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HARLEY DAVIDSON SOFTAIL LEFT SIDE LEATHER TOOL BOX KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 19-04-2011

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Installation While handling and installing tool box, be careful not to scratch surface. 1. See Service Parts Illustration. Install tool box (1) to mounting bracket (6) using button head screws (2) and washers (5). Screws (2) should be inserted through mounting holes on inside of tool box (1) and then inserted through bracket (6) holes and threaded into weld nuts attached to bracket. 2. Remove and save the two screws that secure left rear fender support to motorcycle frame. 3. Remove two bolts, nuts, and washers that secure debris deflector to motorcycle frame. This will allow you to move debris deflector out of the way when installing new passenger footpeg support bolt. Save hardware for reinstallation. 4. For 1990 to 1999 Softails: If tool box is being installed with passenger footpeg, remove the hex head bolt and left passenger footpeg. Retain footpeg and lockwasher for reinstallation. Discard bolt . If tool box is being installed without passenger footpeg, remove hex head bolt and left passenger footpeg. Discard footpeg. Retain bolt and lockwasher. For 2000 and later Softails: See page 3 . Remove footrest from clevis. Remove clevis from frame by removing cap screw from center of clevis. If tool box is installed with footpegs, keep all hardware. If toolbox is to be installed with footboards, discard hardware. 5. Slide top of mounting bracket (6) between rear fender support and frame. Align top holes in bracket with fender support holes. Align lower bracket hole with footpeg mounting hole in frame. Install the two screws, removed in Step 2, in fender support. Do not tighten screws at this time. 6. For 1990 to 1999 Softails: Place lockwasher retained in step 4 on footpeg support hex head bolt (3) from kit. CAUTION 1 of 3 For 2000 and later Softails with footpegs: Install kit 49352-00 according to instructions included in this kit. Footpeg must fold up at a 45°angle (from vertical) toward rear of motorcycle. This angle allows footpeg to fold up if, by accident, it strikes the ground surface when making a sharp turn. Failure to set footpeg to the proper fold-up angle could result in death or serious injury. 7. For 1990 to 1999 Softails: Position footpeg so it folds up and back at a 45°angle. Install bolt (3) from kit through frame, tool box bracket (6), and spacer (4), into footpeg, as shown. NOTE If vehicle is equipped with saddlebag support bracket, Part No. 90346-90 or 90346-94, position saddlebag support bracket between tool box bracket and spacer.

Yamaha Road Star Forward Control Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 08-11-2010

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Before starting to assemble this forward kit on your motorcycle check the packing list to make sure that the kit you received is the correct one for your model motorcycle and that the foot pegs are the style you ordered (billet or ISO). Next check the contents hardware kit P.N.0109-1000 against the packing list for completeness. Installing The Shift Control Photo 1 Remove wires from horn. Remove the two hex head bolts (Save for later installation) that mount the OEM shift controls to your motorcycle. Unthread stock shift rod at trans shift arm, leaving OEM rod end connected to stock shift arm. Using Original Metric hardware, place a drop of Loctite #242 (blue) to the bolt threads and mount the shift control plate to the motorcycle frame, Photo 2. FORWARD CONTROL KIT PM SHIFT CONTROL ASSEMBLY Note Before torquing the shift control mounting bolts down, tighten them snug and look behind the shift control mounting plate to where it contacts the mounting lug on the frame. Make sure it fits squarely to the lug before proceeding further. Torque the two shift control mounting bolts down to 25 ft-lb. Using a 3/8″ x 1″ hex head bolt with a lock and flat washer put a drop of Loctite #242 (blue) on the threads and insert the bolt through the rear of the control mounting plate and attach the foot-peg pivot to it. Tighten the bolt while holding the footpeg pivot so that its hinge is lined up in a 45˚ rear facing angle. Thread supplied shift rod coupler to stock shift rod end at trans arm. Mount the shift pedal to the other end of the shift ro d using a 5/16″ x 1″ socket head screw and Nylocnut . Adjust the transmission shift linkage so that the shift arm on the forward controls and the shift arm on the transmission are parallel. Secure it with the jam nuts. Apply a drop of Loctite #242 (blue) to the threads under the jam nut before tightening see Photo 3 After you have assembled the shift control onto your motorcycle you must align the footpeg. The folding footpeg assembly uses a blind stud to attach the footpeg to the footpeg pivot. Shim washers (3/8″ x .015″) are used on the stud between the footpeg and the pivot, see Photo 4, so that the top surface of the footpeg is correctly aligned for your foot when it is tightened down on the pivot. This is done by setting a couple of shim washers on the footpeg mounting stud “A” and then screwing the footpeg onto the mounting stud, if the footpeg is rotated to far forward then add another shim washer, if not far enough then remove a shim washer. After you have the selected the correct number of shims for your footpeg, disassemble the footpeg and put a drop of Loctite #271 (red) on both ends of the stud and reassemble the footpeg. This will also need to be done on the brake control footpeg. Setting Up the Master Cylinder The master cylinder pushrod return spring and pushrod boot must be installed on the master cylinder before it is assembled onto the forward control mount. The parts are shown in Photo 5: pushrod boot (A), pushrod return spring (B), spring seat washer (C), and master cylinder (D). Place the return spring seat washer into bore of master cylinder so that is sits on top of the piston retaining snap ring. Next set the pushrod return spring on the seat washer and slide the pushrod boot over the return spring now slip the big end of the boot over the flange on the master cylinder so that the ridge on the inside of the boot fits into groove “A” that is machined into the end of the master cylinder flange, see Photo 6. Installing The Brake Control Unplug stock brake light switch at master cylinder. Remove brake line from rear caliper. Remove the existing brake controls from your motorcycle down to the control mounting lug that is welded on to the frame’s right side, see Photo 8. Save Metric hardware for later use. A Shim Washer PHOTO 4 A B C D PHOTO 5 A PHOTO 6 PHOTO 7 Note For complete brake system removal instructions and precau – tions refer to the appropriate service manual for your year and model motorcycle

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Kawasaki Teryx Dash Frame Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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The BRP Dash Frame mounts in place of the factory cup holder/storage pocket. Remove the screws holding the cup holder or storage pocket from the back of the dash and remove it. Hold the Dash Frame up on your dash. The top of the frame includes a channel that your dash slips into to provide support. Press the frame firmly up and against the dash. Be sure the frame is centered and straight. Using the frame as your template drill out the two top holes using a 13/64″ drill. Each hole is located at the top corner of the frame. Alternatively, you can mark the location of the holes, then drill them out with the frame removed. Using the smaller button head bolts supplied with this kit, along with the nylock nut and rubber backed washer, mount each of the two top corners of the frame. Use caution when tightening however. The angle of the dash frame is different than the angle of your plastic dash. The two bolts are only needed to snug the frame against your dash. You should only snug the bolt up, but don’t tighten it down. Looking from the back of the dash, you’ll see that the rubber washer does not lay flat against the plastic of the dash. This is correct. Again, these bolts are only to snug the frame against your dash and should not be tightened down. Doing so could damage your dash. The supplied nuts are nylock and will not back off even though the bolt is not tightened.

Yamaha V-Star 1100 Custom and Classic cruisers Floorboard/ Footpeg Extension Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-11-2010

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Start on the right (brake) side. 1) Loosen the nut at the end of the brake rod. This will allow you to unscrew the brake rod from the brake lever clevis later. 2) Pull out the cotter pin and remove the pivot pin. Unscrew the clevis 3) Then using a 14mm socket or box-end wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the brake floorboard/footpeg assembly (whichever your bike has) to the frame. These bolts are torqued to 46 ft lbs, so this may be a bit difficult. 1. Loosen this nut 2. Remove the cotter pin (other side of this pivot pin) remove the pivot pin a unscrew the nut to remove the clevis nd 3. Remove these bolts When you remove the floorboard/footpeg bracket, be careful not to pull the brake switch wires loose. You may wish to cut the cable tie for more room, and then rest the bracket, with the footpeg or floorboard attached, on a short box, or block of wood, to keep it handy. Install the new brake rod, to the end of the existing brake rod. Re-install the pivot pin, and the pivot pin cotter pin. Installing the extension bar: Note that the extension bar is bolted so that it rises up in front. Use the new bolts to mount the floorboard/ footpeg bracket to the threaded holes in front. Install the Extension in the proper orientation (angled holes bolt up to the frame, with front of the bar higher than the rear – see photo) using the stock bolts for the extensions to the frame and the new bolts and washers supplied with the kit, on the forward threaded section to relocate the floorboard or footpeg bracket. The use of LocTite ® Blue here is recommended. At this point the right side Floorboard or Footpeg should be secured tightly and the brake lever hanging loose. Now install the Brake rod extension, threading the male end to the original brake rod. Don’t tighten this end yet Place the clevis over the forward most end of the brake rod extension, and threat the clevis nut onto the end of the rod. Bring the brake rod upright, to meet with the clevis at the end of the brake rod extension and replace the pivot pin. Before reinstalling the cotter pin, check the angle of the brake lever, to insure that you have the brake pedal where you want. If necessary, adjust the extension rod in or out, until you are satisfied, and then reinstall the cotter pin into the pivot pin. Check the Brake switch wire and install a new cable tie if required. Note: Due to utilizing a thicker material, 1/2″ versus 3/8″ from our competitor, the Brake rod is now positioned at a greater angle. Even with the angle, braking performance is not affected, but if you wish to bring the master cylinder in line with the brake rod, do this. Loosen the rear, and remove the front Allen bolt. Then place two washers behind the front bolt, under the bracket, and then re-install the bolts To change the angle of the brake rod, 1) loosen and remove the two master cylinder bracket Allen bolts 2) insert two washers behind the front bolt (front of the bike), behind the master cylinder bracket 3) tighten both bolts. Do not install any washers on the rear mounting hole. This will make the angle of the Brake Rod less aggressive. Step Two – Left Side For the left (Shifter) side, 1) use an open-end 10 mm wrench, to unscrew the two nuts that hold the shift rod in place. PLEASE note that one end of the shift rod has a left hand threaded nut. SAVE the nuts, as you will need them on the new longer Polished Stainless Steel Shift Rod. 2) Remove the stock shift rod. 3) Then using a 14mm socket or box-end wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the shifter floorboard/footpeg assembly (whichever your bike has) to the frame.

SUZUKI 2005-2006 GSX-R1000 MOTORCYCLES FRAME REINFORCEMENT BRACE INSTALLATION/FRAME REPLACEMENT

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 30-11-2010

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Bodywork removal 1. Refer to section 8 of the service manual and remove the following: a) Right and left Under Cowlings (NOTE: Two of these screws will NOT be re-installed) b) Cover, Front Lower 2. Refer to section 7 of the service manual to remove the radiator mounting bolts. It is not necessary to remove the radiator. 3. Remove the Horn and the Front Engine Cover: a) Remove the Horn. b) Refer to page 3-5 of the service manual and remove the Front Engine Cover. (NOTE: This part will NOT be re-installed) NOTE: To view a video (approximately 10 minutes in length) of the inspection and installation procedure, click here (available on January 23, 2009). Frame inspection 1. Inspecting the frame for damage: a) Inspect the frame for cracks on the left and right sides of the frame as indicated in the photos and graphic below using the Dye Penetrant test kit which will be sent to your dealership by Jan.23th. This inspection has to be done not only on the outside but also on the inside of the frame spars. b) If no cracks are detected, thoroughly clean the frame area using a clean cloth (not a shop rag) and the kit cleaner to remove the dye penetrant used for the inspection. NOTE: * Protect the surrounding areas where inspection is not required from the overspray of the Dye Penetrant. * Read and understand the instructions and handling precautions of the Dye Penetrant before applying it. * If the motorcycle is excessively dirty, prewash it with soap and water before applying the Dye Penetrant.

HARLEY DAVIDSON 360 DEGREE HIGHWAY FOOTPEG MOUNTING KITS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 08-03-2011

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INSTALLATION Position footpegs so rider can operate foot controls without interference. Failure to have full access to foot controls can cause loss of control, which could result in death or serious injury. (00313a) Mount the footpegs so they will not strike the ground during cornering. Foopegs striking the ground during cornering can cause loss of control, resulting in death or serious injury. (00458b) NOTE See Figure 2 for steps 2 through 6. 1. Determine what height on the engine guard you prefer for the final mounting of the footpeg mounts. Mark location, if desired. 2. See Figure 2. Obtain clamp assembly (1) from kit. Wrap the clamp halves around the engine guard and install with hinge pin head facing upward. Place the flatwasher between the ears of the clamp halves. Hold parts in posi- tion. 3. Obtain the lockwasher (13), screw (7) and one of the footpeg extensions (14) (long or short depending on kit number) from kit. 4. Position the clamp adapter (10) over the clamp assembly (1) with the “cogged” face of the adapter facing the extension arm (14). Hold clamp adapter in place. 5. Install screw (7) with internal tooth lockwasher (13) through the clamps, the clamp adapter (10) and into the extension arm (14). Position extension arm as desired. Do not tighten completely at this time. 6. Obtain the clevis/extension assembly (6) from kit. Position assembly such that footpeg pivots upward and toward the rear of the bike. NOTE: It may be necessary to loosen the screw slightly and rotate the extension to obtain this position. Tighten item 9 securely. 7 5 1 3 4 2 6 8 is02511 1. Clamp assembly 2. Arm extension 3. Clevis 4. D-washer 5. Footpeg 6. Screw 7. Clamp adapter 8. Clamp halves Figure 1. 360 Degree Footpeg Mounting Installed (Shown with Footpeg Installed) NOTE The footpeg will be a tight fit if the D-spring washer is installed correctly. 7. Refer to Figure 1. Obtain the footpeg (5), sold separately, D-spring washer (4) and screw (6) from kit. Install the D- spring washer so it is positioned inside the clevis (3) with the square “D” edge towards the inside of the mount. Hold the washer in place and slide the footpeg into position. Install the screw (6) and tighten to 19 ft-lbs (26 Nm). 8. Repeat Steps 1 through 7 for the opposite side. Position the footpeg assemblies so they are at equal heights and symmetrical. Securely tighten each assembly until it cannot be rotated on the guard with reasonable foot pressure, but do not exceed 55 ft-lbs (81 Nm) on item 7

Ktm 625/ 640/ 660 LC4's and some 640 Adventures Removal and Installation Manual

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 24-01-2012

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1. There are 3 pages of instructions here. Review all 3 first! These model bikes normally require modifications. 2. Warning: Once the triple clamp is loose, the forks can roll away from the bike . Follow step 2 carefully. 3. Block the front and rear tire securely before removing the top triple clamp, keeping the weight pushed on the front wheel so the front tire cannot move forward and the forks are forced upward, keeping the bearing in the head tube. 4. Remove the 4 bolts holding your bars tight and lay the bars forward out of the way. 5. Using Loc-tite, change the lower nuts on the under side of your triple clamp that hold your bar perches. Use the “low profile” version that we have supplied in the kit. You will need access to the Allen head bolts in the lower perch halves. Without these low profile nuts the triple clamp will not be free to turn lock to lock. There are occasions where you may have to grind on the frame bracket to allow a little extra clearance for even the low profile nuts (see photo). Because the bars are rubber mounted, this clearance varies from bike to bike. Turn the triple clamp lock to lock and be sure you have clearance. You must change them now, as later you won’t have room to do so. 6. Now remove the top triple clamp taking note of how tight the main nut is, so you can re-tighten to the exact amount. 7. Remove the tin bearing shroud (cover) and rubber seal. The lips of the seal face downward for correct installation. 8. The new shorter bearing shroud will replace the stock tin shroud, giving the frame bracket more room to seat. 9. Grease your bearings while you have them exposed. (Keep the grease off the area where our frame bracket mounts). 10. Only if your model is equipped with one, you will need to cut off the upper portion of the square steering lock receiver box (see photo). The steering lock stays functional as the lock-pin still engages the lower the portion of the box. Mark and cut the top of the box off. You must cut enough to allow our frame bracket to drop down far enough so the entire bracket grabs the head tube. If you don’t allow the frame bracket enough clamping surface it will come loose. The upper edge of the frame bracket should be level with the step where your stock bearing seal seats. (See photo). 11. Install the frame bracket so it matches the clamping area on your head tube, but do not tighten it yet. Do not remove the paint on the frame where the frame bracket fits. The paint is calculated as part of the correct dimension. On most LC4′s you will need to grind the weld at the back of the head tube, so the bracket can drop all the way down flush. Each bike is a little different; some require a lot of grinding and some very little. Try to remove the weld while retaining the original diameter of the head tube where our bracket will clamp. It is essential for the frame bracket to clamp to a symmetrical, round head tube. When you’ve removed the majority of weld the finished removal should be done with a file for precision clearance, without touching the area where the clamp will seat

BMW Motorcycle R 1100 RS – Rear Frame

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 16-11-2010

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Complaint: On R 1100 RS models (above serial numbers only) with luggage racks, a crack may develop in the rear section of the frame (see drawing) if a load exceeding the permitted 11 lb. is applied to the luggage rack, or if a top case is used. Remedy: Please check all R 1100 RS models (in serial number range above) which pass through your workshops for cracks on the rear section of the frame. Cracked frames should be exchanged with the new part listed below. The new rear frame has been reinforced to use with larger loads. New Part: 46 51 2 320 698 (reinforced rear frame) Caution: Since the introduction of the rear luggage grid to accommodate the 33 liter removable top box, it is vital that this luggage grid and 33 liter top box not be installed on any of the above unless the reinforced rear frame is fitted, or a frame reinforcement kit is installed (a kit will be made available in the future to reinforce the rear frame of the above models, in order to install the 33 liter top box). The new reinforced rear frame (46 51 2 320 698) has been fitted since May 1995 production. Use of the new rear section of frame on an earlier production bike requires a new rear section of the dual seat as follows: Parts 52 53 2 325 121 Flash Green 52 53 2 325 122 Red Needed: 52 53 2 325 123 Black 52 53 2 325 120 Light Gray 52 53 2 325 211 Anthracite Warranty: Please explain to your customers that the top case can only be installed on bikes with reinforced rear frames. Claims for frame cracks which result from operation with large loads beyond specification will not be honored under the terms of the Limited Motorcycle Warranty.

HARLEY DAVIDSON CUSTOM FOOTPEG KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 31-01-2011

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INSTALLATION The rider’s safety depends upon the correct installation of this kit. Use the appropriate service manual procedures. If the procedure is not within your capabilities or you do not have the correct tools, have a Harley-Davidson dealer perform the installation. Improper installation of this kit could result in death or serious injury. (00333a) NOTE A Service manual for your motorcycle is available at your Harley-Davidson Dealer. 1. See Figure 1. The footpeg shown in Figure 1 is different from the footpeg in the kit, however the installation is identical. Remove the locknuts and screws that hold the existing footpegs in place. Save all hardware for installation of the new footpegs. 2. Remove the existing footpegs along with the spring washers. Save the spring washers for later installation. NOTE When performing Step 3, make sure the spring washer is position inside the footpeg support with the square edge toward the inside of the support as shown in Figure 2. 3. Install the new footpegs in the same manner as the old footpegs were installed. Place a spring washer, along with the mount end of the footpeg, inside the slots of the footpeg supports. 4. Secure each footpeg and spring washer with the screw and locknut removed earlier. Tighten the locknuts to 19 ft-lbs (26 Nm) . Footrests must fold up and toward rear of motorcycle if struck. Failure to set footrests to fold up and back could result in death or serious injury. (00366a) 5. For each footpeg, loosen the adjusting screw in the recessed hole until the footpeg rotates. Position the footpeg as desired, then tighten the adjusting screw to 21 ft-lbs (29 Nm)

Yamaha Forward Control Kit INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 17-01-2012

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After you have assembled the shift control onto your motorcycle you must align the footpeg. The folding footpeg assembly uses a blind stud to attach the footpeg to the footpeg pivot. Shim washers (3/8″ x .015″) are used on the stud between the footpeg and the pivot, see Photo 4, so that the top surface of the footpeg is correctly aligned for your foot when it is tightened down on the pivot. This is done by setting a couple of shim washers on the footpeg mounting stud “A” and then screwing the footpeg onto the mounting stud, if the footpeg is rotated to far forward then add another shim washer, if not far enough then remove a shim washer. After you have the selected the correct number of shims for your footpeg, disassemble the footpeg and put a drop of Loctite #271 (red) on both ends of the stud and reassemble the footpeg. This will also need to be done on the brake control footpeg. Setting Up the Master Cylinder The master cylinder pushrod return spring and pushrod boot must be installed on the master cylinder before it is assembled onto the forward control mount. The parts are shown in Photo 5: pushrod boot (A), pushrod return spring (B), spring seat washer (C), and master cylinder (D). Place the return spring seat washer into bore of master cylinder so that is sits on top of the piston retaining snap ring. Next set the pushrod return spring on the seat washer and slide the pushrod boot over the return spring now slip the big end of the boot over the flange on the master cylinder so that the ridge on the inside of the boot fits into groove “A” that is machined into the end of the master cylinder flange, see Photo 6. Installing The Brake Control Unplug stock brake light switch at master cylinder. Remove brake line from rear caliper. Remove the existing brake controls from your motorcycle down to the control mounting lug that is welded on to the frame’s right side, see Photo 8. Save Metric hardware for later use