female socket FORK DAMPER ROD HOLDERS Holds damper rod when disassembling and assembling front forks. 35-8576 Use for Yamaha 43mm Kayaba forks, 30mm hex YZ125 (84-87), YZ250 (81-87) IT250 (1983) YZ490 (82-87) 35-8577 Use for Yamaha 38mm Kayaba forks, 24mm hex YZ125 (81-83), IT175 (82-83), IT250 (81-82) YZ250 (77-80), YZ400 (77-79), IT465 (81-82) FORK CAP WRENCH Designed to remove the front fork caps on late model Honda CR’s and Suzuki RM’s. Can also be used for adjusting compression. One end of wrench is 49mm, the other is 50mm. Sold each. 35-7803 Fork Cap Wrench 35-8576 35-8577 35-8571 35-8573 6 Point Hex 35-8578

HARLEY DAVIDSON ALUMINUM SHIFTER LINKAGE REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 15-02-2011

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REMOVAL 1. See Figure 1. Remove stock shifter rod (D). 2. Adjust new shifter rod in kit to match the length of the removed shifter rod by loosening locknuts (3), adjusting the length of the rod, then tightening locknuts to 20-24 ft- lbs (27-32 Nm) . 3. For models with a straight rear shifter rod lever: Discard spacer (7). Place cover (1) over the shifter rod lever (C). For models with an offset rear shifter rod lever: Place spacer (7) and cover (1) over the shifter rod lever (C). INSTALLATION 1. Apply Loctite® 243 to threads of capscrew (5) and install cap screw through the rear of the shifter rod and into the shifter rod lever. Tighten cap screw to 13-16 ft-lbs (18-22 Nm) . 2. For 1999 and later FLHT, FLHX, FLHR, and FXDWG models: Place the rod end on the outside of the shifter lever, then apply Loctite® 243 to the threads of capscrew (5). Attach the front of the shifter rod (6) to the shifter lever with capscrew (5) and acorn nut (4) (with acorn nut facing out). Tighten acorn nut (4) to 13-16 ft-lbs (18-22 Nm) . For all models except 1999 and later FLHT, FLHX, FLHR, and FXDWG: Place the rod end on the inside of the shifter lever then apply Loctite® 243 to the threads of cap screw (5). Attach the front of the shifter rod (6) to the shifter lever with cap screw and acorn nut (4). Tighten acorn nut (4) to 13-16 ft-lbs (18-22 Nm)

HONDA 420 RANCHER 2×4/4×4 2007-2009 CLUTCH KIT INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 22-12-2011

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Remove key from the ignition switch. Remove the side panels from both sides. Remove both foot wells. 2. Drain coolant. Remove the oil drain plug from the motor; if you carefully drain it into a clean container you should be able to reuse it. 3. Disconnect shift motor (on electric shift models only). Remove coolant hoses. 4. Remove the bolts that mount the front differential to the frame, no other parts need to be removed. Carefully slide the front differential towards the front of the machine; you might need to lift up slightly to get the differential to move. Remove the drive shaft. Remove o-ring on output shaft (on motor). 5. Remove the fuel pump. 6. Loosen the front crankcase cover bolts, keep track of each bolt length and location. Slowly remove the crankcase cover. Carefully watch for o-ring shims and dowel pins that may fall out. 7. Unstake the nut holding the clutch on and remove nut. Using Honda tool #07933-HB3000A thread the large part of the tool into the center of the clutch. Tighten the center bolt on the tool while holding the large part of the tool with a wrench. This will pull the clutch off the machine. Place the clutch on a clean work surface. EPI performance.com
8. Using the c-clamps push down slightly on the outside cover and remove the four e-clips. Keeping track of which way they come off, remove the round metal plates one at a time. This will allow you to see the complete spring. Remove one end of each spring using a spring tool or needle nose pliers and then remove springs. Install the EPI springs by inserting the spring into the outer edge first. Using a spring tool or pliers (45 degree bent pliers work well) pull on the spring and insert the end into the hole. Install the metal plates and the e-clips. If you can’t get the plates to sit flat make sure each clutch arm is flat against the bottom plate of the clutch. Occasionally when you put the springs on, the clutch arms will pop up. Slide the clutch into the machine. The Sprague clutch is marked “outside” when installing make sure this is facing out. Torque clutch nut to 87 ft/lbs. 9. Clean the gasket surface on the motor and on the cover. Put a thin layer of Honda Bond or Yamabond semi-drying liquid gasket (or something similar as long as it is semi-drying) on the crankcase cover. Carefully install crankcase cover, do not force cover on. Torque bolts to 9 ft/lbs. 10. Install the fuel pump. 11. Install the o-ring on the output shaft (on motor) and install the drive shaft. Carefully slide the front differential back into place and mount to the frame. Install the coolant hoses. Refill your engine coolant to the proper level according to your owner’s manual. 12. Install the oil drain plug. Refill your engine to the proper level according to your owner’s manual. You can reuse your oil if it is clean and was drained into a clean container. Only use manufactures recommended oil. 13. Be sure to double check coolant and oil levels and to look for any leaks after the machine has run for a few minutes. 14. Go out and ride your machine. If your performance doesn’t seem right double check to make sure everything has been done properly. 15. EPI is constantly testing our products. Sometimes there is a need to contact the user with new technical information. To ensure that you are receiving this information visit our web site EPIperformance.com to register your clutch kit.

2006 Honda RC51 OWNER’S MANUAL

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 08-11-2011

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When you own a Honda, you’re part of a worldwide family of satisfied customerspeople who appreciate Honda’s reputation for building quality into every product.Before riding, take time to get acquainted with your motorcycle and how it works. To protect your investment, we urge you to take responsibility for keeping yourmotorcycle well maintained. Scheduled service is a must, of course. But it’s just as important to observe the break-inmguidelines, and perform all pre-ride andother periodic checks detailed in this manual. We also recommend that you read this owner’s manual before you ride. It’s full of facts, instructions, safety information, and helpful tips. To make it easy to use, the manual contains a detailed list of topics at the beginning of each section, and both an in-depth table of contents and an index at the back of the book. As you read this manual, you will find information that is preceded by a symbol. This information is intended to help you avoid damage to your Honda, other property, or the environment.

Honda 2007-2010 Rancher 420 ATV Rear Bumper Installation

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 22-12-2011

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Honda Rancher 420 ATV Rear Bumper (2007-2010) Installation Instructions 1. Attach top bumper attachments to top rack. 2. Attach the rear bumpers lower attachment point to vertical bars

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HARLEY DAVIDSON SPORTSTER ALUMINUM SHIFT LINKAGE KITS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 10-03-2011

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INSTALLATION 1. See Figure 1. Remove stock capscrews (4) and stock shifter rod (2). Discard stock capscrews. 2. See Figure 2 and Table 2. Loosen the lock nuts (5) and turn the rod ends on the new aluminum shifter rod (1) to match the length of the stock shifter rod. 3. See Figure 2 and Table 2. Slide longer capscrew (3) through the front rod end of new shifter rod (1). Place rod on the outside of the lever assembly. Thread capscrew (3) into the lever assembly. 4. Slide shorter capscrew (2) through the rear rod end of new shifter rod (1). Place rod on the outside of the transmission shift lever. Thread capscrew (2) into the transmission shift lever. 5. Tighten capscrews to 10-15 ft-lbs (13.6-20.3 N-m) . 6. Firmly tighten the lock nuts (5) against the rod ends to 20- 24 ft-lbs (27.1-32.5 Nm) . 1 4 2 4 3 is05394 1. Lever assembly 2. Shifter rod 3. Transmission shift lever 4. Capscrew Figure 1. Shift Linkage Components

2000 Honda Rancher ATV Winch Mounting Kit REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 13-01-2012

Begin by removing the front fascia and front skid plate on the vehicle as shown in figure 1. Save the fasteners as they will be used later to re-install the front fascia and skid plate. 2. Remove the 8mm bolts on both sides located inside the front tires and on the ends of two horizontal tubes on the front tube frame as shown in figure 2. 3. Place the mounting plate (A1) inside the front tube frame. The tabs with the slotted holes facing down. The slotted tabs should align where the
two 8mm bolts were removed in step 2. Reinstall these two bolts at this time thighten to just fingertight. Install the two 1/4-20 u-bolts (B3) and locking hex nuts (B1) and flat washers (B7) at thism time see figure 3, do not tighten down at this time. so the plate can be adjusted for position see figure 2. 4. Place the rear support bracket (A4) into position
and attach with the two 5/16-18 x 3/4 hex cap screws (B6), flat washer (B5) and locking nut (B4). Adjust the position of the support bracket so that it comes in contact with the frame tubes and tighten the fasteners see figures 3 and 4.
Make sure the support bracket maintains contact with the rear frame tubes and tighten down the two front 8mm mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to a recommended torque of 12 ft-lb (17 N-m). 5. Attach the fairlead bracket support (A2) to the front frame tubes see figure 5. The support bracket attaches behind the front tubes. Space the bracket away from the tubes using the spacer brackets (A3). Attach the brackets using the 1/4- 20 u-bolts (B2), lock nuts (B1) and flat washers (B7). Before tightening the u-bolts make sure the bracket is in the correct position by fitting the front
fasica into postion and checking location. Tighten the nuts to a recommended torque of 7 ft-lb (10 N-m). NOTE: If this kit is being installed on a 00 to 03 Honda the wider fairlead bracket (A2) will need to be used. This will require the use of the
wider u-bolts (B3). The spacer brkts (A3) will not be required when installing the wider fairlead brkt

HONDA ATV Carburetor Repair Kits Installation

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 21-12-2011

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ATV Carburetor Repair Kits Complete kits to rebuild one OEM carburetor. Each kit contains necessary gaskets/o-rings, needle valve or needle valve set, and jets. Made in Japan. Note: Check all parts before installation. Honda Model Year Order No AT C70 78-85 025-001 AT C90 70-71 025-003 ATC90K1/K2/K3 72-75 025-003 AT C90 76-78 025-003 TRX90 Fourtrax 90 93-98 025-084 ATC110 79-83 025-005 ATC110 84-85 025-061 ATC125M 84-85 025-062 TRX125 Fourtrax 85-86 025-050 TRX125 Fourtrax 87-88 025-063 ATC185 1980 025-009 ATC185S 81-83 025-009 AT C200 81-82 025-008 AT C200 1983 025-009 ATC200E Big Red 82-83 025-064 ATC200ES Big Red 1984 025-064 AT C200M 84-85 025-064 AT C200S 84-86 025-065 AT C200X 83-85 025-012 AT C200X 86-87 025-014 TRX200 Fourtrax 200 90-91 025-066 TRX200D Fourtrax 200 Type II 1991 025-066 TRX200D Fourtrax 200 Type II 92-93 025-067 TRX200D Fourtrax 200 Type II 94-97 025-068 TRX200SX Fourtrax 87-88 025-069 ATC250R 81-82 025-017 ATC250R 83-84 025-018 AT C250R 1985 025-019 ATC250ES Big Red 85-87 025-029 AT C250SX 1985 025-070 TRX250 Fourtrax 250 1985 025-071 TRX250 Fourtrax 250 86-87 025-072 TRX250EX Sportrax 250EX 01-04 025-085 TRX250R Fourtrax 250R 86-87 025-060 TRX250R Fourtrax 250R 1988 025-073 TRX250X 91-92 025-074 TRX300 Fourtrax 300 1988 025-075 TRX300 Fourtrax 300 91-92 025-076 TRX300 Fourtrax 300 93-95 025-078 Honda Model Year Order No TRX300EX Fourtrax 300EX 93-98 025-081 TRX300FW Fourtrax 300 4×4 1988 025-075 TRX300FW Fourtrax 300 4×4 91-92 025-076 TRX300FW Fourtrax 300 4×4 93-95 025-078 AT C350X 1985 025-035 TRX350 Fourtrax 4×4 86-87 025-079 TRX350FE Fourtrax Rancher 4×4 ES 00-03 025-082 TRX350FM Fourtrax Rancher 4×4 00-03 025-082 TRX350TE Fourtrax Rancher ES 00-03 025-082 TRX350TM Fourtrax Rancher 00-03 025-082 TRX350D Fourtrax Foreman 4×4 87-89 025-079 TRX400FW Fourtrax Foreman 95-00 025-080 TRX450ES Fourtrax Foreman ES 98-01 025-083 TRX450FE Fourtrax Foreman ES 02-03 025-083 TRX450FM Fourtrax Foreman S 02-03 025-083 TRX450S Fourtrax Foreman S 98-01 025-083 TRX500FAFourtrax Rubicon 01-04 025-086

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