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Yamaha YZ 250F Camshafts REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 30-12-2011

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Remove the 4 bolts that hold the exhaust cam cap in place, lift the cam cap off. It may be necessary to pry very lightly on the cap to lift it off its dowel pins. Do not use the cam lobes as the pry point. Be careful not to drop the dowels and also be careful to not lose the half moon shaped retainer for the bearing under the cam cap. Remove the 6 bolts that hold the intake camshaft cap and lift the cam cap off the camshaft, again, be careful to not drop the retainer or dowels. Lift the intake camshaft out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting. Remove the cam chain from the sprocket, set the stock camshaft aside. Lift the exhaust cam out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting and remove the chain from the sprocket. Do not drop the cam chain, dangle it over the side of the engine while keeping slight upward pressure on the chain to maintain its position on the drive sprocket on the crankshaft. Fit the half moon shaped retainers in the grooves of the Hot Cams camshaft bearings to ensure good fit, set retainers aside for the time. Using assembly lube, lube the shim buckets, bearing surfaces for the camshafts in the cylinder head, and pack some in the camshaft bearings. Set the exhaust cam into the cylinder head casting while at the same time fitting the cam chain over the sprocket. Make sure that you keep all the cam chain slack to the back of the engine. The cam chain pulls the camshaft sprockets in a counter clockwise direction and the slack of the chain must be kept on the cam chain tensioner side of the engine. The exhaust cam has two timing marks on it. When correctly installed one mark will be at the 9 o’clock position and the other mark will be at the 12 o’clock position. When correctly timed the mark at 9 o’clock will be aligned with the valve cover gasket surface. Repeat the above process for the intake camshaft. Again, make sure you keep the chain slack to the cam chain tensioner side of the engine. Check to be sure the crankshaft is still at TDC. The intake cam has two timing marks also. One at 12 o’clock and the other at 3 o’clock. When both cams are installed correctly, the valve cover gasket surface will form a straight line through the exhaust timing mark at 9 o’clock and the intake timing mark at 3 o’clock

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2005 HONDA CBR 600RR Superbike BRAKE LINES INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 03-01-2011

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Step 1: Identify the key components that complete our Super bike KIT, you should have 2 lines (front Kit), and 1 Double banjo bolt and 2 lower adapters. There are also a total of 7 washers, 5 will be used, and 2 are spares. We ALWAYS strongly suggest having a professional mechanic install these brake lines, all other installations VOID warranty. Inspect your brake system after every race. Step 2: Cover the complete front end of the bike so that if any brake fluid does spill the paint will not be damaged, brake fluid will spill, there is no question!! Step 3: Uninstall stock hoses; be aware of how the stock system was routed in case you need to re-install it. Step 4: Install onto the calipers the Galfer adapter, the course thread area threads to the caliper with one washer. Torque level is 12 to 13 ft pounds. (See picture on adapter A) Step 5: Install right and left lines to the master cylinder, the right line is the shortest out of the two lines. These lines will travel from the master cylinder to the calipers; a double banjo bolt is included to run two lines down. (Picture B). This is the sequence on the master cylinder: Master cylinder, washer, straight banjo (from right line), washer, 12 degree banjo (from left line) washer and double banjo hex. Double banjo bolt torque level is 12 FT Pounds . (For positioning see picture G). Banjo 12 on left line must be facing a bit more to the left than the straight banjo of right line, so that the lines can cross at lower triple clamp better. On the calipers, make sure that the 90-degree fittings are pointing out a little bit, thread banjo end to the adapter, torque the end to 6 ½ Ft pounds . (See pictures C, D, E) Before you begin bleeding process, please check for clearance of the lines, push on the front end down, see that the lines are not binding with anything and that when the front end is fully extended or fully under pressure the lines are traveling correctly and clear from any obstructions. Ones the lines have been check for clearance; the two lines are Zip tied together at the same level of the lower triple clamp area. (See pictures F), please make sure that lines cross each other. Step 6: Bleed system, conventional bleeding, pump and release the air from caliper bleed nipples… DOT 4-brake fluid is recommended.

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Yamaha YZ400/426F Camshafts REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 01-01-2012

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Cleanliness is always a good place to start. Make sure the motorcycle is cleaned thoroughly before you start. It would be advisable to use an engine degreaser on the frame and the engine. This will ensure a clean engine during the assembly process and less of a chance of thread damage and/or dirt contamination in the engine during reassembly. And as always, replace any fiber-based gasket that was moved in any way, i.e.: cam chain tensioner. You will need basic hand tools and a torque wrench, machine towels (rags), some cleaning solvent, and a cam chain tensioner gasket. And the Hot Cams’ Degree Wheel Kit if you so desire. We will start by removing the tank and seat, top engine mount, and the cam cover. Remove the crankshaft cap and timing hole cap on the left engine case cover. Remove the spark plug. Rotate the engine in a counter clockwise (CCW) direction. Position the engine on top dead center (TDC) using the mark on the flywheel or better yet a degree wheel using a positive stop. Be sure to notice that the intake valves were the last to move, this will ensure the engine of being on “true” TDC. True top dead center occurs when both the intake and exhaust valve are closed when the piston is at TDC. This is technically the end of the compression stroke and the Page 1
beginning of the power stroke. The “artificial” TDC is during the overlap when both the intake and exhaust valves would be open. Note the positioning of the cam lobes (their included angle will be close to 170 degrees), this will help during the installation of your new Hot Cams camshafts Remove the cap bolt on the end of the cam chain tensioner block, be aware of the copper washer. Release the spring tension on the cam chain tensioner by turning the flat blade screw slot inside the adjuster block in a clockwise (CW) direction; it will lock in the retracted position. Remove the two 8mm headed bolts that hold the cam chain tensioner to the cylinder block. Remove and discard the gasket. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the exhaust cam cap in place, lift the cam cap off. It may be necessary to pry very lightly on the cap to lift it off its dowel pins. Do not use the cam lobes as the pry point. Be careful not to drop the dowels and also be careful to not lose the half moon shaped retainer for the bearing under the cam cap. Remove the 6 bolts that secure the intake cam cap and lift the cam cap off the camshaft, again, be careful to not drop the retainer or dowels. Lift the intake camshaft out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting. Remove the cam chain from the sprocket, set the stock camshaft aside. Lift the exhaust camshaft out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting and remove the chain from the sprocket. Do not drop the cam chain, dangle it over the side of the engine while keeping slight upward pressure on the chain to maintain its position on the drive sprocket on the crankshaft

HARLEY DAVIDSON XL BRAIDED FRONT BRAKE LINE KITS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 30-03-2011

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REMOVAL Direct contact of D.O.T. 5 brake fluid with eyes can cause eye irritation, swelling, and redness. Avoid eye contact. In case of eye contact flush with large amounts of water and get medical attention. Swallowing large amounts of D.O.T. 5 brake fluid can cause digestive discomfort. If swallowed, obtain medical attention. Use in well ventilated area. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN. (00144a) Direct contact of D.O.T. 4 brake fluid with eyes can cause irritation. Avoid eye contact. In case of eye contact flush with large amounts of water and get medical attention. Swallowing large amounts of D.O.T. 4 brake fluid can cause digestive discomfort. If swallowed, obtain medical attention. Use in well ventilated area. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN. (00240a) D.O.T. 4 brake fluid will damage painted and body panel surfaces it comes in contact with. Always use caution and protect surfaces from spills whenever brake work is performed. Failure to comply can result in cosmetic damage. (00239b) 1. Drain the brake fluid following the instructions in the service manual. Dispose of waste properly. To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, remove main fuse before proceeding. (00251b) 2. Disconnect the battery, negative (-) cable first or remove the main fuse. Follow the instructions in the service manual 3. Remove bolt and two sealing washers to disconnect brake line fitting from master cylinder. Discard sealing washers, but save bolt for installation. 4. Remove bolt and two sealing washers to disconnect brake line fitting from front brake caliper. Discard sealing washers, but save bolt for installation. 5. Carefully make note of brake line routing, then remove existing brake line. NOTE This kit contains clamps and cable straps to either replace the original equipment clamps and cable straps being removed or to add additional brake line support. INSTALLATION Install proper length brake lines. Incorrect brake line length can adversely affect motorcycle operation, which could cause loss of control resulting in death or serious injury. (00325a) Replace brake line gaskets. Re-using original gaskets can cause brake failure and loss of vehicle control, which could result in death or serious injury. (00318a) Avoid leakage. Be sure gaskets, banjo bolt(s) and brake line are clean and undamaged before assembly. (00323a) 1. Position new sealing washers from kit on each side of hydraulic brake fittings (banjo fittings). Small ID washers are for caliper end, large ID washers are for master cylinder end. 2. Insert bolts (removed earlier) through washers and fittings. 3. Hold new braided brake line in position and install bolts into master cylinder and caliper. Tighten only enough to keep banjo fitting in the same orientation as the stock banjo fitting. 4. Verify there is no twist in the brake line. Adjust brake line if necessary. 5. Install clamps from kit by wrapping clamp around braided brake line at each of the clamp mounting locations. Verify clamps are oriented the same as the stock clamps. Install clamp screws but do not tighten. 6. Check entire length of braided brake line: a. Be sure brake line is not twisted. b. Turn handlebars fully-left and right while checking to make sure brake line does not contact any vehicle components. c. Be sure brake line length between clamps is sufficient. 7. Adjust brake line if necessary. 8. Tighten caliper and master cylinder banjo bolts to 20-25 ft-lbs (27-34 Nm) .

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Kawasaki KFX KLX 400 Camshafts Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Remove the plug bolt from the back of the cam chain tensioner assembly. It is under pressure from the spring. Remove the spring and pin. Remove the bolts and tensioner assembly from the cylinder. Release the lock on the tensioner assembly and push the tensioner rod into the assembly so that it is fully retracted. Remove the eight 5mm Allen headed bolts that hold the cam caps in place. Remove the cam caps; be aware of the locating dowels in the caps to keep them from falling into the engine. It may be necessary to pry very lightly on the caps to lift them off their dowel pins. Do not use the cam lobe as the pry point. Lift the intake camshaft out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting. Remove the cam chain from the sprocket, set the stock camshaft aside. Lift the exhaust cam out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting and remove the chain from the sprocket. Do not drop the cam chain; dangle it over the side of the engine while keeping slight upward pressure on the chain to maintain its position on the drive sprocket on the crankshaft. Using assembly lube, lube the shim buckets and bearing surfaces for the camshafts in the cylinder head. Set the exhaust camshaft into the cylinder head casting while at the same time fitting the cam chain over the sprocket. Make sure that you keep all the cam chain slack to the back of the engine. Repeat the above process for the intake camshaft. Again, make sure you keep the chain slack to the cam chain tensioner side of the engine. Check to be sure the crankshaft is still at TDC. Check the location of the cam lobes. The camshafts are marked, and preset to 108-degree centers. If the lobes are not where they should be, adjust the positioning of the camshaft by rotating the sprocket one tooth on the chain. Do this until it is in the correct position as before you removed the camshafts. Check the positioning of the crankshaft for the TDC mark

HARLEY DAVIDSON HYBRID CAM PLATE AND HIGH FLOW OIL PUMP KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 07-02-2011

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REMOVAL To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect battery cables (negative (-) cable first) before proceeding. (00307a) Disconnect negative (-) battery cable first. If positive (+) cable should contact ground with negative (-) cable connected, the resulting sparks can cause a battery explosion, which could result in death or serious injury. (00049a) 1. Refer to the service manual and follow the instructions to remove the seat and disconnect the battery cables, negative (-) cable first. Retain all seat mounting hardware. Gasoline can drain from the carburetor fuel line when disconnected from fuel valve fitting. Gasoline is extremely flammable and highly explosive, which could result in death or serious injury. Wipe up spilled fuel immediately and dispose of rags in a suitable manner. (00256a) NOTES Installing this kit requires removal and installation of the cam support plate. Refer to the service manual for instructions with the following exception pertaining to cam compartment compo- nents: The crank and primary cam sprocket flange bolts are specially hardened, and the flat washers are of a special diameter and have ground surfaces. Use ONLY the parts provided in the Drive Gear Retention Kit (H-D Part Number 25533-99A, sold separately) when installing this kit. -J04804 1 of 7
The cr ank sprocket flange bolts and pr imary cam sproc ket flange bolts ARE NOT interchangeable. 2. Refer to the service manual to remove and discard the crank sprocket flange bolts and primary cam sprocket flange bolts and washers. 3. For 1999 models only: Refer to the service manual to remove and discard the currently installed cam drive sprocket. 4. Refer to the service manual to remove and disassemble the cams from the support plate and oil pump. Discard the support plate and oil pump. 5. For 1999 – 2000 Dyna, 2000 Softail, 1999 – 2000 Touring, and 2001 EFI Touring models only: Inspect the cams, chain, sprockets and chain tensioners for wear, and replace as needed. Refer to the service manual for inspection and replacement procedures. For 2001 – 2005 Dyna, 2001 – 2006 Softail, 2002 – 2006 Touring, and 2001 carbureted Touring models only: Inspect the cams and secondary cam chain for wear, and replace as needed. Refer to the service manual for inspection and replacement procedures. The primary cam chain, primary sprockets and both tensioners will be replaced by new components from the kit. For ALL models and years: Discard the guide, as it will not be used. INSTALLATION 1. ALL models: See Figure 1. Obtain the new Rear Cam Roller Bearing Kit (H-D Part Number 8983) from inside the Cam Service Kit (H-D Part Number 17045-99C, purchased separately), and install as indicated in Step 2. NOTE See Figure 2. If not enough of the splined shaft is exposed to install the sprocket, omit the spacer (4) and proceed to Step 2e. When the bearing inner race is started onto the machined area, remove the flange bolt (5), flat washer (6) and sprocket, then assemble using the spacer (4). Repeat Step 2e to fully install bearing inner race. To center thrust washer, be sure o-ring is installed in relief groove. Damage to bearing cage and engine can occur if thrust washer is not centered. (00473b) 2. See Figure 1. Install the O-ring (5), thrust washer (4) and bearing inner race (3) onto the rear camshaft as follows: a. See Figure 2. To properly locate the thrust washer (2), install the O-ring (3) in the grinding relief groove on the splined end of the rear camshaft between the machined area and the secondary cam sprocket.

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2008 Kawasaki ZG1400 Concours ABS Front 3-Line Kit and FK003D625R Single Line Rear INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 29-01-2011

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Step 1: Identify the key components that complete our front brake line kit: You should have three (3) hoses, one (1) double banjo bolt, and two (2) single banjo bolts There are also a total of nine (9) washers and (3) brass conic inversors. Seven (7) washers and two (2) inversors will be used; the rest are spares. If you have purchased a rear kit as well, locate the following additional pieces: One (1) hose with bracket and c-clip attached, one (1) single banjo bolt, two (2) brass inversors and three (3) washers. You will use one (1) “olive” conic inversor and two (2) washers, the rest are spares. Step 2: To ensure no paint damage from a brake fluid spill, completely cover the front end of the bike. This process can be messy, and brake fluid WILL drip! Step 3: After drying out the OEM brake system, uninstall stock hoses. On the front brake line kit, we are replacing three hoses and their respective blocks (see pictures 1-2 for blocks) . For the rear, we are replacing one hose from the master cylinder to the ABS hard line. Take note of how the stock system was routed, in case you need to reinstall it. Step 4: Locate Line A – This will travel from the master cylinder to the ABS Junction. (See picture 3) You will use a single banjo bolt and two washers at the master cylinder, and an “olive” inversor to thread female end to hard pipe for incoming ABS (right side). * We have replaced the block at the upper triple clamp with a c-clip; please use your stock bolt to thread this in. (See picture 4) Locate Line B – This will travel from the ABS Junction to the right caliper. First, thread the female end to the hard pipe for outgoing ABS (left side). There will be a bolt from the OEM blocks at ABS Junction; please use this to thread c-clips into frame as shown in picture 5 . There is another bolt/OEM block located at the lower triple clamp; please use this to thread the c-clip in as seen in picture 6. Locate Line C – This will cross over the front fender using OEM holders, from right caliper to left caliper. Thread caliper banjos from Line B and C using the following sequence: double banjo hex, washer, 40- degree banjo from Line C, washer, 20-degree banjo from Line B, washer, caliper. Please see pictures 7 and 8 for reference. Thread single banjo bolt into left caliper, using two washers and 40-degree banjo. If applicable, locate rear Line D – this will travel from the rear master cylinder to the hard line for ABS. Thread the hard pipe into female end using a “olive” inversor, and attach bracket to swingarm as seen in picture 9 . Use the bolt from the holder for ABS hose, and sit our bracket on top of the OEM holder. Using the bolt from the OEM ABS hose holder in location shown in picture 10 , attach the c-clip on top of holder and tighten. Finally, thread 30-degree banjo in caliper using the following sequence: single banjo hex, washer, banjo, washer, caliper

Harley-Davidson Twin Cam Engines Cam Chain Drive System Installation and removal MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 27-03-2012

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Removing the Cam Chain Drive System. NOTES Changing camshafts and cam drives in the 2006-up Harley-Davidson® Twin Cam 88® engines is different than in pervious engines. Procedures require use • of some special tools. Installation should be done by an experienced mechanic with access to factory service manual and required tools. Tighten all fasteners to the correct specifications and in order described. Always use an accurate torque wench. • Incorrect installation can cause engine damage not covered under warranty. CAUTION Failure to install components correctly can result in sudden engine seizure. Engine seizure may result in serous injury to motorcycle operator, passenger, or others. A- Disconnect the battery ground cable to eliminate potential sparks and inadvertently engagement of the starter while working on the motorcycle. B- Remove spark plugs and pushrod cover clips. Collapse the pushrod covers to expose the pushrods. C- Safely elevate and stabilize the rear of the motorcycle. Place the transmission in high gear. Turn the rear wheel to rotate the engine until both lifters and pushrods for either cylinder are at the lowest point on the camshaft (TDC of compression stroke). Both intake and exhaust pushrods for that cylinder will be under pressure from the valve springs and will rotate with light finger pressure. NOTE: 510G camshafts may use stock style non-adjustable pushrods instead of adjustable pushrods. If installing non-adjustable pushrods, disassemble and assemble rocker boxes per H-D® instructions. All other S&S® gear driven cams require installing adjustable pushrods. As a time-saving measure, the stock pushrods can be removed with bolt cutters. Be sure to head caution and warnings of these instructions. D- Cut the pushrods for the cylinder that is at TDC with the bolt cutter and remove the pushrod covers from the engine. Rotate the engine to place the pushrods for the other cylinder at their lowest point. Cut and remove the remaining pushrods. WARNING CAUTION Cutting pushrods with a saw or cutoff wheel may result in debris entering the engine, causing engine damage not covered under warranty. WARNING Cutting pushrods without releasing spring pressure, by rotating the engine until tappets are at the lowest point of travel can result in bodily injury. E- Remove the pushrod covers and lifters form the crankcase. F- Remove engine cam cover and gasket. Secure lifers with a tool made from a large binder clip

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MOTORCYCLE ROLLER CHAIN Maintenance and Lubrication

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 27-11-2010

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Cleaning and Relubrication Perhaps the largest contributor to shortened chain life is inadequate lubrica- tion. All working parts of a chain should be lubricated uniformly. The use of the highest viscosity oil that allows for flow between the link plates and coats pin-bushing areas will normally provide the greatest wear resistance. Apply oil to the upper edges of link plates. This allows for the greatest access of oil to pin-bushing joints. For open drives, excess lubrication on outer chain surfaces should be removed, since it will either be thrown off during operation or serve to collect foreign materials. If foreign objects or surplus lubrication accumulates on chain surfaces to the extent of making re-lubrication of the joints impossible, the chain must be cleaned. Standard roller chains may be cleaned by washing in kerosene or any other good petroleum-based solvent. WARNING: These solvents are flammable. Agitate the chain to assure penetration of the solvent and a thorough flushing of the pin-bushing areas. Drain off excess solvent and inspect bushings and pins for wear. Replace the chain if wear is excessive or parts are fractured or missing. O-ring chains may be cleaned externallyby washing in kerosene. Do not use any other cleaning agent or the O-rings may be damaged. When cleaning O- ring chain, clean only the external areas of the chain. Do not attempt to force kerosene into the pin-bush cavity. Do not try to repair a worn-out chain by replacing individual links. The pitch of the new links will be shorter and will most likely result in chain fatigue failure and/or severe sprocket damage. For chains which are still usable, soak them in SAE 40 or 50 automotive engine oil (without additives). Flexing the chain in oil will assure greater penetration of lubricant. Inspect and clean sprockets. If sprockets are worn or damaged, they should be replaced.Installing new chain on worn out sprockets will significantly shorten the chain’s service life. WARNING: always wear eye protection when assembling or disassembling chain

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HARLEY DAVIDSON FLTR DETACHABLE TOUR-PAK ANTENNA RELOCATION KIT

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 19-02-2011

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Drilling Instructions for Antenna Base Mounting and Cable Routing 1. See Figure 1. Measure and determine the center of the outside rear Tour-Pak wall. 2. Lay a strip of 2 inch wide masking tape from top to bottom over the approximate center. 3. Very carefully measure again and mark the center near the top of the tape strip. Measure and mark the center near the bottom of the strip. 4. Draw a line from the top mark to the bottom mark. 5. Facing the centerline you have drawn, measure 9-1/4 inches from the center line to the left side. 6. At the 9-1/4 inch dimension, lay a vertical strip of 2 inch masking tape from the top to approximately the middle of the Tour-Pak wall. 7. Very carefully measure again and mark 9-1/4 inches from the top of center line to the top of the tape strip. Measure and mark 9-1/4 inches from the bottom of the center line to the bottom of the strip. 8. Draw a vertical line from the top mark to the bottom mark. 9. Measure 1-1/4 inches from the top edge, down the vertical line you have drawn and draw a short horizontal line across the vertical line. 10. Measure 1-1/2 inches down the vertical line you have drawn from your FIRST short horizontal line and draw another short horizontal line across the vertical line

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