how to check cdi terminal kawasaki fury 125

You search Auto repair manual PDF how to check cdi terminal kawasaki fury 125, if there are search results will appear below. If search results do not exist, please search by others keyword.



  how to check cdi terminal kawasaki fury 125 Direct Download speed 5282 Kb/s

  how to check cdi terminal kawasaki fury 125 Full Version speed 6162 Kb/s



Lambretta UNO50 Owners Manual

0

Filed Under (Lambretta) by admin on 25-11-2010

download
brakes: Inspect brake cables/hoses/linkage for correct mounting, chafing, leaks and damage. Check and adjust both front and rear brakes. If hydraulic, check fluid level and correct if necessary (DOT 4 fluid only). Engine: Check and correct the engine oil level. Fuel system: Check fuel tank, carburetor, fuel valve and all hoses for leaks. Throttle system: Check for correct throttle cable routing. Throttle operates smoothly and self-returns to idle from all handlebar positions. Wheels/tires: Check wheels, tires and valve stem for damage, etc. Check and adjust tire pressures. 11 Suspension: Check for smooth suspension operation. Lubricate all grease points using correct specification grease. Check for correct suspension adjustments. Inspect fork and shock seals for leaks. Steering: Check for smooth steering operation and handlebar bearings for proper adjustments. Electrical Systems: Check for correct function of all side, headlight (high/low beam) and taillights, turn indicators, brake lights, warning lights and instrument illumination. Check for correct horn operation. Check harnesses for correct routing. Check for correct function of starter lockout system. Check for correct engine stop switch operation. Check for correct function of the low oil warning light. (2 stroke only) Emission Systems: Check connections and hoses for routing and kinks.
12 Fastening hardware: Check front and rear axle nut and bolt torque. Check torque of drain plug and oil filter bolt. Check torque of all brake system nuts and bolts. Check torque of all steering system mounting hardware. Check torque of exhaust mounting hardware. Check torque of all remaining nuts, bolts & screws. Road test Front and rear brake operation. (approx. 10km): Check cold engine start performance. Evaluate performance, handling and braking. After road testing: Check hot engine starting. Check and adjust idle speed. Check for oil and fuel leaks. Make necessary adjustments and repair any defects seen or observed before, during and after test drive. Retest as necessary. Clean the vehicle prior to deliver

POLINI X1 GENERAL INFORMATION AND SPECIFICATIONS

0

Filed Under (Polini) by admin on 02-12-2010

download
Air cleaner – Clean and reoil daily or after each moto to prevent motor failure and reduced performance. Transmission oil – change after every race, or at end of riding day. Chain – check tension and lubricate before every ride, adjust or replace as needed. Reoil after riding in damp conditions. Clutch – disassemble and clean clutch assembly frequently, every 2-3 races at least. Inspect kickstarter gears at this time. Ignition cover – remove cover and wipe dry after each ride or after washing bike to remove condensation. Piston rings – replace as often as every 3-5 races with expert rider, less often with less aggressive riders. Piston, pin, rod bearing & circlips – replace as often as every 8-10 races with expert rider, less often with less aggressive riders. Coolant – change yearly, make sure there is at least a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze if freezing temperatures are possible. Steering bearings – Check daily for looseness or play. Adjust and regrease as needed. Swingarm – Check often for looseness. Regrease several times a year. Replace bushings if any play is evident. Sprockets – check for worn or curved teeth each time chain is adjusted. Chain roller& wear pads – check roller for free rotation when checking chain. Make sure roller is not bent or damaged. Check chain wear strips on swingarm and chain guide frequently. Replace as needed to prevent chain from damaging motorcycle. Spokes – Check after each race or after each day of riding for looseness or damage. Wheels & tires – check wheels after each race for dents, cracks or other damage. Check tires for cuts, damage or wear. Check tire pressure daily and adjust for riding conditions. Shock – Check shaft area daily for signs of oil leakage or damage. Check swingarm and shock bushings for looseness. Forks – Check forks daily for leaking oil or damage to tubes. Make sure forks are not twisted check for smooth operation. Spark plug – check sparkplug color and condition after each race or end of riding day. Adjust jetting to keep plug from fouling or overheating. Silencer – If bike seems to be getting louder, replace packing and decarbonize inner tube. Expansion pipe – check daily for large dents, damage or leakage. Remove carbon from headpipe when pipe is removed. Have large dents fixed, or any dents within 8″ of the cylinder. Replace o-rings on pipe as needed to maintain a good seal. Footpegs – check daily for proper operation, pegs should spring back into place. Make sure pegs are not bent or overly dull. Handlebars – check bars after any crash for bending. Look for cracks near bar clamps. Replace bars that have been straightened more than 2 or three times, or if bar is badly bent. Aweakened bar can snap suddenly causing injury to rider. Throttle – check throttle for proper operation each time before bike is started. Remove and clean inside of grip and bar as needed. Grips – check grips daily for wear or looseness. Replace as needed. Use grip glue & safety wire to help hold grips in position. Calipers & pads – check pad wear and caliper function daily or after each race. Replace pads and clean calipers as needed. Brake lever – check lever daily for damage or wear. Make sure lever is at proper angle for both seated and standing positions. Leave lever clamp loose enough to allow clamp to rotate during crash rather than breaking lever. Check and adjust freeplay as needed. Brake pedal – Check pedal daily for damage and proper freeplay. Adjust rear caliper as needed. Reeds – Remove and inspect reed block during every ring change. Check reeds for signs of wear, fraying and cracking. Make sure reeds sit flat and seal well. Replace at any sign of wear or damage or at least once a year, more often for expert riders. Nuts & bolts – Check all nuts and bolts regularly. Make sure to check engine mounting bolts and swingarm bolt frequently

Kawasaki GEN2 CDI Installation And Removal Instructions

0

Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

download
Installation: Step 1: Remove the seat to allow access to the factory CDI igniter on the utility machine. See Figure 1. The KFX-700 (V-Force) CDI is located on the right frame rail by the rear tire. The Teryx CDI is located under the driver’s seat, inside the electrical box. See Figure 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Locate the stock CDI (located under the seat). Disconnect the connectors from the CDI, and remove the CDI. NOTE: If your machine has had a timing offset key installed (aftermarket equipment), then the timing maps need to be adjusted using the optional USB Memory Interface. The CDI is shipped assuming 5 degrees static timing, and increasing this with an offset key without compensating the maps may lead to engine damage. Figure 1: Figure 2: Step 2: Remove the two #4×4-40 screws from the DB44 connector at the front of the CDI. Plug the Copperhead® wiring harness into the DB44 connector, and secure with the two #4×4-40 screws. The screws should be snug, but do not over tighten. Plug connectors from the Copperhead® CDI to their corresponding connector on the chassis wiring harness. The Copperhead® CDI will be mounted 90 degrees (1/4 turn) from the stock position in most applications. This will allow it to sit between the stock mounting tabs on the pan. See Figure 3 for the BF750i installation and Figure 4 for the Teryx installation. Test fit the unit, and mark the necessary mounting holes. The KFX-700 (V-Force) will require holes to be drilled in the frame to mount the CDI

Incoming search terms:

Twin Tec Installation Instructions for TC88A-IH Ignition

0

Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 29-11-2010

download
INSTALLATION ON 2004 MODELS 1. Turn off the ignition switch and disconnect the battery ground cable before proceeding. 2. Refer to Figures 2 and 3 for wiring details. 3. Remove the Gill Module. 4. Cut off the OE 18 terminal AMP connector used with the Gill module. Refer to the terminal list. Crimp new Deutsch terminals on the wires, and install into the 12 terminal Deutsch connector required by the TC88A-IH module. 5. Install the new TC88A-IH module. 6. Reconnect the battery ground cable. INSTALLATION ON 2005 AND LATER MODELS 1. Turn off the ignition switch and disconnect the battery ground cable before proceeding. 2. Refer to Figures 4 and 5 for wiring details. 3. Remove the Gill Module. 4. Cut off the OE 18 terminal AMP connector used with the Gill module. 5. The crankshaft position (CKP), MAP, and engine temperature (ET) sensor share a common ground Daytona Twin Tec LLC, 933 Beville Road, Suite 101-H, S. Daytona, FL 32119 TC88A-IH (386) 304-0700 www.daytona-twintec.com 10/2009 Page 2 return. This is not compatible with the TC88A-IH and some rewiring will be required. The temperature sensor is not used, but does not require removal. 6. Trace the BK/GN ground return wires from terminal B of the ET sensor and terminal A of the MAP sensor to where they join the BK/GY ground return wire from the CKP sensor. Cut the ET and MAP sensor ground return wires off at this point. You can tape up the ground return wire from the ET sensor – this wire will not be used. 7. Extend the ground return wire from terminal A of the MAP sensor up to the ignition module, crimp on a Deutsch terminal and install in position 4 on the Deutsch connector. 8. Refer to the terminal list. Crimp new Deutsch terminals on the remaining wires, and install into the 12 terminal Deutsch connector required by the TC88A-IH module. 9. Use a DVM to verify isolation (no continuity) between terminals 4 and 9 on the Deutsch connector. 10. Verify continuity between terminal A at the MAP sensor and terminal 4 on the Deutsch connector. 11. Verify continuity between terminal 2 at the CKP sensor and terminal 9 on the on the Deutsch connector. 12. Install the new TC88A-IH module. 13. Reconnect the battery ground cable. Terminal List for American IronHorse Ignition Conversion TC88A Deutsch Connector OE AMP Connector Signal Wire Color Code 1 2 +12V Power W/R

Incoming search terms:

HONDA CT110 OWNERS MANUAL

0

Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 22-04-2011

download
ENGINE OIL Engine Oil Level Check Check the engine oil level each day before riding the motorcycle. The level must be maintained between the upper (2) and lower (3) marks on the dipstick (1). 1. Start the engine and let it idle for a few minutes. 2. Stop the engine and hold the motorcycle in an upright position on firm, level ground. 3. After a few minutes, remove the oil filler cap/dipstick, wipe it clean, and reinsert the dipstick without screwing it in. The oil level should be between the upper and lower marks on the dipstick. 4. If required, add the specified oil up to the upper level mark. Do not overfill. 5. Reinstall the oil filler cap/dipstick, check for oil leaks. CAUTION Running the engine with insufficient oil can cause serious engine damage. TYRES Proper air pressure will provide maximum stability, riding comfort and tire life. Check tire pressure frequently and adjust if necessary. NOTE Tire pressure should be checked before you ride while the tyres are cold. Select the right replacement tire in accordance with the following specifications: Cold tire pressures kPa ( kg/cm2, psi ) Front: 175 ( 1.75, 25 ) Rear : 225 ( 2.25, 33 ) Tire size Front: 2.75 – 17 41P Rear : 2.75 – 17 41P Check the tires for cuts, embedded nails, ore other sharp objects. See your authorized Honda Dealer for replacement of damaged tires or punctured inner tubes OPERATION PRE-RIDE INSPECTION WARNING If the Pre-ride Inspection is not performed, serious damage or an accident may result. Inspect your motorcycle very day before you ride it. The items listed here will only take a few minutes to check, and in the long run they can save time, expense and possibly you life. 1. Engine oil level – add engine oil if required. Check for leaks. 2. Fuel level – fill the fuel tank when necessary. Check for leaks. 3. Brakes – check operation. Adjust free play if necessary. 4. Tyres – check condition and pressure. 5. Drive chain – check condition and slack. Adjust and lubricate if necessary. 6. Throttle – check for smooth opening and full closing in all steering positions. 7. Lights – check that headlight, tail/brake light, turn signals, indicators. 8. Engine stop switch – check for proper function. 9. Battery electrolyte – check the level and add if necessary Correct any discrepancy before you ride. Contact your authorized Honda dealer for assistance if you cannot correct the proble

BMW F 650 GS Repair Manual And Maintenance schedule

0

Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 19-11-2010

download
Replace oil in telescopic forks Check the coolant and restore to correct level if necessary *) Replace the coolant (every 2 years) every 2years Check valve clearances, adjust if necessary Replace the spark plug Drain the outlet hose from the air filter box Replace intake air filter If motorcycle is operated in very dirty or dusty conditions, clean or replace the intake air filter every 10,000 km (6,000 miles); check every 3,000 km (1,800 miles) Replace fuel filter (every 20,000 km/12,000 miles) 20,000 km Check clutch play, adjust if necessary Check wheel spoke tension and tighten if necessary more frequently if motorcycle is ridden in severe off-road conditions Examine brake pads and discs for wear, replace if necessary *) more frequently if motorcycle is ridden in severe off-road conditions Check brake fluid level at front and rear and top up if necessary *) Check for operation of brake system and freedom from leaks; repair/replace if necessary *) Replace the brake fluid at least once a year Replace the primary front/rear brake master cylinder cup (every 40,000 km/24,000 miles on a motorcycle with ABS ) 40,000 km Check wheel bearings and replace if necessary *) Check or, if necessary, replace chain, sprocket, chain guide rollers and pinion *) more frequently if motorcycle is ridden in severe off-road conditions Check chain tension and adjust if necessary *) Check battery acid level, add distilled water if necessary more frequently if motorcycle is ridden in severe off-road conditions Clean and grease the battery terminals, if necessary Check steering head bearings and adjust *) or replace if necessary *) Grease the side and main stands Grease the brake pedal Check bolts and nuts on engine mountings, frame connections, exhaust system mountings, swinging fork pivot, suspension levers, brake pedal, main and side stands and quick-release axles for tightness Final inspection with road safety and functional check

Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Upgrading the Suspension on the Kawasaki ER6-F/ N

0

Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 30-11-2010

download
Top fork is as removed. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Before removing the fork from the clamps on the yokes I loosened the fork top. Before removing the fork top the fork-slider was placed in a vice and the bottom bolt loosened….. … before finally being removed with the fork upside down. Because the springs were still in situ this gave sufficient tension on the damper-rod to prevent it from turning and allow the bolt to be removed. When I turned the fork the right-way up to remove the fork-top I did it over a container to catch the oil. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource All the OE components that will no longer be required. Left to right. Fork-top, spacer tube, washer, spring, damper-rod. Bottom bolts get re-used. Old and new, laid-out for comparison. The damper unit, minus spring and fork-top, drops inside the stanchion and slider. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Then the bolt goes back in, as tight as possible, to secure it. Top fork is done, second one awaits. Note the spring seat on the right, just below the spring. This drops over the damping rod after the oil has been added. The small locking-nut screws over the threaded part of the damping-rod next, all the way to the bottom. Spring drops in and then the fork-top screws on to the damping-rod as well, all the way down to the lock-nut which is used to secure it. At this point the stanchion is extended to the fork-top which is screwed in. Job done.

Incoming search terms:

BMW R1100 – R850R Maintenance Guide

0

Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 27-11-2010

download
R1100 Checklist – Carl Kulow • Check alternator belt (replace 36K miles) • Adjust valves • Spark plugs (replace 12K) • Air filter (replace 12K) • Lube and adjust clutch cable • Lube front shock lower mount • Lube side and center stand • Check brake fluid (replace yearly) • Check brake pads • Check battery acid level • Fuel filter (replace 24K) • Throttle body sync • Oil and filter (replace 6K) • Check transmission fluid level (replace 12K) • Check rear wheel drive fluid level (replace 12K) • Check tires and pressure • Check all nuts and bolts • Check all air and oil hose clamps • Check all lights PARTS – TOOLS Tools Parts Misc. sockets spark plugs compressed air wrenches oil filter anti seize torque wrench air filter carb cleaner hex sockets brake pads rag hex wrenches oil – 4 qt. BMW #10 grease feeler gauges gear oil – 1 1/4 qt. flexible tubing oil filter tool alternator belt (tygon) flashlight fuel filter, o-ring, clamps measuring cylinder crush washers Mityvac -3 small = trans.drain, rear drive fill and drain digital volt meter -1 medium = oil drain heat gun -1 large = trans.fill tire change tools 5 R1100 Maintenance Steps – Carl Kulow Note: This overview section serves only as a step by step reminder for experienced workers. If you are unfamiliar with any procedure you should read the parenthetical reference article or Paul Glaves’ Routine R1100 Service Article! Note to R1100RT and R1100RS Riders: remove the side panels as described in your owners manual “Service and Technical Booklet” except RT: instead of pulling the mirror off as the manual says, you need to hold the back of the mirror (front of bike) with one hand while you hit the front outside corner of the mirror with the palm of your hand thus knocking the mirror off. Check Alternator Belt remove four bolts holding black plastic cover(4mm hex), remove cover, check belt for cracks etc., check belt tension, replace belt every 36K miles, leave cover off for valve adjustment (see Jon Diaz “Alternator Belt Adjustment”)

APRILIA QUASAR 50-100-125-180 maintenance Manual

0

Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 26-11-2010

download
CHANGING ENGINE OIL CAUTION In case of oil leakage or malfunctions, contact an Aprilia Authorised Dealer . Do not dispose of oil in the environ- ment. Dispose of engine oil – stored in a sealed container – through the nearest waste oil reclamation firm or through the supplier. Carefully read page 34 (MAINTE- NANCE) To change engien oil: ◆ Ride for a few kilometres until engine reaches the operating temperature, then stop the engine. ◆ Position a graduated container (1), under the drain plug (2). ◆ Loosen oil filler plug (4) and drain plug (2). ◆ Let oil flow out of the sump. ◆ Loosen oil filter (3) and carefully clean it. ◆ Refit the filter and tighten fully. ◆ Tighten drain plug (2) and pour recommended oil into filler plug (4), see page 58 (LUBRICANT CHART). ◆ Tighten the filler plug. CAUTION Carefully tighten filler and drain plugs and ensure oil does not leak out. Periodically check for leaks at the casing cover gasket. Do not use the vehicle with insufficient lubrication or with contaminated or unsuitable lubricants, since this would cause early wear of the moving parts and may also cause irreparable failures Fluid reservoir (1) is under rear right wheelhouse. CAUTION Position the vehicle on firm and flat ground. ◆ Make sure that the fluid contained in the reservoir exceeds the ” MIN ” mark stamped on the reservoir. MIN = minimum level. WARNING Do not use the vehicle if the braking system is leaking fluid. CAUTION Do not use the vehicle if the fluid is below the “MIN” mark. 1
27 use and maintenance Quasar 50 – 100 – 125 – 180 CAUTION Brake fluid level decreases as the brake pads wear down. Should the level be too low: ◆ Check the brake discs and pads for wear, see page 27 (CHECKING THE BRAKE PADS FOR WEAR) If the pads and/or the disc do not need re- placing: ◆ Contact an Aprilia Authorised Dealer that will top up the fluid. WARNING Check the brake for proper operation. When the brake lever has exceeding travel or if you notice a loss of braking, contact an Aprilia Authorised Dealer . The braking system may need bleed- ing. CHECKING THE BRAKE PADS FOR WEAR Carefully read page 26 (BRAKE FLUID – recommendations) , page 26 (DISC BRAKES) and page 34 (MAINTE- NANCE). Periodically check brake pad wear. The rate at which brake pads will wear depends on vehicle usage, riding style and road surface condition. Outlined below is a quick brake pad inspection procedure: ◆ Visually check between brake disc and pads, check both pads (1) looking from the bottom at the rear end. ◆ Should friction material (of even one pad only) be worn down to 1.5 mm of thickness, have both pads replaced

Kawasaki Exhausts – ZX-6 ZX-10 Zx-14 Exhaust – Slip-ons INSTALLATION MANUAL

0

Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

download
Our favorite exhaust options for Kawasaki ZX Ninjas – ZX-10,ZX-6r, and the new horsepower king, Zx-14.. Grab your horsepower today. We love Rob Muzzy and Muzzy Exhausts.Going back to Doug Chandler and Scott Russell, Muzzy has been synonomous with Kawasaki and performance – and for years, if you rode Kawasaki,and you were on the podium, Muzzy was on your exhaust. We also feature Arrow and Yoshimura exhausts for your ZX-6R, ZX-10 and ZX-14. We love the sound of a Yosh exhaust on any Kawasaki Ninja. Yoshimura Oval (RS-3) Race Slip-On for Kawasaki ZX14R 2006 The easiest and least expensive way to experience Yoshimura performance is with our Slip-On/Bolt-On lines. Bolt-On style bolts to the O. E. M. mid-pipe Slip-On style with its stainless steel easily attaches to the mid-pipe RS-1 is available where noted Usually, no jetting or re-programming is required and installation is a snap Hindle Stainless Exhaust High Head Pipes – Kawasaki ZX6R-RR 03-04 The worlds lightest stainless steel exhaust system. Increase horsepower and torque throughout the entire rpm range. Lightweight, strong stainless steel header design looks great and weighs less than stock headers. Available in low- and high-mo North Denver News http://northdenvernews.com Powered by Joomla! Generated: 19 October, 2010, 12:28 Hindle Stainless Exhaust Low Head Pipes – Kawasaki ZX9R 00-03 The worlds lightest stainless steel exhaust system. Increase horsepower and torque throughout the entire rpm range. Lightweight, strong stainless steel header design looks great and weighs less than stock headers. Available in low- and high-mo