1999 roadking triple tree removal

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Ktm 950 SMR Installation and Removal Manual

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 27-01-2012

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Be sure the triple clamp in your kit has a part # 3012R- 27 -6-0208 on the bottom side. This is very important. 2. Warning: Once the triple clamp is loose, the forks can roll away from the bike . Block it up properly to start with. 3. Block the front tire securely before removing the top triple clamp, so the tire cannot move forward. It’s best to tie the forks up to something above you, like the rafters, using tie downs, or a tie down from the front axle up and over the frame backbone and then underneath the lower triple clamp. Once the forks start to come off while working, it’s extremely difficult to get them back together without help. Block the back wheel up also, so it puts pressure on the front end, forcing it to stay in position. Spend the time setting this up correctly and your installation will go easier. 4. This kit requires removal of the headless “Security” bolts that hold the key switch in place. These bolts will need to be drilled out in order to remove them, pictures below. Removal is fairly easy, if you follow these instructions. 5. Examine all the wire and cable routing before removal and make notes of where everything goes. 6. Remove 2 bolts that hold the headlight shroud in place. Be careful not to lose the small bushings that fall out easily. 7. Follow the wire from the ignition switch to the wire loom in the headlight shroud and unplug it. There is no locking tab on this plug so you can usually undo it without having to disassemble the wiring. 8. Remove the 4 bolts that hold your bars tight and lay the bars forward out of the way (Bungie or tie to the front of bike). 9. Be sure the front end is securely blocked or tied to something above the bike. Remove the top triple clamp, taking note of how tight the 27mm main nut is, so you can re-tighten to the exact tension for the bearing. The main nut merely provides the correct tension on the head tube bearing, so the tension is critical. The nut will NOT be tight coming off. Once the fork and triple clamp pinch bolts are loose, the main nut can be removed. It’s difficult to get a wrench on the main nut. We were able to sneak the stock KTM axle wrench in there, otherwise, you may have to loosen the lower bar perches using an 8mm Allen wrench and a 17mm socket for the underside nuts. Once the main nut is off, lift the triple clamp off carefully , trying not to disturb the blocked-front-wheel. A rubber mallot is helpful here

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Daytona 675, Street Triple Street Triple R Fitting Instruction

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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remove the original gear selector rod from the motorcycle. Note: The ball joint and locknut on the transmission linkage have a left hand thread. This is identified by either a machined ring on the gear selector rod on Daytona 675 or on the ball joint on Street Triple and Street Triple R. 1. Front ball joint 2. Locknut 3. Gear selector rod 4. Machined ring, left hand thread identification 5. Machined ring, left hand thread identification (StreetTriple and Street Triple R) 6. Remove the front and rear ball joints and front locknut only from the gear selector rod. Retain the locknut and both ball joints for re-use. Retain the gear selector rod if the motorcycle is to be returned to its original condition. 7. Remove the plastic end caps from the quickshifter assembly. 8. Screw the locknut on to the rear of the quickshifter assembly (right hand thread) leaving 8mm of thread exposed. 1. Quick shifter assembly 2. Locknut 9. Screw the rear ball joint (right hand thread) on to the rear of the quickshifter assembly until it contacts the locknut. Unscrew the ball joint, only enough to achieve the correct orientation in relation to the quickshifter cable, as shown below. Finger tighten the locknut at this stage. 1. Ball joint 2. Quickshifter assembly 3. Locknut 4. Quickshifter cable 10. Fit the locknut and front ball joint (left hand thread) to the front of the quickshifter assembly Screw the locknut and ball joint on to the quickshifter assembly to achieve a dimension between the ball joint ends of 203.5 mm. Ensure that the ball joint is in the correct orientation to the quickshifter cable, as shown below. Finger tighten the locknut at this stage. 1. Ball joint 2. Quickshifter assembly 3. Locknut 4. Quickshifter cable 12. Route the quickshifter cable through the gear selector rod aperture in the frame, as shown. 1. Quickshifter cable 2. Gear selector rod aperture 13. Locate the quickshifter assembly in position, through the frame with the sensor at the rear and the cable at the top. 1. Quick shifter assembly 2. Sensor 14. Attach the front ball joint to the transmission linkage. 1. Ball joint 2. Transmission linkage

HARLEY DAVIDSON CHROME DYNA TRIPLE TREE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 06-02-2011

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INSTALLATION NOTE The components in this kit install exactly as the OE (Original Equipment). 1. Refer to the applicable Service Manual for steering head removal procedures. 2. Refer to the applicable Service Manual for steering head installation procedures. SERVICE PARTS 1 5 4 3 2 is05169 Figure 1. Service Parts: Dyna Chrome Steering Head -J02511 1 of 2 Table 1. Service Parts Table Part Number Description (Quantity) Item 48365-48A Steering head bearing dirt guard 1 4307 Socket head cap screw 0.38-16 x 1.5 in. 2 4306 Socket button head cap screw 0.38-16 x 1.5 in. 3 46183-99 Bracket, upper fork, chrome 4 45503-02 Lower triple clamp assembly, chrome 5 45611-86 Retaining ring (not shown) 6

Ktm 690 SM/ SMC/ SMR/ Duke Removal and Installation weld slag

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 04-03-2012

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1. Each bike varies with regard to welds and gussets. Review the photos first to get the idea of what needs to be done. 2. These photos may not be your exact model but depict the concept of what must be done. 3. Block the front tire securely before removing the top triple clamp so the tire cannot move at all. See photos. 4. Support the rear tire also, just enough to keep tension on the front tire so the forks stay tight. 5. Warning: Once the triple clamp is loose, the forks can roll away from the bike AND it happens very quickly . 6. The main triple clamp nut adjusts the tension on the steering head bearings. Make note of its tension before removing and do not over tighten the nut. It should be seated just enough to take the play out of the bearing.. 7. The top of the gauge/light cluster is mounted to the top triple clamp. You have to take out 4 self tapping Phillips head screws to remove the gauge pod. There is one connector on the back side of that and then it comes off. Then there are two bolts that need to come out with an 8mm wrench to free the top triple clamp. 8. Loosen the triple clamp pinch bolt under the main nut and forks pinch bolts and remove the top triple clamp, taking note of how tight the main nut is, so you can re-tighten it to the exact amount. Remove the tin bearing shroud (cover) and rubber seal making note of how the seal goes on, (lips face downward). 9. Grease your bearings while you have them exposed. (Keep the grease off the area where our frame bracket mounts!). 10. The goal is to allow the frame bracket to clamp cleanly and squarely around the upper half of the head tube. 11. Review your individual bike’s welding characteristics at the head tube. You’ll notice on the head tube there is a “groove” machined 360 degrees around the head tube. Everything in or above this groove must be clean of welds or slag. If this groove is visible all the way around and no welding slag has extended upward into or past this groove, then you’re installation should be easy. Any welds extending into or above this groove must be filed away, but without changing the clamping area diameter. DO NOT file away the paint on the clamping area if possible. Spend a little more time filing carefully and your bracket will stay tight. 12. Each bike seems to have not only different welds, but slightly different gussets. Evaluate your individual bike to determine the best fit. The bracket must clamp squarely and cleanly to the area just above that groove and yet SIT FLUSH all the way around the diameter of the head tube as per the photo in the lower right corner. Do not allow the bracket to protrude above the seal seating surface. Use a flashlight to see up under the bracket where it’s hitting if it’s not Flush. This bracket has clearance cut into it to clear the backbone of the frame

Ktm 625/ 640/ 660 LC4's and some 640 Adventures Removal and Installation Manual

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 24-01-2012

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1. There are 3 pages of instructions here. Review all 3 first! These model bikes normally require modifications. 2. Warning: Once the triple clamp is loose, the forks can roll away from the bike . Follow step 2 carefully. 3. Block the front and rear tire securely before removing the top triple clamp, keeping the weight pushed on the front wheel so the front tire cannot move forward and the forks are forced upward, keeping the bearing in the head tube. 4. Remove the 4 bolts holding your bars tight and lay the bars forward out of the way. 5. Using Loc-tite, change the lower nuts on the under side of your triple clamp that hold your bar perches. Use the “low profile” version that we have supplied in the kit. You will need access to the Allen head bolts in the lower perch halves. Without these low profile nuts the triple clamp will not be free to turn lock to lock. There are occasions where you may have to grind on the frame bracket to allow a little extra clearance for even the low profile nuts (see photo). Because the bars are rubber mounted, this clearance varies from bike to bike. Turn the triple clamp lock to lock and be sure you have clearance. You must change them now, as later you won’t have room to do so. 6. Now remove the top triple clamp taking note of how tight the main nut is, so you can re-tighten to the exact amount. 7. Remove the tin bearing shroud (cover) and rubber seal. The lips of the seal face downward for correct installation. 8. The new shorter bearing shroud will replace the stock tin shroud, giving the frame bracket more room to seat. 9. Grease your bearings while you have them exposed. (Keep the grease off the area where our frame bracket mounts). 10. Only if your model is equipped with one, you will need to cut off the upper portion of the square steering lock receiver box (see photo). The steering lock stays functional as the lock-pin still engages the lower the portion of the box. Mark and cut the top of the box off. You must cut enough to allow our frame bracket to drop down far enough so the entire bracket grabs the head tube. If you don’t allow the frame bracket enough clamping surface it will come loose. The upper edge of the frame bracket should be level with the step where your stock bearing seal seats. (See photo). 11. Install the frame bracket so it matches the clamping area on your head tube, but do not tighten it yet. Do not remove the paint on the frame where the frame bracket fits. The paint is calculated as part of the correct dimension. On most LC4′s you will need to grind the weld at the back of the head tube, so the bracket can drop all the way down flush. Each bike is a little different; some require a lot of grinding and some very little. Try to remove the weld while retaining the original diameter of the head tube where our bracket will clamp. It is essential for the frame bracket to clamp to a symmetrical, round head tube. When you’ve removed the majority of weld the finished removal should be done with a file for precision clearance, without touching the area where the clamp will seat

Kawasaki ZX-14 Installation And Removal Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 29-04-2012

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1) Tools needed: 36mm socket / 32mm socket / 5mm Allen wrench / cordless drill / tap handle / hammer / razor blade. 2) The frame bracket serves as the drilling guide and we provide the transfer punch, tap, drill and step by step instructions for a relatively easy installation. However, do not attempt this installation unless you are skilled enough and confident that you can drill and tap (2) holes in your frame. We’ve also provided a picture of what it will look like should you decide to sell this bike later on, with your stabilizer removed. Follow these guidelines and you’ll find it’s quite easy. 3) Some photos may not be your exact bike but depict the idea of what needs to be done. 4) It is important to use Blue Loc-tite on all fasteners if you expect them to stay tight. 5) Cover the gas tank area with something substantial to protect the paint, in case of a slip. An old sweatshirt works well. It’s cheap insurance to actually just remove the tank shroud to avoid an accident. 6) Remove the stock 36mm nut AND washer , that holds the top triple clamp tight. Make a note of how tight it is. 7) Install the new “triple clamp damper mount” (TC mount) over the steering stem allowing it to match the exact shape of the triple clamp, with the “machined register” (lip) indexing over the back of the triple clamp. (See photo). 8) Install the new 32mm aluminum nut supplied in the kit (without any washer) with the Hex drive facing up and torque to 65ft. lbs. or more. (Check your manual for the recommended torque setting of this nut). 9) There is a slight amount of play in the “register” that fits over the back of the triple clamp to allow for variations in castings from the factory. If the TC mount tries to spin clockwise during tightening, which can misalign the stabilizer ever so slightly, you can slide something thin, like the edge of a razor blade, between the register and the back of the triple clamp to space it “just right” for alignment during tightening (see photo). Once it’s tight the razor blade will be stuck, so gently turn the 32mm socket as though you were going to loosen the nut but don’t actually loosen it. It will relieve enough pressure to allow the razor blade to come out. Double check your alignment again. 10) Remove the front tank mounting Allen bolt. Retain the stock washer that’s part of the rubber grommet. 11) Temporarily install the frame bracket and be sure the outer feet are touching or are very close to the frame. On rare occasions, the casting on the head tube prevents the feet from making contact. On these rare occasions you may have to slightly file the inner side of those feet until the bracket sits down flush. Not sure on this one? Call us. (note: 2007-on bikes have a larger casting area and early kits will not fit these late model bikes. All current kits now fit 2006-on)

YAMAHA V-Star 1100 Carburetor Bowl Screw Repair and Removal After Stripping and Pilot Cap Removal

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 19-01-2012

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When I first started working on bike many years ago, I learned the danger of stripping the heads of Philips screws when removing or installing them on motorcycles. I remember the two worst screws were the casing side-cover aluminum screws and carburetor bowl screws. I think I tried every method of screw removal after they were stripped. Vice grips, better tipped screwdriver, hammer, drill, and other tools were used. One way I learned to remove stripped screws is to re-make the Philips head into a flathead screw. Cutting a slot in the top of the screw and then use a flat-head screwdriver to remove the screw. On some parts this technique can work, other parts and screws it may not. The Philips screws on the bottom of the V-Star carburetor bowls are VERY prone to stripping. In fact, I will not start a carburetor cleaning without new hex head screws to replace the original Philips bowl screws. Replace the bowl screws for yourself if you keep the bike, or for the next rider that will appreciate the hex-head screws when they clean the carburetors. Not many other parts on a V-Star have screws that are prone to stripping. This documentation is to help riders with motorcycle maintenance. Some riders will find themselves with the problem of removing stripped screws. A carburetor cleaning can quickly double in time when you realize the hardest part of the job is removing bowl screws after they strip. And then realizing you do not have the replacement hex-head screws available and must now go to the hardware store.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON GLOSS BLACK TRIPLE TREE COVER KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 07-02-2011

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INSTALLATION 1. Refer to the service manual to remove the front panel, side panels and trim strips. Save all hardware to install the new panels from the kit and trim strips. 2. See Figure 1 and Table 1. Install new panels from the kit and trim strips (D). 3. Tighten screw (A), three places, to 20-30 in-lbs (2.26-3.39 Nm) Tighten screw (B), two places, to 12-17 ft-lbs (16.3-23.0 Nm) Tighten screw (C), four places, to 8-12 ft-lbs (10.8-16.3 Nm) . If installing on a motorcycle with a light bar or windshield, refer to the appropriate service manual or instruction sheet for torque values.

HARLEY DAVIDSON LOWER FORK BRACKET (TRIPLE TREE) COVER KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 13-03-2011

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Installation 1. For models equipped with air baffle: See Figure 1. Remove and discard the two hex screws (2) and flat washers (3) holding the baffle (1) to the fork stem and bracket assembly(4). Retain the baffle for later reassembly. For models not equipped with air baffle: Remove and discard the two plugs from the rear of the fork stem and bracket assembly (4). 2. Remove and discard the hex socket head screw (6) holding the brake line manifold (5) to the underside of the fork stem and bracket assembly. 3. Place the lower fork bracket cover into position covering the brake line manifold. Attach the cover (and the baffle, if so equipped) to the fork stem and bracket assembly with the two 1/4″ self-tapping hex screws from the kit. Tighten securely. 4. Install the 5/16″ self-tapping hex socket screw through the cover and brake line manifold into the stem and bracket assembly. Torque to 10-15 ft-lbs (13.6-20.3 Nm). 5. Verify that the throttle and clutch cables are routed properly and do not interfere with steering the vehicle. After disturbing the brake system, BEFORE moving motorcycle, you must pump brake fluid until the pistons push the pads against the brake disc. If you don’t pump fluid pressure up again, the brake will not be available to stop the motorcycle which could result in death or serious injury. After disturbing the brake system, always test motorcycle brakes at low speed. If brakes are not operating properly, or braking efficiency is poor, testing at high speeds could result in death or serious injury

HARLEY-DAVIDSON 5 Speed Transmissions 1984 – 1999 EVO / 5 Speed & 1999 – 2006 Twin Cam Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 26-11-2010

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Remove Original Parts From Vehicle. 2.1 Obtain a small tube of Loctite® #262 (red) for use later. 2.2 Drain the transmission oil. 2.3 Remove the clutch adjustment cover (left side). 2.4 Remove rear exhaust header pipe (cross over exhaust pipe). 2.5 Remove the muffler support bracket. 2.6 Remove the clutch release cover (right side). 2.7 Remove clutch push rod and oil slinger. To be disassembled and modified later. 2.8 Remove the two nuts from the main (rear) and counter (front) transmission shafts. 2.9 Remove the transmission bearing housing (puller available from Champion Sidecars). To be replaced with new reverse gear transmission bearing housing (Trap Door). 2.10 Cover the exposed gears in the transmission with a cloth in preparation to cut the shifter fork shaft. 3 Install New Main and Countershaft Gears NOTE: Gears and Tapered Split Rings are factory matched sets. Do not mix!. 3.1 Locate the shifter fork rod, mark fork rod flush at transmission case and pull out 1/4″. Figure 1 3.2 Cut the shaft at the mark and push it back in. The shaft end MUST NOT stick out of the transmission case. If the shaft is in deeper, fill the hole with silicone to prevent the shaft from moving in and out. NOTE: Shifter fork is made of non-tempered metal and may be cut with a hacksaw or Dremel® cutting tool. 3.3 Important: Remove stock spacers from main and counter shafts. Spray with silicon remover (Brake-Clean) then, using supplied cleaning pad, clean shafts, new counter and main shaft gears and tapered lock rings (inside and outside) Figure 1 3.4 With motorcycle in neutral, pull both the shafts out and simultaneously push the OEM outermost gears in until seated completely to expose the shoulders of both shafts. The countershaft shoulder should be flush with the gear face. For the main shaft the gear would “hang over” the shoulder a small bit. Figure 2 3.5 Apply supplied Champion Super-Lock retaining compound to the inside and outside surfaces of the large gear tapered split ring, to the inside of the new countershaft gear (large gear) and to the transmission countershaft (the forward most shaft). 3.6 Install new countershaft gear to the transmission countershaft. Insert tapered split ring (tapered end first) into the countershaft gear. Install ring seat tool and spring to counter shaft and new countershaft gear. Torque ring seat tool to 40 ft-lb’s. Figures 3 and 4

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