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Lilac LS-18 Motorcycle Maintenance Standards

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Filed Under (Lilac) by admin on 25-11-2010

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CYLINDER AND CYLINDER HEAD MAINTENANCE ITEM STANDARD REPAIR LIMIT METHOD REMARKS Cylinder Bore 54 -0.01 54.1 Boring After boring honing should be performed Ovality 0.01 0.05 Boring After boring honing should be performed Taper 0.01 0.05 Boring After boring honing should be performed Oversize 0.25 steps 55 max. Do R and L cylinders at same time / 4 steps Valve Seat Width 0.8 – 1.0 1.3 Adjust Use a cutter Angle 45∞ Combustion Chamber Volume 18.2cc -0.5cc Remove carbon if heavy accumulation Compression Ratio 7.8:1 Head Gasket Thickness 1.0 Cylinder Head Nut Torque 3.0 kg/m (22 ft.-lb.) Out standard Adjust 8mm nut Intake and Exhaust Ports Port Wall SurfaceMust be smooth Remove carbon Intake and Exh. Valve GuidesOD 12 +0.09 +0.1 ID 7 +0.01 -0.0 7.06 Exchange Intake Valve Stem Diameter 7 -0.02 -0.03 6.9 Exchange Head Thickness 1 0.7 Exchange Exhaust Valve Stem Diameter 7 -0.02 -0.03 6.9 Exchange Head Thickness 1 0.7 Exchange Intake and Exhaust Valve Seat Face Width Range 0.8~1.0 1.3 Use valve seat cutter Intake Valve Guide Clearance 0.02~0.04 0.08 Replace valve or guide Exhaust Valve Guide Clearance 0.06~0.08 0.12 Replace valve or guide Valve Spring (Large) Installed Load 10.2 kg 8.7 kg Replace Fitted length 31.5 Free Length 36.5 34.7 Replace Tilt 1.5/100 3/100 Replace Valve Spring (Small) Installed Load 5.48 kg 4.65 kg Replace Fitted length 29.5 Page 4 of 10 Free Length 33.5 31.8 Replace Tilt 1.5/100 3/100 Replace Rocker Arm ID 12 +0.00 +0.02112.07 Replace Rocker Shaft OD 12 -0.06 -0.024 11.92 Replace Arm and Shaft Clearance 0.045~0.006 0.10 Replace arm or shaft Tappet Clearance 0.05 Out standard Adjust Measure cold at TDC Rocker Arm Ball Surface 1.8îR -0.006 -0.024 Replace if severe wear Pushrod Bend 0.1 0.5 Straighten Over 100mm (2) CRANKSHAFT, PISTON AND CONROD MAINTENANCE ITEM STANDARD REPAIR LIMIT METHOD REMARKS Piston OD @ Top 53.65 -0.02 Max Diameter 53.95 -0.015 53.85 Replace Ovality 0.1 Piston and Cylinder Clearance 0.04~0.05 0.15 Replace Piston Ring Groove Clearance 0.03~0.07 0.10 Replace Piston Oversize Step 0.25 4 steps Top Ring and 2nd Ring Thickness 2 -0.01 -0.03 1.92 Replace Width 2.5 -0.01 0.55kg Tension 0.85 – 1.15kg 1 Replace End Gap 0.15 – 0.35 Replace Oil Ring Thickness 3.2 -0.01 -0.03 3.12 Replace Width 2.5 -0.1 Tension 1.0~1.3kg 0.65kg Replace End Gap 0.15~0.35 1 Replace Ring Gap Position 120∞ 3 equal spacesOut standard Adjust Avoid Piston Pin Axis Ring Oversizes 0.25 steps 4 steps Piston Pin OD 15 -0.0 +0.006 14.95 Replace Pin Hole in Piston ID 15 +0.012 -0.015.05 Replace Pin and Piston Clearance -0.006 ~ +0.012 0.06 Replace Hand push fit piston at 100∞C Conrod Small End Bush ID 15+0.027+0.016 15.07 Replace bush Conrod and Piston Pin Clearance 0.01~0.027 0.07 Replace Crankpin OD 24.94 +0.0+0.0124.90 Replace Crankpin Roller OD 5 (+0.001+0.003) Refer to conrod ID Replace 3Sizes; 52 per assembly for selective fit 5 (+0.0 -0.002) 5 (-0.003 -0.005) Conrod ID 34.95+0.03+0.02435.02 Axial Play 0.2~0.4 0.5 Adjust Radial Play 0.026~0.036 0.06 Replace

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BMW F 650 GS Repair Manual And Maintenance schedule

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 19-11-2010

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Replace oil in telescopic forks Check the coolant and restore to correct level if necessary *) Replace the coolant (every 2 years) every 2years Check valve clearances, adjust if necessary Replace the spark plug Drain the outlet hose from the air filter box Replace intake air filter If motorcycle is operated in very dirty or dusty conditions, clean or replace the intake air filter every 10,000 km (6,000 miles); check every 3,000 km (1,800 miles) Replace fuel filter (every 20,000 km/12,000 miles) 20,000 km Check clutch play, adjust if necessary Check wheel spoke tension and tighten if necessary more frequently if motorcycle is ridden in severe off-road conditions Examine brake pads and discs for wear, replace if necessary *) more frequently if motorcycle is ridden in severe off-road conditions Check brake fluid level at front and rear and top up if necessary *) Check for operation of brake system and freedom from leaks; repair/replace if necessary *) Replace the brake fluid at least once a year Replace the primary front/rear brake master cylinder cup (every 40,000 km/24,000 miles on a motorcycle with ABS ) 40,000 km Check wheel bearings and replace if necessary *) Check or, if necessary, replace chain, sprocket, chain guide rollers and pinion *) more frequently if motorcycle is ridden in severe off-road conditions Check chain tension and adjust if necessary *) Check battery acid level, add distilled water if necessary more frequently if motorcycle is ridden in severe off-road conditions Clean and grease the battery terminals, if necessary Check steering head bearings and adjust *) or replace if necessary *) Grease the side and main stands Grease the brake pedal Check bolts and nuts on engine mountings, frame connections, exhaust system mountings, swinging fork pivot, suspension levers, brake pedal, main and side stands and quick-release axles for tightness Final inspection with road safety and functional check

ULTIMA IGNITION MODULE AND KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL FOR HARLEY DAVIDSON

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 03-03-2011

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Disconnect battery. 2. Mark location of timing plate in relation to inside of cam cover. This will give a starting point for timing on new module. Remove old ignition if applicable (see manual) Clymer, Haynes. 3. If your bike is not equipped with timing rotor M/W# 53-528 OEM#32402-83 you must buy one (included in kit). Also a single fire coil is needed (included in kit) M/W# 53-632. Any single fire coil rated 2-4 ohms can be used. NO SOLID CORE PLUG WIRES (copper, silver) they will damage the unit. 4. Install module: helpful hints, early model nose cones, i.e. Shovel Heads, the hole for the wire may need to be drilled out. Align with previously scripted mark for timing. Use lockwashers for stand offs for correct clearance of cover plate. Run wire loom. 5. Connect wires, see wiring diagram. Tape unused wires, green or brown. 12v to tach (brown) will damage module. Set timing. 1996 and later should not be timed 20˚ BTDC as the OEM module, but at 35˚ BTDC. Use this mark when using timing light. If VOESswitch is not used you must ground VOES wire (green) while timing. Refer to manual for correct identification of timing marks. At start up and timing, set spark advance in middle position. FUNCTION SWITCHES LED timing indicator light: When out, shows TDC. When ignition is on, LED will light up. When engine is cranking LED will blink. Electric Start/Kickstart: Set accordingly. VOES/Race mode: VOES switch lets the motor run smoother and improves gas mileage. If you don’t use it or add one tape up green wire and switch to race. VOES switch to use, M/W# 53-652. Spark advance: High compression motors should use race mode and 93 octane or better gas. Changing from VOES to race changes advance curves. Agood rule of thumb is if the engine knocks when throttle is applied in high gear, turn back spark advance curve until it stops engine knock. RPMlimiter: Set at desired RPM to cut engine power. Rear Cylinder: This is for racing and should be set at a dyno. +/-5˚. Rear cylinder timing is achieved through this adjuster. Most should dial to middle setting and leave alone. After all switches are set, install cover with supplied gasket and feel the increased performance of a solid state single fire ignition. Again, we remind you, if you don’t feel confident about installing this unit, let a qualified mechanic do it and be assured you are getting the best performance and gas mileage possible.

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POLINI X1 GENERAL INFORMATION AND SPECIFICATIONS

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Filed Under (Polini) by admin on 02-12-2010

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Air cleaner – Clean and reoil daily or after each moto to prevent motor failure and reduced performance. Transmission oil – change after every race, or at end of riding day. Chain – check tension and lubricate before every ride, adjust or replace as needed. Reoil after riding in damp conditions. Clutch – disassemble and clean clutch assembly frequently, every 2-3 races at least. Inspect kickstarter gears at this time. Ignition cover – remove cover and wipe dry after each ride or after washing bike to remove condensation. Piston rings – replace as often as every 3-5 races with expert rider, less often with less aggressive riders. Piston, pin, rod bearing & circlips – replace as often as every 8-10 races with expert rider, less often with less aggressive riders. Coolant – change yearly, make sure there is at least a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze if freezing temperatures are possible. Steering bearings – Check daily for looseness or play. Adjust and regrease as needed. Swingarm – Check often for looseness. Regrease several times a year. Replace bushings if any play is evident. Sprockets – check for worn or curved teeth each time chain is adjusted. Chain roller& wear pads – check roller for free rotation when checking chain. Make sure roller is not bent or damaged. Check chain wear strips on swingarm and chain guide frequently. Replace as needed to prevent chain from damaging motorcycle. Spokes – Check after each race or after each day of riding for looseness or damage. Wheels & tires – check wheels after each race for dents, cracks or other damage. Check tires for cuts, damage or wear. Check tire pressure daily and adjust for riding conditions. Shock – Check shaft area daily for signs of oil leakage or damage. Check swingarm and shock bushings for looseness. Forks – Check forks daily for leaking oil or damage to tubes. Make sure forks are not twisted check for smooth operation. Spark plug – check sparkplug color and condition after each race or end of riding day. Adjust jetting to keep plug from fouling or overheating. Silencer – If bike seems to be getting louder, replace packing and decarbonize inner tube. Expansion pipe – check daily for large dents, damage or leakage. Remove carbon from headpipe when pipe is removed. Have large dents fixed, or any dents within 8″ of the cylinder. Replace o-rings on pipe as needed to maintain a good seal. Footpegs – check daily for proper operation, pegs should spring back into place. Make sure pegs are not bent or overly dull. Handlebars – check bars after any crash for bending. Look for cracks near bar clamps. Replace bars that have been straightened more than 2 or three times, or if bar is badly bent. Aweakened bar can snap suddenly causing injury to rider. Throttle – check throttle for proper operation each time before bike is started. Remove and clean inside of grip and bar as needed. Grips – check grips daily for wear or looseness. Replace as needed. Use grip glue & safety wire to help hold grips in position. Calipers & pads – check pad wear and caliper function daily or after each race. Replace pads and clean calipers as needed. Brake lever – check lever daily for damage or wear. Make sure lever is at proper angle for both seated and standing positions. Leave lever clamp loose enough to allow clamp to rotate during crash rather than breaking lever. Check and adjust freeplay as needed. Brake pedal – Check pedal daily for damage and proper freeplay. Adjust rear caliper as needed. Reeds – Remove and inspect reed block during every ring change. Check reeds for signs of wear, fraying and cracking. Make sure reeds sit flat and seal well. Replace at any sign of wear or damage or at least once a year, more often for expert riders. Nuts & bolts – Check all nuts and bolts regularly. Make sure to check engine mounting bolts and swingarm bolt frequently

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Harley-Davidson Electronic Ignition Module Installation instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 23-04-2012

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Step 1: Switch main dashboard switch to “off” position (Ignition& light switch) Step 2: Disconnect negative (ground) cable from the Battery Step 3: Remove the Condenser and Breaker points from the circuit breaker timing base. Step 4: Disconnect advance/ retard cable from timing base Step 5: Remove timing base from timer shaft and housing (see your manual for instructions) Step 6: Remove circuit breaker wire stud or circuit breaker to coil wire assembly from timing base Step 7: Remove circuit breaker wire from Ignition coil, and mark terminal on coil with piece of tape. Step 8: Install the Electronic Ignition Module on the timing base. Mount this short black wire to one on the timer base screws by keeping some slack in this wire so the timing base can turn free. Solder the flag terminal to this short black wire and mount it under the timer to motor bolt. This way of mounting provides a much better grounding. Do NOT use the screws (number 1 or 2 screws from picture below) from the timing base!!!! Step 9: Now three wires pass this hole via the rubber grommet. Figure 1 Figure 2 Step 10: Reinstall the timer base on the timer shaft housing, and keep some slack in the wires before protruding the hole in the timer shaft housing, and secure with ground spring and cover retainer. Reconnect the advance/retard cable to the timer base. Step 11: Route the two long wires to the ignition coil. Check in the HD service manual for a proper route to the ignition coil. (Keep away from hot surfaces like exhaust systems). Cut the wires to the exact length necessary for mounting. Step 12: Determine the exact length of the wire loom. Keep in mind that one end of the loom enters the timer shaft housing by 1cm. Cut the loom to the proper length. Step 13: Insert both wires in the loom. Strip both wire ends and solder the two flag terminals on the wires. Step 14: Connect the red wire to the ignition coil, on the terminal where the 6 or 12 volt is supplied to. This terminal has at minimum one wire connected which runs to the main switch. Step 15: Connect the black wire to the ignition coil on the terminal which is empty, and has piece of tape on it. (Old place where the circuit breaker wire was connected to) Step 16: Install the trigger rotor on the timer shaft cam, and tighten the hex screw by using the hex key tool. Do not over tighten the screw! Step 17: Check for clearance between trigger rotor and Electronic Ignition Module. Appropriate clearance is between 0,5mm and 1,5mm . Minor adjustments can be made by unlocking the two screws and slightly shift/move the Electronic Ignition Module. Check if the rotor moves free. Timing instructions: Remove the spark plugs from the engine, but keep them connected to the spark coil cables and engine ground. This enables normal operation of the spark, and prevents unwanted engine firing on compression stroke. See service manual or handbook for timing instructions of your model Step 18: Reconnect the negative (ground) cable to the battery. Step 19: Switch main power to “on” position. The red light in the Electronic Ignition Module might already light up. If not, turn the kick starter slowly. The red light is on while charging (closed points)the Ignition coil, facing solid metal of the trigger rotor. The light goes off (open points) when the end of the solid surface of the trigger rotor passes the centre of the Electronic Ignition Module. At that point a spark is generated by the coil

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YAMAHA XS650H/ SH Supplementary Service Manual

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 21-11-2010

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Ignition timing check 1. Ignition timing is checked with a timing light by observing the position of the rotor pointer and the marks stamped on the timing plate. The timing plate is marked as follows. “ll” Firing range for No. 1 (L.H.) “T” Top Dead Center for No. 1, fL.H.1 cylinder 2. Connect the timing light to the left cylinder spark plug lead wire. 3. Start the engine and keep the engine speed as specified. Use a tachometer to check the engine speed. B. PICK-UP COIL ASSEMBLY The method of mounting the pick-up coil assembly is changed for easier service work. Thus, the followings “Pick-up coil assembly removal” and “Pick-up coil assembly reinstallation” should be changed. Pick-up coil assembly removal Remove the pick-up coil securing screws and remove the pick-up coil assembly. Pick-up coil assembly reinstallation Install the pick-up coil assembly on to the stator assembly. _ L 4. Specified engine speed: 1,200 r/min The rotor pointer should be within the limits of ” fl ” on the timing plate. If it exceeds the limits or does not steady, check the timing plate for tight- ness and/or ignition system for damage. NOTE: Ignition timing is not adjustable. C. FUEL LEVEL The carburetor is furnished with a drain screw to provide easy access to service work. Thus, the following “Fuel level measurement” should be added. Fuel level measurement NOTE: Before checking the fuel level, note the follow- ing: 1. Place the motorcycle on a level surface. 2. Adjust the motorcycle position by placing a suitable stand or a garage jack under the engine so that the carburetor is positioned vertically. 1. 2. Connect the level gauge (special tool) or a vinyl pipe of 6 mm (0.24 in) in inside diameter to the float bowl nozzle left or right side carburetor. Set the gauge as shown and loosen the drain screw 3. Start the engine and stop it after a few minutes of run. This procedure is neces- sary to obtain the correct fuel level. NOTE: Make sure the fuel petcock is “ON” or “RES” oosition. 4. Note the fuel level and bring the gauge to the other end of the carburetor line and repeat step 3 above. Note the fuel level again and compare it with the previous gauge reading. They should be equal. If not, place a suitable size of wooden piece or the. alike under the center stand and adjust. 5. Check the fuel level one by one. The level should be in the specified range.

BMW R1100 – R850R Maintenance Guide

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 27-11-2010

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R1100 Checklist – Carl Kulow • Check alternator belt (replace 36K miles) • Adjust valves • Spark plugs (replace 12K) • Air filter (replace 12K) • Lube and adjust clutch cable • Lube front shock lower mount • Lube side and center stand • Check brake fluid (replace yearly) • Check brake pads • Check battery acid level • Fuel filter (replace 24K) • Throttle body sync • Oil and filter (replace 6K) • Check transmission fluid level (replace 12K) • Check rear wheel drive fluid level (replace 12K) • Check tires and pressure • Check all nuts and bolts • Check all air and oil hose clamps • Check all lights PARTS – TOOLS Tools Parts Misc. sockets spark plugs compressed air wrenches oil filter anti seize torque wrench air filter carb cleaner hex sockets brake pads rag hex wrenches oil – 4 qt. BMW #10 grease feeler gauges gear oil – 1 1/4 qt. flexible tubing oil filter tool alternator belt (tygon) flashlight fuel filter, o-ring, clamps measuring cylinder crush washers Mityvac -3 small = trans.drain, rear drive fill and drain digital volt meter -1 medium = oil drain heat gun -1 large = trans.fill tire change tools 5 R1100 Maintenance Steps – Carl Kulow Note: This overview section serves only as a step by step reminder for experienced workers. If you are unfamiliar with any procedure you should read the parenthetical reference article or Paul Glaves’ Routine R1100 Service Article! Note to R1100RT and R1100RS Riders: remove the side panels as described in your owners manual “Service and Technical Booklet” except RT: instead of pulling the mirror off as the manual says, you need to hold the back of the mirror (front of bike) with one hand while you hit the front outside corner of the mirror with the palm of your hand thus knocking the mirror off. Check Alternator Belt remove four bolts holding black plastic cover(4mm hex), remove cover, check belt for cracks etc., check belt tension, replace belt every 36K miles, leave cover off for valve adjustment (see Jon Diaz “Alternator Belt Adjustment”)

4-STROKE TRIUMPH SINGLE CYLINDER MOTORCYCLES ELECTRONIC IGNITION SYSTEM INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 27-10-2010

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1. Remove the petrol tank (and seat if necessary) to gain access to the ignition coil, condensor and wiring. 2. For safety, disconnect the battery, if fitted (preferably both terminals). 3. Remove the spark plug. 4. Remove the alternator rotor cover (if fitted). 5. Loosen the auto-advance centre bolt. Rotate the engine to the correct full advance timing position for your machine (see table on page 6), using one of these methods: • Models from 1967 on: use the marks provided for strobe timing on the rotor & chaincase (inside the rotor cover). Unless these marks are known to be accurate it is recommended that they are checked for correct alignment. These marks should line up at the full advance position, check using one of the methods below and, if necessary, re-mark the rotor. • Models from 1969 on: use the timing plug on the left-hand crankcase • Use a degree disc on the crankshaft / camshaft (see table on page 6) • Use a dial guage down the spark plug hole (see table on page 6) 5. Remove kickstart, gear lever and outer timing cover. 6. Remove the contact-breaker plate and lead from the outer timing cover. 7. Taking the ignition trigger assembly, insert a small cable tie into the two holes in front of the connector block on the ignition trigger. This will be used later to secure the two wires to the plate. 8. Fit the ignition trigger plate with the adjustable slots at approx. 6 & 12 o’clock, using the original pillar fixings & washers, positioned in the centre of the slots (to allow for adjustment in either direction). Handle the trigger with care. • RED EARTHING WIRE • CRIMP CONNECTORS & INSULATORS • LARGE & SMALL CABLE TIES • CABLE TIE ADHESIVE MOUNTING BASE 3
9. Remove the centre bolt securing the auto-advance unit. Remove the complete auto-advance unit with an extractor bolt or by tapping it gently sideways. 10. Fit the magnetic rotor in place of the auto-advance unit, with the magnets/ red marks positioned at approx. 3 & 9 o’clock. The magnetic rotor has a male taper which fits into the taper in the end of the camshaft. There is no keyway, allowing it to be fitted in any desired position. 11. Using the ¼” washer and the appropriate bolt (UNF or BSF), pass the bolt through the centre of the magnetic rotor and into the thread in the camshaft. Finger tighten only at this stage. The magnetic rotor centre thread (metric M8) is provided for attaching a puller, if the rotor should need to be removed for engine servicing, etc. 12. Replace the outer timing cover, gear lever & kickstart. 13. Check that the engine is still at the correct full advance position, then adjust the magnetic rotor position so that one of the red marks is centrally behind the static timing hole at 9 o’clock (see fig. 4, page 7). If your machine’s camshaft rotates clockwise, refer to fig. 3. Gently tap the rotor into the taper & tighten the centre bolt, using a 3/16″ allen key. WIRING: 14. All connections must be of the highest quality, use crimped or soldered connections; twisted wires will not give a satisfactory operation. Avoid coiling up surplus lead.

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2003 Ducati ST4s Timing Belt Adjustment

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 31-10-2010

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This instruction on cam belt adjustment starts after you remove the fairing pieces. Plan on an hour to remove these. Since you are performing your own service, buying Ducati belts may not be that expensive. There may be another belt source, but I have not confirmed this for the 996 engine of the 02-03 ST4s. Fig 1 – ST4s ready for belt adj./ repl. Fig 2 – Crank tool installed. See dwg. 1) Ensure maximum of ½ tank of gas. Fuel will leak into the charcoal canister, then onto the floor if the tank is over half full and the tank is tilted up on its hinge. So put the tank up on its hinge. 2) Remove spark plugs. Cover sparkplug wells with boots or rags. This is a great time to toss out those Champions for a set of NGK DCPR8E’s. 3) Remove the front shield from the horizontal cylinder head. 4) Remove crankshaft cover on Riders LH side and insert crank tool. A crank tool can be made by following the drawing at the end of this document. See Fig 2 above. The flat head screws used are kind of soft so beware on their removal. 5) Remove oil pressure sending unit cable and remove oil sending unit. No oil should pour out. 6) Remove battery and remove bolts fastening battery box to engine/frame. You can let the battery box dangle or partially support it via a bungee cord. Be careful of the cable on the ground of the ECU. By dangling the battery box excess stress could be placed on this cables connector and you don’t want to troubleshoot an intermittent electrical issue. 7) Remove cam belt covers. The two covers over the cams are real easy. The center piece is removed by pulling it down. You may have to move some hoses and cables out Timing belt adj. doc 1
of the way because it is a tight fit. Removing the oil pressure sending unit gave clearance for the removal. Fig 1 shows bike ready to be worked on. On the Rider’s LH is a window on the case cover. Using a flashlight to illuminate the area, marks can be rotated into view using the engine turning tool. There are two marks denoting the TDC of each of the cylinders. When a mark in the window aligns with the pointer, look at the crank driving pulley on the Rider’s RH of the engine. If the driving pulley’s mark is aligned with the pointer on the engine case, you are at TDC horizontal cylinder. If the pulley mark and the pointer on the engine do not align, rotate the engine until the mark in the window on the Rider’s LH side case cover aligns as well as the pulley’s mark and the engine’s pointer. Fig 3 shows the engine pulley and pointer. You can check that the horizontal piston is at TDC by inserting a welding rod into the spark plug well and touch the top of the piston with it to sense its position. Timing marks on cam pulleys are clearly stamped on all four pulleys. When the crank driving pulley aligns with its corresponding pointer on the engine case and the marks on the pulleys align with their corresponding marks on both cylinders, you are in position for belt adjustment and replacement

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2003 – 2007 4Runner OIL LEAK FROM FRONT TIMING COVER

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 31-10-2011

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evidence of a small oil leak located where the Bank 1 cylinder head, engine block, and timing cover meet. Use the following repair procedure to address this condition. 2003 – 2007 model year 4Runner vehicles equipped with the 1GR-FE engine and produced BEFORE the Production Change Effective VINs shown below. MODEL PLANT DRIVETRAIN PRODUCTION CHANGE EFFECTIVE VIN 2WD JTEZU17R#68064608 Hino 2WD JTEZU14R#78076191 4Runner Hino 4WD JTEBU14R#78078323 4Runner 4WD JTEBU14R#78090468 Tahara 2WD JTEZU14R#70091230 Tahara 4WD JTEBU14R#70117349 OP CODE DESCRIPTION TIME OFP T1 T2 EG7036 Reseal FrontTiming Cover with FIPG 2WD7.6 113100P0306548 EG7036 Reseal Front Timing Cover with FIPG 4WD8.5 11310-0P030 65 48 Applicable Warranty*: This repair is covered under the Toyota Powertrain Warranty. This warranty is in effect for 60 months or 60,000 miles, whichever occurs first, from the vehicle’s in-service date. *Warranty application is limited to correction of a problem based upon a customer’s specific complaint

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