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KAWASAKI TERYX EFI Installation Instructions.

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 08-02-2011

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Basic Tuning Adjustments 1. The following instructions are for basic fuel tuning. Modes 1,2, & 3 are allowing adjustments to increase and decrease the amount of fuel the engine needs. Modes 4 & 5 are for advanced tuning only. DO NOT change modes 4 & 5 when doing basic tuning! 2. To help understand how these modes work, you can think of them as if you were working with a carburetor. 3. Remember each time you push the MODE button you will be advancing to the next mode. Push the MODE button once and you are now in mode 1, push the MODE button again and you are now in mode 2 and so on. You only need to be concerned with modes 1, 2 & 3 for basic tuning. Modes 4 & 5 are for advanced tuning ONLY. 4. If you need to go back to the settings that were pre programmed when you purchased the controller, just look at the picture in each mode, the colored square represents where the settings were when you purchased the controller. 5. Looking at the controller you will see eight lights with numbers under them, this is what you need to look at when changing settings. The #1 light on the controller represents the leanest setting. TRINITY RACING DOES NOT TAKE REPONSIBLITY FOR DAMAGES THAT MAY OCCUR DURING OPERATION OF YOUR VEHICLE UNDER IMPROPER JET SETTINGS. IT IS THE FINAL RESPONSIBLITY OF THE OWNER/RIDER TO ADJUST JETTING TO SPECIFIC RIDING CONDITIONS AND ELEVATION BEFORE RIDING. WARNING! 1.877.FAS TOYS 2.Remove both seats 6. Re-install engine cover and seats. 6. Mode 1 green light represents idle & cruise adjustment (i.e. pilot jet). To adjust this setting push the MODE button once and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. 7. Mode 2 yellow light represents an additional amount of fuel added during acceleration (i.e. needle position). To adjust this setting, push MODE twice and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. 12 34 56 7 8 12 34 56 7 8 8. Mode 3 red light represents more fuel being added during full throttle (i.e. main jet). To adjust this setting push the MODE button three times and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. 9. If you are confident about your tuning skills and feel you need to adjust other parameters, see Advanced Tuning. 12 34 56 7 8 Advanced Tuning Adjustments 1. Advance tuning has two modes in which to adjust. They are called mode 4 and mode 5. In basic tuning, you are changing the amount of fuel that the engine receives, but with advance tuning, you will be changing when the fuel will be available. In each mode you can adjust how soon the fuel delivery occurs. 2. Mode 4 yellow light and blue light represent when the fuel delivery is available during partial throttle acceleration. To adjust this setting, push the MODE button four times and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. Only the yellow light will be changing.

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Tuning the HSR42/ 45 Carburetor

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 31-10-2010

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your Mikuni HSR is fitted with the tuning parts we found to work with the great majority of engine performance modifications. However, the large number of differing exhaust systems and cams available makes it impossible to accommodate all possible combinations with one carburetor set-up. Your HSR will almost certainly run correctly on your engine without exchanging any parts. But, if it doesn’t, you may alter its tuning to suit your engine’s needs by following this guide. Some exhaust system designs strongly interfere with carburetor tuning. For instance, it is very difficult to get smooth and responsive carburetion through the entire rpm range with straight pipes and completely open exhausts. In addition, very small volume, small diameter mufflers are often ‘seen’ by the engine as straight pipes and present the same tuning difficulties. Very long duration cams often cause relatively poor running below about 3,000 rpm, depending upon the individual cam’s intake valve closing point. Such cams cause reverse airflow out the mouth of the carburetor (often called “reversion” or “standoff”) that can be mistaken for a carburetor tuning problem. Harley-Davidson Screamin’ Eagle performance parts are proven and predictable. If you have any doubts about a particular exhaust system, air cleaner or ignition, you may substitute the Harley Screamin’ Eagle parts as a “reality check.” When re-tuning is required, it usually involves small alterations to the idle and/or main system. The following pages supply enough information to make such alterations relatively simple. Please note that there is no point in attempting to tune any carburetor unless the engine is sound and in a good state of tune. If you have any doubts about the general condition of your engine, have it checked by your dealer or an experienced mechanic before attempting to fine-tune your Mikuni.

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2001-2010 Harley-Davidson TCFI III Fuel Injection System Installation And Tuning Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 06-04-2012

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1. Check the exhaust system. If you can insert a broomstick through the mufflers, you have the equivalent of open drag pipes and auto-tuning will fail. If applicable, read the section about exhaust considerations starting on page 11. 2. Check for updates. This tuning manual is for TCFI III units with revision 3.3 or higher firmware. Before proceeding, check our website at www.daytona- twintec.com for available updates for the TCFI firmware, accompanying PC based software, and documentation. 3. Tech support. If you have questions or encounter problems at any point during the installation process, please contact our tech support at 386- 304-0700. 4. USB interface. Read the USB interface instructions starting on page 17, install the USB drivers and configure the COM port. 5. PC Link software used for setup and engine tuning. Read the PC Link TCFI III instructions starting on page 19 and install the software. 6. Data logging software. Read the TCFI III Log instructions starting on page 34 and install the software. 7. TCFI Controller. Read the TCFI installation instructions starting on page 41 and install the TCFI unit. Make sure you install the green PC link jumper wire. 8. WEGO wide-band exhaust gas oxygen sensor interface. Read the WEGO installation instructions starting on page 42, install the WEGO unit and perform the free air calibration described on page 43. 9. Connect the USB interface cable between the TCFI unit and your PC. 10. Start the PC Link TCFI III software, use the Open File command, and open the appropriate setup file. Setup data files are provided in the program folder for typical engine applications. Refer to Table 3 on page 16 for details. Additional setup guidelines for aftermarket throttle bodies and larger displacement engines are given on page 9. 11. Use the Edit Basic Parameters command. Make any required changes such as estimated rear wheel horsepower, injector flow rating (refer to Table 1 on page 9), and RPM limit. You must set the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) frequency for your model. This affects speedometer/odometer scaling, idle RPM control, and turn signal

KAWASAKI TERYX EFI Installation And Removal Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 06-05-2012

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1. The Stage IV controller can be mounted in numerous places. Placement depends on personal preferences. Only mount in locations where no damage may occur from sharp or hot objects. 4. Start the UTV and in approximately four seconds the lights on the Stage IV controller will be visible. With a proper install, you should see lights going from side to side on the controller. This will last approximately eight seconds and then will stop. After lights have stopped going side to side, you will notice a great light on the left side of the controller. When you rev the motor, lights will increase across the controller and even change colors. 5. Double check all fasteners and connections. 7. The Stage IV controller has been programmed for ultimate performance when using Trinity Racing’s Stage IV exhaust system and Powerflow intake system on an otherwise stock engine. Different products, modifications, or other conditions may require additional adjustments. Please refer to Basic Tuning Adjustments and all final fuel adjustments are the customer’s responsibility. 8. You are now ready to ride! Enjoy your new Stage IV fuel management controller! Basic Tuning Adjustments 1. The following instructions are for basic fuel tuning. Modes 1,2, & 3 are allowing adjustments to increase and decrease the amount of fuel the engine needs. Modes 4 & 5 are for advanced tuning only. DO NOT change modes 4 & 5 when doing basic tuning! 2. To help understand how these modes work, you can think of them as if you were working with a carburetor. 3. Remember each time you push the MODE button you will be advancing to the next mode. Push the MODE button once and you are now in mode 1, push the MODE button again and you are now in mode 2 and so on. You only need to be concerned with modes 1, 2 & 3 for basic tuning. Modes 4 & 5 are for advanced tuning ONLY. 4. If you need to go back to the settings that were pre programmed when you purchased the controller, just look at the picture in each mode, the colored square represents where the settings were when you purchased the controller. 5. Looking at the controller you will see eight lights with numbers under them, this is what you need to look at when changing settings. The #1 light on the controller represents the leanest setting

2008 KAWASAKI KL650A8F: KLR 650 General And Tuning Engine Specifications

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 05-11-2010

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Engine Type 4-stroke, Inline, 1-cylinder, DOHC, Liquid cooled Displacement 651 cc Bore x Stroke 100.0 x 83.0 mm Compression Ratio 9.8:1 Maximum Torque 36.9 lb-ft at 5,500 rpm Carburetor Keihin CVK40, Constant velocity, Diaphragm-type Ignition System Magneto CDI (Rotor) Ignition Advance Electronic Crankshaft Rotation Clockwise from ignition (RH) side Cylinder Material Aluminum alloy with ferrous sleeves Fuel Min 91 Research/87 Avg. Oct. Unleaded OK Coolant 50% distilled water/50% ethylene glycol base antifreeze —Capacity 1.05 L (1.1 qt.) —Level Level with radiator filler neck. Transmission Clutch Type Wet, Multi-disc, Manual Transmission 5-speed, Constant mesh, Return shift Shift Pattern(Bottom up) 1-N-2-3-4-5 Gear Ratios —1st 2.27 (34/15) —2nd 1.44 (26/18) —3rd 1.14 (25/22) —4th 0.95 (21/22) —5th 0.79 (19/24) Primary Ratio 2.28 (75/33) Final Ratio 2.87 (43/15) Overall Ratio (Top Gear) 5.157 Chassis Wheelbase 1,480 mm (58.3 in.) Seat Height 890 mm (35.0 in.) Ground Clearance 210 mm (8.3 in.) Dry Weight 175 kg (386 lb.) Fuel Tank Capacity 22.1 L (5.8 gal.) Tire Size —Front 90/90-21 54S —Rear 130/80-17 65S Brake Type —Front Single Hydraulic Disc —Rear Single Hydraulic Disc Brake Size —Front 254 mm Effective Diameter —Rear 212 mm Effective Diameter Wheel Travel —Front 206 mm (7.9 in.) —Rear 185 mm (7.3 in.) Model Identification Year & Model ’08 KL650A8F:KLR 650 Color 1. Blue 21 (S8) 2. KMT. Candy Lime Green (175) 3. Sunbeam Red (H1) VIN Range JKAKLEE1 * 8DA00101 — Engine No. Range KL650AE007501— Engine No. Location RH top crankcase, below carburetor Tuning Specifications Engine Valve Clearance (Cold) Intake: 0.10-0.20 mm Exhaust: 0.15-0.25mm —Adjustment Method Shim on tappet Spark Plug NGK DPR8EA-9 or ND X24EPR-U9 —Gap 0.8-0.9 mm Ignition Timing 10.0° BTDC (“F” mark) at 1300 rpm 30.0° BTDC (In double marks) at 3300 rpm Pilot Screw Sealed—not adjustable Idle Speed 1300 ±100 rpm Engine Oil API SE, SF, or SG, API SH or SJ of JASO MA Class, 10w40 —w/Filter Change 2.5 L —No Filter Change 1.7 L —Level On center stand, wait 5 min, middle of window —Pressure (Hot) 2.0-2.5 kg/cm2 at 4,000 rpm, 90° C Chassis Fork Oil SAE 10W20 —Capacity 581 – 589 cc dry —Level 170 ±2 mm (fork compressed, spring removed) Fork Air Pressure (Cold) 0.0 kg/cm2 , max 2.5 kg/cm2 Tire Pressure (Cold) —Front 22 psi, change for course and rider preference —Rear 22 psi, change for course and rider preference Drive Chain Slack 35-45 mm (on center stand, tightest point, STD)

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Triumph SU CARBURETORS SERVICING AND TUNING

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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Jets: These are made in various sizes ranging from.099 inches to.1875 inches, the larger sizes being used only for racing or very high performance engines. The two sizes most commonly found on production cars are the.090 inch and the.100 inch. The size of the jet will be found stamped on the jet head. The figure “nine”wilt indicate that it is the.090 inch and the figure “one”will indicate the.100 inch jet. When tuninga production car the jets size should be checked to make sure that it is of the size recommended by the manufacturers. Centering of Jet: If for any reason, the jet assembly has been removed, it will be ne cessary to recenter the jet. First, remove the clevis pin at the base of the jet which attaches the jet head to the jet operating lever. Withdraw the jet completely and remove the adjusting nut and spring, then replace the adjusting nut, without its spring, and screw it up toits highest position. Slide the Set into position until the jet head is against the base of the adjusting nut. When this has been done, find out if the piston is perfectly free by lifting it up with the finger and allowing it to drop. If the piston is not entirely free, slacken the jet screw and manipulate the lower part of the assembly, including the projecting part of the bottom half of the jet bearing, adjusting nut, and jet head. Make sure that this assembly is now slightly loose. The piston should then rise and fall quite freely as the needle is now able to move the jet into the required central position. The jet screw should now be tightened and a further check made to determine that the piston is still quite free. When complete freedom of the piston is achieved the jet adjusting nut should be removed, together with the jet, and the spring replaced. Experience has shown that a large percentage of carburetors, which have given trouble has been due to the incorrect centering of jets. Jet Needles— These are made in a great variety of sizes, probably now well over two hundred and fifty, and each type of engine hasaneedlethat has been selected, after very careful tests have been carried out, to give the best all-round performance. Most manufacturers actually give three alternative needles for each type and size of engine, these needles clearly being listed by the manufacturer “Standard”, “Rich”or”Weak”and before tuning is started the needle, which is marked on the shank should be checked against the manufacturer’srecommendation to make quite sure that the right needle is fitted; this is most important.

MIKUNI VM CARBURETOR SUPER TUNING

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Filed Under (Mikuni) by admin on 31-10-2010

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This manual is intended as a guide for users of Mikuni carburetors who want to learn the adjusting method to the best performance from our products. In motorcycles, special tuning of the engine is now considereda routine practice. The arrows that appear in the drawings in this text show the direction in which air, fuel and an air-fuel mixture flows, respectively. ¢JAir Fuel “Mixture Mounting angle fore and aft inclination of the carb should not exceed approx Function of a carburetor The function of a carburetor is to produce combustible air-fuel mixture, by breaking fuel into tiny particles (in the form of vapor) and by mixing the fuel with air in a proper ratio, and to deliver the mixture to the engine. A proper ratio (mixture ratio or air-fuel ratio) means an ideal air-fuel mixture that can burn without leaving an excess of fuel or air, Whether the proper mixture ratio is maintained or not holds the key to the efficient engine operation, 2. Air-fuel mixture required by the engine (Fig. 1) The ratio of a mixture of fuel and air is called the mixture ratio or the air-fuel ratio and is generally expressed by the weight proportion. Theoretically, the amount of air required for complete combustion of 1 gram of fuel under normal conditions is

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Bajaj Removing And refitting Automatic Cam Chain Tensioner

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Filed Under (Bajaj) by admin on 31-10-2010

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1. Remove the 2 Flanged Bolts securing the Tensioner Assembly. 2. Remove Tensioner Assembly from the engine block. 3. Unscrew and remove Lock Bolt. 4. Remove Pushrod, Ball & Retainer, Spring and “O” ring. Clean parts thoroughly and apply grease to the Balls & Retainer. Re-assembly procedure : 1. Place Spring on Pushrod and compress the spring beyond the hole in the Pushrod. 2. Insert a pin or wire into the hole in the Pushrod to hold the Spring in its’ compressed position. 3. Place Balls & Retainer onto Pushrod. 4. Insert Pushrod into the Tensioner body with the small flat on the Pushrod facing, and aligned with, the Locking Bolt hole. 5. Insert the Locking Bolt and tighten it against the small flat on the Pushrod to lock the Pushrod in the compressed position. Remove the pin that’s holding the Spring compressed. 6. Install the Tensioner assembly onto the cylinder block and install and tighten both Flanged Bolts. Be sure that the “O” ring has been installed at the base of the flange. 7.Looosen the Lock Bolt to release the Pushrod, then re-tighten the lock bolt

MOUNTAIN BIKE AIR SHOCK SET-UP AND TUNING GUIDE

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 01-12-2010

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DETAILED SET-UP 2. Installing Air Pressure – Remove the air cap from the Schrader valve on the end of the shock body. Attach the pump to the Schrader valve. Some people damage their pumps by screwing them on too far. As soon as the gauge registers pressure, screw 1/2 turn more and pump to the desired level. Use the release button on the pump to reduce air pressure. The hiss you hear when unscrewing the pump is only the air from the pump and not from the shock! Likewise, when you install the pump again, you will also hear a hiss as air from the shock fills the pump and reduces the registered pressure you previously installed. All perfectly normal when pressurizing the shock! After removing the pump, be sure to reinstall the Schrader valve cap. If the shock does not dampen properly after pressurizing, the air pressure may have been lost during pump removal as a result of a worn pump fitting o-ring that needs replacement. Do not ride the bike until the shock is properly pressurized. 3. Main Air Spring Pressure Adjustments – Air Spring adjustments are made by inflating or deflating the main air spring chamber. Since your IFP air pressure adjustment (outlined above) also affects your starting spring force, you should always adjust your IFP pressure before adjusting the main air spring pressure. You can refer to the online Quick Start guide at: www.progressivesuspension.com/literature.html for accurate main air spring pressure and sag settings matched to your bike model and body

Triumph Bonneville Tuning Manual

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 20-11-2010

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1. The Float The float bowl acts as a fuel reservoir to meet engine demand. The float is hinged on a pin in the float boss. It rises and falls with the fuel level in the float bowl. The small metal tang integrated in the plastic float supports the float valve, also known as the float needle. As the fuel in the float bowl rises, the float valve is pushed into the valve seat, until it’s high enough to shut off the fuel flow to the bowl. As fuel is used the level in the bowl drops lowering the float which pulls the float valve from its seat, and fills again. Adjusting the height of the float has a big effect on the mixture as a low or high float level makes it harder or easier for the vacuum to suck fuel into the venturi. Differing float levels cause an imbalance which may be perceived as vibration. 2. The Choke This system is referred to as the choke. But that’s a misnomer. When you pull the choke knob, what you’re doing is retracting a plunger that opens a tube connected to the starter jet, allowing additional fuel to enter the venturi just below the vacuum hose nipple. It supplements the pilot system at start up. 3. The Pilot System The primary purpose of the pilot system is to supply the mixture at idle. It continues to supply fuel throughout the entire throttle range, but after about 1/8 throttle is reached the main system starts to put out more of the total mixture, up to full throttle. By adjusting the idle with the big screw on the left side of the carburettors the position of the butterfly is altered, so exposing one or more of the four small holes that are drilled into the venturi, (leading to the pilot jet) just under the butterfly valve, letting more or less air pass the butterfly. Adjusting the pilot screw that’s under the carburettor varies the amount of air premixing with the fuel before it enters the venturi. 4. The Main System Open the throttle and the cable that’s connected to the butterfly valve turns it from vertical to horizontal, so letting more air through the venturi. This increases the vacuum effect that is transferred up through the vacuum drilling in the slide to the diaphragm valve that leads to the diaphragm chamber. The top chamber is separated from the bottom by a rubber diaphragm. The bottom chamber is open to atmospheric pressure from the airbox. When the vacuum in the top chamber rises enough, the constant ambient pressure of the lower chamber helps the diaphragm valve overcome the downward force of the diaphragm spring, so it rises from the ven- turi. As the diaphragm is raised the needle is pulled out of the needle jet, exposing a thinner portion of the needle taper which allows more fuel to rise into the venturi to meet the increased engine demand. The key parts of the main system are shown in the photo below

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