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MOTORCYCLE ROLLER CHAIN Maintenance and Lubrication

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 27-11-2010

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Cleaning and Relubrication Perhaps the largest contributor to shortened chain life is inadequate lubrica- tion. All working parts of a chain should be lubricated uniformly. The use of the highest viscosity oil that allows for flow between the link plates and coats pin-bushing areas will normally provide the greatest wear resistance. Apply oil to the upper edges of link plates. This allows for the greatest access of oil to pin-bushing joints. For open drives, excess lubrication on outer chain surfaces should be removed, since it will either be thrown off during operation or serve to collect foreign materials. If foreign objects or surplus lubrication accumulates on chain surfaces to the extent of making re-lubrication of the joints impossible, the chain must be cleaned. Standard roller chains may be cleaned by washing in kerosene or any other good petroleum-based solvent. WARNING: These solvents are flammable. Agitate the chain to assure penetration of the solvent and a thorough flushing of the pin-bushing areas. Drain off excess solvent and inspect bushings and pins for wear. Replace the chain if wear is excessive or parts are fractured or missing. O-ring chains may be cleaned externallyby washing in kerosene. Do not use any other cleaning agent or the O-rings may be damaged. When cleaning O- ring chain, clean only the external areas of the chain. Do not attempt to force kerosene into the pin-bush cavity. Do not try to repair a worn-out chain by replacing individual links. The pitch of the new links will be shorter and will most likely result in chain fatigue failure and/or severe sprocket damage. For chains which are still usable, soak them in SAE 40 or 50 automotive engine oil (without additives). Flexing the chain in oil will assure greater penetration of lubricant. Inspect and clean sprockets. If sprockets are worn or damaged, they should be replaced.Installing new chain on worn out sprockets will significantly shorten the chain’s service life. WARNING: always wear eye protection when assembling or disassembling chain

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2009 TRIUMPH DAYTONA 675 Triumph/ Arrow Race Rearsets

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 12-11-2010

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race harness kit, air funnel kit, racing oil pump gearing kit, adjustable camshaft sprocket kit, manual camshaft tensioner and blade kit, a reusable engine cover gasket set and racing cylinder head gaskets. Here’s a closer look at the new racing parts and their associated performance improvements: TRACS – Triumph Race Calibration Software TRACS ( T riumph Ra ce C alibration S oftware) is a new computer program that allows racers to tune Triumph’s programmable race ECU from a laptop PC. Developed by one of Triumph’s most experienced EFI calibration engineers, the programmable ECU and software was created for the growing number of competitors that are riding Triumph motorcycles at the track. The new software provides racers with quick access to a wide range of adjustments that can be downloaded to the race ECU in about 35 seconds for tuning during testing, practice and qualifying sessions. Features include: Fully programmable fuel mapping (500rpm increments, for individual cylinders). Fully programmable ignition mapping. Switchable wet and dry maps. Adjustable pit lane speed limiter and speedo calibration. Adjustable quickshifter cut duration (adjustable at low, mid and high RPM) Adjustable rev limiter up to 15,000rpm. New software strategies to improve throttle progression. Optimized software to run faster to cater for the higher RPMs involved in a race environment. Ability to save multiple maps within the memory of the PC. Ability to update an existing 2007/2008 Race ECU to 2009 specification and functionality.* (*Not all features will be available if using the 2007/08 Race harness.) Exhaust – Triumph/Arrow Titanium “Stage 3″ System Triumph has continued to collaborate with Italian race exhaust specialists Arrow Special Parts to develop a new, full titanium racing exhaust system. This system complies with current FIM regulations, works as part of the factory race kit, and offers a significant weight reduction and considerable power gains.

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Harley-Davidson CHAIN DRIVE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 15-04-2012

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1) Assemble & install the chain tensioner assembly over the primary chain as shown in figure 1. 2) Install the compensator sprocket with extender & spacer (numbers 5, 6, & 7, FIG 2)(#7 is not included in this kit), primary chain, chain tensioner, and clutch basket simultaneously onto the motor drive shaft & transmission main shaft. Rotate the chain drive slightly as needed to allow the splines to line-up. 3) Install the chain tensioner nut loosely on the chain tensioner bolt. 4) Install the sliding cam onto the compensator sprocket, & slide the compensating sprocket cover-assembly (#3) over the cam. 5) Apply 2 drops of Rivera “Red” thread-lock on the threads of the motor drive shaft, & install the motor nut loosely with the fingers at this time. The hex spacer (#7) and spacer (#2) as seen in fig.2 are not provided in Rivera Engineering’s chain drive kit. These components are required with some applications, and can be purchased from your local Harley-Davidson dealer. FIG 2 6) Apply 2 drops of Rivera “red” thread-lock on the threads of the transmission main-shaft and loosely install the clutch hub nut (left hand threads). 7) Place the HD “Primary Drive Locking Tool” HD-41214 on the primary chain as shown in figure XXX and tighten the motor sprocket nut to 150-165 foot-pounds. 8)Turn the locking tool 180 degrees and move it to the clutch sprocket. Tighten the clutch hub nut to 70-80 foot pounds (left- hand thread). Adjust chain tension so that the top strand has 5/8″- to-7/8″ of up and down play (cold drive train). Tighten the center bolt nut to 21-29 foot pounds of torque.

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2002-2004 TRIUMPH BONNEVILLE AMERICA/ SPEEDMASTER CARBURETOR KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 28-10-2010

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A.) REAR WHEEL REMOVAL- PAGE 14-16 Triumph Motorcycle Service Manual 1.) Support motorcycle on center stand or center lift so rear wheel is suspended and there is clearance for removal. Use tie downs. 2.) If both wheels are raised chock the front wheel to prevent any weight shift when rear wheel is removed. 3.) Remove chain guard. 4.) Remove caliper and support so there is no strain on the brake line. 5.) Remove both silencers from exhaust headers. 6.) Remove axle nut and washer—support or chock rear wheel—and slide out axle. 7.) Disengage chain from sprocket and hang over swing—use soft cloth to protect swing arm from scratches that will occur if you do not cover. 8.) Lower wheel to the ground and collect spacer and caliper support arm and all fasteners for re-assembly. B.) REMOVE SEAT PAGE 15-9 Triumph Motorcycle Service Manual 1.) Remove the 12 mm bolt from rear seat section—if you have a pillion pad remove it first by removing the 8 mm bolt, slide forward and lift free of seat catch. Take a position where you can see what you are doing or you will scratch your painted surface. 2.) Lift seat from the rear and slide backwards to disengage tongue– collect all fasteners for re-assembly. C.) REMOVE REAR MUD GUARD PAGE 15-14 Triumph Motorcycle Service Manual 1.) Disconnect battery and remove from motorcycle. 2.) Disconnect electrical connectors on the underside of the mudguard. 3.) Support fender from beneath and remove the 4 side allen head mount bolts and 2 12mm hex head top front mount bolts– collect all fasteners for re-assembly. D.) REMOVE FUEL TANK PAGE 9-11 Triumph Motorcycle Service Manual 1.) Turn off fuel tap. 2.) Remove fuel line at the tap connection. 3.) Remove the 12mm rear tank-mounting bolt. 4.) With assistance from another set of hands support tank at the rear and lift so that the breather line is visible on the right side of the underside of tank—remove and plug line. 5.) With tank raised and supported at the rear slide backwards— disengaging it from the front mounting rubbers—set tank aside in a safe place to prevent any damage to the painted surface. E.) REMOVE SIDE COVERS PAGE 15-10 and 9-15 Triumph Motorcycle Service Manual 1.) Loosen and remove left side cover screws on the air filter facade— lift slightly to disengage top mounts and remove—set aside in a safe place to prevent damage to painted surface. 2.) On right side cover simply and gently pull bayonet fittings from rubber slip mounts. 3.) Secure these rubber mounts and remove for later re-assembly with the Bonneville Performance brackets.

2008 Triumph Rocket III specifications and pictures

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 06-11-2010

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Triumph Rocket III 2008 Picture credits – Triumph . Click to submit more pictures. 2008 Triumph Rocket III More pictures… Discuss this bike Rate this motorbike This bike’s rating Write a review Sell this motorcycle Such bikes for sale Tip a friend List related bikes General information Model: Triumph Rocket III Year: 2008 Category: Custom / cruiser Rating: 68.5 out of 100. Show full rating and compare with other bikes Engine and transmission Displacement: 2294.00 ccm (139.98 cubic inches) Engine type: In-line three Stroke: 4 Power: 140.00 HP (102.2 kW)) @ 6000 RPM Torque: 147.00 Nm (15.0 kgf-m or 108.4 ft.lbs) @ 2500 RPM Compression: 8.7:1 Bore x stroke: 101.6 x 94.3 mm (4.0 x 3.7 inches) Fuel system: Injection. Multipoint sequential electronic fuel injection Fuel control: DOHC Ignition: Digital – inductive type – via electronic engine management system Cooling system: Liquid Gearbox: 5-speed Transmission type final drive: Shaft drive (cardan) Clutch: Wet. multi-plate Physical measures Dry weight: 319.3 kg (704.0 pounds) Seat height: 739 mm (29.1 inches) If adjustable, lowest setting. Overall height: 1,166 mm (45.9 inches) Overall length: 2,499 mm (98.4 inches) Overall width: 970 mm (38.2 inches) Wheelbase: 1,694 mm (66.7 inches) Chassis and dimensions Frame type: Tubular steel. twin spine Rake (fork angle): 32.0° Front suspension: 43mm upside down forks Rear suspension: Chromed spring twin shocks with adjustable preload Front tyre dimensions: 150/80-R17 Rear tyre dimensions: 240/50-R16 Front brakes: Double disc Front brakes diameter: 320 mm (12.6 inches) Rear brakes: Single disc Rear brakes diameter: 316 mm (12.4 inches) Speed and acceleration Fuel capacity: 23.84 litres (6.30 gallons) Color options: Claret. Phantom Black Further information Parts and accessories Check out parts and accessories from our partners. Ask questions Join the 08 Triumph Rocket III discussion group, the new Triumph forum at Bikez.name or the new Custom / cruiser forum at Bikez.name. Insurance, loans, testsSearch the web for dealers, loan and insurance costs, tests, customizing, etc. Related bikes List related bikes for comparison of specs

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TRIUMPH BONNEVILLE, T-100 BONNEVILLE AND THRUXTON 900 CARBURETOR KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 28-10-2010

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REAR WHEEL REMOVAL- PAGE 14-14 Triumph Motorcycle Service Manual 1.) Support motorcycle on center stand or center lift so rear wheel is suspended and there is clearance for removal. Use tie downs. 2.) If both wheels are raised chock the front wheel to prevent any weight shift when rear wheel is removed. 3.) Remove chain guard. 4.) Remove caliper and support so there is no strain on the brake line. 5.) Remove both silencers from exhaust headers. 6.) Remove axle nut and washer—support or chock rear wheel—and slide out axle. 7.) Disengage chain from sprocket and hang over swing—use soft cloth to protect swing arm from scratches that will occur if you do not cover. 8.) Lower wheel to the ground and collect spacer and caliper support arm and all fasteners for re-assembly. B.) REMOVE SEAT PAGE 15-9 Triumph Motorcycle Service Manual 1.) Remove the 2 allen-screws from rear seat section. 2.) Lift seat from the rear and slide backwards to disengage tongue– collect all fasteners for re-assembly. C.) REMOVE REAR MUD GUARD PAGE 15-13 Triumph Motorcycle Service Manual 1.) Disconnect battery and remove from motorcycle. 2.) Disconnect electrical connectors on the underside of the mudguard. 3.) Support fender from beneath and remove the 4 Torx head screws– collect all fasteners for re-assembly. D.) REMOVE FUEL TANK PAGE 9-10 Triumph Motorcycle Service Manual 1.) Turn off fuel tap. 2.) Remove fuel line at the tap connection. 3.) Remove both rear tank-mounting bolts. 4.) With assistance from another set of hands support tank at the rear and lift so that the breather line is visible on the right side of the underside of tank—remove and plug line. 5.) With tank raised and supported at the rear slide backwards— disengaging it from the front mounting rubbers—set tank aside in a safe place to prevent any damage to the painted surface

Yamaha YZ 250F Camshafts REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 30-12-2011

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Remove the 4 bolts that hold the exhaust cam cap in place, lift the cam cap off. It may be necessary to pry very lightly on the cap to lift it off its dowel pins. Do not use the cam lobes as the pry point. Be careful not to drop the dowels and also be careful to not lose the half moon shaped retainer for the bearing under the cam cap. Remove the 6 bolts that hold the intake camshaft cap and lift the cam cap off the camshaft, again, be careful to not drop the retainer or dowels. Lift the intake camshaft out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting. Remove the cam chain from the sprocket, set the stock camshaft aside. Lift the exhaust cam out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting and remove the chain from the sprocket. Do not drop the cam chain, dangle it over the side of the engine while keeping slight upward pressure on the chain to maintain its position on the drive sprocket on the crankshaft. Fit the half moon shaped retainers in the grooves of the Hot Cams camshaft bearings to ensure good fit, set retainers aside for the time. Using assembly lube, lube the shim buckets, bearing surfaces for the camshafts in the cylinder head, and pack some in the camshaft bearings. Set the exhaust cam into the cylinder head casting while at the same time fitting the cam chain over the sprocket. Make sure that you keep all the cam chain slack to the back of the engine. The cam chain pulls the camshaft sprockets in a counter clockwise direction and the slack of the chain must be kept on the cam chain tensioner side of the engine. The exhaust cam has two timing marks on it. When correctly installed one mark will be at the 9 o’clock position and the other mark will be at the 12 o’clock position. When correctly timed the mark at 9 o’clock will be aligned with the valve cover gasket surface. Repeat the above process for the intake camshaft. Again, make sure you keep the chain slack to the cam chain tensioner side of the engine. Check to be sure the crankshaft is still at TDC. The intake cam has two timing marks also. One at 12 o’clock and the other at 3 o’clock. When both cams are installed correctly, the valve cover gasket surface will form a straight line through the exhaust timing mark at 9 o’clock and the intake timing mark at 3 o’clock

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Yamaha YZ400/426F Camshafts REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 01-01-2012

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Cleanliness is always a good place to start. Make sure the motorcycle is cleaned thoroughly before you start. It would be advisable to use an engine degreaser on the frame and the engine. This will ensure a clean engine during the assembly process and less of a chance of thread damage and/or dirt contamination in the engine during reassembly. And as always, replace any fiber-based gasket that was moved in any way, i.e.: cam chain tensioner. You will need basic hand tools and a torque wrench, machine towels (rags), some cleaning solvent, and a cam chain tensioner gasket. And the Hot Cams’ Degree Wheel Kit if you so desire. We will start by removing the tank and seat, top engine mount, and the cam cover. Remove the crankshaft cap and timing hole cap on the left engine case cover. Remove the spark plug. Rotate the engine in a counter clockwise (CCW) direction. Position the engine on top dead center (TDC) using the mark on the flywheel or better yet a degree wheel using a positive stop. Be sure to notice that the intake valves were the last to move, this will ensure the engine of being on “true” TDC. True top dead center occurs when both the intake and exhaust valve are closed when the piston is at TDC. This is technically the end of the compression stroke and the Page 1
beginning of the power stroke. The “artificial” TDC is during the overlap when both the intake and exhaust valves would be open. Note the positioning of the cam lobes (their included angle will be close to 170 degrees), this will help during the installation of your new Hot Cams camshafts Remove the cap bolt on the end of the cam chain tensioner block, be aware of the copper washer. Release the spring tension on the cam chain tensioner by turning the flat blade screw slot inside the adjuster block in a clockwise (CW) direction; it will lock in the retracted position. Remove the two 8mm headed bolts that hold the cam chain tensioner to the cylinder block. Remove and discard the gasket. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the exhaust cam cap in place, lift the cam cap off. It may be necessary to pry very lightly on the cap to lift it off its dowel pins. Do not use the cam lobes as the pry point. Be careful not to drop the dowels and also be careful to not lose the half moon shaped retainer for the bearing under the cam cap. Remove the 6 bolts that secure the intake cam cap and lift the cam cap off the camshaft, again, be careful to not drop the retainer or dowels. Lift the intake camshaft out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting. Remove the cam chain from the sprocket, set the stock camshaft aside. Lift the exhaust camshaft out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting and remove the chain from the sprocket. Do not drop the cam chain, dangle it over the side of the engine while keeping slight upward pressure on the chain to maintain its position on the drive sprocket on the crankshaft

Kawasaki KFX KLX 400 Camshafts Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Remove the plug bolt from the back of the cam chain tensioner assembly. It is under pressure from the spring. Remove the spring and pin. Remove the bolts and tensioner assembly from the cylinder. Release the lock on the tensioner assembly and push the tensioner rod into the assembly so that it is fully retracted. Remove the eight 5mm Allen headed bolts that hold the cam caps in place. Remove the cam caps; be aware of the locating dowels in the caps to keep them from falling into the engine. It may be necessary to pry very lightly on the caps to lift them off their dowel pins. Do not use the cam lobe as the pry point. Lift the intake camshaft out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting. Remove the cam chain from the sprocket, set the stock camshaft aside. Lift the exhaust cam out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting and remove the chain from the sprocket. Do not drop the cam chain; dangle it over the side of the engine while keeping slight upward pressure on the chain to maintain its position on the drive sprocket on the crankshaft. Using assembly lube, lube the shim buckets and bearing surfaces for the camshafts in the cylinder head. Set the exhaust camshaft into the cylinder head casting while at the same time fitting the cam chain over the sprocket. Make sure that you keep all the cam chain slack to the back of the engine. Repeat the above process for the intake camshaft. Again, make sure you keep the chain slack to the cam chain tensioner side of the engine. Check to be sure the crankshaft is still at TDC. Check the location of the cam lobes. The camshafts are marked, and preset to 108-degree centers. If the lobes are not where they should be, adjust the positioning of the camshaft by rotating the sprocket one tooth on the chain. Do this until it is in the correct position as before you removed the camshafts. Check the positioning of the crankshaft for the TDC mark

CCS- 100 ELECTRONIC CRUISE CONTROL INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 10-11-2010

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UNDER HOOD INSTALLATION Connecting the Cruise Control Cable to the Throttle NOTE: Prior to attaching servo cable to throttle, locate an accessible area to mount the cruise control servo, but do not mount it. Leave the servo in this area (unmounted) and route cable to throttle attachment area. CAUTION: Attach the cruise control cable so that it parallels the existing throttle cable as nearly as possible. Choose a mounting method from the figures below: Attachment area for securing cable Bead Chain Coupling Sleeve (#23) Bead Chain Coupling (#24) 3 BEAD CONNECTOR FIG. 6 FIG. 7 FORD LINKAGE ADAPTOR Rubber Ring WIRE LOOP FOR PULLEY Carburetor Existing Snap-On Throttle Arm On Vehicle FIG. 2 SNAP-ON THROTTLE ARM MOUNT FIG. 3 CLAMP-ON THROTTLE ARM MOUNT Determine a suitable point on the throttle linkage to mount the cable connector. The mounting point chosen should have between 1-1/2″ to 2″ total linkage travel. It must operate smoothly by hand. There should be at least 5 beads between the throttle connector and servo cable end. The cable must pull in a straight line from throttle linkage. Some vehicles that do not have enough total linkage travel have to be connected at the accelerator pedal. The bead chain and servo cable end must be inserted into the bead chain connector. Then the bead chain coupling sleeve must slide over bead chain connector to insure that the end will not hang in the connector. FIG. 1 Cable Bead Chain Eyelet Connector (#25) Pull off Throttle Arm and Insert Bead Chain Connector between it and Carburetor Arm. Be sure additional thickness of adaptor does not bind linkage. 20° Bead Chain Eyelet Connector (#25) Cable Must Be within 20° of same angle as Throttle Rod Throttle Cable Throttle Wire Loop (#29) Barrel Wire Adaptor (#30) WIRE BARREL FOR PULLEY FIG. 5 FIG. 4

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