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HARLEY DAVIDSON FLH AND FLT TRAILER HITCH OR RACK LIGHTING WIRE HARNESS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 29-01-2011

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Remove the seat and locate the tail light plug, this should be attached to the frame with a plastic clip where the fender meets the frame cross member. Unplug the connector and plug in the male and female ends of the supplied wire harness. Route the harness as shown following the other wire looms and then down along the main frame of the trailer hitch or your fender support to the bottom of the rear fender. Secure the harness using the supplied cable ties. Install a plug that matches that of your trailer. The wires in the harness functions/colors are as follows: Black = Ground Brown = Tail Light Red = Brake Light Orange = Left Turn signal Blue = Right Turn signal NOTE: If your trailer has only four (4) wires you will need to use a 5 to 4 wire converter. These are available at most auto parts stores or thru RIVCO Products. NOTE: If your trailer uses more than two (2) incandescent tail light bulbs the use of a trailer wiring isolator is strongly advised as this additional load is too much for the motorcycles wiring to support and may cause damage to the electrical system. Trailer wiring isolators are available although not as common in auto parts stores and are also available thru RIVCO Products. If you are installing both you must first install the 5 to 4 wire converter then the isolator then to the trailer plug.

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Triumph Bonneville America And Speedmaster The Freak Installation Instructions and Parts List

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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INSTALLATION In order to install The Freak, the factory air-box must be removed. Because of it’s design, the factory air-box is not an item that is easily removed. There are several parts that must be removed in order to get the air-box out of the bike in one piece. We recommend using the following method to remove your air box without having to cut it into smaller pieces in order to get it out of the frame. 1. PARTS REMOVAL In order to gain access to the air-box, it is necessary to remove certain parts of the motorcycle to gain access to the air-box area of the frame. Removing the following parts should be the first steps you take. A. Seats – Remove both seats starting with the passenger pillion, if applicable. B. Side cover and grommets – Remove the plastic side cover on the right side (throttle side) of your motorcycle. This is the faux oil-tank cover that has the name of your bike on it. Underneath the side cover there are three rubber grommets (1 on the frame tab, and two on the air-box) that support the side cover. Remove the two that are on the air-box and leave the one on the frame. You will attach the two that you removed to the right side bracket in Section 4C . C. Faux air filter covers – On the right side of the bike, remove the chrome faux air filter covers, by removing the one allen head screw that holds it onto the air-box. On the left hand side (clutch side) remove the faux air filter cover in the same manner, you removed the one on the right. D. Plastic shrouds – on the left side, remove the black plastic air-box shroud, by removing the two allen head screws holding it in place. Then remove the plastic shroud covering your fuse box (this is the piece that surrounds your ignition terminal next to the battery). E. Battery – Remove the battery by unscrewing the torx-head bolt that holds the chrome bracket in place. Remove the chrome bracket and the black plastic cap. Tilt the battery out of the box with the top towards you. Disconnect both battery terminal connectors, negative (-) terminal first. Remove the battery. F. Battery box – Remove the two bolts that hold the battery box to the frame. Pull the battery box out as far as you can, then remove the the ignition terminal from the battery box, by removing the two allen screws that hold it in place from the back. Next, remove the fuse box from the battery box, by pushing it out from the back. It is not necessary to disconnect any of the wiring going to the fuse box, or the ignition terminal. G. Rear fender – Remove the rear fender, by first disconnecting the taillight wires. Follow the wires from the tail light assembly on the inside of the rear fender (left side) towards the front of the bike until you come to the box connector. Disconnect the tail light wires at this connector, being careful not to break it. Once the wiring is disconnected, remove the 6 bolts that hold it to the struts. Have someone hold the fender for you while you are removing all of the bolts so that it does not drop once the bolts are removed. Slide the fender out the rear of the bike. 2. PREPARE THE MOTORCYCLE FOR AIR-BOX REMOVAL To remove the factory air-box without damaging it, it is necessary to lift the bike. We recommend the use of a multi-position ATV/motorcycle jack with a minimum lift height of 10″. A. Setting up the lift – Place the lift under your bike and secure your bike to the lift according to the lift manufacturer’s instructions. B. Raise slightly – Lift the motorcycle to the point where the rear springs are without tension, but NOT to where the rear tire is off the ground. C. Remove the rear springs – Take off each of the rear springs by removing the the two bolts on each spring. Once all the bolts are removed gently pull the springs out off of the studs. If they do not pull off easily, you can raise or lower the bike slightly with the lift to ease tension on the spring. Remember, you should not have the rear tire off the ground at this point. The bike should only be raised enough to relax the tension in the springs. D. Remove the mufflers – Remove the mufflers by loosening the clamp at the exhaust header, and by removing the rear foot peg hangers. If the mufflers are not removed, they can become damaged by the axles in Section 2H . E. Disconnect the carburetors – With a small flathead screwdriver, pull the retainer springs out of the channel of the carburetor intake tubes (the two large black tubes coming from the air box into the back of each carburetor), and simply push them towards the air box off of the carbs

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ESCAPADE TRAILER Wheel Bearing Removal AND OWNER'S MANUAL

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 20-11-2010

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1. Remove lug nuts and wheel assembly. Remove the cotter pin, adjusting nut (castle nut) and washer from the wheel spindle. 2. Pull the wheel hub towards you to loosen the outer bearing cone. Don’t Let the cone fall to the ground. As the hub is removed, the inner bearing and grease seal will come with it. Observe which direction the inner seal is facing. Pry out the inner seal and discard. 3. Remove all old lubricant from the hub assembly and wheel spindle with kerosene or mineral spirits. CAUTION: do not use gasoline to clean and remove the old lubricant). Inspect the spindle for scoring, bending, thread or other damage. A light grease coating on the spindle will make bearing installation easier and prevent rust from forming. 4. Inspect cups in the hub for pitting, metal flaking, scoring, rust or other obvious damage. Remove any damaged cups with a mild steel bar. Replace cups and cones in matched sets only; not one at a time. 5. Use cup driver or mild steel bar to press or drive the new cup into the hub Wheel / Rim: 12 X 4 JA (4 bolt, 4″ bolt diameter, 2½” rear space) Tire: 4.80 X 12 (B) (4 ply rated; cold pressure rated to 465 lbs. of load at 25 PSI). NOTE: These are standard utility trailer size tires and wheels. Using oversize tires or increasing tire pressures to a level higher than recommended will not increase the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). HUBS For maximum performance from your Sport Wheels and to avoid damage to your trailer, observe the following precautions: •When buying a replacement hub, check that the hub flange is no smaller than a diameter of ?”. •The replacement hub must accept the 1″ bearing (Part Number L44643) and matching cup. •Torque all lug nuts holding the wheel to 75 ft. lbs. TRAILING ARM / SWING ARM No maintenance is required for the trailing arm bearings for the life of the trailer. However, if the trailing arm is removed for any reason the following steps must be followed. 1. Once the ¾” X 16 hex nut has been removed, discard it, and replace with a new lock nut of the same design. 2. When replacing the trailing arm, be sure the bearing spacer is located between the bearings. 3. Torque the hex nut to 14 ft. lbs while moving swing-arm up and down.. DO NOT BACK OFF FOR ADJUSTMENT . Insufficient torque to the

Stinger Folding Motorcycle Trailer Review And Specifications

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 29-01-2011

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trailer with which to haul your machine(s). The steady stream of four-wheelers trailering two- wheelers to Daytona Bike Week proves that, for a considerable number of us, Mother Nature’s elements are sometimes best enjoyed upon reaching our destination, rather than experienced while traveling toward it. Travel aside, motorcycle trailers are handy, even indispensable, for getting asickly motorcycle to the shop, or to avoid committing the better part of a day waiting while the dealer installs new tires and brake pads. Finally, we find atrailer is preferable to a pickup truck for motorcycle transport, especially when singlehandedly loading/unloading. The problem for many of us is where do we find the space to park this little- used device? No matter if it’s a flatbe Rod Haskins, owner of metal bender Maintenance &Fab in Richmond, California, isn’t a rider himself, but his research indicated a market existed for a sturdily built, full-sized motorcycle trailer that folded compactly when not in use. Learning of a dormant but clever design developed by an agricultural trailer company, Haskins struck a deal, made several improvements and the Stinger Trailer was born. Werecently spent some time with a Stinger and found it to be a clever product. The Stinger arrived folded and secured to a wooden pallet. Assembly was simple, and within 20 minutes we had the 180- pound trailer ready to tow. The trailer is not towable in the folded position—that’s for storage only. Aone-car garage, home to our full-sized Chevrolet, couldn’tnormally house a motorcycle trailer, too. But the folded Stinger squeezed in nicely

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Honda CBR 400RR Service and Repair Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 16-12-2011

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Once you have found al1 the identification nurnbers, record thern for reference when nbuying parts. Since the rnanufacturers change specifications, parts and vendors (cornpanies that rnanufacture various cornponents on the
rnachine), providing the ID nurnbers is the only av to be reasonablv sure that vou are buvina Model, c ~ d e and
production year CBR400RR-J (1988) CBR400RR-K (1 989) CBR400RR-L (t990 and 91) CBR400RR-N (1992 and 93) CBR400RR-R (1 994-on) , the correct parts. Whenever possible, take the worn pari to the dealer so direct cornparison with the new cornponent can be rnade. Along the trail frorn the rnanufacturer to the parts shelf, there are nurnerous places that the part can end up with the wrong nurnber or be listed incorrectly. The two places to purchase new parts for
your rnotorcycle – the accessory shop and the rnotorcycle dealer – differ in the type of parts they carry. While dealers can obtain virtually every part for your rnotorcycle, the accessory shop is usually lirnited to norrnal high wear iterns such as shock absorbers, tune-up parts, various engine gaskets, cables, chains, brake parts, etc. Rarely will an accessory outlet have rnajor suspension cornponents, cylinders, transrnission gears, or cases. Used parts can be obtained for roughly half the price of new ones, but you can’t always be sure of what you’re getting. Once again, take your worn part to the breaker for direct cornparison. Whetherhu~ng new, used or rebuilt parts, the best course is to dea1 directly with sorneone who specialises in parts for your particular rnake. Frame nwnber NC23-1020001 t0 1036454 NC23 t090001 t0 10981 16 NC29-1000001 to 101 0598 NC29-1050001 on NC29-l t00001 on Unofficial (grey) imports
All CBR400RR rnodels in the LIK are unofficial (grey) irnports frorn Japan. The rnajority are second-hand rnachines and are allocated age-related licence plates for UK use (the licence plate letter reflects the production year in Japan), although new CBRs are allocated current year UK registration letter plates. Cornrnon changes rnade prior to sale in the UK are the disabling of the rev-lirniter device (or more correctly ‘speed-lirniter’ device), which is fitted to cornply with Japanese rnarket regulations. The device is located inthe speedorneter head and is linked to th

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YAMAHA XVS1100 (L) SERVICE MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 07-11-2010

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GENERAL INFORMATION MOTORCYCLE IDENTIFICATION EB100010 VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER The vehicle identification number 1 is stamped into the right side of the steering head. MODEL LABEL The model label 1 is affixed to the frame. This information will be needed to order spare parts. 1-2 IMPORTANT INFORMATION GEN INFO EB101000 IMPORTANT INFORMATION PREPARATION FOR REMOVAL PROCE- DURES 1. Remove all dirt, mud, dust and foreign material before removal and disassembly. 2. Use proper tools and cleaning equipment. Refer to the “SPECIAL TOOLS” section. 3. When disassembling the machine, always keep mated parts together. This includes gears, cylinders, pistons and other parts that have been “mated” through normal wear. Mated parts must always be reused or replaced as an assembly. 4. During machine disassembly, clean all parts and place them in trays in the order of disassembly. This will speed up assembly and allow for the correct installation of all parts. 5. Keep all parts away from any source of fire. EB101010 REPLACEMENT PARTS 1. Use only genuine Yamaha parts for all replacements. Use oil and grease recommended by Yamaha for all lubrication jobs. Other brands may be similar in function and appearance, but inferior in quality. EB101020 GASKETS, OIL SEALS AND O-RINGS 1. Replace all gaskets, seals and O-rings when overhauling the engine. All gasket surfaces, oil seal lips and O-rings must be cleaned. 2. Properly oil all mating parts and bearings during reassembly. Apply grease to the oil seal lips. 1-3 IMPORTANT INFORMATION GEN INFO CAUTION: EB101030 LOCK WASHERS/PLATES AND COTTER PINS 1. Replace all lock washers/plates 1 and cotter pins after removal. Bend lock tabs along the bolt or nut flats after the bolt or nut has been tightened to specification

HONDA GL-1500 Trailer Wire Harness with Relay INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 27-02-2011

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Seat: (if optional accessory wire is to be used) After removing trunk pan, run a stiff piece of wire from the bottom of the left saddlebag frame behind the rear tire up until it comes out under the trunk. Then hook open end of wire harness to fish wire and tape with electrical tape. Pull the harness back down to the bottom of the saddlebag frame. Route the long part of harness wire around the back of the license plate light to the right side 6-pin vertical connector just in front of tail light assembly. Unplug the stock connector and plug wire harness in between the stock plugs. Do the same for the left side with the short side of the Y on the harness. Now pull the slack down from the bottom of the harness and tuck all of the wires under the frames tubes so that the pan can be reinstalled without any problems. You can now hook up the loose ends of the harness to any style connector to match your trailer connector using the following color codes: GREEN GROUND ORANGE- LEFT TURN YELLOW- BRAKE BLUE- RIGHT TURN BROWN- TAIL RED POWER . Note : This accessory is an electronic isolated trailer wire harness. It should be installed by a qualified mechanic . 1. Disconnect the negative from the battery. 2. Install the harness. 3. When connecting to the trailer make sure all wires are used for the proper use and are waterproof. Make sure there are not exposed wires. Consult the trailer manufacturer for proper wiring. 4. Reconnect the battery negative. Double check the functions

YAMAHA YW50X SERVICE MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 25-11-2010

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1. Before removal and disassembly, remove all dirt, mud, dust and foreign material. 2. Use only the proper tools and cleaning equipment. Refer to the “SPECIAL TOOLS”. 3. When disassembling, always keep mated parts together. This includes gears, cylinders, pistons and other parts that have been “mated” through normal wear. Mated parts must always be reused or replaced as an assembly. 4. During disassembly, clean all of the parts and place them in trays in the order of disassembly. This will speed up assembly and allow for the correct installation of all parts. 5. Keep all parts away from any source of fire. EAS00021 REPLACEMENT PARTS Use only genuine Yamaha parts for all replacements. Use oil and grease recommended by Yamaha for all lubrication jobs. Other brands may be similar in function and appearance, but inferior in quality. EAS00022 GASKETS, OIL SEALS AND O-RINGS 1. When overhauling the engine, replace all gaskets, seals and O-rings. All gasket surfaces, oil seal lips and O-rings must be cleaned. 2. During reassembly, properly oil all mating parts and bearings and lubricate the oil seal lips with grease.
1-3 GEN INFO IMPORTANT INFORMATION EAS00023 LOCK WASHERS/PLATES AND COTTER PINS After removal, replace all lock washers/plates 1 and cotter pins. After the bolt or nut has been tightened to specification, bend the lock tabs along a flat of the bolt or nut. EAS00024 BEARINGS AND OIL SEALS Install bearings and oil seals so that the manufacturer’s marks or numbers are visible. When installing oil seals, lubricate the oil seal lips with a light coat of lithium-soap-based grease. Oil bearings liberally when installing, if appropriate. 1 Oil seal c C Do not spin the bearing with compressed air because this will damage the bearing surfaces. 1 Bearing

Harley Davidson Shift leverbracket INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 24-03-2012

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Installation of any parts should be performed by a qualified, trained mechanic. • All parts included in the Rocker Boards™Conversion Kit are intended to be used as sold. Modification of any part will void all warranties. • Installation should be performed on a motorcycle that is completely cool to avoid burns or other injuries. • Refer to a specific authorized Harley-Davidson service manual for correct disassembly and reassembly procedures for any parts that need to be removed to facilitate installation. • Motorcycle exhaust fumes are toxic and poisonous and must not be inhaled. Always run motorcycle in a well-ventilated area. • Do not perform any installation steps under the influence of alcohol, drugs, or if feeling fatigued. Warranty Briggs Made Cycle Parts, Inc. Rocker Boards™and all parts included in the conversion kit are warranted to the original purchaser to be free of manufacturing defects in materials and workmanship for a period of one (1) year from the original date of purchase. Any part that fails to conform to these conditions, will be repaired or replaced at the discretion of Briggs Made Cycle Parts, Inc. upon receipt of the defective part within the one year warranty period. In the event a part has been rendered defective, Briggs Made Cycle Parts, Inc. must be notified prior to the return of the defective part. Briggs Made Cycle Parts, Inc. will not be liable for any consequential or incidental damages resulting from the failure of any part, the breach of any warranties, the failure to deliver, delay in delivery or any other breach of duty between Briggs Made Cycle Parts, Inc. and a customer

2002 YAMAHA BT 1100 SERVICE MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 29-11-2010

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1. Remove all dirt, mud, dust and foreign material before removal and disassembly. 2. Use proper tools and cleaning equipment. Refer to the “SPECIALTOOLS” section. 3. When disassembling the machine, always keep mated parts together. This includes gears, cylinders, pistons and other parts that have been “mated” through normal wear. Mated parts must always be reused or replaced as an assembly. 4. During machine disassembly, clean all parts and place them in trays in the order of disassembly. This will speed up assembly and allow for the correct installation of all parts. 5. Keep all parts away from any source of fire. EB101010 REPLACEMENT PARTS 1. Use only genuine Yamaha parts for all replacements. Use oil and grease recommended by Yamaha for all lubrication jobs. Other brands may be similar in function and appearance, but inferior in quality. EB101020 GASKETS, OIL SEALS AND O-RINGS 1. Replace all gaskets, seals and O-rings when overhauling the engine. All gasket surfaces, oil seal lips and O-rings must be cleaned. 2. Properly oil all mating parts and bearings during reassembly. Apply grease to the oil seal lips.
GEN INFO IMPORTANT INFORMATION 1-3 EB101030 LOCK WASHERS/PLATES AND COTTER PINS 1. Replace all lock washers/plates 1and cotter pins after removal. Bend lock tabs along the bolt or nut flats after the bolt or nut has been tightened to specification. EB101040 BEARINGS AND OIL SEALS 1. Install bearings and oil seals so that the manufacturer’s marks or numbers are visible. When installing oil seals, apply a light coating of lightweight lithium base grease to the seal lips. Oil bearings liberally when installing, if appropriate. 1Oil seal Do not use compressed air to spin the bearings dry. This will damage the bearing sur- faces. 1Bearing CAUTION: EB101050 CIRCLIPS 1. Check all circlips carefully before reassembly. Always replace piston pin clips after one use. Replace distorted circlips. When installing a circlip 1, make sure that the sharp-edged corner 2is positioned opposite the thrust 3 it receives. See sectional view

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