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HARLEY DAVIDSON CHROME BILLET LIFTER-COVER KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 25-02-2011

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Installation with Stock Pushrods Refer to the service manual for your motorcycle model. Installation with Adjustable Pushrods Lifter-Cover Removal Installing or removing the pushrods with the valve train loaded can result in engine damage. On the cylinder being serviced, always set the lifters to the base circle on the cam before servicing pushrods, lifters, rocker arms, and valves. 1. Set the lifters of the rear cylinder to their lowest point, or base circle, on the cam. Refer to Setting the Lifters to the Base Circle in this instruction sheet. 2. See Figure 1. Insert a screwdriver into the slot on the side of the spring-cap retainer on the pushrod cover. 3. Press the spring-cap and retainer down while pulling outward to remove the spring-cap retainer. 4. See Figure 2. Lift the lower pushrod cover to reveal the lower third of the pushrod. 5. If the engine has stock pushrods installed and you are installing adjustable pushrods with this lifter-cover installation, go to step 6. If the engine already has adjustable pushrods installed and you are installing adjustable pushrods with this lifter-cover installation, go to step 7 6. Use a bolt cutter or similar tool to cut the stock pushrod. Avoid cutting the pushrods with a saw, grinder, or other method that may allow metal debris into the engine. Go to step 8. 7. Loosen the jam nut on each adjustable pushrod and resize each rod to its shortest length. 8. Remove the pushrod covers and pushrods from the engine. 9. Remove the O-rings from the seats in the engine at the top and bottom of the pushrod cover. 10. Remove the four screws fastening the lifter cover to the engine to remove the cover and gasket. 11. Remove old lifter-cover gasket material from the engine, taking care not to allow material to fall into the engine. Continue to Lifter-Cover Installation in this I-Sheet. Lifter-Cover Installation 1. See Figure 3. Verify that the lifter anti-rotation pin is in position. Installing or removing the pushrods with the valve train loaded can result in engine damage. On the cylinder being serviced, always set the lifters to the base circle on the cam before servicing pushrods, lifters, rocker arms, and valves. 2. Verify that the cylinder lifters are set to their lowest point, or base circle, on the cam. Refer to Setting the Lifters to the Base Circle in this instruction sheet. 3. Fasten the new lifter-cover gasket and chrome billet lifter cover to the engine using the chrome screws from this kit. In a cross pattern, torque the lifter-cover screws to 90 – 120 in-lbs (10.2 – 13.6 Nm). 4. See Figure 4. Loosen the jam nut on all of the pushrods and adjust the pushrods to their shortest length. NOTE See Figures 4 and 5. Install the narrow-band pushrods in the cylinder-intake location. Install the wide-band pushrods in the cylinder-exhaust location. 5. Assemble the O-rings (purchased separately) and pushrod covers. 6. Install the pushrods with the pushrod covers. The adjustment-end of the pushrod must be on the lifter

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Harley-Davidson feuling Adjustable Pushrods Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 22-04-2012

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1. Refer to the proper factory service manual for your model and year of engine, for removal of existing pushrods. 2. The Feuling pushrods are designed with a small adjustment parameter for rigidity creating maximum lift – These are not quick install pushrods and may require the removal of the lifter blocks and or loosing of the breathers/rocker arms supports. When loosening the rocker arm supports always remove the breather bolts first. 3. Clean and inspect each new Feuling pushrod including center oil hole 4. Feuling pushrods are marked Intake and Exhaust. The shorter pushrods are Intake and the longer pushrods Exhaust 5. Feuling recommends using new O-rings and gaskets where applicable to prevent oil leaks
6. Always pump up hydraulic lifters before installing them. Use an oil squirt can to fill the lifter with oil through the feed hole on the side of the lifter, push oil through the feed hole until the air bubbles are gone. If needed work the oil back and forth through the feed hole and pushrod seat with the squirt can. Light weight oil can be helpful. 7. Assemble and adjust one cylinder at a time, the servicing cylinder needs to be on TDC of compression stroke so the cam lobes are at their lowest point 8. Install pushrods into proper locations with the adjusting side of the pushrod down, towards the lifter. Slide the pushrods through the pushrod covers up into the rocker housing and set the pushrod on the seat of the lifter. We recommend filling the pushrods with oil then maneuver the pushrod up into the rocker arm seat. 9. Torque rocker arm housings and breathers to factory torque spec’s 10. See the instructions for your lifters for the proper adjustment. All Feuling hydraulic lifters run best at . 090″ – . 100″ of crush.

Harley Davidson HIGH PERFORMANCE QUICK- INSTALL ADJUSTABLE PUSHRODS INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 24-10-2010

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1. Remove stock pushrods using a bolt cutter. 2. Place the motorcycle on a hydraulic center stand with the rear wheel raised off the ground. Remove spark plugs. CAUTION 1 WARNING 1 WARNING CAUTION 1 WARNING CAUTION ® i02097.tif Figure 1. Adjustable Push Rod Kit Number 17997-99A Pushrod Tube Adjusting Screw Flats Adjusting Screw Locknut 1 of 2 Exhaust Pushrod Tube has Thicker “Finished” area and is slightly longer Intake Pushrod Tube has Thinner “Finished” area and is slightly shorter 3. With transmission in gear use rear wheel to turn engine over until both front cylinder tappets are at their lowest point. 4. Replace O-rings, lower pushrod cover and spring cover keeper with new components supplied in kit. 5. See Figure 1. Loosen locknut on all of the pushrods and adjust them to their shortest length. NOTE See Figure 1. In Step 6, pushrods with the Thinner “Finished” area on the tubes must be installed to the Intake location on the cylinders; pushrods with the Thicker “Finished” area on the tubes are slightly longer and must be installed to the Exhaust locations on the cylinders. 6. Install pushrods with pushrod covers. Be sure adjuster end of pushrod is down and ball end of adjuster is in tappet socket. 7. If hydraulic tappets are used, adjust pushrods following procedure A. With solid tappets, follow procedure B. NOTE Pushrod adjustment must be made with engine cold. PROCEDUREA (Hydraulic Tappets) 1A. Adjust pushrod length to zero clearance. 2A. See Figure 1. With the pushrod tube kept from rotating with a 1/2 inch or adjustable wrench, slowly turn the adjusting screw with a 5/16 in. wrench, 2-1/2 complete turns counter clockwise (lengthening the pushrod) as viewed from the bottom. (You may wish to mark adjuster to aid in counting turns.) 3A. Hold adjusting screw and tighten locknut with 1/2 in. open end wrench against the pushrod tube. If pushrod turns with locknut use three open end wrenches, one to hold the pushrod tube, one to hold adjusting screw and one to turn locknut.

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Harley-Davidson Twin Cam Engines Cam Chain Drive System Installation and removal MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 27-03-2012

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Removing the Cam Chain Drive System. NOTES Changing camshafts and cam drives in the 2006-up Harley-Davidson® Twin Cam 88® engines is different than in pervious engines. Procedures require use • of some special tools. Installation should be done by an experienced mechanic with access to factory service manual and required tools. Tighten all fasteners to the correct specifications and in order described. Always use an accurate torque wench. • Incorrect installation can cause engine damage not covered under warranty. CAUTION Failure to install components correctly can result in sudden engine seizure. Engine seizure may result in serous injury to motorcycle operator, passenger, or others. A- Disconnect the battery ground cable to eliminate potential sparks and inadvertently engagement of the starter while working on the motorcycle. B- Remove spark plugs and pushrod cover clips. Collapse the pushrod covers to expose the pushrods. C- Safely elevate and stabilize the rear of the motorcycle. Place the transmission in high gear. Turn the rear wheel to rotate the engine until both lifters and pushrods for either cylinder are at the lowest point on the camshaft (TDC of compression stroke). Both intake and exhaust pushrods for that cylinder will be under pressure from the valve springs and will rotate with light finger pressure. NOTE: 510G camshafts may use stock style non-adjustable pushrods instead of adjustable pushrods. If installing non-adjustable pushrods, disassemble and assemble rocker boxes per H-D® instructions. All other S&S® gear driven cams require installing adjustable pushrods. As a time-saving measure, the stock pushrods can be removed with bolt cutters. Be sure to head caution and warnings of these instructions. D- Cut the pushrods for the cylinder that is at TDC with the bolt cutter and remove the pushrod covers from the engine. Rotate the engine to place the pushrods for the other cylinder at their lowest point. Cut and remove the remaining pushrods. WARNING CAUTION Cutting pushrods with a saw or cutoff wheel may result in debris entering the engine, causing engine damage not covered under warranty. WARNING Cutting pushrods without releasing spring pressure, by rotating the engine until tappets are at the lowest point of travel can result in bodily injury. E- Remove the pushrod covers and lifters form the crankcase. F- Remove engine cam cover and gasket. Secure lifers with a tool made from a large binder clip

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Adjusting the Pekar K68 for Dnepr or Ural

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 11-11-2010

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1. Make sure the ignition timing is correct 2. Adjust the valves as necessary to ensure proper operation 3. Run the engine to warm it up a bit 4. Adjust the float setting. To do this, remove the carburetors (leave the throttle cables attached), remove the bowl and turn the carburetor upside down (fuel will spill). The float should look like this: Adjust as necessary by bending the float support (#37 in Figure 1). Reinstall Installation and idle adjustment 1. First you must adjust the idle. It is acceptable per the manual to adjust the idle by using the idle adjust screws (11). This usually involves screwing them then backing out 1 to 1.5 turns. Or you can adjust looking at the sliders 2. If installing the carburetors: a. Remove the cover (2) b. Reomve the slider (3) c. Place the throttle cable through the guide (18) with the spring (4) on the cable. d. Route the cable through the slide catch (6) e. Insert the slide assembly into the chamber and make sure it easily slides up and down. Direct the needle (8) into the opening of the diffuser (angled side visible). f. Screw assembly together and verify via throttle movement that slide moves freely. Attach fuel delivery lines to (12). 3. Using the idle set screw (11) raise the slider so the lower edge is 1-2 mm. 4. Assemble to engine using the proper gaskets (paper – felt – paper). 5. Using the locknut (26) adjust the free play of the throttle cable (2-3 mm) 6. Adjust the idle mixture screw – turn in completely then out 1 to 1.5 turns. * Starting using the K68′s (cold weather) 1. Verify fuel flow. Apply choke (pull 52 in Fig1). 2. Using the ticklers (13) allow fuel to enter the bowl until fuel drains from (14) 3. With the ignition off, kick 1 or 2 times 4. Turn ignition on, and as soon as engine is warmed up (maybe sooner) push choke mechanisms to open choke Idle Adjustment (engine running and warm) 1. Remove one of the spark plug caps, and with the cap shorted, adjust (11) to decrease RPM’s to a point of being minimally steady. 2. Adjust the mixture (15) out until RPM’s decrease. Turn in until RPM’s increase slightly. Then turn in screws ¼ to 1/3 revoultion. 3. Do the same for the second carburetor with the first spark plug cap shorted. 4. With both cylinders, adjust each idle (11) on each carburetor the same amount each until it’s at a steady, minimal RPM. Use small changes. (at this point you can use your airflow tool to check). 5. Sharply increase, then decrease throttle. Then engine must return to low RPMs smoothly. If the engine goes below limits, readjust (11) from step 4. Synchronization of the K68 Note: Rather than using the opposite cylinder shorted to test the pull of the live cylinder carburetor, you can use something like a Twinmax connected to the test ports (27 Fig 1). Or, if you have a model without these ports, use a Synchrometer (Appendix 2) held against the face of the carburetor. These tools merely show airflow passing through each carburetor (which is dependent on the position and wear on the slide). If using these tools, it’s not necessary to do the following steps. You wil want to use a throttle guide (Appendix 1), to show airflow at various throttle settings. Using the flow meter of your choice make sure each carburetor is the same at the various throttle settings. 1. Place the motorcycle on the center stand ensuring the rear wheel is suspended 2. Make sure you have large area to work with (safety issues here) 3. Shift into the highest gear with the engine running 4. Short one spark plug cap to the cylinder (using a nail or something in the fins) 5. Increase the speed to 40-50 km/hr 6. Fix the throttle using the throttle (maybe using a throttle stop screw under the throttle housing). 7. Reconnect other cylinder and using the opposite carburetor determine the speed which should be the same as the first. 8. Adjust the position of this slide to achieve the referenced speed using the locknut at the top of the carburetor.

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KAWASAKI TERYX EFI Installation Instructions.

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 08-02-2011

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Basic Tuning Adjustments 1. The following instructions are for basic fuel tuning. Modes 1,2, & 3 are allowing adjustments to increase and decrease the amount of fuel the engine needs. Modes 4 & 5 are for advanced tuning only. DO NOT change modes 4 & 5 when doing basic tuning! 2. To help understand how these modes work, you can think of them as if you were working with a carburetor. 3. Remember each time you push the MODE button you will be advancing to the next mode. Push the MODE button once and you are now in mode 1, push the MODE button again and you are now in mode 2 and so on. You only need to be concerned with modes 1, 2 & 3 for basic tuning. Modes 4 & 5 are for advanced tuning ONLY. 4. If you need to go back to the settings that were pre programmed when you purchased the controller, just look at the picture in each mode, the colored square represents where the settings were when you purchased the controller. 5. Looking at the controller you will see eight lights with numbers under them, this is what you need to look at when changing settings. The #1 light on the controller represents the leanest setting. TRINITY RACING DOES NOT TAKE REPONSIBLITY FOR DAMAGES THAT MAY OCCUR DURING OPERATION OF YOUR VEHICLE UNDER IMPROPER JET SETTINGS. IT IS THE FINAL RESPONSIBLITY OF THE OWNER/RIDER TO ADJUST JETTING TO SPECIFIC RIDING CONDITIONS AND ELEVATION BEFORE RIDING. WARNING! 1.877.FAS TOYS 2.Remove both seats 6. Re-install engine cover and seats. 6. Mode 1 green light represents idle & cruise adjustment (i.e. pilot jet). To adjust this setting push the MODE button once and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. 7. Mode 2 yellow light represents an additional amount of fuel added during acceleration (i.e. needle position). To adjust this setting, push MODE twice and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. 12 34 56 7 8 12 34 56 7 8 8. Mode 3 red light represents more fuel being added during full throttle (i.e. main jet). To adjust this setting push the MODE button three times and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. 9. If you are confident about your tuning skills and feel you need to adjust other parameters, see Advanced Tuning. 12 34 56 7 8 Advanced Tuning Adjustments 1. Advance tuning has two modes in which to adjust. They are called mode 4 and mode 5. In basic tuning, you are changing the amount of fuel that the engine receives, but with advance tuning, you will be changing when the fuel will be available. In each mode you can adjust how soon the fuel delivery occurs. 2. Mode 4 yellow light and blue light represent when the fuel delivery is available during partial throttle acceleration. To adjust this setting, push the MODE button four times and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. Only the yellow light will be changing.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON SCREAMIN' EAGLE PERFECT FIT PUSHRODS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 20-02-2011

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INSTALLATION To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) 1. Refer to the service manual and follow the instructions given for disassembling the motorcycle for service and to gain access to the top end overhaul disassembly of seat, rocker cover, breather assembly, rocker arm support plate and pushrods. 2. Place the motorcycle on a center stand with the rear wheel raised off the ground. Remove the spark plugs. 3. With the transmission in gear, use the rear wheel to turn the engine over until both front cylinder tappets are at their lowest point. Remove and discard the pushrods. 4. Install the new pushrods into the pushrod covers using the appropriate service manual procedures. Be sure the larger end of the tapered pushrods are installed to the tappet sockets. 5. Repeat step 4 for the rear cylinder. NOTE Check for contact between the pushrods and the upper pushrod covers. Check by rotating the engine slowly until both valves have fully opened and closed on the cylinder you are checking. If contact is observed, the rocker arm supports should be shifted toward the engine’s cam side. 6. Complete all the appropriate service manual procedures for assembling the engine. 7. Complete all service manual procedures for the assembly of the motorcycle. 8. Return the transmission to neutral and install the spark plugs. 9. Connect the negative (-) battery cable. After installing seat, pull upward on seat to be sure it is locked in position. While riding, a loose seat can shift causing loss of control, which could result in death or serious injury. (00070b) 10. Install the seat

Ural carburetors Installation and idle adjustment

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Filed Under (Ural) by admin on 02-11-2010

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1. First you must adjust the idle. It is acceptable per the manual to adjust the idle by using the idle adjust screws (11). This usually involves screwing them then backing out 1 to 1.5 turns. Or you can adjust looking at the sliders 2. If installing the carburetors: a. Remove the cover (2) b. Reomve the slider (3) c. Place the throttle cable through the guide (18) with the spring (4) on the cable. d. Route the cable through the slide catch (6) e. Insert the slide assembly into the chamber and make sure it easily slides up and down. Direct the needle (8) into the opening of the diffuser (angled side visible). f. Screw assembly together and verify via throttle movement that slide moves freely. Attach fuel delivery lines to (12). 3. Using the idle set screw (11) raise the slider so the lower edge is 1-2 mm. 4. Assemble to engine using the proper gaskets (paper – felt – paper). 5. Using the locknut (26) adjust the free play of the throttle cable (2-3 mm) 6. Adjust the idle mixture screw – turn in completely then out 1 to 1.5 turns 1. Remove one of the spark plug caps, and with the cap shorted, adjust (11) to decrease RPM’s to a point of being minimally steady. 2. Adjust the mixture (15) out until RPM’s decrease. Turn in until RPM’s increase slightly. Then turn in screws ¼ to 1/3 revoultion. 3. Do the same for the second carburetor with the first spark plug cap shorted. 4. With both cylinders, adjust each idle (11) on each carburetor the same amount each until it’s at a steady, minimal RPM. Use small changes. (at this point you can use your airflow tool to check). 5. Sharply increase, then decrease throttle. Then engine must return to low RPMs smoothly. If the engine goes below limits, readjust (11) from step 4. Synchronization of the K68 Note: Rather than using the opposite cylinder shorted to test the pull of the live cylinder carburetor, you can use something like a Twinmax connected to the test ports (27 Fig 1). Or, if you have a model without these ports, use a Synchrometer (Appendix 2) held against the face of the carburetor. These tools merely show airflow passing through each carburetor (which is dependent on the position and wear on the slide). If using these tools, it’s not necessary to do the following steps. You wil want to use a throttle guide (Appendix 1), to show airflow at various throttle settings. Using the flow meter of your choice make sure each carburetor is the same at the various throttle settings. 1. Place the motorcycle on the center stand ensuring the rear wheel is suspended 2. Make sure you have large area to work with (safety issues here) 3. Shift into the highest gear with the engine running 4. Short one spark plug cap to the cylinder (using a nail or something in the fins) 5. Increase the speed to 40-50 km/hr 6. Fix the throttle using the throttle (maybe using a throttle stop screw under the throttle housing). 7. Reconnect other cylinder and using the opposite carburetor determine the speed which should be the same as the first. 8. Adjust the position of this slide to achieve the referenced speed using the locknut at the top of the carburetor.

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Kawasaki FI Calibration Tool Instruction Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 08-02-2011

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System Function Kawasaki FI Calibration Tool (FI Tool) is developed to modify the mapping of the racing machine to gain operating conditions suitable for the course and the rider’s skill. The following are the available setting functions. Table 1 FI Tool Function Model Name Functions Available Setting Range ’04 ZX-10R ’05 ZX-6RR ’05 ZX-10R ’06 ZX-10R ’07 ZX-6R 1) Adjust the injected fuel rate at acceleration -30 % ~ +30 % 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 2) Adjust the injected fuel rate of No.1 and No.4 cylinder -30 % ~ +30 % 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 3) Adjust the injected fuel rate of No.2 and No.3 cylinder -30 % ~ +30 % 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 4) Adjust the injected fuel rate of primary and secondary injector * -30 % ~ +30 % -10 % ~ +10 % — – — 〇 — – — – — 〇 5) Adjust the ignition timing -15°CA~ +5°CA 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 6) Adjust the sub-throttle opening angle -50 % ~ +50 % -45 % ~ +45 % 〇 — – 〇 〇 — 〇 — – 〇 7) Adjust the exhaust device opening angle -50 % ~ +50 % 〇 — 〇 〇 — 8) Adjust the all injected fuel rates of all cylinders and operating are a simultaneously -30 % ~ +30 % 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 9) Adjust the value of engine over revolution limiter 0 ~ +300 rpm -1000 ~ +700rpm -1000 ~+1200rpm — – — 〇 — – — 〇 — – — 〇 〇 — – 10) Set the fuel cut or not at deceleration Use or Not Use 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 11) Set the sub throttle controlled or not Controlled or Full Open Fixed 〇 — – — – 12) Set the exhaust device controlled or not Controlled or Full Open Fixed 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 13) Set the Auto Shifter Ignition Cut Length Controlled or not, set Ig. Cut Time by gear range — – 〇 〇 〇 14) Set the Pit Road RPM Limit Controlled or not, set Upper Limit RPM by gear range

POLINI X1 GENERAL INFORMATION AND SPECIFICATIONS

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Filed Under (Polini) by admin on 02-12-2010

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Air cleaner – Clean and reoil daily or after each moto to prevent motor failure and reduced performance. Transmission oil – change after every race, or at end of riding day. Chain – check tension and lubricate before every ride, adjust or replace as needed. Reoil after riding in damp conditions. Clutch – disassemble and clean clutch assembly frequently, every 2-3 races at least. Inspect kickstarter gears at this time. Ignition cover – remove cover and wipe dry after each ride or after washing bike to remove condensation. Piston rings – replace as often as every 3-5 races with expert rider, less often with less aggressive riders. Piston, pin, rod bearing & circlips – replace as often as every 8-10 races with expert rider, less often with less aggressive riders. Coolant – change yearly, make sure there is at least a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze if freezing temperatures are possible. Steering bearings – Check daily for looseness or play. Adjust and regrease as needed. Swingarm – Check often for looseness. Regrease several times a year. Replace bushings if any play is evident. Sprockets – check for worn or curved teeth each time chain is adjusted. Chain roller& wear pads – check roller for free rotation when checking chain. Make sure roller is not bent or damaged. Check chain wear strips on swingarm and chain guide frequently. Replace as needed to prevent chain from damaging motorcycle. Spokes – Check after each race or after each day of riding for looseness or damage. Wheels & tires – check wheels after each race for dents, cracks or other damage. Check tires for cuts, damage or wear. Check tire pressure daily and adjust for riding conditions. Shock – Check shaft area daily for signs of oil leakage or damage. Check swingarm and shock bushings for looseness. Forks – Check forks daily for leaking oil or damage to tubes. Make sure forks are not twisted check for smooth operation. Spark plug – check sparkplug color and condition after each race or end of riding day. Adjust jetting to keep plug from fouling or overheating. Silencer – If bike seems to be getting louder, replace packing and decarbonize inner tube. Expansion pipe – check daily for large dents, damage or leakage. Remove carbon from headpipe when pipe is removed. Have large dents fixed, or any dents within 8″ of the cylinder. Replace o-rings on pipe as needed to maintain a good seal. Footpegs – check daily for proper operation, pegs should spring back into place. Make sure pegs are not bent or overly dull. Handlebars – check bars after any crash for bending. Look for cracks near bar clamps. Replace bars that have been straightened more than 2 or three times, or if bar is badly bent. Aweakened bar can snap suddenly causing injury to rider. Throttle – check throttle for proper operation each time before bike is started. Remove and clean inside of grip and bar as needed. Grips – check grips daily for wear or looseness. Replace as needed. Use grip glue & safety wire to help hold grips in position. Calipers & pads – check pad wear and caliper function daily or after each race. Replace pads and clean calipers as needed. Brake lever – check lever daily for damage or wear. Make sure lever is at proper angle for both seated and standing positions. Leave lever clamp loose enough to allow clamp to rotate during crash rather than breaking lever. Check and adjust freeplay as needed. Brake pedal – Check pedal daily for damage and proper freeplay. Adjust rear caliper as needed. Reeds – Remove and inspect reed block during every ring change. Check reeds for signs of wear, fraying and cracking. Make sure reeds sit flat and seal well. Replace at any sign of wear or damage or at least once a year, more often for expert riders. Nuts & bolts – Check all nuts and bolts regularly. Make sure to check engine mounting bolts and swingarm bolt frequently

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