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TOYOTA COROLLA 1984-2006 VEHICLE WIRING VEHICLE WIRING REMOVAL

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 04-10-2011

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IRING INFORMATION: 1984 Toyota Corolla FWD WIRE WIRE COLOR WIRE LOCATION 12V CONSTANT WIRE WHITE OR WHITE/RED Ignition Harness STARTER WIRE BLACK/WHITE Ignition Harness IGNITION WIRE BLACK/YELLOW Ignition Harness SECOND IGNITION WIRE BLACK/ORANGE Ignition Harness ACCESSORY WIRE BLUE/RED Ignition Harness POWER DOOR LOCK (-) BLUE/WHITE Harness In Driver’s Kick Panel POWER DOOR UNLOCK (-) BLUE/RED Harness In Driver’s Kick Panel PARKING LIGHTS (+) DK. GREEN Harness In Driver’s Kick Panel PARKING LIGHTS (-) LT. GREEN Harness At Steering Column HEADLIGHTS (-) RED/WHITE Harness At Steering Column DOOR TRIGGER (-) RED/WHT OR BLK/WHT Harness At Fuse Box TRUNK TRIGGER COMMON WITH DOORS (Hatchback Only) TACHOMETER WIRE BLACK At Ignition Coil BRAKE WIRE (+) GREEN/WHITE Brake Pedal Switch HORN TRIGGER (-) GREEN/RED Steering Column LEFT FRONT WINDOW UP GREEN/BLACK At Driver Window Motor Inside Door LEFT FRONT WINDOW DOWN BLUE/RED At Driver Window Motor Inside Door RIGHT FRONT WINDOW UP GREEN Harness In Driver’s Kick From Driver Door RIGHT FRONT WINDOW DOWN BLUE/WHITE Harness In Driver’s Kick From Driver Door LEFT REAR WINDOW UP RED/BLACK Harness In Driver’s Kick From Driver Door LEFT REAR WINDOW DOWN RED/YELLOW Harness In Driver’s Kick From Driver Door RIGHT REAR WINDOW UP RED/BLUE Harness In Driver’s Kick From Driver Door RIGHT REAR WINDOW DOWN BLUE/BLACK Harness In Driver’s Kick From Driver Doo

SR-C400 Motorcycle Security System INSTALLATION MANUAL AND USER'S GUIDE

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 29-01-2011

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Routing the Antenna Wire The MCM includes an 18″ antenna wire. The first 12″ is a coaxial wire; the remaining 6″ is the reception antenna wire. When routing, try to avoid running the antenna along or near metal. For best performance, have the antenna wire as vertical as possible and exposed. Wire Connections The system includes one harness (HAR-1a) that connects directly into the MCM. The harness is split into three plugs: one for the GEN-1a connector, one for the optional SN-5 connector and one for the data output for future expansion. Note: Each plug is unique and will only fit the appropriate component one way. Main Harness Note: If the optional factory connector kit is being used, please disregard this section of the instructions and refer to the instructions supplied with the factory connector kit. The main harness consists of two harnesses. One is labeled (HAR-1a) and the second is labeled (GEN-1a). Plug in the white 4 pin connector from the (HAR-1a) into the matching 4 pin connector from the (GEN-1a). The (HAR-1a) also has a waterproof connector that plugs into the MCM. The wires should be connected as follows: HAR-1a Black wire with fuse and ring terminal – To battery Positive (+). GEN-1a Black wire – To ground (-). Orange wire – To tail light wire or any other wire that is hot (+) when ignition is ON (NOTE: this is an input to the alarm this connection is not designed to flash the tail light). Color Codes: Ground (-) Tail Light Honda Green wire Brown wire Kawasaki Black wire Red wire Suzuki Black/White Brown wire Yamaha Black wire Blue wire Harley Davidson Black wire Blue wire

YAMAHA ROADLINER AND STRATOLINER LAY DOWN LICENSEPLATE/ TAIL LIGHT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Remove the license plate. Remove the license plate holder assembly from the rear fender (three 8mm Allen bolts 5mm wrench). Remove the five 4mm Allen screws underneath the rear fender which secure the taillight/turn signal assembly to the rear fender (3mm wrench). As shown in photo #2, pull the taillight assembly out away from the fender, turn it over, place a towel or rag between the light and fender and allow it to rest on the fender. 2. Locate the supplied triangular license plate mounting block, two 8 x 20mm Allen screws with holes driiled thru and three rubber washers. Place the two Allen screws thru the upper holes in the block and the rubber washers over the screws on the backside of the block. Start the screws into the upper holes on the fender. Use one of the three screws removed earlier from the original mount in the remaining lower hole of the new block sliding the remaining rubber washer between the block and fender. Tighten all three Allen screws secure enough to compress the rubber washers (4-6 ft lbs.). 3. Locate the supplied license plate mounting plate and LED lights. Cut off the excess red and black wires at the end of the black loom or tube. Referring to photo (1) thread the wires of the LED lights thru the small holes in the mounting plate, peel the cover from the adhesive backing on the lights and press them firmly into place as shown. 4. Locate the three supplied ¼” x ½” flat head Allen screws. Hold the plate up to the mounting block installed earlier with the wires at the bottom of the plate. Thread the wires from the LED lights thru the holes in the upper bolts of the block. Install the plate onto the block using the three flat head screws being sure to keep the exposed wire behind he plate as short as possible and fitting into the slot or cut out at the edge of the block. Snug the screws and again check to see tat the wires are in the slot or cut out in the block and do not become pinched as the screws are tightened. Tighten the screws securely. 5. Where the wires from the taillight go thru the fender there is a grommet, pull this grommet out from the fender. Thread the wires from the LED lights thru the grommet with the other wires. Replace the grommet into the fender and remove any slack from the wires under the fender. Cut the LED wires off at 6″ past the grommet. 6. Referring to photo (2) remove 2″ of the black tubing exposing the red and black wires on the LEDs. Locate the supplied brake/tail light dual function element (a red wire at one end with a red and orange wire at the other) and wire connectors. Cut all three wires on the dual element to 3″ long. Strip the end of the single red wire on the element and both of the red wires from the LEDs then connect them using one of the blue butt connectors. Connect the two black wires from the LEDs to any one of the black wires on the tail light or signals using one of the supplied splice connectors (place both black wires into one of the holes on the connector). Using the remaining splice connectors attach the red wire from the dual element to the yellow wire on the tail light and the orange wire to the blue wire on the tail light. Turn on the ignition and check that the LEDs are working both as tail and brake lights when the brakes are applied.

LED SHOW LIGHTING INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIOINS

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 27-12-2010

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1. The kit is supplied with 4 “cluster” lights that project a round flood lighting pattern and 4 “array” lights that have a narrow fan type pattern. Determine where you would like to mount the supplied lights, switch and wiring connections. You may want to hook up one of the lights with some long jumper wires connected to the battery and hold it in various places to see what will show off your bike best. The idea is to see the light reflected off your bike and not see the light fixture. 2. Mount the lights and switch using the supplied primer and 2-sided adhesive pad. Apply the primer to the backside of the lights and switch; let it dry for 5 minutes. Remove the protector from one side of the adhesive pad and apply. Apply the primer on the motorcycle where the lights and switch will be mounted and let it dry for 5 minutes. Remove the protector from the adhesive pad and mount the lights and switch. 3. Refer to the provided wiring diagram. The wiring is color-coded and connects in parallel. All of the black wires connect together through the BLACK wire of the 2 conductor black jacketed wire (Ground Wires). All of the colored wires connect together through the RED wire of the 2 conductor black jacketed wire (Power Wires). Connections may be soldered, crimped with solderless connectors, or twisted together. 4. Measure and cut the supplied 2-conductor black-jacketed wire to the lengths that are needed to connect the lights and switch. When routing the wire from any lights that you have mounted to the front make sure you have provided enough slack at the steering head to be able to turn the front wheel full left and full right without damaging the lights or wires. Also be sure the wire is at least æ” from any exhaust pipe. 5. Join each connection and cover with the supplied heat shrink tubing. NOTE; All wire connections must be insulated. Cut a piece of the provided heat shrink tubing long enough to cover the connection completely. 6. Connect one wire from the switch to the RED wire of the lights with one of the supplied blue butt connectors. Connect the second wire from the switch to one wire from the fuse holder with the other blue butt connector. Connect the second wire from the fuse holder to the positive (+) battery terminal using one of the supplied fork connectors. 7. Connect the BLACK wire of the lights using the other fork connector to a ground connection. (The negative (-) battery terminal or motorcycle frame.) 8. Secure all loose wires by using the supplied cable ties. Check the front wheel again to be sure there is enough wire slack for turning.

BMW R1200GS Dual Function LED Running Lights and Flashing Brake Lights installation instructions

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 08-11-2010

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The flasher is set to flash continuously as long as the brake is applied. To convert to a 5 second flash and then stay solid while the brake is applied, cut the green wire loop on the flasher. Use electrical tape to protect and secure the green wires to the other wires. 2. Remove the rider’s seat. Locate the wire bundle that starts at the rear of the motorcycle. At the most accessible spot carefully remove 3″ to 3½” of protective wire loom. I know, I know…it’s really beautifully done. Cowboy up! Take it off! 3. Mount the flasher in a location that will not crimp wires or interfere with the other bike assemblies. Locate the +12 volt wire ( GRAY wire with BLACK stripe and YELLOW banding) from the brake light Attach the kit RED wire to the brake light positive wire using one of the Posi-Tap connectors in the kit. 4. Locate the Ground wire ( BROWN wire) from the brake light. Attach the kit BLACK wire to the motorcycle ground wire using a Posi-Tap connector. 5. If you have a Fuse Block with ignition switched relay installed, route the Hyper-Lite GRAY wire to a fused circuit on the (relay activated) fuse block . 6. If you do not have a Fuse Block installed, find the alarm circuit connector under the seat . The alarm circuit has a rectangular connector and five wires, White with Black stripe; White with Brown stripe; Red with White; Brown with White; and Green with White stripe. Use a Posi-Tap to attach the Hyper-Lite GRAY wire to the green wire with white stripe. Pull the wire loom back from the wire. Tap into the wire with the Posi-Tap provided. . 7. If using the Hyper-Lite License Plate Mounting bracket, install it now. OR: Clean the side facing reflectors at the rear of the bike with alcohol. Mount the LED modules vertically on the reflectors so that the LEDs point straight back. Press in place for about 5 seconds. The tape can be used only once! If you goof, new tape is required. 8. Route the BLUE and BROWN wires from the flasher and the LED modules. Trim the Blue and Brown wires to remove any excess wire . Use a Posi-Twist to connect the 3 BLUE wires together. Use a Posi-Twist to connect the 3 BROWN wires together. (see Posi-Twist Connector instructions)

TRIUMPH TWIN CYLINDER MOTORCYCLES WITH POINTS IN THE SIDE CASING INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 30-10-2010

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1. All connections must be of the highest quality, use crimped or soldered connections; twisted wires will not give a satisfactory operation. 2. Remove the petrol tank and/or seat to gain access to the ignition coils, condensors and wiring. 3. For safety, disconnect the battery (preferably both terminals). 4. Remove timing cover. (The Atlas engine has the points housing behind the cylinder head). 5. Disconnect the two wires (usually black-white & black-yellow) and remove the contact-breaker plate. At the other end, these two wires must be disconnected from the ignition coils & condensors. The condensors are no longer required and can be removed. They should not be connected to the electronic ignition system. 6. Remove auto-advance unit. 7. Disconnect the remaining wires from the ignition coils. These come from the ignition switch supply. On the Norton Commando, remove the white-blue wire from the ballast resistor between the two ignition coils; the ballast resistor is no longer required. The colour of this ignition supply wire may be different on some machines; if so check using a test lamp or meter to find the live wire when the ignition is switched on. 8. Find a suitable place for the ignition module, preferably near to the ignition coils. Secure the ignition module to the frame using one or more large cable ties. An adhesive mounting base is provided; this can be affixed to the underside of the module and the cable tie passed through and around the module and frame. Do not completely wrap the module in foam rubber. 9. Using the black coil link wire, connect the negative (—) terminal of one ignition coil to the positive (+) terminal of the other ignition coil. See figs. 1/2 on page 7. 10. Take the black wire from the ignition module, cut to length and fit an insulator and female spade connector to the end. Connect to the negative (—) terminal on ignition coil #2. See figs. 1/2 on page 7. 11. Take the red wire from the ignition module, cut to length and fit an insulator and female spade connector to the end. Connect to the positive (+) terminal on ignition • BLACK COIL LINK WIRE • RED EARTHING WIRE • CRIMP CONNECTORS & INSULATORS • LARGE & SMALL CABLE TIES • CABLE TIE ADHESIVE MOUNTING BASE 3 coil #1. See figs. 1/2 on page 7. 12. For NEGATIVE EARTH electrics go to step 15. 13. For POSITIVE EARTH electrics (standard): Take the white wire from the ignition module, cut to length and fit an insulator and male spade connector to the end. Connect to one of the negative ignition feed wires previously removed in step 7 (white-blue wire for Norton Commando). The other wire (if fitted) is spare and should be covered with insulation to prevent shorting to the frame etc. 14. Take the red earthing wire, fit an insulator and female spade connector on one end and connect to the positive (+) terminal on ignition coil #1. Cut to length and fit a ring terminal on the other end and connect to a good earth point on the frame, ideally the battery positive (+) terminal. For the Norton Commando, the earth tag on the end of the condensor pack can be used (fit a female spade connector to the end of the red earthing wire). See fig.1 GOTO STEP 17

motorcycle Turn Signal Conversion Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 09-11-2010

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1. Place motorcycle on solid, level ground and on center stand if equipped. 2. Remove your turn signal lens. Place it upside down and clean the lens interior with the supplied alcohol wipe. Allow to completely air dry. Note: the LEDs are mounted to the inside of the turn signal lens with the LEDs making direct contact with the lens. The supplied silicone is used to secure the LED board to the lens. It remains flexible but can be removed. Test fit the board in your lens prior to using silicone. 3. Using a small screwdriver, poke a small hole in the end of the tube of silicone. Place a dab of silicone on each of the 12 LEDs on the circuit board. CAUTION : Note the position of the metal pins on the back of the LED board, They must be located 90 degrees from where the holes are that secure the lens to the housing. See attached diagram. 4. Position the round circuit board over the inside of your turn signal lens with the LEDs facing down. Get the board as centered as possible. Allow the silicone to make contact with the inside of the lens and then push down and slightly rotate the board back and forth to allow the LEDs to make contact with the lens surface. Repeat other side. NOTE : the silicone will require 30 minutes in 70 degree weather to tack up. Full cure will occur within 24 hours. We suggest not riding for several hours if possible to allow the best adhesion. 5. You will need to access the following wires; running light (license plate can be used), brake lights, right turn and left turn. Disassemble the bike as needed to gain access to the wiring. Shop Tip: we have found that on the Yamaha Star Series and the Kawasaki Cruisers that installation is much easier when you remove the turn signal bar from the fender. On the Yamahas, there are 3 bolts holding the moustache in position. The wires will unplug from behind the license plate. On the Kawasakis, unplug the signals under the seat and bend the tabs under the fender to be able to remove the wires. 6. We have provided some tubing to slide over the wires so that when you re-install the bulb socket, our wires for the LED boards will not be pinched. This tube should be slid all the way into the turn signal housing. You may have to shorten the tubing for your installation. 7. You will need to run wires through the stem of the turn signal. You can see samples of how the various manufacturers signal housings come apart on our web site. Click on “Other Lighting Products” and then “Turn Signal Conversion Kits” and follow the link. We suggest placing the removed turn signal assembly on a towel on your work area. 7. You will need to leave 2″ of slack in the wires at the turn signal housing to allow for wire connection. 8. Reinstall the turn signal housing back on the motorcycle if removed. NOTE: both of the run/brake circuits must be used. You may shorten the wires only on the run/brake circuits as needed. Do not change the circuits under the heat shrink. T-Tap instructions. Lay the “donor” wire in the slot in the burgandy connector. Close and snap together with pliars. Strip some insulation off of the wire which will be tapping into the factory wire. Crimp one of the pink connectors on the bare wire and plug it into the burgandy T-Tap 9. Connect the green wires from the run/brake circuits to the bikes running lights. The 2 greens can be connected together. 10. Connect the blue wires from the run/brake circuits to the bikes brake lights. The 2 blues can be connected together. 11. Take one of the red wires from a run/brake circuit and connect it to one of the black with white stripe wires coming from one of the LED boards using the supplied red butt connector. Connect the other run/brake circuit red wire to the remaining black with white stripe wire on the other LED board. 12. Connect the black wire from the LED board on the right side of the bike to the right turn signal positive (+) wire on the motorcycle. 13. Connect the black wire from the LED board on the left side of the bike to the left turn signal positive (+) wire on the motorcycle. 14. Plug the wires into the LED boards. If you hold the turn signal lens so that you are viewing the back of the LED board, position the connectors on the board at the 12 o’clock (top) position. The connector on the left is the positive (+) terminal. Connect the red wire to it. Connect the black wire to the remaining connector on the right side. 15. Check operation. LEDs should come on with running lights. LEDs will brighten when brake lights are applied. LEDs will shut off when the amber turn signal comes on. 16. Should you have any problems, please see the troubleshooting chart on our website.* * 17. Reassemble bike

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SUZUKI BOULEVARD M109R Fuel Injected Models INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 16-02-2012

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1. Remove seat, right and left side covers, and fuel tank. 2. Remove airbox. We highly recommend you consult the factory service manual for proper removal of airbox. 3. Route wiring harness as shown in the picture. (Fig 1) 4. Unplug stock wiring harness from injectors and plug in the connectors from Fuelpak as shown. (Fig 2) 5. Unplug the TPS connector (grey) and attach T-tap connectors to the two outside wires. (Fig 3) 6. Route Fuelpak green wire to T-tap on the factory black wire with brown stripe. Routh the Fuelpak violet wire to T-tap on the factory pink wire with black stripe as shown (Fig 3) 7. Reattach the TPS connector. 8. Route red wire to the front of engine and down to the horn. (Fig 4) 9. Disconnect the two position connector from horn and snip connector in half so you have two one-wire connections. 10. Reattach factory grey wire to horn. Attach Fuelpak red wire to the other horn connection. Plug the factory horn orange wire to the male connection on the Fuelpak red wire. 11. Route black wire to battery negative connection as shown. (Fig 5) 12. Attach Fuelpak to Fuelpak harness and mount to bracket under the left side cover as shown. (Fig 6) 13. Before reassembling the bike, make sure handlebar switch is in the engine-not-running position and turn the key on. Fuelpak should light up. Sound the horn. If Fuelpak turns off when the horn is sounded, recheck the red wire connection on the horn and that it is connected to the orange wire from the factory harness. 14. Follow the service manual to reinstall the airbox and gas tank.

Baron Tachometer Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 29-01-2011

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Some models like Harley-Davidson, Kawasaki Vulcan FI models, Suzuki FI models, Honda VTX 1800 and others may require the included Tach Adapter. See separate instructions for installation of the adaptor. Wiring instructions for 7-Color LED Tachs Wire Baron’s Tach to one of your motorcycle’s ignition coils via the following schematic: • Green wire of tach to NEGATIVE terminal of coil (see FAQ to determine your bike’s negative side) • Black wire of tach to CHASSIS (Ground) • Red wire to of tach to POSITIVE terminal of coil (or other switched 12 volt source) • Red wire from control box to POSITIVE terminal of coil (or other switched 12 volt source) • Black wire from control box to CHASSIS (ground) • Control box plugs into tach with the 4-way connector • Button plugs into the control box. Button can be mounted on handlebar or any other convenient place Wiring instructions for White- or Black-Face Tachs Wire Baron’s Tach to one of your motorcycle’s ignition coils via the following schematic: • Green wire to NEGATIVE terminal of coil (see FAQ to determine your bike’s negative side) • Black wire to CHASSIS (Ground) • Red wire to POSITIVE terminal of coil (or other switched 12 volt source) • Blue wire to POSITIVE terminal of coil (or other switched 12 volt source) General mounting instructions (1) Mount new Baron Tach on handlebar in your preferred position. Ideal location is between handlebar risers. If mounted off- center, you can rotate tach face back to vertical (or any position you desire) by first loosening tach unit’s set screw (found either in handlebar area of housing or underside of housing, depending on tach style), then unscrewing tach housing’s bezel, rotating tach, re-installing bezel and retightening set screw. Secure handlebar clamp by first tightening the rear, flat side of clamp all the way down, then tighten tapered front side of clamp until tach does not rotate. There should be a small gap on the pointed side and no gap on the flat side when the clamp is correctly tightened. (2) Route tach’s wire harness lead to coil as necessary for simplest and cleanest installation. Feed tach harness alongside bike’s wiring harness (passing behind any plastic frame covers), then downward toward coil. (3) Make your wire connections as recommended above. Use the spade and piggyback connectors

2001 Honda GL1800 Oxygen Sensor Replacement Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 05-04-2011

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REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Remove the top shelter (see page 2-10 in the Service Manual). 2. Remove the left and right O 2 sensors from the exhaust pipes. • You do not have to remove the exhaust pipes to remove the O 2 sensors. • Be sure to note the wire routing for proper reassembly. 3. Install the new O 2 sensors and route the wires properly (see pages 1-33 and 1-34 in the 2001- Service Manual). 4. Connect the black 4P female coupler of the sub- harness kit to the wire harness side black 4P male coupler (for the left-side O 2 sensor). 5. Connect the new left O 2 sensor to the black 4P coupler on the sub-harness. 6. Route the sub-harness from left to right, across the front edge of the fuel tank and secure it with the clip on the cruise actuator 7. Cut off the right 4P male O 2 sensor coupler (on the wire harness side). 8. Install a PVC cap onto the end of the Black/yellow wire and Green/red wire (these are the wires that were connected to the coupler that was removed in step 7). Fold each cap back and tape it securely to its wire; these wires are no longer used. • Do not cut the wires off, just tape them back. • The tape is supplied in the replacement kit. 9. Strip the ends of the White and Black/red wires (which were connected to the coupler that was removed in step 7) on the wire harness side and the 2P coupler on the sub-harness. Install a heat shrink tube on each wire of the sub harness. 10. Twist the ends of the White and Black/red wires of the sub-harness 2P coupler to the White and Black/red wires of the main harness. 11. Solder the wires using the solder from the kit. 12. Use a heat gun to secure the heat-shrink tubing over the soldered wires. 13. Connect the right O 2 sensor coupler to the white 4P male coupler on the sub harness.