2006 kawasaki prairie 360 shift adjustment

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Kawasaki Prairie 360,650,700 ATV PLOW Plow Mounting Kit INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Mount Installation Note: There are different hole locations on the plow mount depending on the bike model. For Prairie 360 use the middle hole locations (B), for Prairie 650 and Twin Peaks 700 use hole locations (A) on mounting plate, as shown in Figure 1. Figure 1 Hole Locations WARN INDUSTRIES PAGE 3 67954 Rev A3 To install the plow mount to the underside of the vehicle install the front two U-bolts PN 60869, and loosely tighten the 5/16″ nuts. Pull the plow mount back in the furthest position and then fully tighten, as shown in Figure 2. For the Kawasaki Prairie 360 use the second set of U-bolts PN 61262 and securely tighten around the frame in hole location (B) . For Kawasaki Prairie 650 and Suzuki Twin Peaks 700 drill a 3/8″ hole through the aluminum skid plate, using the plow mount as a template, as shown in Figure 3. Repeat the same process on the other side. After both holes are drilled attach the mounting plate with the second set of U-bolts PN 61262 and securely tighten around the frame in hole location (A) . Tighten all fasteners securely. Torque 5/16″ Bolts: 20ft. lb.

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Yamaha Road Star Forward Control Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 08-11-2010

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Before starting to assemble this forward kit on your motorcycle check the packing list to make sure that the kit you received is the correct one for your model motorcycle and that the foot pegs are the style you ordered (billet or ISO). Next check the contents hardware kit P.N.0109-1000 against the packing list for completeness. Installing The Shift Control Photo 1 Remove wires from horn. Remove the two hex head bolts (Save for later installation) that mount the OEM shift controls to your motorcycle. Unthread stock shift rod at trans shift arm, leaving OEM rod end connected to stock shift arm. Using Original Metric hardware, place a drop of Loctite #242 (blue) to the bolt threads and mount the shift control plate to the motorcycle frame, Photo 2. FORWARD CONTROL KIT PM SHIFT CONTROL ASSEMBLY Note Before torquing the shift control mounting bolts down, tighten them snug and look behind the shift control mounting plate to where it contacts the mounting lug on the frame. Make sure it fits squarely to the lug before proceeding further. Torque the two shift control mounting bolts down to 25 ft-lb. Using a 3/8″ x 1″ hex head bolt with a lock and flat washer put a drop of Loctite #242 (blue) on the threads and insert the bolt through the rear of the control mounting plate and attach the foot-peg pivot to it. Tighten the bolt while holding the footpeg pivot so that its hinge is lined up in a 45˚ rear facing angle. Thread supplied shift rod coupler to stock shift rod end at trans arm. Mount the shift pedal to the other end of the shift ro d using a 5/16″ x 1″ socket head screw and Nylocnut . Adjust the transmission shift linkage so that the shift arm on the forward controls and the shift arm on the transmission are parallel. Secure it with the jam nuts. Apply a drop of Loctite #242 (blue) to the threads under the jam nut before tightening see Photo 3 After you have assembled the shift control onto your motorcycle you must align the footpeg. The folding footpeg assembly uses a blind stud to attach the footpeg to the footpeg pivot. Shim washers (3/8″ x .015″) are used on the stud between the footpeg and the pivot, see Photo 4, so that the top surface of the footpeg is correctly aligned for your foot when it is tightened down on the pivot. This is done by setting a couple of shim washers on the footpeg mounting stud “A” and then screwing the footpeg onto the mounting stud, if the footpeg is rotated to far forward then add another shim washer, if not far enough then remove a shim washer. After you have the selected the correct number of shims for your footpeg, disassemble the footpeg and put a drop of Loctite #271 (red) on both ends of the stud and reassemble the footpeg. This will also need to be done on the brake control footpeg. Setting Up the Master Cylinder The master cylinder pushrod return spring and pushrod boot must be installed on the master cylinder before it is assembled onto the forward control mount. The parts are shown in Photo 5: pushrod boot (A), pushrod return spring (B), spring seat washer (C), and master cylinder (D). Place the return spring seat washer into bore of master cylinder so that is sits on top of the piston retaining snap ring. Next set the pushrod return spring on the seat washer and slide the pushrod boot over the return spring now slip the big end of the boot over the flange on the master cylinder so that the ridge on the inside of the boot fits into groove “A” that is machined into the end of the master cylinder flange, see Photo 6. Installing The Brake Control Unplug stock brake light switch at master cylinder. Remove brake line from rear caliper. Remove the existing brake controls from your motorcycle down to the control mounting lug that is welded on to the frame’s right side, see Photo 8. Save Metric hardware for later use. A Shim Washer PHOTO 4 A B C D PHOTO 5 A PHOTO 6 PHOTO 7 Note For complete brake system removal instructions and precau – tions refer to the appropriate service manual for your year and model motorcycle

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Kawasaki 650/360 Prairie Lift Kit Installation and removal Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1) Place jack under center of ATV front end and lift until front wheels clear the ground. Be careful to support ATV properly so that it is securely supported but so that A-arms and shocks can droop to full extension. 2) Remove front wheels. 3) Remove or loosen front plastic. 4) Remove C-clip and nut at the top of the strut. 5) Screw bracket “A” on top of strut to the same torque specifications as the nut. 6) Place the top adapter “A” through the top of the strut mount, and screw the original nut on the top of bracket “A” securing it to the strut mount. Tighten this nut to the required manufacturer specifications and replace the factory C-clip. 7) Repeat the procedure for the other side. 8) Install the wheels, torque wheel lug nuts to manufacturer’s specifications, lower and remove jack. Check for clearance problems or misalignment. Rear Lift 1) Place jack under ATV at the rear of the bottom skid plate and lift until the weight is off of the suspension. Be careful to secure the ATV properly so as not to fall off the jack. 2) Remove the bottom of the shock from the shock mount on the axle. 3) After removing the shock, jack the ATV up 1″-2″ further. 4) Place Bracket “B” between the shock and shock mount with the notched out ends facing downward. Insert stock bolt to secure bracket “B” to the shock mount and the shock. Fasten nut. 5) Insert the new 12x75mm Bolt to the top of bracket “B” and the shock eyelet and secure with a new 12mm nut. 6) Tighten all nuts and bolts to manufacturer’s torque specifications. 7) Install the wheels, torque wheel lug nuts to manufacturer’s specifications, lower and remove jack. Check for clearance problems or misalignment.

2007 Ural Models Gear Up Patrol Tourist Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Ural) by admin on 02-11-2010

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Font Brake Control Lever Clutch control lever: When the clutch lever is squeezed, the engine is disengaged from the gearbox. When the lever is released, the engine and gearbox are engaged. WARNING: MAKE SURE FINGERS ARE NOT POSITIONED BETWEEN HAND CONTROL LEVERS AND HANDLEBAR GRIPS OR OPERATION OF VEHICLE COULD BE IMPAIRED . WARNING: B EFORE STARTING ENGINE , ALWAYS SHIFT TRANSMISSION TO NEUTRAL TO PREVENT ACCIDENTAL MOVEMENT WHICH COULD CAUSE POSSIBLE DAMAGE TO MOTORCYCLE AND PERSONAL INJURY . Caution: Always engage the clutch release lever when shifting. Serious internal damage may result to the transmission if the clutch release lever is not engaged. Front brake control lever: When the lever is squeezed, the front wheel brake is actuated. The front brake should be used together with rear brake. When the brake lever is squeezed, the stop signal lights are switched on. 19 Kickstart lever : Designed to start the engine. Upon kicking the lever the crankshaft is actuated through the gearbox. The lever is returned to its initial position by the spring inside the gearbox. Gear shift lever: This is a heal shift type of lever. To shift up from a low gear to a high gear the rear arm(heal shift) is pressed. To shift down from a high gear to a low gear the from arm is depressed. Since the heel-toe shift lever is short-coupled, it is much easier to shift up using the heal shift, and to shift down using the toe shift with the ball of your foot. The neutral gear is between the 1st and 2nd gears. It is important to shift smoothly with a constant force, and not to kick the gear shift pedal. Serious damage may result to the shifting mechanism if the gear shift pedal is kicked, rather than pressed. NOTE: The neutral lamp will illuminate when the transmission is in neutral. (see “Starting the Engine”). Gear Shift Foot Pedal Kick Lever 20 Parking Brake Sidecar Drive Lever Rear Brake Pedal Parking Brake: Used to hold the bike when parked. To engage, press the rear brake pedal, push down and twist the parking brake lever counter clockwise. Sidecar drive engagement lever: Used to engage the drive axle to the sidecar wheel on the Patrol and Gear Up model motorcycles. WARNING: Never engage sidecar drive on concrete or hard surface. Severe damage to drivetrain will result if the sidecar drive is engaged on pavement. Rear brake lever: Actuates the rear brakes on both the motorcycle and sidecar. WARNING: DO NOT APPLY EITHER BRAKE STRONGLY ENOUGH TO LOCK THE WHEELS BECAUSE THIS MAY CAUSE POSSIBLE LOSS OF CONTROL OF THE MOTORCYCLE . ALWAYS USE BOTH BRAKES . NEVER STOP WITH FRONT OR REAR BRAKE ONLY . WARNING: AN IMPROPERLY ADJUSTED REAR BRAKE PEDAL COULD INTERFERE WITH PROPER REAR BRAKE OPERATION RESULTING IN POOR BRAKE ACTION

HARLEY DAVIDSON HEEL/TOE SHIFT LEVER KITS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 18-03-2011

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INSTALLATION NOTE The shift levers in these kits have opposite counterbored screw holes. When the toe and heel levers are positioned correctly, the socket head cap screws will be installed from the bottom of both levers. 1. Before removing the original shift levers, note the orientation. You may want to replace them at the same position and angle. NOTE The original equipment shift levers may have the socket head screws that secure the shift levers to the splined shifter shaft installed from the top or bottom, depending on your model motorcycle. 2. See Figure 1. Remove the original equipment shifter pegs (A) and retain for re-attachment to the new levers if desired. Remove the socket head screws (3) that clamp the shift levers onto the splined shifter shaft. Remove the original equipment shift levers. 3. First, position the toe shifter lever (1) so the counterbored screw hole is at the bottom. Slide the toe shifter lever onto the splined shifter shaft and position to the desired angle, aligning the screw hole with the notch on the shaft. 4. Install the heel shift lever (2) with the counterbore at the bottom. 5. Add a few drops of Loctite® 243 (blue) to the socket head screws (3), and insert the screws into the counterbored holes. Tighten to 24-26 ft-lbs (32-35 Nm) . 6. Install the shifter pegs onto the new shift levers. If using the original pegs, place a few drops of Loctite blue onto the screw threads prior to installation. Tighten the shifter peg screws. 7. Check for proper operation and clearance

2007 Ural Retro Model Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Ural) by admin on 02-11-2010

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Kickstart lever : Designed to start the engine. Upon kicking the lever the crankshaft is actuated through the gearbox. The lever is returned to its initial position by the spring inside the gearbox. Gear shift lever: This is a heal shift type of lever. To shift up from a low gear to a high gear the rear arm(heal shift) is pressed. To shift down from a high gear to a low gear the from arm is depressed. Since the heel-toe shift lever is short-coupled, it is much easier to shift up using the heal shift, and to shift down using the toe shift with the ball of your foot. The neutral gear is between the 1st and 2nd gears. It is important to shift smoothly with a constant force, and not to kick the gear shift pedal. Serious damage may result to the shifting mechanism if the gear shift pedal is kicked, rather than pressed urn indicator lamp indicates that the turn signals are activated. Alternator fault indicator lamp , indicates that the charging system is malfunctioning and needs immediate attention. Gearbox neutral lamp indicates that the gearbox is in neutral. Head lamp high beam indicator , indicates that the headlight high beam is activated. Speedometer is on the dash board, with trip and total odometer. The trip odometer is reset to zero by rotating knob (Fig.1, # 3) counterclockwise. Note that the odometer reads in kilometers

Kawasaki Exhausts – ZX-6 ZX-10 Zx-14 Exhaust – Slip-ons INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Our favorite exhaust options for Kawasaki ZX Ninjas – ZX-10,ZX-6r, and the new horsepower king, Zx-14.. Grab your horsepower today. We love Rob Muzzy and Muzzy Exhausts.Going back to Doug Chandler and Scott Russell, Muzzy has been synonomous with Kawasaki and performance – and for years, if you rode Kawasaki,and you were on the podium, Muzzy was on your exhaust. We also feature Arrow and Yoshimura exhausts for your ZX-6R, ZX-10 and ZX-14. We love the sound of a Yosh exhaust on any Kawasaki Ninja. Yoshimura Oval (RS-3) Race Slip-On for Kawasaki ZX14R 2006 The easiest and least expensive way to experience Yoshimura performance is with our Slip-On/Bolt-On lines. Bolt-On style bolts to the O. E. M. mid-pipe Slip-On style with its stainless steel easily attaches to the mid-pipe RS-1 is available where noted Usually, no jetting or re-programming is required and installation is a snap Hindle Stainless Exhaust High Head Pipes – Kawasaki ZX6R-RR 03-04 The worlds lightest stainless steel exhaust system. Increase horsepower and torque throughout the entire rpm range. Lightweight, strong stainless steel header design looks great and weighs less than stock headers. Available in low- and high-mo North Denver News http://northdenvernews.com Powered by Joomla! Generated: 19 October, 2010, 12:28 Hindle Stainless Exhaust Low Head Pipes – Kawasaki ZX9R 00-03 The worlds lightest stainless steel exhaust system. Increase horsepower and torque throughout the entire rpm range. Lightweight, strong stainless steel header design looks great and weighs less than stock headers. Available in low- and high-mo

Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Upgrading the Suspension on the Kawasaki ER6-F/ N

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 30-11-2010

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Top fork is as removed. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Before removing the fork from the clamps on the yokes I loosened the fork top. Before removing the fork top the fork-slider was placed in a vice and the bottom bolt loosened….. … before finally being removed with the fork upside down. Because the springs were still in situ this gave sufficient tension on the damper-rod to prevent it from turning and allow the bolt to be removed. When I turned the fork the right-way up to remove the fork-top I did it over a container to catch the oil. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource All the OE components that will no longer be required. Left to right. Fork-top, spacer tube, washer, spring, damper-rod. Bottom bolts get re-used. Old and new, laid-out for comparison. The damper unit, minus spring and fork-top, drops inside the stanchion and slider. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Then the bolt goes back in, as tight as possible, to secure it. Top fork is done, second one awaits. Note the spring seat on the right, just below the spring. This drops over the damping rod after the oil has been added. The small locking-nut screws over the threaded part of the damping-rod next, all the way to the bottom. Spring drops in and then the fork-top screws on to the damping-rod as well, all the way down to the lock-nut which is used to secure it. At this point the stanchion is extended to the fork-top which is screwed in. Job done.

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HONDA GL1800 DRIVER BOARDS WITH HEEL/ TOE SHIFT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Place the motorcycle on its centerstand. Remove the stock foot pegs and mounts (four 6mm wrench size allen screws) 2. Beginning on the left or shift side remove the rubber cover from the shift pedal. (Some WD-40 or armor all will make it much easier). Using a hacksaw cut the retaining knob off the end of the shift pedal as shown in photo #1A. Don’t worry should you ever remove the floorboards you can replace the rubber and glue it in place. 3. Install the left floorboard assembly being sure the fork in the toe-heel shifter goes over the shift pedal. Install the two original bolts and snug them. 4. Locate the black plastic shift bushing (see photo #2A) notice the set screw on the side of the bushing slide the bushing onto the shift pedal with the small diameter going on first and engaging the fork on the toe-heel shifter. The shoulder of the bushing should be touching but not putting a side force on the fork. Rotate the bushing so that the set screw is at 9 o’clock tighten the set screw. Locate the rubber cap provided and install it over the end of the stock shift pedal. (See photo #2B). 5. Next rock or pivot the floorboard assembly up and down noting the play between the bolts and bolt holes. Position the floorboard half way between these two extremes then tighten the bolts securely. Check for clearance between the bottom of the toe shifter and the floorboard (min. 1/8″) by pushing the toe shifter down until it stops while rotating the rear wheel (see photo 2C). If there is not sufficient clearance loosen the two mounting screws and pivot the floorboard to obtain the1/8″ clearance and retighten the screws. If installing the heel shifter into one of the two optional forward mounting holes check for the 1/8″ clearance while rotating the rear wheel and up shifting. 6. On the right side remove the 12mm brake pedal mounting bolt, notice the punch mark on the pedal shaft that aligns with the slot in the pedal. The pedal MUST be re-installed in the same position. Pull the pedal outward and off the shaft. 7. See photo (3). On the bottom side of the footpad make a mark ¾” from the rear and outside edge as shown. Drill a ¼” hole thru the pedal at the mark. See photo (4) lay the brake pedal extension upside down on a bench and place the stock pedal into the opening as shown, while holding the two pieces firmly together and using the hole drilled earlier as a guide drill a ¼” hole thru the bottom of the pedal extension. Turn the two pieces over, using a needle nose pliers insert the ¼” bolt provided from the top down thru both pieces, install the lock nut provided and tighten securely. Carefully align the punch mark with the slot on the pedal and re-install the brake pedal (should the shaft slide inward you will need to remove the chrome side cover and hold the shaft outward using your finger as shown in photo (5A). Install the original 12mm bolt and tighten securely

MPS Electronic Engine Kill Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 27-10-2010

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blue wire should be connected to the normally open pole of the shift button. The Shift Button is a momentary type switch. The common pole of the shift button should be connected to a good ground and the normally open connects to the blue wire from the Electronic Engine Kill box. Electric Air Valve – The Electric Air Valve has two wires. These wires are interchangeable. One needs an ignition switched 12 volt power source. The other needs a ground signal when the shift button is depressed. The easiest way to do this is to locate the red and blue wires in the Electronic Engine Kill wire harness. Splice one Electric Air Valve wire into the red wire and splice the other Electric Air Valve wire into the blue. Once again soldering is the preferred method but you can use schotchlok splices. Setting Kill Time – Kill time is the amount of time the engine stays dead between gears during a shift. Generally the shorter the kill time the quicker the shift. The proper kill time will vary from bike to bike. Its generally better to start with to much kill time and work your way quicker. We generally start at around 75 ms. of kill time. The Kill Time is adjusted via a small potentiometer accessed through the grommet on the front of the unit. Using a small screwdriver Carefully turn the pot clockwise to the end of its travel. This is 100 ms of kill time. Now, carefully turn the pot screw counterclockwise to the end of its travel. This is 50 ms of kill time. Halfway in between is 75 ms. The pot only goes from 7 oclock to 5 oclock so don’t force it, they break easily! Testing The System – With no air in the system start the bike. Bring the rpm up to around 3000 rpm and push the shift button. You should hear a slight hesitation in the engine each time you depress the shift button. Once you establish that you have a engine kill when pushing the shift button remove the clevis pin from the shift cylinder and extend the shaft to the end of its travel. Air up the shifter to 120 psi. We also have onboard compressor kits available to conveniently fill the air tank on the fly or high pressure CO2 systems that can shift hundreds of times without refilling. With the engine off and the key on push the shift button

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