AJS NAC12 Specifications

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Engine type ………………….. 4 stroke, twin cylinder, liquid cooled Cylinder capacity …………… 124cc Bore x stroke ………………… 44mm x 40mm (x2) Starting method ……………. Electric Transmission ………………… 5 speed gearbox, Chain drive. Clutch ………………………….. Wet, Multi-plate Ignition ……………………….. Coil CDI Battery ………………………… 12v Tyres F <> R ………………… Tubeless 90/90 – 18 <> 130/90 – 15 Suspension F / R …………… Tele’ forks / twin rear shocks Brakes F / R …………………. Twin disc / disc Fuel tank capacity …………. 18 litres Seat height …………………… 77cm (30.5″) Wheel base …………………… 151cm Max power net (approx) …. 8.5kw @ 10’500 rev/min Dry weight …………………… 153kg Max load ………………………. 150kg Noise Level (drive by) …….. 77db(A)

1945-1957 AJS Pitmans Installaiton Manual

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AN A.J.S. O.H.V. single is easy to handle, and even the absolute novice quickly acquires confidence in the saddle. Beware, however, that you do not indulge in big throttle openings until you have had ample road experience. Also do not forget to digest the Highway Code. FIG. 1. A FLEXIBLE AND FAST TOURER WITH CLEAN LINES AND MECHANICAL QUIETNESS – THE 1957 MODEL 18S The 500 c.c. A.J.S. model shown is similar to the 350 c.c. model 16MS. Both models have snappy push rod O.H.V. engines with light-alloy cylinder heads, “Monobloc” carburettors, hairpin valve-springs, and automatic-ignition control. Their specification includes: “Teledraulic” front forks, Girling rear-suspension units, a quickly detachable rear wheel, die-cast light-alloy hubs, a deep secondary-chain guard, a new A.M.C. four- speed gearbox, Lucas headlamp, twin pilot-lights, and other attractive features. * The A.J.S. engine and frame numbers required on Form R.F. 1/2 will be found on the near-side of the crankcase and the off-side of the saddle lug, or on the off-side of the front down-tube (later models). THE BOOK OF THE A.J.S. 1 Essential Preliminaries. Before you can legally ride on the road – (1) Insure against all third-party risks and obtain the vital “certificate of insurance.” With a new machine you cannot get this until the machine is licensed, and an insurance “cover note” must be obtained. If you have a valuable machine, you are advised to take out full comprehensive insurance. (2) Obtain the registration licence and registration book (Form R.F.I/2)* or renew the licence (Form R.F. I/A). (3) Obtain a three-monthly “provisional” or an annual driving licence (Form D.L.I).* (4) Fit a reliable speedometer if one is not fitted (not essential if machine registered prior to 1st Oct., 1937). (5) If you carry a pillion-passenger, see that he or she sits astride a proper pillion seat securely fixed to the machine (all “springers” have dualseats), and that the passenger holds a current annual or substantive driving licence for Group G if you are a “learner.” (6) If you are ineligible for an annual or substantive driving licence, attach “L” plates to the front and back of the machine. (7) If not already provided, fit a red reflector (1½ in. minimum diameter) vertically at the rear of the motor-cycle and, on a sidecar outfit, an additional red reflector and rear lamp at the rear of the sidecar and at the same height as those on the motor-cycle. (8) Use an ignition-suppression type sparking plug or terminal cover if the machine was registered for the first time after 1. st July, 1953. All the official forms referred to above may be obtained from any money-order post office. See also footnote **, with reference to Forms R.F, 1/A or R.F. 112. You are not eligible for a substantive driving licence for Group G unless you are 16 and have complied with one of these conditions- (a) You have held a licence (other than a provisional or Visitor’s licence authorizing the driving of vehicles of the class or description applied for within a period of ten years ending on the date of coming into force of the licence applied for. (b) You have passed the prescribed driving test (this includes a test passed while serving in H.M. Forces) during the said period of ten years

1933 AJS 33- 7 OHC Trophy Owners Manual

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the cylinder head can then be lifted up and off. There is no Spigot or washer on the Cylinder Barrel, hut the Head must he lifted high enough to clear the two Cylinder Head studs. If the Cylinder Barrel is removed do not prise this from (he Crank-case but place the palms of the hands round the finning and rock the Cylinder from side to side and when it starts to leave the crank-case lift upwards. Do not let the connecting rod fall heavily against the mouth of the Crank-case or the crank-case face will be damaged. When removing the Piston, only withdraw one Gudgeon Pin Circlip with the special pliers provided and then either push the Gudgeon Pin out from the opposite side or insert a screw-driver inside the Gudgeon Pin and bear the screw-driver to one side and turn the Pin slowly out of the Piston Bosses. The Gudgeon Pin is a sliding fit in the Piston and Small End. When the Piston is removed either remember the correct original position indicated by the remaining Circlip, or take a sharp instrument and make a mark on the inside of the piston to indicate front and back ; be sure to replace the Piston in its original position, For the removal of the Valves we list a special tool costing 5s. 9d. Part No. XB3340; and for Valve Grinding a Small Tool costing 1s. 6d. Part No. XB.3360. The accompanying illustration shows the method of operation of both the valve extractor and the valve grinding tool; although the Cylinder Head shown does not of course belong to a Camshaft Model the operation is similar. For portability the valve extractor is made to fold. Be careful to see that the portion of the toot which depresses the valve spring collar is central before compressing the spring, otherwise it is almost impossible to remove the split cones. An important factor to watch when replacing the valve springs is that the collars are replaced underneath the valve springs. Whilst the cylinder head is dismantled remove the oil feed nipples to the valve guides to ascertain that these are clear; the inlet nipple, it will be noticed, is purposely restricted with a disc, so be careful to see that these nipples are replaced correctly.

1928 AJS Installation Instruction Manual

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Oil delivered at “6″ goes to the big end, while that delivered at “5″ goes up to the cam box. The bottom end of the plunger also has a slot, which registers alternately with inlet ” 7 ” and outlet ” 8,” and is responsible for returning the oil from the sump to the tank. It is of greater capacity than the supply pump. To dismantle the pump, proceed as follows :— 1. Remove all pipes from the pump. 2. Remove pump from engine. 3. Remove the two nuts “A” and the pin” 3 ” from the pump. 4. Gently push the plunger out of the pump body in the direction of the arrow “C” on the drawing. To re-assemble, the reverse sequence of these operations is, of course, followed. Should it be required to remove the worm ” 2,” the brass bush ” D ” which screws into the body with a R.H. thread, must be removed first. It is of the utmost importance that the nut “A” always makes an air-tight joint with the body ; and should there be no oil returning to the tank at any time, check this joint immediately. Occasionally go over all the oil pipe unions and nuts to see that everything is tight. Should one of the unions come loose, especially on the inlet side of the pump, of course, the whole system of lubrication fails. As will be seen from the illustration, the oil pump itself is very simple. There are only two moving parts, and it is most unlikely that anything in this pump will get out of order. Should the oil not be circulating and running back to the tank, be quite sure that there is plenty of oil in the tank and that the filters are clean, before dismantling the pump. Should it be necessary to take the oil pump from the engine, make certain that the short piece of square tube which drives the pump spindle from the engine is replaced. The pump delivers oil to the big end via holes drilled down the driving side of the crank­ case, then through holes in the main shaft, up web of flywheel, and through the crank pin into the big end. Oil is also taken to the cam box. A portion of the cam box projects inside the chaincase—the end of this projection is open ; the oil from the cam box falls on to the vertical chain—from there it falls through holes in the crankcase into the sump, and is returned to the oil tank. The piston and little end of connecting rod are lubricated in the ordinary way by splash from the big end, but we have found it necessary for continued high speeds on track or in road race, above (say) 60 m.p.h. average, to take an extra supply of oil direct to the cylinder walls

AJS Big-end replacement instructions

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Above: Once the first wheel is off, the pin can be removed in the vice using a drift and spacer. Right: Out with the old; in with the new. Big-end track renewal is a two- in-one operation. Left: No wonder the original bearing was making let-me-out noises! New big end assemblies come dipped in a protective plastic coating. Below: A smear of grease stops the new rollers squirting all over the place. Cotton tape holds them tight to the pin, until the big end is in position. Below. Ensure that the new pin is absolutely square before you attempt to press it in. Mating faces must be operating theatre clean. one out of the con-rod as you fit it. A short piece of square-ended pipe makes a spacer, but take great care that the track goes in square. Soft jaws in the vice prevent damage. The new bearing will usually be grease packed, which helps to stick uncaged rollers onto the inner track. Wrap a length of tape around, pulling it out as you drop the big end eye over. Get the rod the right way round! Check the fit, because the con-rod can occasionally squeeze a new outer race so that it nips the rollers. Lapping it in is the cure, but that’s not within the scope of this article. (Universal journalists’ copout). Press up the second flywheel, using a set square to get the alignment about right, and nip up the nut. The scrap box supplied materials for my truing jig. Two pairs of small roller bearings support the mainshafts, and one support post is adjustable to allow for different crank widths and shaft diameters. For ease and accuracy, a dial gauge wins every time, and if you compare it to the cost of employing an expert, you’ll have no difficulty in justifying the expense. Wedge the con-rod between

1961 MODEL G2CS ELECTRICAL CONVERSION FOR COMPETITION

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The entire electric system except the battery, ignition switch, ignition wiring and coil can be removed for off-the-highway competition. 1. Remove the saddle and gasoline tank. 2. Pull the lighting harness wires from the connectors, leaving the connectors in place, unless removal is specified. Follow the code for easiest disconnection. a. Translucent. b. Purple. c. Double Brown from four way connector and horn connector. d. Black from connector at tail lamp. e. Orange. f. Yellow – keep the connector on this wire. g. Light Green. 3. Connect the Yellow wire from the ignition harness into the double connector with the Light Green wires. 4. Pull the Brown wire at the four wire connector and at the tail lamp. Pull out and remove the stoplight harness and switch. 5. Remove the horn. 6. Disconnect the speedometer cable at the drive gearbox. NOTE: The gearbox cable socket should be taped to keep out dirt or the gearbox may be removed. Be sure to reinstall all wheel supporting and spacing parts. 7. Remove the left grip, loosen the set screw, slide the dip switch from the handlebar and replace the grip. 8. Remove the headlamp with the wiring harnesses and speedometer cable. 9. Remove the tail lamp and bracket. Service Release #6-82 (con’t) March 27, 1961 The wiring left on the motorcycle is shown on page 45 of the 1961 G2 Instruction Book. With the connections as shown, the ignition is normally from the battery but the emergency start circuit is available in case the battery becomes discharged

AJS CYLINDER AND PISTON DIMENSIONS

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CYLINDER AND PISTON DIMENSIONS MODEL G2 & G2CS G9 G12CS/CSR G80CS G80TCS CYLINDER BORE 2.750″ 2.598″ 2.8355″ 3.3855″ 3.500″ BOTTOM OF PISTON SKIRT 2.746″ 2.595″ 2.8305″ 3.3805″ 3.492″ CLEARANCE .004″ .003″ .005″ .005″ .008″

1951 AJS MAINTENANCE MANUAL AND INSTRUCTION BOOK

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Throttle twist grip. On right handlebar. Twist inwards to open. When fully closed engine should just idle when hot. Air lever. Small lever on right handlebar. Pull inwards to increase air supply to carburetter. Once set, when engine has warmed up, requires no alteration for different road speeds. Should be fully closed when starting engine from cold. Ignition lever. Small lever on left handlebar. Advances and retards ignition point. Pull inwards to advance on touring models (retard on competition models). Retard two-fifths of total movement for starting. Valve lifter lever. Small lever close to clutch lever. Lifts exhaust valve from seat, releasing compression in combustion chamber, enabling engine to be easily rotated for starting. Also used for stopping engine if throttle stop is set as advised above. Clutch lever. Large lever on left handlebar. Grip to release clutch so that drive to rear wheel is disconnected. Used when moving away from a standstill and when changing gear. Front brake lever. Large lever on right handlebar. Grip to operate front wheel brake and, for normal braking, use in conjunction with rear brake application. Rear brake lever. Pedal close to left side foot rest. Depress with left foot to apply rear brake. Apply gently and use increasing pressure as the road speed decreases. Gear change lever. Pedal in horizontal position close to right foot rest. Con­ trols selection of the four speeds, or ratios, between engine and rear wheel revolutions, with a ” free,” or neutral, position. See illustration 3. Kick-starter lever. Vertical pedal on right hand side of gear box. Operated to start the engine. Lighting switch. In top of head lamp. Controls lamps by a rotating lever which has three positions : (1) “OFF” Lamps not on. (2) ” L ” Pilot bulb in head lamp and rear lamp and speedometer lamp on. (3) ” H ” Head and rear lamp and speedometer lamp on. Ammeter. In top of head lamp. Indicates flow of electric current, in, or out, of battery. (” Charge ” or ” Discharge.”) Horn switch. Press switch on right handlebar. Depress button to sound horn. Gear box filler cap. Located on top edge of kick-starter case cover. Allows insertion of lubricant and access to clutch inner wire. Footrest for rider. One located each side of machine. Petrol tank filler cap. Located in top of fuel tank. To release, slightly depress, turn fully to the left, and then lift away. There are two locking positions. The middle position, between the fully tightened down and ” lift away ” positions, is in the nature of a ” safety ” device to prevent loss that might be occasioned by unauthorised meddling. Oil tank filler cap. Located on top edge of oil tank. The construction and operation is exactly as the petrol tank filler cap. Dipping switch. Trigger switch on left handlebar. Used to select normal or ” dipped ” beam of head lamp when main lighting switch lever is in the ” H ” position. (The head lamp bulb has two filaments.

AJS WHEEL BEARING ADJUSTMENT

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Front Wheel (a) With the machine on the centre stand, disconnect the brake cable and remove the wheel. (b) Slacken the circular lock-nut (10). (c) Turn the adjusting sleeve (9) clockwise until all the slackness is just taken up. (d) Turn the adjusting sleeve (9) anticlockwise one-half a turn. It will now be necessary to drive the bearing back against the sleeve and this is done by:— (e) placing the wheel under a press and pressing the end of the spindle (on the brake-side) downwards. or: (f) jarring the end of the spindle on the brake-side with a weighty lead hammer. Whichever method is used the greatest of care must be exercised otherwise the bearing may be damaged, (g) Tighten the circular lock-nut (10). Hold the sleeve in position while this is being done otherwise the sleeve may move and the adjustment will be in- correct. (h) Refit the wheel and check for end-float. Front Wheel Bearing Assembly T www.ajs-matchles s.info ISSUED BY A·J·S MOTOR CYCLES, LONDON, S.E.18. Rear Wheel Bearing Assembly for Quickly Detachable Wheels Rear Wheel (a) Disconnect the speedometer driving cable. (b) Remove the lock-nut (16) which secures the speedometer-drive gear­ box in position. (c) Remove the wheel. (d) Grasp the speedometer-drive gearbox (15) with the fingers and firmly pull it away from the hub. (e) Proceed as described in the instructions for the front wheel (b) to (d). Note that in the illustrations for the rear wheel the circular lock-nut is (13) and the adjusting sleeve is (14), It will now be necessary to drive the bearing back against the sleeve and this is done in the following manner: Quickly Detachable Wheels (f) place the wheel under a press, brake- side uppermost, and apply pressure to the oil-seal distance piece (6), or; (g) jarr the end of the oil-seal distance piece (6) with a weighty lead hammer. Whichever method is used the greatest of care must be exercised otherwise the bearing may be damaged. Wheels for Rigid-Frame Models (h) Remove the brake-side spindle nut (19), washer (18), fork-end spacer (17), outer spacer (20), and the brake plate (21). (i) Place the wheel, brake-side uppermost. under a press and apply pressure to the oil-seal distance piece (6). or; (j) jarr the end of the oil-seal distance piece (6) with a weighty lead hammer. Whichever method is used the greatest of care must be exercised otherwise the bearing may be damaged. All Rear Wheels (k) Refit the speedometer-drive gearbox. It is pushed on. The two dogs must engage with the slots in the end-face of the adjusting sleeve. (l) Refit the lock nut (16). (m) Refit the wheel into the frame and check for end-float. (n) Tighten the lock-nut (16) and refit the speedometer driving cable

AJS DISMANTLING AND REBUILDING FULL-WIDTH FRONT WHEEL HUBS INSTALLATION

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Removal of the Brake-side Bearing Cup The bearing cup (5) is located endwise by a circlip (1), and between the cup and circlip arc an oil-seal retaining washer (4), oil seal (3), and oil-seal cup washer (2) Before these parts can be removed from the hub the bearing cup must be moved inwards for a very short distance (3/16-inch) so that the circlip can be withdrawn. (n) Gently heat the hub shell. (i) Place a soft metal rod (e.g. brass) against the oil-seal cup washer (2) and apply pressure with a hand press or hammer blows. It is only necessary to move the bearing cup (5) inwards about 1/16-inch. (j) Extract the circlip by inserting a narrow pen-knife blade under one end of the circlip; lift it upwards and outwards and prise the clip out of its groove. (k) Remove the oil-seal cup washer (2), oil seal (3) and oil-seal retaining washer (4). They can be hooked out with the shank of a small and narrow screw­ driver, (l) The bearing cup can now be ejected by placing a suitable rod of soft metal (e.g. brass) in the hub tunnel from the right-hand side and pressing it — with a press or hammer blows — against the bearing cup until the cup is forced out of the bearing. This must be done with care so that the cup remains square with the housing. Reassembly To facilitate replacement of the bearing cups gently heat the hub shell. Just too hot to hold is about the right temperature. (a) Place the brake-side bearing cup squarely in the hub shell — the open end faces inwards — and press it into the hub tunnel A short length of brass rod, slightly less than the outside dia­ meter of the cup, should be interposed between the cup and ram of the press, or hammer head. Press the cup in until the outer face is approximately half-an-inch below the mouth of the hub tunnel. This will allow sufficient room to allow [he circlip to be inserted into its groove. (b) Refit in the following order: oil-seal retaining washer (4), oil seal (3), oil-seal cup washer (2). (c) The circlip can now be replaced. In the interest of reliability use a new circlip, for it is possible that the existing circlip was strained when it was re­ moved. (d) Insert into the hub tunnel from the right-hand side a brass rod of suitable length, and press the bearing cup firmly against the circlip. (e) Before inserting the spindle complete with the roller races, pack them with clean and fresh grease of a suitable grade (Mobilgrease No. 4. Castrolease heavy, Energrease C3, Esso Pressure Gun Grease. Shelf Retinax Grease CD or A). (0 Insert the spindle into the hub. (g) Place the right-hand side bearing cup in the hub tunnel; the open end faces inwards, It may be necessary to re-heat the hub to allow the cup to go into position without difficulty. (h) Press the cup into position, but do not force it fully home, leave some end play on the spindle. (i) Refit in the following order: oil-seal retaining washer (6), oil-seal (7) and oil-seal cup washer (8). (j) Screw into the hub the adjusting sleeve (9) until it comes into contact with the bearing cup (5)