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Daytona 675, Street Triple Street Triple R Fitting Instruction

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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remove the original gear selector rod from the motorcycle. Note: The ball joint and locknut on the transmission linkage have a left hand thread. This is identified by either a machined ring on the gear selector rod on Daytona 675 or on the ball joint on Street Triple and Street Triple R. 1. Front ball joint 2. Locknut 3. Gear selector rod 4. Machined ring, left hand thread identification 5. Machined ring, left hand thread identification (StreetTriple and Street Triple R) 6. Remove the front and rear ball joints and front locknut only from the gear selector rod. Retain the locknut and both ball joints for re-use. Retain the gear selector rod if the motorcycle is to be returned to its original condition. 7. Remove the plastic end caps from the quickshifter assembly. 8. Screw the locknut on to the rear of the quickshifter assembly (right hand thread) leaving 8mm of thread exposed. 1. Quick shifter assembly 2. Locknut 9. Screw the rear ball joint (right hand thread) on to the rear of the quickshifter assembly until it contacts the locknut. Unscrew the ball joint, only enough to achieve the correct orientation in relation to the quickshifter cable, as shown below. Finger tighten the locknut at this stage. 1. Ball joint 2. Quickshifter assembly 3. Locknut 4. Quickshifter cable 10. Fit the locknut and front ball joint (left hand thread) to the front of the quickshifter assembly Screw the locknut and ball joint on to the quickshifter assembly to achieve a dimension between the ball joint ends of 203.5 mm. Ensure that the ball joint is in the correct orientation to the quickshifter cable, as shown below. Finger tighten the locknut at this stage. 1. Ball joint 2. Quickshifter assembly 3. Locknut 4. Quickshifter cable 12. Route the quickshifter cable through the gear selector rod aperture in the frame, as shown. 1. Quickshifter cable 2. Gear selector rod aperture 13. Locate the quickshifter assembly in position, through the frame with the sensor at the rear and the cable at the top. 1. Quick shifter assembly 2. Sensor 14. Attach the front ball joint to the transmission linkage. 1. Ball joint 2. Transmission linkage

Ktm 690 SM/ SMC/ SMR/ Duke Removal and Installation weld slag

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 04-03-2012

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1. Each bike varies with regard to welds and gussets. Review the photos first to get the idea of what needs to be done. 2. These photos may not be your exact model but depict the concept of what must be done. 3. Block the front tire securely before removing the top triple clamp so the tire cannot move at all. See photos. 4. Support the rear tire also, just enough to keep tension on the front tire so the forks stay tight. 5. Warning: Once the triple clamp is loose, the forks can roll away from the bike AND it happens very quickly . 6. The main triple clamp nut adjusts the tension on the steering head bearings. Make note of its tension before removing and do not over tighten the nut. It should be seated just enough to take the play out of the bearing.. 7. The top of the gauge/light cluster is mounted to the top triple clamp. You have to take out 4 self tapping Phillips head screws to remove the gauge pod. There is one connector on the back side of that and then it comes off. Then there are two bolts that need to come out with an 8mm wrench to free the top triple clamp. 8. Loosen the triple clamp pinch bolt under the main nut and forks pinch bolts and remove the top triple clamp, taking note of how tight the main nut is, so you can re-tighten it to the exact amount. Remove the tin bearing shroud (cover) and rubber seal making note of how the seal goes on, (lips face downward). 9. Grease your bearings while you have them exposed. (Keep the grease off the area where our frame bracket mounts!). 10. The goal is to allow the frame bracket to clamp cleanly and squarely around the upper half of the head tube. 11. Review your individual bike’s welding characteristics at the head tube. You’ll notice on the head tube there is a “groove” machined 360 degrees around the head tube. Everything in or above this groove must be clean of welds or slag. If this groove is visible all the way around and no welding slag has extended upward into or past this groove, then you’re installation should be easy. Any welds extending into or above this groove must be filed away, but without changing the clamping area diameter. DO NOT file away the paint on the clamping area if possible. Spend a little more time filing carefully and your bracket will stay tight. 12. Each bike seems to have not only different welds, but slightly different gussets. Evaluate your individual bike to determine the best fit. The bracket must clamp squarely and cleanly to the area just above that groove and yet SIT FLUSH all the way around the diameter of the head tube as per the photo in the lower right corner. Do not allow the bracket to protrude above the seal seating surface. Use a flashlight to see up under the bracket where it’s hitting if it’s not Flush. This bracket has clearance cut into it to clear the backbone of the frame

Harley Davidson 2004-Up Sportster EZ-Steer Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 16-02-2011

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Installation Notes • Remove front fender, wheel, brake caliper, and fork tubes. • Remove all components attached to stock triple clamps, then the triple clamps themselves. • Remove upper and lower bearings including race. • Install new steering stem bearing races into neck. • Install new upper steering stem bearing with seal into neck. • Install Top and Bottom triple clamps into neck and snug steering stem bolt with washer. • Remove fork tube cap from both forks. • Install fork extensions with o-ring into fork tubes and tighten until fully seated. • Install fork tube caps with o-rings and tighten (see torque table). • Slide fork tubes into triple clamps until the top of each tube cap extends 0.42-0.50 in. above top surface of upper triple clamp. • Tighten 3/8-16 x 1.5″ bolts on upper triple clamp (see torque table). • Tighten steering stem bolt (see torque table). • Tighten pinch bolts on lower triple clamp (see torque table). • Install front wheel assembly and front brake caliper. • Install front fender. Item # Part Description Torque Spec (Lb. Ft.) – Fork Tube Cap 22-58 8 Bolt, Steering Stem, SP 30-35 11 3/8 – 16 X 1.5″ Socket Head Cap Screw 30-35 EZ-Steer Maintenance The bearings in your EZ-Steer rake kit are normal wear items, not subject to replacement under Champion’s one year Limited Warranty for the product. Failure to follow your motorcycle manufacturer’s recommendations for periodic OEM triple-tree maintenance will accelerate the wear on these bearings. Checking/adjustment of the steering stem nut torque with the front end lifted, in accordance with your motorcycle manufacturer’s recommendations, is important to reliable bearing service. Windshield Notes Please note that this EZ-Steer kit accommodates all known windshield types with the exception of a minor modification to Quick Release Compact Windshield, example part no. 58063-04. You will need to oblong the lower bolt holes as shown in figure

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Triumph TT 600 Installation instructions

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 28-10-2010

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1) It is essential to use Blue Loc-tite on all setscrews and bolts or they will come loose. 2) Remove the stock 30mm nut AND washer , that holds the top triple clamp tight and discard them. 3) Install the new aluminum nut supplied in the kit with the Hex drive facing up and torque to 45 ft. lbs. or more. 4) Install the new “triple clamp damper mount” (TC mount), the part with 6 set screws in it , over the main triple clamp nut with the “machined register” (lip) indexing over the back of the triple clamp (see photo below). Tip to save time: Before installation, using Loc-tite, start all the setscrews first, until flush with the inside bore. 5) Be sure this damper mounting bracket is setting flush on the triple clamp surface all the way around. This part is machined precisely to fit over the stock triple clamp. Due to the fact the stock triple clamp is cast, they could vary is size. Remove or trim around any obstructions that might prevent the TC mount from sitting down flush such as carbon fiber deco plates. 6) Loc-tite and engage the setscrew at the 12 o’clock (front) position first so it pulls the “register up against the back of your triple clamp. Do not tighten this setscrew, just snug it enough to secure the position of the TC mount. 7) Loc-tite and tighten the remaining setscrews evenly until they make contact with the groove and are secured tightly. It’s a good idea to check the setscrews after the first ride as they will seat into their final position and need re-tightening. 8) Tip to save time: Before installation, using Loc-tite start all the setscrews first, until flush with the inside bore. 9) (Note: You must use some heat to compromise the Loc-tite before trying to remove the setscrews or the small Allen head setscrews can be stripped easily). 10) Remove the stock front fuel tank retaining bolt and washer. You must use the longer 6×30 bolt provided . 11) Retain the rubber bushing and the spacer-washer that fits inside the rubber bushing for your tank mount. 12) The gas tank mounting hole is actually off-center from the factory on this bike, by only 1mm or so, so our frame bracket has a slot instead of hole so you can make fine adjustments in the alignment of the frame bracket. 13) Install the frame bracket so the “feet” that contact the frame are positioned to match the frame. View the photo below to see how it should look and remain straight with the front edge of the gas tank. There is a front and back to this part. 14) We’ve machined this frame bracket precisely to match the Triumph frame, so as the bolt tightens up it will pre-load the frame bracket just enough to secure it tightly to the frame. 15) Remember, under heavy braking your entire body weight is pushing the tank forward. Until you have verified sufficient clearance between the tank and the frame bracket, put something between the tank and frame bracket to protect the tank. Each bike will vary as to how much movement there actually is under heavy braking 16) Grease the tower-pin lightly and drop it in the tower-pin hole. It is designed to “float”. Keep the hole and shaft portion of the tower pin greased for easy movement. 17) Install the stabilizer using (2) 6×20 Allens. The link arm slot aligns with the flats on the tower pin. 18) Read your damper manual for initial settings on the controls.

1996-2003 KAWASAKI ZX7R INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1) It is mandatory to use blue Loc-tite on all bolts. We promise they will come loose if you don’t. 2) Remove the large nut and washer that holds your triple clamp on. Install the new nut that we provide which has HEX drive facing UP. You will NOT use the stock washer. 3) Torque the new nut to your factory recommended setting as they vary. Normally a minimum of 50-80 ft lbs. 4) Install the new triple clamp damper mount (TC mount) over the new triple clamp nut with the “machined register” (the small knub) indexing into the matching groove on the top, back of your stock triple clamp. The knub insures the mount cannot spin should the damper try to loosen the main nut. 5) Be sure this TC mount is setting down flush on the triple clamp surface all the way around. This part is machined precisely to fit over the Scotts triple clamp nut. The groove machined into the nut is positioned so once the set screws are tightened, it will suck the TC mount down against your triple clamp. Remove any obstructions that would not allow the TC mount to sit flush against your stock triple clamp surface. 6) Tip to save time: Before installation, using Loc-tite start all the setscrews first, until flush with the inside bore. 7) Using blue loc-tite on the setscrews, run them all in against the nut equally and then proceed to tighten each one making your way around until they are all equally tight. They should be checked after the first ride as normally they will settle into the groove in the nut and require tightening. 8) (Note: You must use some heat to compromise the Loc-tite before trying to remove the setscrews or the small Allen head setscrews can be stripped easily). 9) Remove the two, stock-front tank retaining bolts. You will replace these with longer ones in the kit. 10) Install the new “frame bracket tower”. There is a front and back to this part, note the picture! 11) Install the longer tank bolts supplied, through our frame bracket and into your tank mounting holes. 12) Grease the tower pin and drop it in the tower pin hole. It is designed to “float” and requires no retaining devices. Keep the tower pin and hole portion greased lightly. 13) Install the damper using the (2) 6×20 Allens. The link arm slot aligns with the flats on the tower pin. 14) Read your damper manual for initial settings on the controls. The damper is infinitely adjustable and totally up to the user to find their preference. Start with softer (counter clockwise) settings. Normally where we set the unit is a good starting point, usually 8 clicks out on the base valve. 15) The base valve controls the immediate feel of damping forces exerted

Ktm 950 SMR Installation and Removal Manual

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 27-01-2012

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Be sure the triple clamp in your kit has a part # 3012R- 27 -6-0208 on the bottom side. This is very important. 2. Warning: Once the triple clamp is loose, the forks can roll away from the bike . Block it up properly to start with. 3. Block the front tire securely before removing the top triple clamp, so the tire cannot move forward. It’s best to tie the forks up to something above you, like the rafters, using tie downs, or a tie down from the front axle up and over the frame backbone and then underneath the lower triple clamp. Once the forks start to come off while working, it’s extremely difficult to get them back together without help. Block the back wheel up also, so it puts pressure on the front end, forcing it to stay in position. Spend the time setting this up correctly and your installation will go easier. 4. This kit requires removal of the headless “Security” bolts that hold the key switch in place. These bolts will need to be drilled out in order to remove them, pictures below. Removal is fairly easy, if you follow these instructions. 5. Examine all the wire and cable routing before removal and make notes of where everything goes. 6. Remove 2 bolts that hold the headlight shroud in place. Be careful not to lose the small bushings that fall out easily. 7. Follow the wire from the ignition switch to the wire loom in the headlight shroud and unplug it. There is no locking tab on this plug so you can usually undo it without having to disassemble the wiring. 8. Remove the 4 bolts that hold your bars tight and lay the bars forward out of the way (Bungie or tie to the front of bike). 9. Be sure the front end is securely blocked or tied to something above the bike. Remove the top triple clamp, taking note of how tight the 27mm main nut is, so you can re-tighten to the exact tension for the bearing. The main nut merely provides the correct tension on the head tube bearing, so the tension is critical. The nut will NOT be tight coming off. Once the fork and triple clamp pinch bolts are loose, the main nut can be removed. It’s difficult to get a wrench on the main nut. We were able to sneak the stock KTM axle wrench in there, otherwise, you may have to loosen the lower bar perches using an 8mm Allen wrench and a 17mm socket for the underside nuts. Once the main nut is off, lift the triple clamp off carefully , trying not to disturb the blocked-front-wheel. A rubber mallot is helpful here

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Harley-Davidson 39mm Fork FXR, FXD, XL from 87 to Current, Light Bar N935 & N935E INSTALLATION AND OWNER'S MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 09-03-2012

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1. Remove Headlight from Headlight Shell (Screwdriver) set aside. 2. Disconnect Turnsignal wires behind or inside Headlight Shell. 3. Unbolt Headlight Shell from Eyebrow (3/4″ Socket & Wrench). Let hang from wires. 4. Remove front Turnsignal Assemblies from motorcycle. 4a. If Turnsignals are mounted to the Handlebar use the 1/2″ Wrench. 4b. For fork mounted Turnsignals, 1996 to current, use the Torx Wrench 4c. For fork mounted Turnsignals 1987-92 use the 5/16 Hex Key Set turnsignals aside, they will not be reused. 5. Remove screw from Brake Hose Clamp and Clutch Cable Guide (Hex Key Wrench, 3/16″) located on the bottom of the lower Triple Clamp. Set aside, it will not be reused. 6 . Remove the Pinch Bolts from the lower Triple Clamp (Torx Wrench, 1993 to Current, or 5/16 Hex Key, 1987 to 92). Set aside, they will not be reused. INSTALLATION 1. Mount the Light Bar Assembly: A. Hold the Light Bar assembly up to the lower Triple Clamp, the center bracket will be below the Triple Clamp. B. Start the 1/4-20 x 3/4 Screw, with Washer, through the Brake Hose Clamp, clutch cable guide then the center bracket and into the threaded hole previously used for the Brake Hose Clamp. C. Position a Spacer between the Outer Brackets and the Triple Clamp and start the 3/8-16 x 2″ Hex Bolts through the Outer Bracket, then the Spacer and into the Pinch bolt location on the lower Triple Clamp. Do this on both sides of the lower Triple Clamp.

2000-2002 Aprilia Falco INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 26-10-2010

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1) It is a good idea to use Blue Loc-tite on all bolts you are about to remove and replace. 2) This kit has extremely close tolerances and in order for all the parts to clear the triple clamp and gas tank, you will probably have to loosen and align most of the associated bolts. We have tried very hard to make this as compact as possible but we know the factory varies quite a bit from bike to bike. Be patient, the results are worth it. 3) Remove the large 14mm Allen nut and washer that holds your triple clamp on. You will not re-use either part. 4) Install the new “Triple clamp damper mount” Part # 22-2919-00 into the recess area where the stock, Allen-head bolt was sitting. There is a machined recess or washer on the bottom of our mount to match the recess on your triple clamp. The 2 knubs that hang downward, should match the rear contour of your triple clamp precisely. Use loc-tite and retighten the 14mm Allen nut, without any washer, to your factory specs, usually a minimum of 35 ft lbs. and a maximum of 85 ft.lbs. 5) Grease the tower pin and drop it in the tower pin hole portion of the frame bracket. The tower pin is designed to “float” and requires no retaining devices. Keep the tower pin lightly greased! 6) Remove both front fuel-tank retaining bolts and washers. You will use the longer bolts provided in our kit. 7) Install the frame bracket (part #22-8636-00) that mounts to your front (2) tank bolts holes. Make sure it does not make contact with the triple clamp. We’ve machined a recess on one side of this bracket to allow for extra clearance (see photo below). The casting ridge on the back of your triple clamp can vary from bike to bike, which might require some slight filing of that ridged seam to avoid contact with our frame bracket. 8) Now check to be sure the tower pin is not abrazing the tank. The tank mounts are adjustable, try to position the tank so nothing is touching. In some rare cases you might have to elongate the rear tank mounting brackets to allow clearance at the front. Use Loc-tite on the longer Allen bolts supplied and tighten the frame bracket 9) Install the stabilizer using the (2) 6×20 Allens with the slot in the link arm matching the tower pin. 10) Since the tank is rubber mounted, you want to be sure it won’t push forward and rub the frame bracket. After riding the first time, be sure the tank has not shoved forward by your body making contact with it. Remember, under heavy braking your entire body weight is pushing the tank forward. Until you have verified sufficient clearance between the tank and the tower pin, it might be smart to put something between the tank and tower pin to protect the tank. 11) Read your damper manual for initial settings on the controls. The damper is infinitely adjustable and totally up to the user to find their preference. Start with softer (counter clockwise) settings. Normally where we set the unit, at 8 clicks out on the base valve, is a good starting point.

Ktm 625/ 640/ 660 LC4's and some 640 Adventures Removal and Installation Manual

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 24-01-2012

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1. There are 3 pages of instructions here. Review all 3 first! These model bikes normally require modifications. 2. Warning: Once the triple clamp is loose, the forks can roll away from the bike . Follow step 2 carefully. 3. Block the front and rear tire securely before removing the top triple clamp, keeping the weight pushed on the front wheel so the front tire cannot move forward and the forks are forced upward, keeping the bearing in the head tube. 4. Remove the 4 bolts holding your bars tight and lay the bars forward out of the way. 5. Using Loc-tite, change the lower nuts on the under side of your triple clamp that hold your bar perches. Use the “low profile” version that we have supplied in the kit. You will need access to the Allen head bolts in the lower perch halves. Without these low profile nuts the triple clamp will not be free to turn lock to lock. There are occasions where you may have to grind on the frame bracket to allow a little extra clearance for even the low profile nuts (see photo). Because the bars are rubber mounted, this clearance varies from bike to bike. Turn the triple clamp lock to lock and be sure you have clearance. You must change them now, as later you won’t have room to do so. 6. Now remove the top triple clamp taking note of how tight the main nut is, so you can re-tighten to the exact amount. 7. Remove the tin bearing shroud (cover) and rubber seal. The lips of the seal face downward for correct installation. 8. The new shorter bearing shroud will replace the stock tin shroud, giving the frame bracket more room to seat. 9. Grease your bearings while you have them exposed. (Keep the grease off the area where our frame bracket mounts). 10. Only if your model is equipped with one, you will need to cut off the upper portion of the square steering lock receiver box (see photo). The steering lock stays functional as the lock-pin still engages the lower the portion of the box. Mark and cut the top of the box off. You must cut enough to allow our frame bracket to drop down far enough so the entire bracket grabs the head tube. If you don’t allow the frame bracket enough clamping surface it will come loose. The upper edge of the frame bracket should be level with the step where your stock bearing seal seats. (See photo). 11. Install the frame bracket so it matches the clamping area on your head tube, but do not tighten it yet. Do not remove the paint on the frame where the frame bracket fits. The paint is calculated as part of the correct dimension. On most LC4′s you will need to grind the weld at the back of the head tube, so the bracket can drop all the way down flush. Each bike is a little different; some require a lot of grinding and some very little. Try to remove the weld while retaining the original diameter of the head tube where our bracket will clamp. It is essential for the frame bracket to clamp to a symmetrical, round head tube. When you’ve removed the majority of weld the finished removal should be done with a file for precision clearance, without touching the area where the clamp will seat

Triumph Bonneville America And Speedmaster The Freak Installation Instructions and Parts List

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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INSTALLATION In order to install The Freak, the factory air-box must be removed. Because of it’s design, the factory air-box is not an item that is easily removed. There are several parts that must be removed in order to get the air-box out of the bike in one piece. We recommend using the following method to remove your air box without having to cut it into smaller pieces in order to get it out of the frame. 1. PARTS REMOVAL In order to gain access to the air-box, it is necessary to remove certain parts of the motorcycle to gain access to the air-box area of the frame. Removing the following parts should be the first steps you take. A. Seats – Remove both seats starting with the passenger pillion, if applicable. B. Side cover and grommets – Remove the plastic side cover on the right side (throttle side) of your motorcycle. This is the faux oil-tank cover that has the name of your bike on it. Underneath the side cover there are three rubber grommets (1 on the frame tab, and two on the air-box) that support the side cover. Remove the two that are on the air-box and leave the one on the frame. You will attach the two that you removed to the right side bracket in Section 4C . C. Faux air filter covers – On the right side of the bike, remove the chrome faux air filter covers, by removing the one allen head screw that holds it onto the air-box. On the left hand side (clutch side) remove the faux air filter cover in the same manner, you removed the one on the right. D. Plastic shrouds – on the left side, remove the black plastic air-box shroud, by removing the two allen head screws holding it in place. Then remove the plastic shroud covering your fuse box (this is the piece that surrounds your ignition terminal next to the battery). E. Battery – Remove the battery by unscrewing the torx-head bolt that holds the chrome bracket in place. Remove the chrome bracket and the black plastic cap. Tilt the battery out of the box with the top towards you. Disconnect both battery terminal connectors, negative (-) terminal first. Remove the battery. F. Battery box – Remove the two bolts that hold the battery box to the frame. Pull the battery box out as far as you can, then remove the the ignition terminal from the battery box, by removing the two allen screws that hold it in place from the back. Next, remove the fuse box from the battery box, by pushing it out from the back. It is not necessary to disconnect any of the wiring going to the fuse box, or the ignition terminal. G. Rear fender – Remove the rear fender, by first disconnecting the taillight wires. Follow the wires from the tail light assembly on the inside of the rear fender (left side) towards the front of the bike until you come to the box connector. Disconnect the tail light wires at this connector, being careful not to break it. Once the wiring is disconnected, remove the 6 bolts that hold it to the struts. Have someone hold the fender for you while you are removing all of the bolts so that it does not drop once the bolts are removed. Slide the fender out the rear of the bike. 2. PREPARE THE MOTORCYCLE FOR AIR-BOX REMOVAL To remove the factory air-box without damaging it, it is necessary to lift the bike. We recommend the use of a multi-position ATV/motorcycle jack with a minimum lift height of 10″. A. Setting up the lift – Place the lift under your bike and secure your bike to the lift according to the lift manufacturer’s instructions. B. Raise slightly – Lift the motorcycle to the point where the rear springs are without tension, but NOT to where the rear tire is off the ground. C. Remove the rear springs – Take off each of the rear springs by removing the the two bolts on each spring. Once all the bolts are removed gently pull the springs out off of the studs. If they do not pull off easily, you can raise or lower the bike slightly with the lift to ease tension on the spring. Remember, you should not have the rear tire off the ground at this point. The bike should only be raised enough to relax the tension in the springs. D. Remove the mufflers – Remove the mufflers by loosening the clamp at the exhaust header, and by removing the rear foot peg hangers. If the mufflers are not removed, they can become damaged by the axles in Section 2H . E. Disconnect the carburetors – With a small flathead screwdriver, pull the retainer springs out of the channel of the carburetor intake tubes (the two large black tubes coming from the air box into the back of each carburetor), and simply push them towards the air box off of the carbs

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